Richard's progress thread Options

[BIGKAT_83]

Great write up on the rotisserie build.....It sure sould be in the classic threads here.



Bob

[Eric_Ciampa]

just a thought... you might want to include some pictures of a 914 on the rotisserie. Couldn't hurt

[roadster fan]

Richard,

Thanks for doing the write up on the rotisserie construction details. I was wondering if you are able to roll the rotisserie with your car on it out of your garage door. The clearance looks tight, can you measure the height of the opening. If it clears by a mile I guess it wont matter much because I think garage doors are pretty standard in size. I would hate to build it and not be able to get the car out of the garage if need be with it on the rotisserie.

Again, great write up at the 914 wiki. Thanks.

Jim

[Richard Casto]

Richard,

Thanks for doing the write up on the rotisserie construction details. I was wondering if you are able to roll the rotisserie with your car on it out of your garage door. The clearance looks tight, can you measure the height of the opening. If it clears by a mile I guess it wont matter much because I think garage doors are pretty standard in size. I would hate to build it and not be able to get the car out of the garage if need be with it on the rotisserie.

Again, great write up at the 914 wiki. Thanks.

Jim

Jim

The casters I picked lift the bottom of the stands 4" off the floor (I mention this because caster choice will impact ultimate height). With the car in an upright position (mine is locked in that position now), and including casters in the measurement, it is 78 1/2" from floor to top of windsheild frame (high point). My Garage door opening is about 82" in height. This gives me a few inches of clearance to roll the car outside if I want. I have actually not rolled it out however.

I think that most garage doors are either 6'6" or 7' in height. A 6'6" might be tight. If someone had a shorter door and needed to roll it outside, they could built probably use slightly shorter stands. I wanted mine to have some clearance with GT flairs on. So if you wanted less clearance, you might be able to drop the stand an inch, and if you wanted to build this for narrow body only, you could drop another inch or two.

If my car wasn't locked into position right now, I would rotate it and measure the exact amount of clearance I have now so I determine exactly how much shorter the stands could be.

Richard

[roadster fan]

Richard,

That is exactly the info I needed. I will measure the garage door in the a.m. and put together the material list.

Again, thanks for taking the time to document and share the details on your rotisserie build. Good luck with your project, I will be watching with anticipation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Jim

[Richard Casto]

Sorry for the lack of an update. Between various home projects (replace water heater, fix dry-rot on front of house), family birthdays and the holidays, the time I usually have to work on the car has been sucked away recently. But I have done some work.

As always my site has more in the way of photos and text. My signature line should always have an up-to-date link. Here are a few quick links...

Main page...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm

Passenger Longitudinal repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_04.htm

Hell Hole repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_06.htm

Enough of that. On with the update!

[Richard Casto]

I am still working on the passenger side longitudinal and hell hold area. I am working on removing the bottom (rusted) section of the inner longitudinal so that I can fabricate and weld in a replacement. Doing anything in this area is like peeling an onion.





Here I have removed the clamps that hold in the flexiable heater hose as well as removed the two heater pipes. The one going into the passenger compartment was a total pain in the ass to remove. These have small stick weld beads where they enter/exit the car as well as brazed connections (to small brackets) inside the longitudinal. I am going to fabricate replacement brackets, so the existing ones have been chopped up badly in an effort to remove the pipes.







I then needed to determine where to cut horizontally. But I wanted to make sure I knew where the rust really ended, so I media blasted the general area. With that done I was able to see where the bad stuff really was and what needed to be cut out and what I will keep.

[Richard Casto]

I drilled out the spot welds on the bottom. These are where the floor attaches to the longitudinal.



I love my Blair Rotabroach spot weld bit. I have learned that if you don't use cutting oil they die a quick death. But if you keep them cool and oiled, they work pretty well. A quick Haiku to show my love. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

My Blair Rotabroach
Cutting oil is your friend
You last a long time





Bottom section cut out and I also grinded off the last bits of the heater pipe bracket. Before I cut I put in some vertical registration marks to help align the replacement once fabricated.

[Richard Casto]

Thats pretty much it for tonight. Over the next few weeks I am going to finish cleaning up that section (grinding off any remaining flanges, etc.) so that the replacement will fit nicely. I also will probably finish up removing any rusted areas from the hell hole area. Once that is done I will start to fabricate the replacements, test fit and then weld in!

[michelko]

Hi Richard,
nice project. i love that kind of stuff. Keep the pic´s coming. You are on the right way, keep that cars alive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)

[Richard Casto]

Hi Richard,
nice project. i love that kind of stuff. Keep the pic´s coming. You are on the right way, keep that cars alive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)

Michelko,

Your project is one of my inspirations. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I am less afraid of "digging into hell" knowning that others have done it and have made it work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I think I am just now getting into the fun part.

