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> Share your impressions after Engman install, Inner long kit !!
drive-ability
post Nov 7 2007, 11:50 PM
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I was hoping to get some opinions on the Engman inner long kit. We know its designed to stiffen up the center section but how does the car feel after the install. Can you feel a difference in the chassis? Sometimes I think its hard to measure a difference or judge performance because theres a built in bias when you buy and install something like this..
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PeeGreen 914
post Nov 8 2007, 12:11 AM
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I am having mine welded in in two weeks. I'll let you know.
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Chuck
post Nov 8 2007, 12:17 AM
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On another thread here that I read a while back someone mentioned that the passenger in their car noticed the change right away without knowing anything had been done.

I should add, via edit, that I have one in the box waiting to be installed on my 3.2 project.
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TravisNeff
post Nov 8 2007, 12:27 AM
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I noticed a big change after I installed mine. less cowl shake, car feels more solid over bumps and you can feel it as you steer.
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rjames
post Nov 8 2007, 02:29 AM
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I really wish I had installed the kit when I had the interior out for floor pan repairs. Would be a huge PITA to do now.
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drive-ability
post Nov 8 2007, 08:37 AM
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The reason I asked the question is I just Put my own version of one in and the car felt different. I wondered if it was just my expectations, bias or ?/. The body feels stiffer, much stiffer. I am running a V8 and with the extra weight & different C/G my impressions are its a big improvement.
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drive-ability
post Nov 8 2007, 08:49 AM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Nov 8 2007, 12:29 AM) *

I really wish I had installed the kit when I had the interior out for floor pan repairs. Would be a huge PITA to do now.


rjames,
I know what you mean, I had 1/2 gallon of Por-15, full layer of Dynamat and custom carpet installed (all Wall to Wall ). I put off thinking about it for a year but just decided one day its needed to be done. I modified a cheep small orbital type palm sander by attaching a rigid paint scraper blade to it. That really worked great removing the dynamat and factory undercoat. I did use a stiff wire wheel once the bulk of the material was removed. I'm glad I did it.
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TeenerTim
post Nov 8 2007, 09:17 AM
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Is this the kit you're talking about? (not my photo)
(IMG:http://www.sayegh.org/Paul/IMG_0157.JPG)
Did some research and found this installation thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t=14508&st=
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woobn8r
post Nov 8 2007, 09:24 AM
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I will definitely be installing one of these kits!
But, will also install the Mayeur outer kit....as I am not racing and I was once told..."if it's worth doing...It's worth overdoing".

Now, to shore up those consoles...
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drive-ability
post Nov 8 2007, 09:56 AM
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QUOTE(TeenerTim @ Nov 8 2007, 07:17 AM) *

Is this the kit you're talking about? (not my photo)
(IMG:http://www.sayegh.org/Paul/IMG_0157.JPG)
Did some research and found this installation thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t=14508&st=



Yes,
That's the one ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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skline
post Nov 8 2007, 10:05 AM
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I have installed them on two of the cars I have done with V8's and we did Joe Buckle's cars too and Jared's V8 car. It made a huge difference. I guess the biggest noticeable change was in Joe's V8 car. Before the kit, with the car up on the jack, you could not open and close the doors. Once the kit was in, they opened and closed perfectly. It was amazing. I firmly believe in these kits. I too install the outer kit from Tangerine racing just because I felt it needed it. I have not driven this car with all the kits installed yet, it is still about a year off from completion. But it is in and it is not coming out.
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JmuRiz
post Nov 8 2007, 10:12 AM
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Question:
What's the best way to keep the door gaps even while inside the car welding up the kit? I'd hate to have someone weld in the kit while the body is flexing etc.

