Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914... |
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Starting a 1973 restoration, Restoring a left for dead $500 914... |
dlee6204 |
Mar 28 2010, 07:59 PM
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#321
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The car looks AWESOME!
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McMark |
Mar 28 2010, 08:26 PM
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#322
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
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RiqueMar |
Mar 29 2010, 08:43 PM
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#323
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Enrique Allen Mar Group: Members Posts: 2,179 Joined: 28-August 08 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 9,478 Region Association: Southern California |
So I guess this means we will see you out here for WCR, right? Yeah, thats what I thought! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) |
watsonrx13 |
Mar 30 2010, 05:07 AM
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#324
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,735 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
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FourBlades |
Mar 30 2010, 08:38 PM
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#325
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
So I guess this means we will see you out here for WCR, right? Yeah, thats what I thought! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) I would love to do that but it would be even crazier than restoring the car in the first place. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) John |
arkitect |
Mar 30 2010, 10:30 PM
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#326
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 617 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Stockton, CA Member No.: 11,426 Region Association: None |
John,
Cool job, you are definitely determined. I am currently working on a 70 teener project with its share of rust issues. I like your roll over wood device you made to work on the floor pan. Been thinking of making a rotieserie (sp?) but don't know with the long damage would cause additional problems from spinning it. With a roll over frame probably put a lot less stress on the body. Hopefully I can achieve the same level of success as you. Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
FourBlades |
Apr 1 2010, 06:48 PM
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#327
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
I am having a problem with my new 80 PSI VDO oil pressure gauge. I have the matching 80 PSI sender with two terminals. I have the sender grounded. I have the gauge grounded. I have switched power to the gauge. I have tried both of the terminals on the sender. Either one causes the gauge to bury the needle past 80 PSI and never come back until I disconnect everything. So is this gauge or sended just f-ed up? I think the sender is reading 245 ohms with the engine off, did not get a reading with it running. I used the 4500 PSI grease gun extension. What am I doing wrong? I also measured each of the barrels of my carbs with a synchronometer. With the car warmed up and a steady 1100 rpm idle, each barrel reads 11 mystery units steady. I am guessing Blake balanced these before sending them to me from Jake's. I need to start dinking with my cross bar linkage next. I smell a sweet exhaust smell around the car after idling for a while. I think this means it is running rich, right? John |
FourBlades |
Apr 3 2010, 06:17 PM
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#328
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
No one has any idea why my oil pressure gauge is not working? Do I need to ground the gauge and the sender to the same place? Some gauges measure the voltage difference in a way that requires all the grounds to be at the same level. Drove the car with a friend today and had a great time. I think the engine is making more power the more I drive it and follow the break in procedure of varying the RPM as much as possible. John |
silver74insocal |
Apr 3 2010, 08:30 PM
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#329
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 736 Joined: 26-November 09 From: rancho cucamonga Member No.: 11,073 Region Association: Southern California |
if you measure the continuity between the 2 grounds and you see a short, there is no difference in them. seems weird to me that both the gauge and the sender are grounded, check the wiring diagram that came with the system (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
if not point me to it on the internet and we ll get it figured out. Dave |
FourBlades |
Apr 13 2010, 07:44 PM
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#330
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
My engine was not making the kind of power I expected it should. Someone suggested I try pulling each plug wire one by one to make sure all 4 cylinders were firing. I am thinking, yeah right, but sure as hell only 2 cylinders were firing, and on the same side of the car!!! The engine has about the same power on 2 cylinders as my stock 1.8 has on 4... I read on the world about someone having the same problem, where one side of their engine was firing and the other wasn't. They switched their carbs from one side to the other and the problem moved from one side of the engine to the other. I spent an hour or so this evening doing the same thing and had the same result!!! Now the other side of my engine is firing and sounding pretty good while the formerly working side is doing nothing. To me, this means the problem is a clogged carb. I pulled some of the jets and sprayed liberal carb cleaner everywhere but still got nothing. Tomorrow I will take the whole carb apart and clean it. I noticed the float bowl area was coated with some kind of white, spongy crap. These carbs sat for 12 months after being test run, so I guess there is varnish or residue somewhere in there that keeps them from flowing any fuel during idle and part throttle application. The accelerator pumps do shoot fuel on WOT so some fuel is getting in there. Anyone have any tips on how to clean this type of carb and which passages must be clogged to get no fire at all in the two cylinders? I have two weber books but you all must know some good tips. Thanks...John |
