Fixing poor leakdown, Cyl 1 leaks at 50%, rest are cool. Options

[orange914]

I am impatient. I want to get back to work on my engine.

I guess I'll go out and work on my wiring instead.

Zach

kuddos to ya'. your perserverance is good for us all. your doing it right as frustrating as it may be. i'm in the middle of a 2056 cylinder cluster thanks to the football players at u.s.p.s.... you insure the cylinders, then after estemates and 3 mo.'s sending them to be whatevered, they "might" even prorate the insured value.

good things come to those that wait, i guess mine will be REAL good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

have you figured if the registers a flat? what i'm wondering is did you determine no leakage at rings/valves and ONLY at head to cyl?

mike

[VaccaRabite]

The leak is at the head, no question.

Okay, a question.

I have all the head studs out of the 1&2 bank except for 1, which will not budge, and I am afraid of snapping it. I have been soaking it for 2 days in Liquid Wrench, tapping with a hammer, and heating the case where the stud is with a MAPP torch and I still can't get it to move. I have tried vice grips and double nutting the top.

What else can I try. I really don't want to break this puppy.

Zach

[DNHunt]

Patience Grasshoppa

Keep soaking and heating and tapping. Time will loosen it for you. Also it never hurts to try a clockwise rotation.

Dave

[type11969]

Get a good penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil, they work much better than Liquid Wrench. Also try getting some parrafin, heat the boss, touch the parrafin to the stud and let it wick into the case (tilt the case up to use gravity to help if you can). Get a couple of vice grips, like 3 or 4, on the stud as close to the base as possible (don't try double nutting, you will snap the stud due to the twist). Use all of them at once to try to spin it out.

I still broke a stud trying all of this, but this is the advice I got from people as the best way to try to get it free. I know people have said that it is a bitch to get the studs out if they snapped but a machinist buddy of mine got it out cleanly no problem.

You may also want to try some liquid nitrogen on the stud to try to get the temp differential that much higher, only problem is ALs high thermal conductivity. Good luck!

[Twystd1]

I tried the liquid oxygen trick ONCE.

The stud snapped immediately with very little pressure. I guess that particular kind of steel doesn't like getting sub zero +. Thankfully we had an EDM machine across the street.... Insta fix.

C

[type11969]

Thats good to know!

[Dr Evil]

Why are you removing the head studs?

[type11969]

decking the case I would imagine

[VaccaRabite]

Mainly I was removing the head studs so I could get some accurate measurements of the case registers without the studs getting in the way.

[Dr Evil]

I could be wrong, but I didnt think that was necessary (stud removal). More chance for damage from the evolution. What gave you this idea?

[type11969]

If you've gone to the trouble of pulling the studs then I'd get the case decked (most time consuming part = completed!). Or is your shortblock already assembled?

Not sure what measurements you want to take but to check for a dropped register you should just have to drop a straight edge across the two registers at the register centerlines and check for a gap. I think the registers are prone to collapsing at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions or the area in between the two.

[Brando]

When heating, apply flame to the stud not the case. Get the steel glowing and then SLOWLY try to back it out.

[Dr Evil]

Why would you want to expand the stud and not the case? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Twystd1]

Just keep tapping the stud. And tweaking it every day. It will start to move eventually. Heat is your friend. Just keep it going.

Have ya tried 4 vise grips and 2 people..??????

If all else fails. Just bear down hard with a rattle gun and double nut or a stud extractor.
You WILL bend the stud. Get another stud form me or Jake or whoever.

Thats the worst case scenario. No big deal.

Note: If your case register is collapsing. What makes you think it won't continue to collapse after the decking...??????

I'll bet you the following will happen.
If you have the block line honed. You wil also find out that the block is distorted from the main bearing collapsing. Thus the deformation of the block.

Thats has been my experience on the last 2 GA block I threw away.

I hope Jake tells us more about what and WHY is going on with these 2.0 blocks. He is the only one I know that actually has the answers.
Me... I'm just doing a bit of guess work and trying to surmise the facts. He knows the facts.

If I didn't have the luxury and use of of a couple of high end machine shops and Jakes descriptions of our block issues. I would be seriously screwed. ONLY because of his knowledge. Do I have a clue to any of this.
Again... The word grateful come to mind. Else my shit would blow up and I wouldn't have a clue as to the why's of it.

I have an EA block sitting around here somewhere if shit hits the fan on yours.

Or I think you can buy a decked block from Jake if needed. (At least you used to be able to)

So there is more food for thought.

Clayton

[VaccaRabite]

I am spraying the stud with PB Blaster and tapping the stud every morning when I walk into the garage to drive to work, and every evening when I get home. I'll try to turn it again either Friday or Saturday.

Zach

[Spoke]

Any way to get an impact wrench on it? It would seem that thousands of little poundings would be better than one big torque with a wrench or vice grip.

[orange914]

I am spraying the stud with PB Blaster and tapping the stud every morning when I walk into the garage to drive to work, and every evening when I get home. I'll try to turn it again either Friday or Saturday.

Zach

keep a hammer by them and give them a couple hits to help "shock" the penatrant in

[type11969]

Any way to get an impact wrench on it? It would seem that thousands of little poundings would be better than one big torque with a wrench or vice grip.

The stud twists too much, the torque doesn't get transfered to the threads in the base if you double nut it at the top. Thats why you have to grab it as close to the base as you can with vice grips.

-Chris

[VaccaRabite]

What is the best way to split the case? I have all the bolt undone but two.

However, the case is glues together with RVT I think, and I'd like to know the best way to split it without marring the mating surfaces.

If I can't get that last head stud out by this weekend, I am going to send the case half to the machinist and let him worry about it.

Zach

[type47]

What is the best way to split the case?

this may help split the case but i'm not answering the question about the best way. there is a tool that has 2 arced sides and a bolt/nut that pushes the 2 arcs apart. this tool can fit into the oil pump hole and help persuade the 2 case halves to separate. of course, in the hands of a hack like me, one could cause all sorts of problems using the tool; imagine what you would do to the case if you were using the tool to try to split the cases and had missed removing one of the bolts that holds the case together..... the best way? a rubber mallet with gentle strokes on parts of the case that won't break off or get damaged.