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> Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914...
Wilhelm
post Jun 11 2009, 07:55 PM
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Great Job! Where do you get the time? I've done nothing substantial for a month!
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FourBlades
post Jul 26 2009, 07:05 PM
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Show us your tit!

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At least it has a nice, flaky fog light cover.

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A pretty rusty back.

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Some serious BFH work was required. Cut off all the old bolts. Derusted and
painted the inside.

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It looks pretty scruffy but is passable for a hot rod. I am too over budget at this
point to rechrome it. I just want to get it running, and then I can tweak it more.

John
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jonferns
post Jul 26 2009, 07:17 PM
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Looking good John. Maybe repaint the bumper with that chrome paint that someone else on here used for their bumper. I forget the manufacturer, but its a cheap alternative to getting it rechromed and it looks nice.
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FourBlades
post Jul 26 2009, 07:35 PM
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Putting in the Engman fuse panel. This is a really nicely made piece and it is pretty
easy to put in. It took less than an hour altogether. All the wiring issue threads
convinced me this was a must have upgrade. First push the relays off the board.
Then label the first row of wires with the provided stickers.

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Pulled off the first row of wires and labeled the second row. The key is to work
carefully and systematically, but it really is not hard. You can tell which way
the boards go from looking at which terminals are double and which are single.
Notice the first two on the right have two sets of terminals. None of my second
set of terminals had anything plugged in to it, I wonder if these are for options?

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Pull off the second row of wires.

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Tested each relay while I had them handy. Touching the terminals with a 9v
battery you should here a clicking sound. The two terminals in question are
those closest to the pin that is by itself. This does not guarantee the relay will
work, but if it does not click, then the relay is bad.

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Start putting on the second row of wires first.

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To get the first row of wires on I had to untangle and reroute some of the wires.
I had to untangle the relay wires as well. At first it looked like they would not
all reach but with a little fiddling around you see there is more than enough wire
length. Just one relay left to put in.

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Put the panel in place. It looks backwards and maybe it is, but it fits better this
way with how I installed my wiring harness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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I hope to finish up the last few wiring connections around the car and put in a
battery soon.

John

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sixnotfour
post Jul 26 2009, 08:14 PM
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Great Job !!


IMSAIMSAIMSA
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FourBlades
post Jul 27 2009, 07:00 PM
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I here ya man, I am anxious to get back to the IMSA car...

John
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netbanshee
post Jul 27 2009, 10:56 PM
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John,

Excellent job so far! I only happened upon this thread now, but have definitely given it a good once over. Many a man would have gotten frustrated with the amount of work you had ahead of you.

And that said, you're so close. I'm looking forward to the next few weeks / months.

I did a decent restore job with my pops that ended somewhat tragically, but in the end, I found myself with a fine 70 914. Good work, no matter what the circumstances, pays off in the end.

Flickr reference:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/netbanshee/sets/1076179/

Cheers,
Sean
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FourBlades
post Jul 28 2009, 07:22 AM
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Hey thanks Sean. I really enjoyed the welding and metal work. I am not so
fond of all the fiddling around with reassembling everything.

The fire you suffered totally sucks. You were making great progress.

That looks like a sweet 1970 914 though.

John

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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FourBlades
post Aug 1 2009, 07:58 PM
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I spent all day fixing my rear trunk hinges and installing a camp 914 shock
kit. The shock kit is excellent and a piece of cake to install. The trunk hinges
were a pain because one was broken off and the other had the shoulder bolt
broken off in it. I only had one replacement shoulder bolt so I found a 10.9
bolt from my stash that had the right amount of shoulder and threads.

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Welded a thick washer to the replacement trunk hinge mounting thingee.
The bolt will get trimmed to length later. Here is how this is going to work.

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Welded the lock nut to the back of the thingee so that I did not have to get
a wrench back there to hold it. Melted the nylon insert unfortunately. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

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Sanded off the paint in the weld area using a detail sander. This is slow but easy
to control and not as messy as a wire wheel.

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I located the position for the new thingee by finding the old spot welds. I also
compared it by eye to the other side. This is not that hard and my trunk lid fit
and closes well.
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FourBlades
post Aug 1 2009, 08:21 PM
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Welded the replacement thingee on. I think my approach will be stronger than
the stock shoulder bolt, which necks down to an m8 or so, whereas I am using
an m12 through its whole length. Greased all the moving parts of both hinges
with white lithium grease.

