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> Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914...
dlee6204
post Mar 28 2010, 07:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The car looks AWESOME!
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McMark
post Mar 28 2010, 08:26 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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RiqueMar
post Mar 29 2010, 08:43 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 28 2010, 07:26 PM) *



So I guess this means we will see you out here for WCR, right? Yeah, thats what I thought! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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watsonrx13
post Mar 30 2010, 05:07 AM
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Great job John.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

-- Rob
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FourBlades
post Mar 30 2010, 08:38 PM
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QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Mar 29 2010, 07:43 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 28 2010, 07:26 PM) *



So I guess this means we will see you out here for WCR, right? Yeah, thats what I thought! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)


I would love to do that but it would be even crazier than restoring the car in
the first place.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

John
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arkitect
post Mar 30 2010, 10:30 PM
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John,
Cool job, you are definitely determined. I am currently working on a 70 teener project with its share of rust issues.

I like your roll over wood device you made to work on the floor pan. Been thinking of making a rotieserie (sp?) but don't know with the long damage would cause additional problems from spinning it. With a roll over frame probably put a lot less stress on the body.

Hopefully I can achieve the same level of success as you.

Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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FourBlades
post Apr 1 2010, 06:48 PM
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I am having a problem with my new 80 PSI VDO oil pressure gauge. I have the
matching 80 PSI sender with two terminals. I have the sender grounded. I have
the gauge grounded. I have switched power to the gauge. I have tried both of the
terminals on the sender. Either one causes the gauge to bury the needle past
80 PSI and never come back until I disconnect everything. So is this gauge or
sended just f-ed up? I think the sender is reading 245 ohms with the engine off,
did not get a reading with it running. I used the 4500 PSI grease gun extension.
What am I doing wrong?

I also measured each of the barrels of my carbs with a synchronometer. With
the car warmed up and a steady 1100 rpm idle, each barrel reads 11 mystery
units steady. I am guessing Blake balanced these before sending them to me
from Jake's. I need to start dinking with my cross bar linkage next.

I smell a sweet exhaust smell around the car after idling for a while. I think
this means it is running rich, right?

John

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FourBlades
post Apr 3 2010, 06:17 PM
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No one has any idea why my oil pressure gauge is not working? Do I need to
ground the gauge and the sender to the same place? Some gauges measure
the voltage difference in a way that requires all the grounds to be at the same
level.

Drove the car with a friend today and had a great time. I think the engine is
making more power the more I drive it and follow the break in procedure of
varying the RPM as much as possible.

John
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silver74insocal
post Apr 3 2010, 08:30 PM
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if you measure the continuity between the 2 grounds and you see a short, there is no difference in them. seems weird to me that both the gauge and the sender are grounded, check the wiring diagram that came with the system (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
if not point me to it on the internet and we ll get it figured out. Dave
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FourBlades
post Apr 13 2010, 07:44 PM
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My engine was not making the kind of power I expected it should. Someone
suggested I try pulling each plug wire one by one to make sure all 4 cylinders
were firing. I am thinking, yeah right, but sure as hell only 2 cylinders were
firing, and on the same side of the car!!! The engine has about the same power
on 2 cylinders as my stock 1.8 has on 4...

I read on the world about someone having the same problem, where one side of
their engine was firing and the other wasn't. They switched their carbs
from one side to the other and the problem moved from one side of the engine
to the other. I spent an hour or so this evening doing the same thing and
had the same result!!!

Now the other side of my engine is firing and sounding pretty good while
the formerly working side is doing nothing.

To me, this means the problem is a clogged carb. I pulled some of the jets
and sprayed liberal carb cleaner everywhere but still got nothing.

Tomorrow I will take the whole carb apart and clean it. I noticed the float
bowl area was coated with some kind of white, spongy crap. These carbs
sat for 12 months after being test run, so I guess there is varnish
or residue somewhere in there that keeps them from flowing any fuel during
idle and part throttle application.

The accelerator pumps do shoot fuel on WOT so some fuel is getting in
there.

Anyone have any tips on how to clean this type of carb and which passages
must be clogged to get no fire at all in the two cylinders? I have two weber
books but you all must know some good tips.

Thanks...John
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914Tom
post Apr 14 2010, 12:41 AM
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hi john,

before you fiddle with the carb.
when your car is running for a while, take the sparkplug on the 'not firing' side out and look at it.
if wet, i think you should better interchange the sparkplug's and wires, maybe you have a ignition issue ?!
have you look the distributor cap, is the inside OK, maybe the contacts ar rotten out or the are green, this means also no spark ?

my 2c about, 1 hope to get my teener running next summer..

TOM
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FourBlades
post Apr 14 2010, 03:33 AM
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Tom,

I'll check all those things out, I did not think of that.

John
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ChrisFoley
post Apr 14 2010, 05:07 AM
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Maybe a stuck float in the carb that isn't working.
Better stuck closed than open though.
Weird that it lets enough fuel in to operate the pump jets but doesn't flow freely.
You can usually fix a stuck float with the carb in place. Unscrew the top plate and lift it up so you can see/feel that the float moves up and down, then screw it back down and re-test.
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FourBlades
post Apr 14 2010, 08:25 AM
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Chris,

I'll check the float valve out. That is a good idea. I pulled out all the jets and
unclogged them. The big ones on the top were righteously clogged but the
others looked ok. Still nothing.

I wonder if just enough fuel bleeds by the float valve to work the accelerator pump occasionally but not enough to get siphoned constantly into the venturi?

I think the float valve inlet is mostly clogged.

John
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McMark
post Apr 14 2010, 09:51 AM
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You should probably take both apart and clean them. If there's corrosion crap that clogged up one, chances are the other one is possible as well. Better to put in a few hours now, and avoid days of headaches later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Get a couple of tinfoil roasting pans from the grocery store and you have a nice clean place to put all the little parts as you work. You just need to pull all the jets out and the cover off and spend some time squirting carb cleaner down all the jets and orifices.
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FourBlades
post Apr 14 2010, 11:21 AM
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I am going to go through both carbs one at a time as you suggest. It is really
rather surprising that one is working and the other is not.

John
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FourBlades
post Apr 16 2010, 12:38 PM
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Got both carbs working and went for a short drive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

OMG....grin meter is pegged. This is one powerful motor...

Gonna go through the other carb now and get it balanced.

John
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McMark
post Apr 16 2010, 01:03 PM
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SWEEEET!
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914Tom
post Apr 17 2010, 12:55 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Apr 16 2010, 09:03 PM) *

SWEEEET!


congratulation.
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FourBlades
post Apr 24 2010, 02:40 PM
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Finally had time to go through both carbs completely. I found that the float on
the side that was idling better was set at 1 mm instead of 11!!! The other carb
was not idling well most of the time until I corrected this. The carb with the
high float was running rich and preventing the other carb from idling at all
unless I set the idle really high. Setting the float levels of both carbs to 11
allowed them to both idle at the same RPM.

I also cleaned and blew out all the passages in both carbs, put in new gaskets,
and reset all the screws to the recommended starting points. I am learning a lot
about IDFs, I think I took the one apart about 3 times before I found the problem
was really with the carb I thought was working better. If the carbs had worked
perfectly out of the box I would not have learned anything at all about them so
it was worth all the fooling around.

Now the car idles much better and pulls even harder.

There is a little flat spot between idling and open throttle, but not bad. One it gets
on the open throttle it pulls very strong. I uploaded another video. It is not great
but it gives some idea how it sounds.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnbSE7vNqJ4


John
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