914Tom |
Apr 14 2010, 12:41 AM
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#331
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Member Group: Members Posts: 122 Joined: 11-February 07 From: Germany Member No.: 7,526 |
hi john,
before you fiddle with the carb. when your car is running for a while, take the sparkplug on the 'not firing' side out and look at it. if wet, i think you should better interchange the sparkplug's and wires, maybe you have a ignition issue ?! have you look the distributor cap, is the inside OK, maybe the contacts ar rotten out or the are green, this means also no spark ? my 2c about, 1 hope to get my teener running next summer.. TOM |
FourBlades |
Apr 14 2010, 03:33 AM
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#332
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
Tom, I'll check all those things out, I did not think of that. John |
ChrisFoley |
Apr 14 2010, 05:07 AM
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#333
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,968 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
Maybe a stuck float in the carb that isn't working.
Better stuck closed than open though. Weird that it lets enough fuel in to operate the pump jets but doesn't flow freely. You can usually fix a stuck float with the carb in place. Unscrew the top plate and lift it up so you can see/feel that the float moves up and down, then screw it back down and re-test. |
FourBlades |
Apr 14 2010, 08:25 AM
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#334
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
Chris, I'll check the float valve out. That is a good idea. I pulled out all the jets and unclogged them. The big ones on the top were righteously clogged but the others looked ok. Still nothing. I wonder if just enough fuel bleeds by the float valve to work the accelerator pump occasionally but not enough to get siphoned constantly into the venturi? I think the float valve inlet is mostly clogged. John |
McMark |
Apr 14 2010, 09:51 AM
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#335
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
You should probably take both apart and clean them. If there's corrosion crap that clogged up one, chances are the other one is possible as well. Better to put in a few hours now, and avoid days of headaches later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
Get a couple of tinfoil roasting pans from the grocery store and you have a nice clean place to put all the little parts as you work. You just need to pull all the jets out and the cover off and spend some time squirting carb cleaner down all the jets and orifices. |
FourBlades |
Apr 14 2010, 11:21 AM
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#336
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
I am going to go through both carbs one at a time as you suggest. It is really rather surprising that one is working and the other is not. John |
FourBlades |
Apr 16 2010, 12:38 PM
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#337
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
Got both carbs working and went for a short drive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) OMG....grin meter is pegged. This is one powerful motor... Gonna go through the other carb now and get it balanced. John |
McMark |
Apr 16 2010, 01:03 PM
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#338
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
SWEEEET!
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914Tom |
Apr 17 2010, 12:55 AM
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#339
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Member Group: Members Posts: 122 Joined: 11-February 07 From: Germany Member No.: 7,526 |
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FourBlades |
Apr 24 2010, 02:40 PM
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#340
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From Wreck to Rockin Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States |
Finally had time to go through both carbs completely. I found that the float on
the side that was idling better was set at 1 mm instead of 11!!! The other carb was not idling well most of the time until I corrected this. The carb with the high float was running rich and preventing the other carb from idling at all unless I set the idle really high. Setting the float levels of both carbs to 11 allowed them to both idle at the same RPM. I also cleaned and blew out all the passages in both carbs, put in new gaskets, and reset all the screws to the recommended starting points. I am learning a lot about IDFs, I think I took the one apart about 3 times before I found the problem was really with the carb I thought was working better. If the carbs had worked perfectly out of the box I would not have learned anything at all about them so it was worth all the fooling around. Now the car idles much better and pulls even harder. There is a little flat spot between idling and open throttle, but not bad. One it gets on the open throttle it pulls very strong. I uploaded another video. It is not great but it gives some idea how it sounds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnbSE7vNqJ4 John |
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