Orange 75 project, Clutch and Shifter setup Options

[my928s4]

Got some parts this week, I got the flange for the turbo of Ebay and the 3" tube and muffler from Summit. Actually ordered way more tube than I needed but it was pretty inexpensive.

I think this is going to be a little loud but will be good enough to get things going.

A bandsaw would have made this job a lot easier!







Need to fabricate a hanger and get some kind of exhaust tip, 3" looks a little ricey but minor issue for now.

Going to leave it tacked for now, just incase I feel the need to modify something in the next couple of weeks.

I have the coolant adapters from RH, so tomorrow coolant pipes hooked up!

[rohar]

It's comming along nicely. If you've got some time, stop by the track tomorrow. I'm fielding the Teutonic Turd and there's a lot of great people to meet out there.

[charliew]

My advice is a little late but did you look at the pickup real close to see if the pan contacted it when it was dented in? The pickups seem to be easily cracked where they are brazed or silver soldered on the flange where they bolt on the block. The pan to pickup clearance is real close when it's all stock and it doesn't take much to bump the pickup. Nasioc has a few threads on the cracked pickup. I have added a brace on all the pickups we are using at my house to try and stop any vibration.

Also while the intake is off is a good time to do a delete on the tgvs for better airflow in the intake. I actually don't see any shaft or connectors for tgvs so it must not have them. Pretty neat.

Also while I was studying your pictures there is a sensor it appears on the back side of the drivers side head in the oil gallery. This is new to me. I'm trying to remember and I think that oil gallery is restricted with a orfice to reduce the oil to the heads, I'm wondering if it is a low oil pressure feedback safety thing to the ecu. To clean the oil gallerys on the heads you have to tap the orfice out and put it back in and it only goes one way out of the gallery, it fits against a shoulder in the gallery. You have to remove the 1/8 plugs on either end of the head to do this. I think it is in the front on the drivers side and the rear on the pass side as the turbo gets its oil on the pass side. I'm pretty sure that new sensor not there on the 04 sti of my sons, we have had it apart a couple of times. It might also just be a jdm thing.

I also wonder if this is a jdm motor if it has higher compression like the older jdm motors, if so it will need better fuel but it also will be higher horsepower than the usdm version.

[my928s4]

It's comming along nicely. If you've got some time, stop by the track tomorrow. I'm fielding the Teutonic Turd and there's a lot of great people to meet out there.

Could not make it happen today but you chose perfect weather! Were you out with Scott Adere and gang?

My advice is a little late but did you look at the pickup real close to see if the pan contacted it when it was dented in? The pickups seem to be easily cracked where they are brazed or silver soldered on the flange where they bolt on the block. The pan to pickup clearance is real close when it's all stock and it doesn't take much to bump the pickup. Nasioc has a few threads on the cracked pickup. I have added a brace on all the pickups we are using at my house to try and stop any vibration.

You may well be right on the pickup, I checked to make sure the brace was straight but did not check the joint for cracks, I was cranking the engine yesterday and did not see oil pressure so looks like sump will come off again.

See the attached pic for the location for the rear sensor, this was from NASIOC.

[my928s4]

While picking up some hose clamps from Autozone I picked up the parts to cobble together an intake. One more thing of the list.



Hooked up the coolant lines from engine to radiator, RH adapters are actually nice parts and not too spendy either.





Shot under the car



Also hooked up the accelerator cable, standard cable works with some minor mods, still a little long but it does the job.



Also checked out the clutch cable, again looks like it will work but it needs to be longer, once I have the details will have Terry Cable make me one.

[Chris H.]

You're getting close Chris! Looking good... Your comment, "I think it's going to be a little loud" might be an understatement... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) But loud is good!

[charliew]

Chris make sure the map sensor is turned the right direction. One time after reinstalling my sons motor on an all nighter we put a different aircleaner and cold air intake on that I made and got it turned around and it wouldn't even idle. He got on nasioc and figgured it out while I rested on the couch that morning. Also try to check the cfm requirements on that aircleaner you probably need at least 500 cfm. For each 1hp you need 1.45 cfm. I bet that motor is at least 260 hp. Also slow cranking will make it hard to get the oil up in the pump if it has drained down for a long while. The rear of the motor like you have it, is the best place to get a accurate oil pressure reading because it's after the rods. Also make sure the knock sensor is torqued to the correct specs or you may get knock errors prematurely.

[rohar]

It's comming along nicely. If you've got some time, stop by the track tomorrow. I'm fielding the Teutonic Turd and there's a lot of great people to meet out there.

Could not make it happen today but you chose perfect weather! Were you out with Scott Adere and gang?

Yup, had a friend that needed to learn to drive and a new track car that needed shaking down. It was an amazing weekend. Scott knows how to put an event together.

[jimkelly]

questions?

1- are these what renegade calls - coolant hose adaptors - and sells two for $39?

2- the two large ID hoses you have connected to your engine - did you source them yourself or are they part of renegades cooling system offering?

thanks
jim

[BIGKAT_83]

here's the place to get hose adapters.Jags that run. Ive ordered from them a few times and have been very happy with the service and product. After you buy more than 5 the price drops to $10 each.



