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> The Doc's tranny waggin'
Dr Evil
post Mar 25 2012, 02:55 PM
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Well, I was forced to take a break when a bolt broke flush in the adapter and the drill bit broke in the remnant (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Looks like I will be converting the welder over to ferrous metal to weld on it and hopefully get it out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) It almost came out all the way with the easy out, but then the top broke off the remnant so I tried to drill it further.
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The other side air box only had one small leak in it so now the boxes are all finished up and ready to be mounted.....then I found that they are a bit too short (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) So, I will need to make 1/4-1/2" spacers for the air boxes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Here is the TB stand pipe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Maybe I can finish the center connector pipe today.


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Dr Evil
post Mar 25 2012, 06:10 PM
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Done for the day. Gonna have to raise the boxes 3/8-7/16. That damn broken bolt took way to long to fix. I had to drill and drill and drill. Then I welded up the big hole, drilled and tapped. Good to go.


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Randal
post Mar 25 2012, 06:58 PM
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The induction manifolds are turning out great. Nice welding job. Looking real clean.

Having helped with my FI system on the race motor, it's easy to understand the challenge you took on...and you had a lot of new ground to plow.

I'm hoping your arithmetic on the volume / air flow works out perfect.
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scotty b
post Mar 25 2012, 08:17 PM
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rust free you say ?
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Absolutely stunning work there Mikey (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) your skillz amaze me. You seem to have the world at your fingertips. This will no doubt be the most successful bastardization modification of a VW bus ever. Your name will go down in the anals of VW greatness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 25 2012, 08:23 PM
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Laying it a bit thick there, eh Scooter? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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scotty b
post Mar 25 2012, 08:30 PM
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rust free you say ?
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 25 2012, 06:23 PM) *

Laying it a bit thick there, eh Scooter? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mellow.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 25 2012, 08:41 PM
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You know you are doing something good when you keep checking your own thread to look at the pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Looks so cool. I hope it works.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 26 2012, 08:38 PM
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Scored a piece of 3"x0.5"x24" aluminum today. Too bad I was looking for 0.5" x 3" x 2'. I will make it into risers. I had to take a day off to get some DVDs made up. Huge demand lately (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I have a part for the CIS that I won on Ebay 10 days ago....I still have yet to see.....it comes from a very notorious vender (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Called and got the usual today, "Uh, Bubba, they guy that handles that part of the biz, aint here right now." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 26 2012, 08:46 PM
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Oh ya, we are past 43,000 views! And that was without boobies!
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scotty b
post Mar 27 2012, 07:46 AM
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Everyone loves to look at a good train wreck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


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Dr Evil
post Mar 27 2012, 09:18 PM
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Why thank you. I do look hot today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Tonight I could not seem to drill a hole where I wanted to. I made due. Putting 2.5" holes in 1/2" Aluminum with a hole saw SUX. Its what I have and it cost me $0 so dont judge me.

I got the 1/2" sections drilled and almost completely welded to the feet of the boxes. Gonna pretty them up tomorrow. Then, install on engine, make TB center pipe combo, and make measurements for the fuel lines that I will be ordering. SS braided, goon look good. I hope it runs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 28 2012, 08:21 PM
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I finished fabricating the center tube for mock up. It looks perfect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I am not sure if I will have it horizontal or vertical, but I think vertical may be the best bet as long as it fits in the engine compartment, which I think it will. The aux air supply bung/CSV bung needs to be fabbed and welded on the center pipe still, as well as a mount to keep the center pipe in place. As you can see in the pics, there is the perfect amount of clearance now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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Dr Evil
post Mar 28 2012, 08:24 PM
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I am questioning the need for a pop-off valve like on the plastic boxes in order to keep the back fires from damaging things if they should happen. Anyone have input on that? How to mount a plastic valve to the aluminum will be interesting as well.


Or, I can carry extra rubber sleeves (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 28 2012, 08:30 PM
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At this point, I am going to try to install the drive train this weekend and finish up any odds and ends over next week.
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rick 918-S
post Mar 28 2012, 10:57 PM
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Wasn't the pop off to prevent blowing up the plastic 911 air box? I don't have a pop off on my CIS 928 engine.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 05:54 AM
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Ya, for protection of the box. I guess since the V8 doesn't have one, I don't need one. It will just test my welds.
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Katmanken
post Mar 29 2012, 10:02 AM
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Dang! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

That looks real nice. Hope it works as good as it looks.

Make sure none of that ground aluminum dust got into anything vital.

Clean up the ground aluminum. Produces oxygen in a fire and has been used for that purpose in some solid rocket fuels.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 10:14 AM
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Ya, no kidding. With all the rust and Al shavings in my garage I have a huge thermite reaction waiting.
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Katmanken
post Mar 29 2012, 01:07 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 28 2012, 10:24 PM) *

I am questioning the need for a pop-off valve like on the plastic boxes in order to keep the back fires from damaging things if they should happen. Anyone have input on that? How to mount a plastic valve to the aluminum will be interesting as well.


Or, I can carry extra rubber sleeves (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Don't worry about it. The flapper valves I've seen are used to protect plastic air boxes. I'd hazard a guess the aluminum is a bit stronger, and less sensitive to getting brittle when cold. If not, it may be a weld test.

FYI- If the aluminum used is heat treated (T4, T6) the welding will kill the heat treat near the weld and knock it back to dead soft (T0).

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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 01:26 PM
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TO is better, then. More elastic and less brittle.
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