The Doc's tranny waggin' Options

[Dr Evil]

That frame you made looks strangely familiar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

You used bigger wheels though.

Also the bus in the air like that in the snow also looks strangely familiar! lololol
Zach

Yup, I got the idea from that rig we used as Matt's place. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

ALOMST looks like fun til you realize that driveway is as steep as Zachs and is most likely half a sheet of ice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Most of PA is a sheet of ice right now. Silly Virginian!

Zach

[Krieger]

Cool tool....the sled I mean. Dr. Cock. Sir

[Dr Evil]

So, the diff is off and completely apart. That squeaking noise and lack of Posi was due to......drum roll please......the posi plates and disks being completely bare and scraping (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) So, only $71 shipped to replace them. No biggie....but, while I am in there I thought I would source out a 3.27 R/P set to replace the 3.55 set I already have. Lower RPM by a smidge. I could easily get a 3.08 set, but that has the explicit warning of not using with lower HP engines (not an issue) and not in hilly areas (have that). 3.08 seems too low. 3.55 is actually fine so any small improvement would be cool. Price will tell.

The damn trans pan gasket keeps leaking as does the control cable. I will have to replace the cable ($200) and will likely change to an Al pan for rigidity since I can not keep the fluid in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I need to rebuild another gear box, any takers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[RJMII]

ALOMST looks like fun til you realize that driveway is as steep as Zachs and is most likely half a sheet of ice

The choice in tires must have helped; two tough elements to overcome for sure.

The cart looks like it worked out nicely and held its own. (and that drivetrain lol)

[Dr Evil]

More pics of the carnage. This is what the posi looks like disassembled. Well, the posi and the whole damn diff.

[Dr Evil]

And the completely worn clutch disks and plates.

[Dr Evil]

So, the diff is assembled with different R/P set (was 3.55 now 3.27), back lash is w/i tolerance, all bearings preloaded per MFR instructions. I just need to score some gear marking dye to check the interface and I can call that part good.

I still have the engine on the sled and will need help lifting it onto the stand. As such, I figured I could shed 30# by removing at least one head. Plus, I wanted to see what was going on with the passenger side. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) very rich running, possible oil burning. The carbon build up is insane. No pics right now...at work until tomorrow AM sometime.

I am debating on whether or not to CC the chambers on the new heads like I did on the old ones. I probably will (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I hope I still have all the gear that I made.

Can I reuse the copper head gaskets? They look fine. Do I need to re-anneal them? I may need new ones after doing the CR calc anyway. Maybe I will bump it a few tenths (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

The major transmission leak seems to have all come from the selector cable. The sheath on it parted from the metal sleeve at the end and allows fluid to piss all over the place. Everywhere I go the back of the bus is covered in ATF. As such, I had to shell out some dough for a repro cable (ouch). It is about the only "expensive" part that I have bought for this drive train (stock).

Next, I will pull the other head, check the diff, get engine on stand.

[Dr Evil]

I know we all like pics, so here are some of the chambers and such.

[Dr Evil]

Samoa

[Dr Evil]

Lastly

[rick 918-S]

Your fuel mileage must have sucked. The CIS is not the most conservative but once you get it dialed in it will work better than the toilet flusher.

[Dr Evil]

Ya, I thought I was actually getting 10mpg (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) If I can get modern mileage levels with a bread box, that would rock!

[rick 918-S]

I'm looking forward to seeing your intake setup. I always thought the CIS from a rabbit could be adapted onto the typeIV as an option over carbs.

[Dr Evil]

To note, and to no surprise, the engine ran really cool head temps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Engine on the stand, other head off, no surprises there.

A nice tip for those of you with no friends or like me, have no time when your friends do and need to move your engine from the floor to the stand. I spent $8 on cinder blocks, slowly rock the engine side to side while building blocks under it, then slip the stand onto the adapter. Took < 5min.

[HarveyH]

Don't know if gear marking dye is anything special, but I do know tool and die makers and die setters used to use Prussian Blue oil pigment (from the art supply store) to check high/low spots and alignment. Cleans up with a rag and solvent and is so fine it won't score mirror surfaces. Doesn't set up like Dykem Blue so they would just apply to the true surface and mate the parts to mark the high spots of the mating surface. After stoning and polishing the high spots they would clean the mating surface, make sure the coating was even on the true surface and repeat and repeat and repeat.......

My father was a Tool & Die Maker at the Budd Co. in Philadelphia. Most proud of the first die he ever made completely by himself, the end plate for a (I think) 56 Chevy dashboard. (about 2-1/2' x8" with a compound curve, the edges drawn over and two countersunk piercings). First die the company ever produced that was true the first strike in the tryout press.

Harvey

[Dr Evil]

Prussian blus is used, but is dark and hard to see. I have some white lithium that I am going to try. Same concept as the blue. The paste that I can get from the auto dealer is basically a yellow paste that does not set up. I feel confident that I can get-r-done with the lithium.

[Randal]

FINALLY! I got to use my contraption and got the engine out pretty easily. Kind of hairy once the cradle was pointed down hill in order to get it into the garage. No much traction on a painted floor wet with snow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Now the fun begins (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

How did you lower the engine and transmission down to the cradle?

Nice design on the receiver.

PS

Feel like a wimp complaining about a little rain stopping me from putting my engine back in....

[Dr Evil]

The receiver is a unit I bought from a guy off of the Samba (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The roller has an empty section that I built in specifically for the jack. I just roll the jack in and lower the engine. Raising it is just the opposite.