Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

20 Pages V « < 10 11 12 13 14 > »   
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914...
FourBlades
post May 4 2009, 07:56 PM
Post #221


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States




Hey Bryan,

Those are 16x6 wheels with 205/50 R16 tires (Kumhos).

I have the same size for the rears.

Looks like the fronts will fit, we'll see with the rears.

John



User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 5 2009, 07:13 PM
Post #222


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



Hey Brian from Orlando, PM me when you will be in the area, you are welcome
to come over.

I painted my engine bay with eastwood silver rust encapsulator. I like the
way it looks and may just leave it this way. I could also paint it body color,
what do people think? I still have to paint the inside of the sail panels.

Attached Image

I also thought I would show the lazy SOB way to mount your front anti sway
bar. To get access to the lowest bolt on the bushing retainer, you have to cut
away a little piece of the inside of the gas tank area. Most people cut a slot
so that the backup nut plate can fit down to the lowest bolt. Because I welded
a large reinforcing plate to the outside of the fender well I was just using washers
and nuts on the inside. I already had my 1 inch hole saw out to cut the holes
for the anti roll bar itself, so I used it to cut a hole to access the lowest nut.
Very easy.

Attached Image

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Lou W
post May 5 2009, 08:23 PM
Post #223


"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass......
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,109
Joined: 9-May 04
From: Roseburg, OR.
Member No.: 2,039
Region Association: Spain



QUOTE(FourBlades @ May 5 2009, 06:13 PM) *
Hey Brian from Orlando, PM me when you will be in the area, you are welcome
to come over.

I painted my engine bay with eastwood silver rust encapsulator. I like the
way it looks and may just leave it this way. I could also paint it body color,
what do people think? I still have to paint the inside of the sail panels.

John


You'll have to paint over the rust encapsulator, it turns yellowish if you don't. Stuff works great, used it on my car.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 5 2009, 09:13 PM
Post #224


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States




I did not know that, Lou, thanks for telling me. I guess it will get Adriatic Blue
like the rest of the car. I have noticed that the silver rust encapsulator is pretty
easy to mark if you scrape a piece of metal over it.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
charliew
post May 6 2009, 11:57 AM
Post #225


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,363
Joined: 31-July 07
From: Crawford, TX.
Member No.: 7,958



I also painted a vw rear suspension with the silver por 15 and it would come off on me and kinda leave a dull mark. Alot of silver paints are like the paint that is used on the big propane tanks, in that it is easy to rub off on you, but it won't all come off it's just the way the paint is. Kinda crappy but thats the way the paint is made. Also be sure to check how to top coat the eastwood paint to make the next coat adhear good, On the por 15 you have to use a tiecoat primer over por15 to get other paints to stick. Por 15 is also not uv resistant, it turns all kinds of funny shades in the sun. Kinda like oil on water look.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 6 2009, 02:03 PM
Post #226


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States




Charlie,

The eastwood paint claims to be UV resistant. Have not tested that
myself. It is also compatible with a lot of different top coats. I have put my
catalyzed enamel over it and it seems to stick well. I wish it was harder and
more mark resistant because I like the silver look.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MDG
post May 6 2009, 02:06 PM
Post #227


Wolf in wolf's clothing.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,652
Joined: 3-February 09
From: Toronto
Member No.: 10,018
Region Association: None



The Adriatic is looking fantastic, John. I lost the thread but I was wondering how you made out on the door gap issue? Hope it worked out.

mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 6 2009, 04:20 PM
Post #228


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States




I got a lot of good suggestions on what to do about it. I guess I chickened out.
If I can get the door glass to seal well and the car aligns ok then I don't want
to do anything drastic to it. It either of those don't work I may take it a local
place with a frame machine and see what they can do.

I am afraid to make it worse given my lack of experience.

Worst case, I cut off the longs and redo them paying much more attention
to lining up the door and windshield. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

It would not take nearly as long if I did it again...but that is a last resort.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 31 2009, 09:28 PM
Post #229


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



How to ruin a door lock cylinder PO stye:

Attached Image

Was working on rekeying all my locks, so I took the door cylinder out.

Hmm, no wonder this door handle was screwed up.

Attached Image

The PO used a bolt that was too long and it dug a hole in the cylinder. Somewhere
along the way all the wafers for the tumblers got bent over. The long bolt was
screwed in there tight. The shorter bolt is the correct length (I believe).

Fortunately, I have a whole set of new cylinders I got from MarkB, so I just
replaced the damaged cylinder.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post May 31 2009, 09:39 PM
Post #230


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



I've been working on reassembling the car. I got the passenger door put back
together and on the car. The glass actually fits pretty well when the window is
rolled up. The targa top also fits easily so I think the windshield frame to targa
bar gap is ok. Maybe the door gap issue is just sheet metal and not warped
car... (fingers crossed smiley).

I am working on the wiring harness. I unwrapped and cleaned it section by
section using electrical parts cleaner (spray can). I rewrapped it with PVC
electrical tape. I know this is not standard, but I hope it lasts better than the
cloth tape, that was rotting and falling apart.

