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Cevan |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 ![]() |
I had gotten a Petronix electronic ignition module (1847V). Prior to installing it, the car had been running great with the points (I know, should have left well enough alone). I installed it per the instructions and cranked the motor over but nothing. I checked all my connections and cranked it over again and nothing. So I removed it and put the points back on.
When I go to start it, it seems that only 2 of the cylinders are firing. It was definitely idling low. My CHT gauge never really moved (it's on #3) so I suspect that 3 and possibly 4 are not firing. I drove it about 1/4 mile and no power. Could I have flooded 3 and 4 when I had the Petronix unit on? I'm going to let the car sit overnight and try it again in the morning. Could I have damaged something with the Petronix unit? |
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Brando |
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#21
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Don't undo that 13mm nut!
The thing you want to loosen is a long bolt, looks like hex-stock. Put a socket with an extension on it. If you remove that 13mm nut the whole distributor can come out, but you can't change the timing. |
Cevan |
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#22
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 ![]() |
Ahh , yes. Someone else informed me as well. Thanks. My ignorance is showing. That bolt would be to remove the dizzy, which I don't want to do.
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Cevan |
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#23
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 ![]() |
My saga continues. The car died again, this time on the road (without AAA - damn it!).
I went thru all the testing suggested in Haynes. Initially their was no spark. Then the next day there was. Some type of intermittent problem. Well, after changing the points, condensor and coil, resetting the dwell (got it to 51 degrees - close enough??), idle and timing, I took it for a good 30 minute drive. I got everything to operating temps and it ran great. It's 65-70 degrees here and sunny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Still no oil leaks (it does have oil it). Head temps got to 350, no higher. Hope this is the end of it. |
Spoke |
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#24
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Jerry ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 6,994 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I had a similar spark/no spark issue on my car. Thought it was the points so replaced with Pertronix. Wouldn't start. Removed tach wire on coil. Fired right up. Located the issue to the tach wire going across the engine in the 30 year old, oily, vibrating wire loom. The tach wire was shorting to ground; sometimes.
So when you have the no-spark issue. Have you tried removing just the tach wire? |
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