Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914... Options

[FourBlades]

Welded in reinforcements for shoulder harnesses. I placed these an inch below
shoulder level according to the directions from G-force. I also looked at Schroth's
excellent guide to installing harnesses (on their website).



Not totally sure about running the belts through the head rest supports. They
feel ok when belted up. I was worried they would pinch at the neck but they
feel like they sit in the right place when worn.



These seats came from Camp 914. They are very comfortable and well made
and were cheaper than listed on their website.



I am going to the Atlanta tranny clinic with Dr. Evil. You could really take that
statement the wrong way if you did not know the context. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

John

[FourBlades]

So I was wondering if my fuel tank really needed to be refurbed or if it was good
enough as is. It looks pretty much cherry on the outside (not the one that came
with my car, that one has rust through holes). Shaking it made sounds like rust
flakes rattling around. Dumping out and vacuuming up the rust
flakes yielded this pile:



Hmmm, maybe I do need to redo it. Liberally sprayed freeze off on both nipples
(yes this is 914 world and not THAT forum). Both nipple tubes were basically
packed solid with rust. Some PO also used steel washers on the nipples. The
filter sock was in place and not looking too bad.



Hard to see it but the tube is full of packed in rust flakes and dust. I would not
have gotten much fuel out or back into the tank through these.



One nut did not want to come off easily, and left aluminum bonded to the
steel threads. This ruined one of the nuts, but luckily I ordered new ones
from AA. I would not be surprised if you ruin both nuts trying to remove
them, so get new ones before you start.



Not having a die this size, I rinsed the tank out with warm soapy water and
then heated the offending threads with MAPP. I think the different expansion
rates of aluminum and steel did the trick because I was able to pick all the
aluminum out of the threads cleanly after that with an awl.

I used the Eastwood fuel tank kit to derust and recoat the tank. Pretty easy
but messy and involves lots of nasty chemicals. Pictures tomorrow once it dries.

So to recap, I twisted off both nuts, and broke one in the process, then sprayed
freeze off on both nipples, then burnt one nipple with a torch. And my wife
complains that 914 work is boring...

John

[McMark]

Nice save! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[FourBlades]

Inside of gas tank after using Eastwood kit. The final coat is a thick, white
liquid that hardens to a rubbery consistency overnight.



Putting in the windshield I must not have cleaned it enough or did not get a good
suction on the glass with the gripper because the glass dropped off and broke.



I had another windshield on hand, so being more careful the second time I lined
it up using tape lines and stuck it into the butyl tape. Not too hard, but next time
I would put the butyl tape right up to the inside edge of the windshield lip.
Otherwise it squishes out around the edge of the windshield more than it
probably should.

[FourBlades]

Windshield and trim in. Need to find the corner clips.



Rear windshield installation is a piece of cake compared to the front. Again, put
the butyl tape right on the inside edge of the lip so it does not squish out the sides.



John

[FourBlades]

Went to the Evil Werks transmission clinic. Taking apart the 901 is surpisingly
easy, and of course, assembly is the reverse of disassembly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



Start looking for pieces that fit and slide them on.



Keep going, this looks like it might belong here.



Only a few unimportant looking parts were left over.



Nearly done, just need to add the cod piece.



Sweet. Now it just needs an engine.

John

[FourBlades]

There comes a time in every restoration when your engine must find a transmission to mate with and leave the security of the living room.



Now I just need to figure out how to wire it up, set timing, synch the carbs, and
maybe attach a car to it.



John

[steveherman]

HOLY CRAP!
I can wait to come up there.
that is awesome and completely insane.
there is no way i could fathom that amount of work.

[914Tom]

hi john,

are this carbs dellorto or weber ?

TOM

(my wife will def. KILL me if i try to get the motor in the living room, or even the house)

[FourBlades]

Tom,

Those are EMPI copies of Webers that I got from Jake Raby. They are really
nicely made and supposed to fix some problems with the old Webers.

Steve,

Come on over and bring some wrenches, got a lot of work left to do.

John

[carr914]

John, I didn't know that you had a Raby/McMark, much less have it in the Living Room (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

T.C.

[Gint]

(my wife will def. KILL me if i try to get the motor in the living room, or even the house)

My wife is used to it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Steve,

Come on over and bring some wrenches, got a lot of work left to do.

Careful, you'll scare the poor guy off.

Killer progress. Getting closer all the time. Expect to be driving by Spring? Not that that matters in Florida.

[FourBlades]

Hauling the engine out of the house.



Getting ready to stuff it back in the car.



Using a motorcycle jack to lift it up.



Using a second jack to lift the transmission. I ended up taking the transmission
mounts off the car and put them on the transmission. Then lifted the transmission
into place and bolted the mounts back onto the car. Because of the angle of the
mounting bolts, I could not just lift the transmission straight up.



Not sure this is the concours way to do it, but it worked for me.

[FourBlades]

Engine is almost in there.



Engine is bolted in!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Hooked up the shift rods and gear shift lever. Also put in all new bushings.



Still have to connect the fuel lines and the other controls. I think its time to stop
milking this restoration and gitter done.

John

[carr914]

Damn John, you and that dog are quick workers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

It looks like the nuts are not on your control arm threads - I'd hate for you to lose your suspension the 1st trip around the block.

T.C.

[FourBlades]

TC,

She is a special, German service dog, bred for the ability to read metric sizes.

Thanks for pointing out the missing nuts. Those are a special, thin locking nut
I believe, I must have them somewhere...

Speaking of nuts, how much thread do you need to have sticking out of the
wheel for your lug nuts to grip? I am worried by wheel studs are too short.
I have some steel nuts and the thread only goes about half way into the nuts.

John

[sean_v8_914]

1.5 x thread dia

[FourBlades]

Front bumper with Auto Atlanta front fiberglass valence. This part comes with nice
gloss gel coat and fit perfectly right off the bat. George let me buy the first one
they received when I was at the transmission clinic. The back of this valence
is smoother than the front of the other fiberglass one I bought on ebay. It would
probably fit even better if my front bumper had not been dented extensively
and then straightened by me with a BFG.



Rear bumper with my new license plate! Whoo hoo! It took me about 18 months
to get a clear title and registration for this car. The DAPO lost the title and jerked
me around about it for about 12 months, then moved out of state. What a freaking
douche. I really need to go back and edit post #1 to tell the real story of this idiot
and his BS lies. I'll tell ya how I took care of the title problem sometime, it is
really not that hard, just cost about $500.



John

[FourBlades]

Put in the tangerine racing exhaust and headers. These parts are like a work of
art. I had them ceramic coated silver and they just look awesome.



You can see the muffler in the previous post. I wanted the twin tips and will have
to adjust my rear valence to fit them. I also put in my drive shafts. Here is a tip:
put in the drive shafts before putting in the shift rod and exhaust. I did mine in the
wrong order and had to pull them off and put them on again.



I could stare at those headers all day.

Now I am on turkey duty because my wife works all day today. It is much easier
to prepare a turkey than to rebuilt CV joints on your drive shafts. That must be
the messiest job on a 914. I ended up throwing away the shirt I was wearing that
day. I had to go to 4 autoparts stores before I found one with the proper moly
grease, so don't assume it is easy to get. The parts geeks told me to just buy new
axles assemblies because they are like $70 for most new cars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Yeah,
but how much is a new computer for your beemer i-drive system???

John

[MDG]

Excellent, John!!

Every time I look at this thread I'm reminded of how much I love Adriatic Blue.

and Happy Thanksgiving!

mike