Bob

[my928s4]

questions?
1- are these what renegade calls - coolant hose adapters - and sells two for $39?

Yes that be them, if you can weld aluminum and have the right diameter stock you could do it yourself. They are also flanged at the ends.

2- the two large ID hoses you have connected to your engine - did you source them yourself or are they part of renegades cooling system offering?

Those are the OEM Subaru hoses which I bought, the lower one can be used as is, the upper needs to be cut short to remove a 90degree bend.

Hope that helps!

[my928s4]

Once I put in a larger fuse for the fuel pump and connected the fuel lines up the right way we were in business!!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUDZEHq6mwA


Man that was quite the rush, daughter even got some fuel spray over her when I disconnected the fuel line and not even phased.

Don't examine the intercooler plumbing too closely, that definitely needs work.

[my928s4]

Been tidying up odds and ends and getting more familiar with the engine, after the start last week the fittings on the gas tank started to leak, I knew those old alloy nuts were border line and after I tried to tighten one more time one of them was too far gone. Was tempted with the AN fitting adapters from the VW site but in the end just ordered new nuts from AutoAtlanta. Fitted and now no more gas smell in the garage.

ECU was also throwing some codes, had a couple of the AVCS wires wrong and once that was corrected I am just left with the Rear O2 sensor code which as I do not have one yet seems reasonable.



Finally got the cooling system bled, that was a royal pain, I raised the rear of the car and the final tip which was on this sight to fill from the hose (see pic below) on the throttle body got it done.



Plugged the purge line on the intake, this corrected an erratic idle when it was open.



Here you can see oil pressure when cold, low fuel level is a tad bright ....



And here are readings of gauges when warm, engine temp stays in 85-90 range (now system is air free ...).



I still have the charge lamp lit, pretty sure this is because I have an LED not a bulb, need to fix that.

Also need to plumb in wastegate solenoid, weld an O2 bung in the exhaust and get that intake plumbing sorted.

[rohar]

Crap, whole lots of progress! I should probably get out to the shop and make some progress. Compared to you I'm making the Spokane contingent look bad.

[3d914]

Chris, great thread to follow. Keep it up - you're almost there.

[charliew]

This is a great informative thread. You and others have covered lots of obstacles. You have made it a lot easier for us lagging behind folks. That o2 sensor error is the heater side of the o2 it seems to be saying. You probably could use a resistor or just hook the o2 sensor up to clear it until you get romraider going. I would be surprised if subaru uses a light to trigger the charging like a gm alternator though. Have you figgured out if the fuel pressure control is pulse width modulated on the suby control circuit? Or did you just hook up the pump to 12 vdc I guess. The sti of my son's car has lower pressure at idle and higher pressure under boost.

[my928s4]

I would be surprised if subaru uses a light to trigger the charging like a gm alternator though. Have you figgured out if the fuel pressure control is pulse width modulated on the suby control circuit? Or did you just hook up the pump to 12 vdc I guess. The sti of my son's car has lower pressure at idle and higher pressure under boost.

I would be surprised too on the alternator, low priority but hopefully get to look at it soon. Also on the alternator it is tough to get a short enough belt, need 28" and locally the nearest was over 29" but found one on the internet.

I used the WRX fuel pump controller, I have not put a scope on it but presume it operates as it should .....

[Zaney]

Chris,
I had the same error code pop up on my scanner too. If you have a way to turn it off (RomRaider) it doesn't hurt anything. That is what my Suby shop guys said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)) As long as you do not have to take it through emissions...
Just remember, it is licensed as a 1975 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I am impressed in all of the detail you put in the car!

Hope to see it at WCC 13!!!

Cheers!
Nate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[my928s4]

So had some fun with the ECU today, got my Tactrix device so I can hook up the OBD to the laptop. It works great, just as well as there is no user manual for this thing not even to say what the LED's are for.



So I tried a few times to connect with no luck, need to make sure the flash connector and test connector are hooked up then hit 'OK' on the screen at the same time you turn the ignition on. A brief moment of jubilation was to be had before I found out that my image was not supported .... I had to download a hex reader to find the image code was A4RI400I. After searching I found there was an A4RI401I variant that was supported.

Now all I needed was the A4RI401I ROM image, sure enough someone has hosted that on the RomRaider forum. OK now comes the keep your fingers crossed part, downloading the new image... well it worked out OK and the engine started afterwards! Result.

Below is a screenshot of the EcuFlash SW you need to read and write to the ECU with.



Here is a shot of the RomRaider where you can modify the image then use EcuFlash to download.



The following is the best part and that is the real time logger part of RomRaider which with a wideband o2 sensor should give me the ability to tweak some parameters or if nothing else help me debug issues.



Neat to get this working.

[charliew]

I forwarded this thread to my son and called him to ask if he could help make this any easier. He is driving back from alabama from the a&m game now but he said he would look at it when he gets time. He wasn't to the miss border yet so it may not be today.