 Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914... |
|
|
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
|
  |
| PanelBilly |
 Feb 12 2009, 11:58 AM
Post
#177
|
|
914 Guru  Group: Members Posts: 5,865 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest 
 |
Your making me want to start another project, The stage you in is so much fun. Turning old into new, its like art with metal.
Sigh, I guess I need to finish the two cars I have in the shop first. |
   |
 
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 12 2009, 04:22 PM
Post
#178
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
This is a fun stage. Its only taken 15 months of work to get here too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
T.C. if you wake up one morning and your passenger door is gone then you will have a pretty good idea where it went. Seriously, the door Steve gave me is almost too nice for my Frankenfourteen. I refurbished my old passenger door. It took about 4 or 5 hours and about a gallon of bondo to smooth it out, ok, maybe a quart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) This is the door I was welding on a few days ago. I used my new fuji turbine sprayer for the first time and managed to put a nicely orange peeled couple coats of epoxy primer on it. Here it is resting on the IMSA car to keep it out of the weather. It looks better in the picture than in reality.  John |
|
|
|
| ConeDodger |
Feb 15 2009, 11:01 AM
Post
#179
|
|
Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,857 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California
|
Ummmmm Wow! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (slinks away in shame)
|
|
|
|
| jimkelly |
Feb 15 2009, 03:57 PM
Post
#180
|
|
Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
|
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 17 2009, 07:20 PM
Post
#181
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
I know you all won't believe this but it turns out my rear trunk lid has rust!
See for yourself.  Oh boy, more rust repair. I did discover one pretty cool thing though, which you will see in a minute.  The ribs on the trunk are full of foam (that is not the cool thing). I guess it must be there to stop the ribs from rattling or to collect water so the lid rusts out.  Cut out the foam. OK, here is the cool part. Earlier I had used aircraft stripper to remove the paint from the outside of the lid. It took about 4 applications to get rid of all the layers of paint, primer, and bondo. There is a pretty big dent in the lid, which some one had fixed with bondo. They had obviously sanded a large area around the repair. This took off the layer of galvanizing that the manufacturer had applied (lighter areas in the picture). By stripping the paint chemically most of the galvanizing is still there (the dark areas).  I was looking closely at the panel while cleaning it and I noticed this cool thing:  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) There is a barely visible crest in the galvanizing that was put there by the manufacturer. It looks like the initials "SWR" with a shield and a boat or something. I can't guess what company this must be, I am sure someone on the World knows??? John |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 17 2009, 07:36 PM
Post
#182
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
OK, so now to fix the trunk lid. You need to remember that the edge of the trunk
is curved. Pretty much everything everywhere on a car is curved in some way. To make a patch that fits I bent a piece of steel rod into the right shape.  Then I transferred this curve to the metal. Please ignore the first patch that I made that you can see in the picture that is straight and does not fit at all. Doh!  The trunk rib has a ridge in it lengthwise that I wanted to reproduce for an undetectable, concours repair. Cough. Using a leather bag filled with #16 birdshot, form the ridge by pounding the steel rod used earlier to create the desired shape. Remember to use the suede side of the bag to reproduce the wavy, factory texture.  OK, so that is all total bullshit that I made up. I don't have any bird shot and I have no idea where that leather came from. The real way you do it is find some soft sand (pretty much anywhere in Florida) and pound on it on the ground.  Test fit the patch.  Weld it up. It is getting dark so we'll see tomorrow how well the repair turned out.  So my question to the gurus is, how do you apply bondo and sand out the waves in your panels without taking off the galvanizing? Do you prime it first and then bondo and sand it? John |
|
|
|
| scotty b |
Feb 17 2009, 07:46 PM
Post
#183
|
|
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Scuff it good. Prime it, sand the rimer to get some good scratches, apply bondo. Make certain you neutralize that panel VERY WELL before you do anything. Stripper residue WILL come back and it may be well after the car has been painted !!
