Fixing poor leakdown, Cyl 1 leaks at 50%, rest are cool. Options

[MrKona]

What is the best way to split the case?

this may help split the case but i'm not answering the question about the best way. there is a tool that has 2 arced sides and a bolt/nut that pushes the 2 arcs apart. this tool can fit into the oil pump hole and help persuade the 2 case halves to separate. of course, in the hands of a hack like me, one could cause all sorts of problems using the tool; imagine what you would do to the case if you were using the tool to try to split the cases and had missed removing one of the bolts that holds the case together..... the best way? a rubber mallet with gentle strokes on parts of the case that won't break off or get damaged.

Here's the tool

Top of the page.

[Jake Raby]

What is the best way to split the case? I have all the bolt undone but two.

You don't need a tool.. You need my video. I show the easy way to do it with things you already have in the garage...

[type11969]

There are a couple of bosses on one side of the case that are not on the other, you can tap them with a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to split it very easily. If its not coming apart, you probably missed something. One is on the top of the case close to the bell housing. Another is on the pulley end of the case close to the breather tower. Don't use any machined surfaces to split the case and you will be fine.

-Chris

[Allan]

a rubber mallet with gentle strokes on parts of the case that won't break off or get damaged.

That's how I did mine.

[scotty b]

Before you try to split the case make certain you have gotten the 13mm bolt in between ( and below )the cylinders !! I have a case here that is broken internally because the P.O. split the case with that bolt still tightend down (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Amazingly enough there is no other VISIBLE damage to the case or mating surface (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Some people shouldn't even try.

[VaccaRabite]

ke certain you have gotten the 13mm bolt in between ( and below )the cylinders !! I have a case here that is broken internally because the P.O. split the case with that bolt still tightend down (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Amazingly enough there is no other VISIBLE damage to the case or mating surface (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Some people shouldn't even try.

It took me an hour of cursing to find that very bolt this evening. I was _SO SURE_ I had taken out all the bolts, and the little bastard still would not budge. It was hiding in the shadows, and I only found it after tracing the area with my fingers to see if anything could possibly be there.

But I managed not to break the case. :-)

Proof!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2206/2179826276_3e327cca94.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2268/2179825958_bb185a8ec5.jpg)

This is the half that needs to go get decked. I am going to leave the head stud in for the machineist to worry about, and just assume that I am going to have to buy a new stud.
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2393/2179036349_196eccf369.jpg)

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

Oh, and when I was removing the top half from the bottom, the two 1/4 inch studs the align the crank bearings to the case dropped out and were lost I looked for them for about 20 minutes, but I think they were consumed by bears.

Can I get them readily, or are they specific to my engine?

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

One final question before going to bed.

Now that the case is split, is there anything special that I should do while I am in there? What is required to full flow the oil system? I have to say, I am amazed at the relative simplicity of this motor. I expected more.

Zach

[SGB]

uh-oh!

"while I'm in there"

[DNHunt]

Well lets see.

First, please tell me you stored and label the lifters so they can go in the same bores.

Look at it really close. I agree it looks simple but, when it goes back together, you will be thankful if you have a good image of what it looks like. Buy Jake's video

Then, I would order the appropriate gasket kit, Main and front seals (they are not in the gasket kit) , remove and label the rods. Take the crank, and rods to the machinist to get checked and depending on what he says you will have a direction. Best case, you can just get new bearings. Dowel pins are available, I think Jake has them from the store. Buy his video if you don't have it cause it will answer some questions you will have. Get sealants together.

With the measurements from the machinist you can order new bearings.

Buy plenty of brake or carb cleaner and solvent cause when the case comes back you get to clean. Even it was tanked and all don't trust it . I like to use rifle cleaning stuff on the oil passages. Even with fanatical cleaning there will be more. I cleaned my case for hours and when I changed the oil down at Jakes I found a piece of aluminum in the sump. It was from tapping the galley plugs. I was lucky cause I only got a raised eyebrow. Incidentally, they check how clean stuff is with white lint free tissue kind of like large thick lens paper and carb cleaner. If there is any grey on the tissue you clean some more. I spent 2 hours cleaning cylinders that were freshly conditioned. Point is it can't be too clean. This just tedious and time consuming.