FYI I have yet to purchase or install one of these but am very intrigued and will probably do so in the future.
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drive-ability
post Nov 8 2007, 10:13 AM
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skline,
I finished my inner kit yesterday and could feel the difference right away. The car feels different, more direct when just doing normal turns etc. I am surprised, sure hope its not the crack I smoked before leaving the garage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

(IMG:http://members.cox.net/stdotjohn/HANNAH%20AND%20DAD%20027%20(Small).jpg)
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marks914
post Nov 8 2007, 11:20 AM
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The Engman kit works well, but I prefer the Brad Mayeur kit. Its the only one that attaches the front of the car all the way back to the rear suspension mount, huge improvement.
Just my two cents

Mark


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Wes V
post Nov 8 2007, 11:31 AM
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The best thing is to get somebody (like Blood red 914-6qt) take measurements before and after.

Put the rear of the car on jack stands that are on the two sides. Then lift the front from one wheel. Measure the height of the front bumper on both ends. There should be a difference due to the twist of the chassis (that's why you want the rear on jack stands, not just sitting on the wheels.

Then have the engman stiffing added and do the same thing again.

That will tell you how much you have really stiffened the chassis.

Wes
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andys
post Nov 8 2007, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Nov 8 2007, 08:12 AM) *

Question:
What's the best way to keep the door gaps even while inside the car welding up the kit? I'd hate to have someone weld in the kit while the body is flexing etc.

FYI I have yet to purchase or install one of these but am very intrigued and will probably do so in the future.


Nathan,

I've asked this same question on a couple of occasions (and on a couple of forums) before. I have a rust free car with perfect door gaps; doors close great whether the car is on jack stands or not. I very much want to install the kit, but it seems there's no method for predicting door gap changes until after you're done. People recommend to measure everything before hand, use door brackets/braces, etc, but when all is said-and-done if it changes you're pretty much stuck with the result.

Skline, can you (or anyone else that's done this install) give us some idea of your experiences in this regard? Being the engineering type (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) , I'd like to know how it's all dealt with before committing.

Thanks,

Andys
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Chuck
post Nov 8 2007, 01:56 PM
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What it eventually will look like . . . .
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QUOTE(marks914 @ Nov 8 2007, 09:20 AM) *

The Engman kit works well, but I prefer the Brad Mayeur kit. Its the only one that attaches the front of the car all the way back to the rear suspension mount, huge improvement.
Just my two cents

Mark


Mark,

I know of a couple of people that have done both and at least one person that will be doing both. Being as my car is a street car and the little bit of extra weight will not be noticed, I am considering doing either Brad's kit or a set of clamshells as well. I'd be very curious to see what impressions are of folks that have both the Engman kit and Brad's kit or a set of clamshells.
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jd74914
post Nov 8 2007, 04:31 PM
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Why would your door gaps change if you are careful to keep them set using a brace and then weld slowly enough not to really put heat into the metal. I think the only cars that warp are those whose owners just pull out the welder and do it all in a short time. If you let it cool between every few sections of welds you shouldn't have a problem, right?
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Heeltoe914
post Nov 8 2007, 05:00 PM
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I did mine with the car flat on four wheels. Why would you need to jack it up? let the car sit naturally and weld away. If you are correcting gaps than go at it in a way as to force the body back to where you would like it, maybe alittle over, and than predict where it will sit back to.
The kits both work very well. I did it to my 3.2 and a 2.0L.
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andys
post Nov 8 2007, 05:16 PM
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QUOTE(jd74914 @ Nov 8 2007, 02:31 PM) *

Why would your door gaps change if you are careful to keep them set using a brace and then weld slowly enough not to really put heat into the metal. I think the only cars that warp are those whose owners just pull out the welder and do it all in a short time. If you let it cool between every few sections of welds you shouldn't have a problem, right?


Jim,

It is my understanding from those that have purportedly installed the Engman kit, that door gap changes are/can be an issue. Since I don't know and have no first hand experience, I thought I'd ask those that have installed it.

Though I understand your logic, anything welded (that re-melts and solidifies) is prone to change/shrinkage/warping. As with anything, it's a matter of degree. I agree that carefully managing the heat input and sequencing is a really good idea. If I do the install I will use a TIG welder, as I don't own a MIG. TIG welding at all those odd and difficult angles is something I'm not looking forward to.....My back hurts just thinking about it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Andys
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