|
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 17 2009, 08:11 PM
Post
#184
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
OK, thanks Scotty. I was going to wash it with simple green, water, and finally paint prep. I had forgotten about the dangers of stripper under your paint. John |
|
|
|
| Katmanken |
Feb 17 2009, 08:25 PM
Post
#185
|
|
You haven't seen me if anybody asks... Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Dang,
You did the trunk the hard way.... Got tired of being bitten by the sharp little rust teeth hiding under trunk every time I opened it So, took a screwdriver, spread the fold open to expose the rust bubbles and took it to the local metal dip refinishers.... They burned out the foam, and dipped the lid in their car sized tank and it came out spotless from their electrical rust removal process... All I had to do was bang the lid with a rubber mallet to get the neutralized rust to break loose and fall out, recrimped the fold and welded a patch into a small hole.... Poured ospho under the reinforcement to wick into the seams at the folds and primed that puppy. Wherabouts in Brevard are you? I went to FIT, married a local redhead and lived in Indiatlantic a half a block from the beach. And of course, did 3 years of purgatory at Harris. Ken |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 18 2009, 06:53 AM
Post
#186
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
Ken, Next time I will do it your way. I am convinced dipping or blasting a rust bucket car would save 100s of hours of tedious cleaning. Right now I am in get it done now mode so I can paint this sucker and start putting it back together. I live in Melbourne Beach, probably within a few miles of your old place. Done my time at Harris as well. John |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 18 2009, 06:45 PM
Post
#187
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
Nothing like a tree full of primed panels. I did both doors and both trunk lids
today. I can see why paint jobs cost what they do. All the tedious cleaning and sanding to get a good coat. It is super satisfying though when you get to the last 1% of the work, the spraying. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)  I primed this in the morning, sanded it in the afternoon and sprayed on two more primer coats. I have never painted a car before so I have a lot to learn. I did get less orange peel by turning down the paint amount. I am sure when I do the color coat it will look like crap the first few times. It is hard to keep the gun moving the same speed and the same distance from the panel. I also got no paint on the bottom edge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)  I am using two part epoxy primer. Is this waterproof? Will it rust if I leave outside under a car cover? Overall I am really stoked about doing this. John |
|
|
|
| roadster fan |
Feb 24 2009, 05:00 PM
Post
#188
|
|
Project Frankenstein !!!!!!!! Group: Members Posts: 1,009 Joined: 24-November 05 From: Aptos, CA Member No.: 5,184 Region Association: Northern California |
I am using two part epoxy primer. Is this waterproof? Will it rust if I leave
outside under a car cover? Overall I am really stoked about doing this. John [/quote] I had a 6"x4" repair on an old truck sprayed with two part epoxy primer and after 4 years it looked exactly the same as the day it was sprayed. oh and it was on the top of the truck roof at the windshield, always parked outside in all weather. You should be ok if you keep it covered, but your climate is different than mine (humidity (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) Jim |
|
|
|
| toon1 |
Feb 24 2009, 07:03 PM
Post
#189
|
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 17 2009, 05:46 PM)  Scuff it good. Prime it, sand the rimer to get some good scratches, apply bondo. Make certain you neutralize that panel VERY WELL before you do anything. Stripper residue WILL come back and it may be well after the car has been painted !! I'm using stripper also, what is the best way to make sure the panels are clean? |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 25 2009, 04:35 PM
Post
#190
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
Jim, if your repair lasted 4 years mine should be good a week or so until I get
the color sprayed on it. After stripping (4 or 5 applications) I washed it several times with water and a scotch brite pad, then water on clean rags. Then I sprayed it liberally with metal ready (until it was dripping off) and left it for 2-3 hours to etch. I washed the metal ready off with water a few times, then used paint prep. A really time consuming and messy process, but quiet. I did not want to make all the noise that power sanding the whole car would have. Read somewhere that covering the stripper with plastic wrap keeps it from drying out and might make it remove more layers per application. Gonna try that. Primer...  John |
|
|
|
| al weidman |
Feb 26 2009, 05:52 PM
Post
#191
|
|
Al Weidman Group: Members Posts: 156 Joined: 22-February 08 From: Oroville, Ca. Member No.: 8,736 Region Association: Northern California |
I know you have started on your IMSA car, but please don't leave us hanging on this one. At least let us know what your plans are. You have done an inspiring job on this and I plan to get right out there on my Calif. rust bucket. I was going to use it for a parts until I saw your project. My car has some rust in the trunks and floors but that's it. You've made mine into a keeper and I am inspired to bring another one back. Al.
|
|
|
|
| ConeDodger |
Feb 26 2009, 06:13 PM
Post
#192
|
|
Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,857 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California
|
QUOTE(al weidman @ Feb 26 2009, 03:52 PM) I know you have started on your IMSA car, but please don't leave us hanging on this one. At least let us know what your plans are. You have done an inspiring job on this and I plan to get right out there on my Calif. rust bucket. I was going to use it for a parts until I saw your project. My car has some rust in the trunks and floors but that's it. You've made mine into a keeper and I am inspired to bring another one back. Al. John, If you know anything of the work of Al and/or his brother Harvey, you have just recieved high praise indeed... Great project. |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Feb 26 2009, 11:04 PM
Post
#193
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
Hey thanks Al and Rob. Don't worry, the Rockin 914 comes first before any serious work on the IMSA car. I was out there this evening stripping more paint and hope to maybe (cross fingers) shoot some color on it this weekend!!! With the parts available or with the serious patience about any 914 that is still in one piece can be saved. Look at Veltror's car.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I think the Rockin 914 will live up to its name with a Raby 2270, Tangerine Racing headers and exhaust, McMark's FreeMotion suspension, Eric's rebuilt M calipers, Engman's long kit, etc. etc. I can't wait to get it on the road. John |
|
|
|
| FourBlades |
Mar 1 2009, 06:47 PM
Post
#194
|
|
From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States
|
Got most of the inside and outside primed and then ran out of primer. Doh!
Tried on one of the fiberglass rocker panels just for fun. Fits well.  I have to confess that I was too lazy to strip the wheel wells of their old undercoating. I'll make that a project for once the car is a driver. Forgot to remove the trunk lock, dang it. At least I have loads of experience in stripping paint off of things.  John |
|
|
|
| jc914 |
Mar 1 2009, 07:02 PM
Post
#195
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 289 Joined: 15-September 08 From: Miami, Florida Member No.: 9,548 Region Association: South East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Once again Great JOB
|
|
|
|
| stepuptotheMike |
Mar 1 2009, 08:33 PM
Post
#196
|
|
medium pimpin Group: Members Posts: 565 Joined: 4-September 06 From: Charlotte, NC Member No.: 6,769 Region Association: South East States |
will the chemical stripper remove the old undercoating? or will you have to wire wheel/sand it?
Mike |
|
|
|
|
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 31st December 2024 - 06:28 PM |
Invision Power Board
v9.1.4 © 2025 IPS, Inc.