Some one will disagree with me on new bearings, checking the rods and crank and say run it as is. You have to decide that, I can only tell you what i would do.

Look at the end play shims. If they are worn they will have a slight bulge on 1 side and a concavity on the other. What was the end play anyway. If you change bearings you will have to reset it. You should check it regardless. If it was out of spec or very close that might push you more toward new bearings.

The best thing is you can clean and inspect everything.

Dave

[VaccaRabite]

Hey Dave,

I know what lifters go to what cylinder. But not which ones go to In or Ex. But, i am going to rework the rod geo anyhow, as I think they were cut a bit too long when the engine was built. There is very little (none on Cly 3) room to adjust gap the way things are set up now.

I have an email to Jake making sure that i order the right stuff off his site, but the DVD will be ordered by the end of the day (speak of the devil, got his response while writing this.)

Zach

[type47]

the two 1/4 inch studs the align the crank bearings to the case

dowel pins. available from busdepot (PA) and from Jake....

[slowtwitch]

I hope Jake tells us more about what and WHY is going on with these 2.0 blocks. He is the only one I know that actually has the answers.
Me... I'm just doing a bit of guess work and trying to surmise the facts. He knows the facts.


Clayton

First of all, I want to say hi 914world, This is my first post here. I don't own a 914, but, I am building a couple of type 4 engines (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Anyway, I'm sure Jake has a definite answer to the collapsed register problem. I'm just a rank beginner at this type 4 stuff, but the one problem that I see, is the difference in the amount of material in the register areas, between the 2.0 GE cases and 1.7 EA/W cases.

Here a shot of a GE 2.0 case...
(IMG:http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f109/slowtwitch/GBcase.jpg)

and here's a shot of a 1.7 EA case...
(IMG:http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f109/slowtwitch/EAcase.jpg)

Seems like VW wanted to save a couple of bucks in material cost (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

pete

[VaccaRabite]

GE is a bus case. GA is the 2.0 914 case.

I only know as the case my engine is built on is a GE bus case. There are a few things that you need to do in order to use a GE case in a 914. Most important is a block off plate for one of the oil galleys.

Zach

[degreeoff]

Zach, Look man come down and get my case....its sitting next to my shop over @ the edge of a leaf pile...take it its yours FREE....take it with you to the machinist...its a true 2.0 914 case that has already been line bored....you SHOULD IMHO buy the matching crank(12lb)/flywheell/rods......$100 with new bearings @ 2000 miles ago......Hell I will even throw in the SCAT C-25 cam and lifters.....IO am out for the weekend but feel free to call if you want my addy for the case!!

Josh

[type11969]

Bus cases lead hard lives. If you are going to spend money on casework I would consider spending it on a 914 2.0 or even better, 1.7L case. I have a t4 case in my basement that is yours if you want it (couldn't sell it at Hershey for $20). Not sure what it is but I can check. All the head studs are out too! No machining has been done on it, only catch is an oil cooler stud is broken off flush but it didn't break when trying to spin it out so it hopefully won't be tough to get out.

Didn't see Josh's post, seems like a good route too. Take mine though, I need to get rid of some of this crap!

Let me know.

Chris

[degreeoff]

Yeah my next step is to throw dirt in it and make it a planter.....LMAO! BTW Zach its all from the same engine AKA machined together by my guy in Falls Chaurch VA.

[type11969]

Thats a good deal, I'm tempted to buy it but then I would have even more shit.

The first step is admitting you have a problem, right?

[VaccaRabite]

Hey Josh,

I already have a RAT cam and gear, and LN ceramic lifters. Would there be an advantage to the ones that you have?

Zach

[type11969]

ceramics . . . can't beat em

eventually I'll run that set I have sitting on my shelf!