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> Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914...
FourBlades
post Mar 2 2009, 07:40 AM
Post #197


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Mike,

Some of it is just flaking off by itself. The new undercoating I put on was easy to
get off with stripper, not sure about the old stuff. I am just over the whole
cleaning and sanding thing right now. Probably should do it now but what the
heck, this is a hobby not a job.

John

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FourBlades
post Mar 8 2009, 05:29 PM
Post #198


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The first shot of color. Adriatic Blue:

Attached Image

It looks much better in the picture than it really is. Lots of little scratches that
did not show up in the primer. Assorted dust and bugs. One big bump on the
sail panel that I did not notice until there was some gloss to reflect light.

Attached Image

Now that I am over the initial desire to see some color on the car I can take my
time and sand this out more before trying again. The hood is actually not too
bad because I wet sanded it more than the car.

I probably should have painted the interior first, but what the hell. This is
supposed to be a learning experience, and I learned a lot of things not to
do next time.

John
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MDG
post Mar 8 2009, 06:00 PM
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Adriatic Blue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

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dlee6204
post Mar 8 2009, 06:04 PM
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Its looking good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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jc914
post Mar 8 2009, 06:09 PM
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Incredible work once again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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FourBlades
post Mar 14 2009, 04:26 PM
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Three coats of color laid on!

Attached Image

Attached Image

Here I am in my Sunday best finishing the last coat. I have a supplied air
respirator and I put the air pump inside my garage and mostly close the door.
The flow of air helps keep you cool and you don't smell the paint at all. This
set up was about $500 on ebay but worth it for saving your health.

Attached Image

I realized when I was done that I had painted my feet pretty well...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

The paint looks pretty good to me. A few small drips and not many dust spots.
I wet down the whole area before starting. Still have to paint the doors and the
interior.

John
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ssstikircr
post Mar 14 2009, 04:51 PM
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Looks GREAT so far!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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carr914
post Mar 14 2009, 05:13 PM
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From a throw-away 914 to this far is amazing John. I'm truly glad that you have the IMSA car- it's definately in the right hands.

T.C.

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al weidman
post Mar 16 2009, 04:41 PM
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John, as you can see, there are allot of us that have seen what you have accomplished and have been inspired to tackle our own projects. I too have some front hood channel and headlight channel to repair, where the rubber moulding fits. What gauge metel did you use for your fabrication? Thanks, and be sure to keep us involved on your interior and motor installation, that 2270 is really going to scoot. Al. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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FourBlades
post Mar 16 2009, 06:25 PM
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Hey Al, thanks for the good words. I used 22 gauge steel for all the channels.

I think the original might be more like 20, but its close.

I used a small brake to make up sections of channel to repair the problem areas,
cut out the bad parts, then carefully tacked the new piece in. Keep adding tacks
until they overlap, work slowly so it does not warp. The hardest part I found was
smoothing the welds where the ends of the channel joined the original metal.
It is not too hard, just time consuming.

This would be an easy job if you had a spot welder and a brake. You could just
replicate exactly how Porsche did it.

The truth is that keeping this thread has really helped to keep me motivated. If
I did not have a way of sharing this and getting comments from people I think I
would have quit a long time ago. Starting a thread is a great way to motivate
yourself to keep working, hint hint.

John
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dlee6204
post Mar 16 2009, 07:25 PM
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You get motivated. We get motivated. We all get motivated. It's a win-win situation for everybody! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) You have done some amazing work on the car so far. I was never really a fan of the adriatic blue until I saw it on your car... now I can't take my eyes off it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) Great job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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pjf
post Mar 22 2009, 07:53 AM
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Great job! My apologies if you have already mentioned these things but I was wondering where you got the fiberglass rockers and also what brand primer and paint are you using?
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FourBlades
post Mar 23 2009, 09:06 AM
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I bought the rockers on ebay. I will have to try to dig up the seller's name when
I am at home.

I am using Dimension single stage paint from Sherwin Williams, over their
two part epoxy primer. I wanted single stage to make repairing chips and
dings from track use easier. I picked Sherwin Williams because they are
10 minutes from my house. They make paint that is resold by other people
including NAPA. The primer is about $50 a gallon including both parts.
The adriatic blue acrylic enamel is $200 a gallon when you include reducer and
hardener. Other colors can be a lot more, like yellow is about $700 a gallon!

Yellow may be faster, but speed clearly costs money.

John

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ConeDodger
post Mar 23 2009, 09:20 AM
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Nice work John! Color is so exciting. Now for the reassembly!
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FourBlades
post Mar 23 2009, 09:24 AM
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Thanks Rob. I can't wait to put parts on instead of taking them off.

I am sure I will have tons of questions for everyone...

John
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pjf
post Mar 23 2009, 08:19 PM
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Thanks for the paint info. If you have the Ebay seller of the rockers that would be great. Fit and finish good? I've read on other threads that rockers don't always fit as they should.
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FourBlades
post Mar 25 2009, 07:35 PM
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The ebay seller's id was zero-kewl914. Hope its ok to post this.

The panels fit really well and the jacking holes are in the right places.

I have been slammed with work and visitors for a while, but I will post
some close up pictures when I get a chance to fit them.

I notice he has nothing for sale right now, maybe check in a few days.

John
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jcambo7
post Mar 26 2009, 02:37 AM
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Looking great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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FourBlades
post Apr 2 2009, 07:36 PM
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Getting ready to paint the interior. It is critical to have a clean and well
organized work area, free from extraneous dirt and debris as illustrated
here.

Attached Image

Painting! Bought a set of 8 ounce cups that make maneuvering the paint gun
in tight areas much easier. I also bought a very light and flexible air line that
runs the last six feet to the gun. Between the two you are holding less
weight due to much less paint and lighter hose.

Attached Image

Chemistry set for big kids. Buying 100 disposable cups with measuring
lines printed inside really helps as well.

Attached Image

Painted!

Attached Image

Attached Image

Getting dark so I rigged some big lights to help do the third coat. Feeling
pretty smug about now when every freaking bug in the neighborhood decides
to show up and land in my new paint.

Attached Image

Last major area to paint is the engine bay.
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FourBlades
post May 4 2009, 06:51 PM
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Putting the FreeMotion (roller bearing) front suspension pieces on. This is pretty
easy to put together. I used a large wood working vise to press the bearings into
the sleaves that go on the control arms. Very cool kit, I want one for the rear
suspension now...

Attached Image

Put on the control arm and stock anti roll bar.

Attached Image

Control arms move up and down with no resistance at all when the anti roll bar
is not attached. Got delrin bushings for the roll bar but it adds a lot of resistance
to moving the control arm.

Adding a new ball joint and nut using the special tool. I got the old nuts off by
cutting most of the way through them with a dremel tool, being careful not to
touch the control arm itself. Then used a 28 inch pipe wrench. It helps to try
the pipe wrench from different angles around the nut. If you are willing to sacrifice
the nut, it is not too hard to get it off without the special tool, took me maybe 10
minutes per side. I don't see any easy way to torque the new one on to 194 ft/lbs
(IIRC) without the special tool or some home brewed equivalent. $10 per new
nut and $50 for the tool will save you a lot of irritation if you have the dough.

Attached Image

Added new Bilstein shocks to early 911 struts.

Attached Image

The first wheels and tires on this car since November 2007!!!

Attached Image

Shouldn't be more than a few years now until its a driver again.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

John
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