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Drilled out and retapped the other side hinge. I also sanded the paint off and
welded the edges of the hinge mount to prevent it from breaking off down the
road. Down the road, get it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

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More pictures and incredibly bad humor tomorrow. Must be the effects of too
much welding smoke, phosgene gas, and zinc fumes.

John
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my928s4
post Aug 1 2009, 08:55 PM
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John

As always great progress, yours is much nearer being on the road than mine!

Like you my trunk hinge mounts were toast, any reason why you did not go with the JWest Pivots?

Cheers
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FourBlades
post Aug 2 2009, 10:10 AM
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Hey John, I did not know Jwest had pivots for the rear trunk. I bought the
replacement stock parts a long time ago. When I realized yesterday I was
short one shoulder bolt I just decided to improvise rather than stop working
and wait to order more parts. I am kind of in get it on the road ASAP mode
now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

John
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FourBlades
post Aug 19 2009, 08:06 PM
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Opened up the transmission that came with the car so Dr. Evil can see if it looks
ok to rebuild at the Atlanta clinic. The box was covered in thick, nasty oil that had
to be chipped off, but inside it looks really good to me. Of course, I have only
the faintest idea what to look for.

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Getting it apart and putting it back together was pretty simple following the
instructions on the doctor's web pages.

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When you think of all the precisely machined and hardened parts and all the
little bearings and polished shafts in there it is a pretty amazing piece of
engineering. The tail cone looks like it will weigh 10 pounds but it is only
2 pounds or so, I guess it is magnesium. Not bad for a 40 year old design.
You can't help but be impressed with the quality of the parts.

John
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FourBlades
post Aug 19 2009, 08:10 PM
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More pictures of the transmission.

Attached Image

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Attached Image

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That is it for now.

John
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bcheney
post Aug 19 2009, 09:05 PM
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John,

You are doing a great job on that teener!!...I would love to stop by and see you. I hope to be in Melbourne soon. I"ll give you a call.
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FourBlades
post Aug 21 2009, 02:46 PM
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Brian,

Sounds good, pick a date and time and PM me. I should be home this
weekend.

Bring your teener if it is drivable...

John
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993inNC
post Aug 21 2009, 06:14 PM
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Got to say, being new both here and back into the 914 thing after 20 years of not having one...........and being new to the welding/resto thing, I do believe you may be my newest hero. Amazing undertaking no less in the oppressive heat of florida! I'm going to feel like a complete puss now for doing hopefully what turns out to be a fraction of what you had to do, but on a lift in a climate controlled garage.

So to you sir (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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FourBlades
post Aug 21 2009, 10:15 PM
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Thanks man, I have learned from the masters on this board, nothing else like
it anywhere.

I've wanted to do this for so long I decided not to let any practical considerations
get in the way, and usually things have worked out. That and I jump in the pool
every 30 minutes or so when it is hot.

I dream of working in AC and considered converting my dining room into a
workshop. I have had my Raby/McMark 2270 engine sitting in my bedroom
for 6 months but taking over the dining room was the limit for my wife so
I've had to embrace the sweat...

John
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carr914
post Aug 22 2009, 04:09 AM
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QUOTE(FourBlades @ Aug 21 2009, 04:46 PM) *

Brian,

Bring your teener if it is drivable...



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


John, Looking good, hopefully it will road worthy soon, so your attention can go to the IMSA car

T.C.
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993inNC
post Aug 22 2009, 07:02 AM
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QUOTE(FourBlades @ Aug 22 2009, 12:15 AM) *

Thanks man, I have learned from the masters on this board, nothing else like
it anywhere.

I've wanted to do this for so long I decided not to let any practical considerations
get in the way, and usually things have worked out. That and I jump in the pool
every 30 minutes or so when it is hot.

I dream of working in AC and considered converting my dining room into a
workshop. I have had my Raby/McMark 2270 engine sitting in my bedroom
for 6 months but taking over the dining room was the limit for my wife so
I've had to embrace the sweat...

John


You've got nerve brother I'll give you that! My wife is pretty forgiving, but never would I get away with storing parts in the house, wow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
I'm looking forward to jumping into mine. I don't think I'll get to my newly found rust until next year's summer season. I want to get mine back into a driveable condition first with everything working so I know everything works before I completely strip it down to bare bones.
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