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> Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914...
FourBlades
post Dec 15 2007, 02:02 PM
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Hello 914 World Members!

I am starting on restoring a $500 914 that was left in a field for several years with no windshield. The car belonged to the POs older brother and thus has sentimental value. The sold it to me on the condition that I not part it out. I was looking for a project so this was fine with me. This is my first restoration project so I figured I would learn a lot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The car is a mixture of really good sections, appears to have suffered no major accidents, is straight, never been repainted--but it has totally rusted out floors and hell hole. All the suspension mounting points are not rusted. The door gaps are all even and good. If I can replace the floors, I think it will be a good straight car. Many small parts were stolen while it was "stored" and the wiring loom is a complete loss.

Thanks for any comments...John
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FourBlades
post Dec 15 2007, 02:09 PM
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Some pictures in my restoration "garage".

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David_S
post Dec 15 2007, 02:13 PM
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QUOTE(FourBlades @ Dec 15 2007, 02:02 PM) *

Hello 914 World Members!

I am starting on restoring a $500 914 that was left in a field for several years with no windshield. The car belonged to the POs older brother and thus has sentimental value. The sold it to me on the condition that I not part it out. I was looking for a project so this was fine with me. This is my first restoration project so I figured I would learn a lot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hmmmm that sounds soooo familiar to me !! My 73 was picked up from a guy that drove it for a couple of years without a windshield in it. It sat outside for about 5 years before I got it. Stick with it and it will make a great project if it isn't too badly rusted !!
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Joe Owensby
post Dec 15 2007, 03:09 PM
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Start digging into it to see how bad the rust is. Heat the floorboard tar with a hot air gun and scrape it out. Then you can see how much damage has been done. Look at the longs to make sure the rust isn't up into them. Also look at the hell hole area below the battery.

I left my car outside for many years. Unknown to me, the rear window had come unglued and allowed water to enter the car. I ended up replacing the floorboard, and lower portions of the rear firewalls. The Longs were OK. I had taken care of the battery acid many years earlier, so my hell hole was not rusted through. The rear firewall inslulation had accumulated water , and the lower firewall was rusted. i cut it out and replaced it. I replaced the floorpan with one from AA. I wanted mine to be real nice, so I replaced a lot of stuff that would have been OK , just not as nice. Repair is much easier to do on a Rotiserrie. I have been working on it for just over 2 years. Lots of time spent, and a few $'s just to get it back to almost new. Almost everything on it had a little rust somewhere so i ended up cleaning almost everything up and re-painting it all. So far, it looks great. I will post photos soon. If you are prepared to do the work, you should be able to get a good car. Good luck, JoeO
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roadster fan
post Dec 15 2007, 03:16 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Dig In, and see what you have. The undercoating on my '73 started falling off so I removed it all. Some guys spray with products to protect the insides of the wheels wells from rocks, others prime and paint with the rest of the car.

I noticed you live in Brevard, FL.....those are my old stomping grounds. I lived in Satellite Beach and went to school at BCC. Nice area.

Good luck with the start of your project, you found the right place for help and encouragement along the way.

Jim
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Chuck
post Dec 15 2007, 03:42 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

As Yogi would say, its deja vu all over again. I picked up a '73 last April. Previous owner had not driven the car in over 15 years and had let it sit. Rear window leaked. Rear floorpan is rusted and a complete floor replacement will occur. Lower inner firewall is also rusted and needs work. Hell hole is pretty bad and will need to do some metal replacement on the inner and outer longs. But . . .

Original paint. No accidents. Door gaps are good. Car is straight. Will be doing a complete restoration and a 6 conversion. PO had undercoated the inner fender wells as well. A lot of the undercoating is now flaking off. I'm stripping the complete car to bare metal as part of the resto.

Welcome to the madness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)
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FourBlades
post Dec 15 2007, 10:15 PM
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Thanks for the encouragement. I can see this is a road many of you have taken already. It looks like the floor pan is a total loss. I pried up a lot of the tar and the floor is basically falling out. The lower, inner edges of the longs are rusted through, the rest is not too bad.

It is finally cool enough down here in FL to work outside and be somewhat comfortable. Brevard county is nice but you get tired of the humidity all the time.

If the inside edge of the longs are rusted out (the part closest to the cabin) and the floor pan needs replacing, should I replace the floor pan first and then patch the longs or the other way around? I assume the floor pan is spot welded to the bottom of the inner long, right?

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FourBlades
post Dec 15 2007, 10:18 PM
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QUOTE(Chuck @ Dec 15 2007, 01:42 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

As Yogi would say, its deja vu all over again. I picked up a '73 last April. Previous owner had not driven the car in over 15 years and had let it sit. Rear window leaked. Rear floorpan is rusted and a complete floor replacement will occur. Lower inner firewall is also rusted and needs work. Hell hole is pretty bad and will need to do some metal replacement on the inner and outer longs. But . . .

Original paint. No accidents. Door gaps are good. Car is straight. Will be doing a complete restoration and a 6 conversion. PO had undercoated the inner fender wells as well. A lot of the undercoating is now flaking off. I'm stripping the complete car to bare metal as part of the resto.

Welcome to the madness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)


I think I will take off the undercoating as well. Any tips on how to remove what is left of the edges of the floor pan? Is this a matter of drilling out spot welds and peeling it off with an air chisel?