Richard

[John]

It looks like you are making good progress with your project.


I have a few questions:

What are you using to media blast? What protective gear do you need? How much of a mess does it make? How much of the media are you able to recover? I am assuming that you are doing this in an open space in your garage.

[Richard Casto]

It looks like you are making good progress with your project.


I have a few questions:

What are you using to media blast? What protective gear do you need? How much of a mess does it make? How much of the media are you able to recover? I am assuming that you are doing this in an open space in your garage.

Blaster: 40lb pressure pot from HF. I generally like it so far. This is my first pressure pot blaster. I think to make it work right, you have to screen/filter your media, don’t go crazy with the pressure (generally been using 30-60 psi), get a good ratio of air vs. media and then work on your technique. This is what I am using…

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=34202

Media: Coal slag 30/60 grit in the areas with rust. I am probably going to use paint stripper as much as I can on the panels and then media blast what that doesn’t remove. I may try some aluminum oxide on the panels as well, but so far I like the coal slag (Black Diamond and Black Beauty are common brand names of Coal slag).

Gear: The protective mask/hood that came with the blaster, leather gloves and respirator. You will require a good shower when you are done as you will have dust and grit in everything.

Mess: I built a tent (PVC pipe and 6 mil plastic) in the garage to keep the mess down. When not blasting, I roll the sides of the tent up and tie them in place. I used 6 mil plastic because that is what I had around, but I think it is overly heavy and at some point I am going to replace this with lighter plastic. I probably will also re-engineer some of it to make it a bit higher, but toward the door of the garage I can only make it so high as I like to be able to open/close my garage door. This entire thing will be converted to my paint booth in the future (will need to clean it all up, new plastic, etc.). If you keep the area pretty clear it is pretty easy to sweep up the media and reuse. In addition to what is in the pressure pot, I have a clean 5 gallon bucket and as I sweep up the media, I filter it and put it back into the bucket. I bought two 50 lbs bags of media and I am guessing that while I have cycled it through a number of times, I probably still have 80% of it left.

Here is a picture of the tent…

[Richard Casto]

Time for an update

As always my site has more in the way of photos and text. My signature line should always have an up-to-date link. Here are a few quick links...

Main page...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm

Passenger Longitudinal repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_04.htm

Hell Hole repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_06.htm

Floorboard repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_18.htm

Enough of that. On with the update!

[Richard Casto]

Last month I had been working on cleaning up stuff in the hell hole area so I could start to fabricate parts. I had some places that I needed to finish cutting and/or grinding off the rusted areas

[Richard Casto]

Earlier this month I started to fabricate replacement parts. I am using a metal brake to make the basic bends and then doing some hammer forming to do the rest.


Here is a small metal brake from Harbor Freight. I have been too lazy to mount it to my bench. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) But it seems to be working OK so far. I also created some forms (steel rod welded to a thin bar) that I can use on the brake to do bends with a few mm radius vs. a sharp bend.


Here is a test I made with thinner gauge scrap. It is not dimensionally correct, but I wanted to make sure I could get the technique down first.


Here is the "form" I created so that I could hammer form some "channels"


This is the test part after doing the hammer forming. The orig part is just above it. The channel in the test part is too deep. I can fix that when I do the real thing.

[Richard Casto]

Here is the actual part I plan to put on the car. I adjusted the measurements from the test part and this one is a good match. I haven't hammer formed the channels into it yet.

It was around this time that I realized that I really need to fix part of the floor before I weld in the replacement for the lower passenger longitudinal. So I started work on just the floor near that longitudinal.

[Richard Casto]

Here I have marked up the lower section of the bulkhead. It is rusted through where it connects to the floor.


Here you can see how it rusted through right under the bulkhead. This is the hollow area right behind the seat at the bottom. The floor also has pin holes and pitting all along the area that it mates with the longitudinal.


Its all cut out. I didn't do the section near the front. I will do it after I get this back section replaced.

[Lou W]

Richard, this is amazing, you're doing a great job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Richard Casto]

By using a combination of the metal brake and hammer forming, I create the "hump" that the seat hinge part mounts to. Under the car there is a reinforcement welde over this and it creates a small box section.





So far this part is just simple straight bends. But at the end that is under the bulkhead it has a complex curve. I don't have a photo of it, but I create an Oak form by cutting it into the proper shape. Then I lay the metal over this and hammer it over the form. I then do a rough trim of the flange. I will do the final sizing of the flange areas (where the spot welding would be) when I do final fit up.

I still need to do some more work on this part, but it is pretty much in the correct shape. So far the hammer forming has gone much smoother than I could have hoped for.