I am going to try assembling the dash, switches, guages, heater controls and
make all the wiring harness connections off the car and then put the whole
thing in as one unit. This would be easier than making all the connections
lying on the floor of the car and reaching up under the dash. Not sure this
will work, but if it does it will be much easier and I can do it inside with AC.

Here is my neatly organized dash project.

Attached Image

I have been cleaning and painting all the little pieces which is very time
consuming but is coming along. Lots of people have been helping me out
with parts that were missing from this car. I keep thinking I have everything
unil I get to the next section...

John

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
strawman
post Jun 1 2009, 09:07 PM
Post #231


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 885
Joined: 25-January 08
From: Los Osos, CA
Member No.: 8,624
Region Association: Central California



Hi John --

Keep up the good work! You're an inspiration to me and my basket case project. I can't wait to get to reassembly stage...

Geoff
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post Jun 1 2009, 09:47 PM
Post #232


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States




Geoff,

Just keep plugging a little every week. It is a real rush when
you stop taking stuff off the car and start putting it back.

Every new bit you put on feels great.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post Jun 10 2009, 08:36 PM
Post #233


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



Passenger door glass looks like it will seal ok once I get all the new rubber put
on. Maybe the narrow door gap is just sheet metal related. :wishful thinking smiley:

Attached Image

Got my dash set up based on advice from the world members.

Attached Image

Dash installed, windshield not glued in yet, nor is dash to windshield seal.
It looks freaking cool to have a dash and instruments.

Attached Image

It took me a long time to get here because the wiring harness had me intimidated
for a while. I hope I wired the switches and instruments right. Not even sure the
instruments or relays work. Debugging this should be real fun.

Started fishing the front end wiring harness.

Attached Image

Next I will put in the steering and do a rough alignment. I could actually get
it off jackstands then and onto its own wheels. I know it is sacrilege to say that
about a 914 so please don't tell anyone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
degreeoff
post Jun 10 2009, 09:12 PM
Post #234


I like big butts and I can not lie!
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,622
Joined: 9-February 03
From: Booowieeee MD (near DC)
Member No.: 275
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shocked[1].gif) she's a beauty man looks great!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ConeDodger
post Jun 11 2009, 08:38 AM
Post #235


Apex killer!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 23,855
Joined: 31-December 04
From: Tahoe Area
Member No.: 3,380
Region Association: Northern California



Very nice John... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jc914
post Jun 11 2009, 07:41 PM
Post #236


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 289
Joined: 15-September 08
From: Miami, Florida
Member No.: 9,548
Region Association: South East States



GREAT JOB AGAIN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Wilhelm
post Jun 11 2009, 07:55 PM
Post #237


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 408
Joined: 7-September 07
From: Hooterville, OR
Member No.: 8,088
Region Association: None



Great Job! Where do you get the time? I've done nothing substantial for a month!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post Jul 26 2009, 07:05 PM
Post #238


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



Show us your tit!

Attached Image

At least it has a nice, flaky fog light cover.

Attached Image

A pretty rusty back.

Attached Image

Some serious BFH work was required. Cut off all the old bolts. Derusted and
painted the inside.

Attached Image

It looks pretty scruffy but is passable for a hot rod. I am too over budget at this
point to rechrome it. I just want to get it running, and then I can tweak it more.

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jonferns
post Jul 26 2009, 07:17 PM
Post #239


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,081
Joined: 29-March 07
From: New Jersey
Member No.: 7,631
Region Association: North East States



Looking good John. Maybe repaint the bumper with that chrome paint that someone else on here used for their bumper. I forget the manufacturer, but its a cheap alternative to getting it rechromed and it looks nice.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
FourBlades
post Jul 26 2009, 07:35 PM
Post #240


From Wreck to Rockin
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,056
Joined: 3-December 07
From: Brevard, FL
Member No.: 8,414
Region Association: South East States



Putting in the Engman fuse panel. This is a really nicely made piece and it is pretty
easy to put in. It took less than an hour altogether. All the wiring issue threads
convinced me this was a must have upgrade. First push the relays off the board.
Then label the first row of wires with the provided stickers.

Attached Image

Pulled off the first row of wires and labeled the second row. The key is to work
carefully and systematically, but it really is not hard. You can tell which way
the boards go from looking at which terminals are double and which are single.
Notice the first two on the right have two sets of terminals. None of my second
set of terminals had anything plugged in to it, I wonder if these are for options?

Attached Image

Pull off the second row of wires.

Attached Image

Tested each relay while I had them handy. Touching the terminals with a 9v
battery you should here a clicking sound. The two terminals in question are
those closest to the pin that is by itself. This does not guarantee the relay will
work, but if it does not click, then the relay is bad.

Attached Image

Start putting on the second row of wires first.

Attached Image

To get the first row of wires on I had to untangle and reroute some of the wires.
I had to untangle the relay wires as well. At first it looked like they would not
all reach but with a little fiddling around you see there is more than enough wire
length. Just one relay left to put in.

Attached Image

Put the panel in place. It looks backwards and maybe it is, but it fits better this
way with how I installed my wiring harness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Attached Image

I hope to finish up the last few wiring connections around the car and put in a
battery soon.

John

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

20 Pages V « < 10 11 12 13 14 > » 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 29th December 2024 - 02:29 AM