What size six are you thinking of putting in? I have not decided on a motor yet, but would like lots of torque for AX, maybe a big type 4.
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Chuck
post Dec 15 2007, 10:20 PM
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You're correct. The floorpan is spot welded to the longs. You'll need to patch and repair the longs before you weld in the new floorpan.
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swl
post Dec 16 2007, 07:46 AM
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I hate to be a spoil sport but that interior picture tells me you have more than floor board problems. The longs are badly rusted at the bottom and if the pattern is the same as mine then the rust started inside and there is no steel left down there. It can be repaired - see the thread 'digging into hell'. I think it is now in the classics.

Get out your ice pick and go poking around. Look at the outer longs as well particularly passenger side rear.
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FourBlades
post Dec 16 2007, 09:40 AM
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QUOTE(swl @ Dec 16 2007, 05:46 AM) *

I hate to be a spoil sport but that interior picture tells me you have more than floor board problems. The longs are badly rusted at the bottom and if the pattern is the same as mine then the rust started inside and there is no steel left down there. It can be repaired - see the thread 'digging into hell'. I think it is now in the classics.

Get out your ice pick and go poking around. Look at the outer longs as well particularly passenger side rear.


Yes, you are right. The inside part of both longs are rusted through. Strangely, the outside longs are in good shape except at the front and back ends. Passenger rear is in bad shape, I guess from hell hole rust through. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I read your "digging into hell" thread, great stuff for someone who has the same problems to solve. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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swl
post Dec 16 2007, 03:48 PM
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Just for the record that wasn't me on the digging into hell thread. That was michelko from Germany. I just wish I had the skills and patience that he has!

I had to accept that my car was beyond my ability to restore. I went out and bought another project with a strong frame - lot cheaper in the long run. Took a lot of soul searching to make that decision. I had that car since college days.

Without doubt the passenger rear is from the battery acid. You will probably find more of the same behind the passenger seat on the firewall.

.
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Chuck
post Dec 16 2007, 05:34 PM
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QUOTE
What size six are you thinking of putting in? I have not decided on a motor yet, but would like lots of torque for AX, maybe a big type 4.


If you decide to go the big 4 route check out Jake Raby. If you want to autocross your car, the 4 is probably your best choice - others here may disagree. A number of Jake's combos put out as much hp and torque as some sixes and you save weight. Run a search here for Jake's stuff or visit his site at www.aircooledtechnology.com

My car will be just a street car. I was going to go 4 until I located a nice 3.2 six. Now, the 4 will be saved for a future Spyder project.
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Jake Raby
post Dec 17 2007, 07:58 AM
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QUOTE(Chuck @ Dec 16 2007, 04:34 PM) *
QUOTE

What size six are you thinking of putting in? I have not decided on a motor yet, but would like lots of torque for AX, maybe a big type 4.


If you decide to go the big 4 route check out Jake Raby. If you want to autocross your car, the 4 is probably your best choice - others here may disagree. A number of Jake's combos put out as much hp and torque as some sixes and you save weight. Run a search here for Jake's stuff or visit his site at www.aircooledtechnology.com

My car will be just a street car. I was going to go 4 until I located a nice 3.2 six. Now, the 4 will be saved for a future Spyder project.


Yep, if a powerful lightweight, nimble car is to be in the future feel free to yell at me!

We now have 200HP in kit form and 225 in Turnkey form..

On pump gas.
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FourBlades
post Jan 17 2008, 06:38 PM
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Thanks guys, I am seriously interested in a 2270 4 cylinder or maybe McMark's
$5000 special...

I need to post some progress pictures because I am getting the longs and hell hole into shape. Soon it will be time to get a motor ordered so it will be ready when I am.

I am undecided about 4 lug versus 5 lug. I need to decide so I can get my brakes calipers rebuilt and buy some new rotors.

It would help if it would quit raining here in Florida, this is supposed to be the dry season (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

John



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FourBlades
post Jan 17 2008, 06:43 PM
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Cleaned to good metal, primed, patched and added home brewed 16 guage hell hole/long stiffener. I primed it right after this shot but the shiny metal looks nice after all the rust.

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McMark is sending me a new motor mount.

Now I need to determine if I need a new suspension console as well.

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tracks914
post Jan 17 2008, 07:36 PM
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Nice work, I think you will do well.
I just did a chassis in worse shape than "diggin into hell". I didn't do it for sentimental reasons, or financial reasons, I only did it so that I could say I did.
Good luck and email me if you need long distance advice on anything.
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swl
post Jan 18 2008, 03:10 PM
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Indeed that was one awful looking chassis you brought back to life Doug.

You want to do it again - got just the car for you lol
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FourBlades
post Jan 18 2008, 08:13 PM
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Thanks Doug, I will most likely be asking for advice. "Digging into hell" is one of my favorite threads along with "Bringing out the dead". I have learned so much from this board.

Where is Timmins? I spent a lot of time in Ontario and have relatives in Ottawa. Canada is a great country for a lot of reasons but just too cold for too long.

John
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FourBlades
post Feb 2 2008, 07:44 PM
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Hell hole finally makes it to primer heaven! I don't like the look of the welds sticking up but I would rather not weaken it with too much grinding.

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Outside of long patched up and new jack hole stuff. Not sure I stuck the jack hole tube out far enough, I don't want to have to weld on an extension. Should I weld the end of the jack hole tube to the jack hole cover?

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Still need to weld on a new motor mount and probably need to replace my suspension console. The bottom of it is pretty much crumbling with rust.

John
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