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> The Doc's tranny waggin'
Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 02:43 PM
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QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Mar 14 2012, 12:08 AM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 11 2012, 08:57 PM) *

So, one of the design things needing to be addressed to meet the and of the month deadline for completion is how to hook the CIS box to the intake. I have been looking at Volvo air boots, but the best think I am seeing is the 924 boot here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Porsche-...de7&vxp=mtr

Any other suggestions? I am wishing to go from vertical to horizontal and with the 924 boot I can do this with a simple elbow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


That looks very similar to the 3.0L intake!

You can do something like I did for the Volvo intake and the welded up elbow. I cut the original intake boot and made the elbow to fit my needs! Then I clamped the cut intake to the elbow to match everything together!


Jeff,

This is looking like the best setup for the intake. How did you make the connecting tube? I will need to know so I can copy it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Jeffs9146
post Mar 29 2012, 03:06 PM
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I welded it up just like you did your intake!

I made a wooden block in the shape of the cut end of the intake boot and formed the metal to match the block by bending it and hammering it. It was a bottom piece, two end pieces to match the wood block, side pieces and a top piece all bent and welded to create the shape. I had to do the two end pieces seperate to match the boot pieces and then attached to bottom and filled in the remaining metal. The fill pieces didn't need to be perfect just air tight! Then I ground all the welds sanded it smooth and powder coated it to match the car!

I felt the powder coat was the best way to get a smooth surface for the boot to clamp snug without leaking!

I hope that helps!
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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 03:10 PM
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Right on. I think mine will be easier as I may be able to make a straight pipe with the oval shape being the only fun part. I was looking at sheet metal that I may be able to make into a tube and then hammer into shape.

Stay tuned.
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Jeffs9146
post Mar 29 2012, 03:21 PM
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PS: I used two different boots so I could cut extra material on each end to allow me to grind off the humps on the boot surface and give me plenty of clamping area!

Here it is in raw form and powder coated!


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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 03:37 PM
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What gauge and material did you use??
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Jeffs9146
post Mar 29 2012, 03:47 PM
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Thicker than I planned for the two end pieces and thinner for the filled in section! I was planning on doing it again in aluminum or thinner gauge steal, this was my test one but it worked so well I just used it!

The end pieces were 2" straps bent and shaped then welded to get the clamping area correct!
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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 05:43 PM
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I just bought a 24x24" 16ga sheet to attempt to make a tube with. I will bend it around a piece of pipe and see if that works. I have two boots to use.
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Jeffs9146
post Mar 29 2012, 06:40 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 29 2012, 04:43 PM) *

I just bought a 24x24" 16ga sheet to attempt to make a tube with. I will bend it around a piece of pipe and see if that works. I have two boots to use.


Thats a good start. I found it easier to bend a 16g 2" or 3" strap into the shape you need and it will only take two welds to connect the two pieces. Then build your tube to connect the two by mounting them with hose clamps the two boots and put the boots on to the intake and the throttle body. Then make a template using a piece of cardboard to get the basic shape and length. That way you wont be guessing.

Mine was tough because it was not a straight shot and the 90' angle was not exactly 90'!
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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2012, 07:19 PM
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Luckily, I can go in a straight line. It is the height that I was worried about and with the CIS boot that is cut down significantly.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 30 2012, 09:00 PM
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Good progress today. Made up the tube by hand bending and beating the hell out of some 16g steel. That was fun. I will finish it when I know how long I need it to be.
Attached Image

Here is an idea of the total height of the TB and stuff. I think this will fit just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Here is the center section with the bung I made and welded in for the cold start valve and aux air tap.
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Next, I need to fab up some sheet metal for the tins. I finally used some power shears that I bought for this a long time ago. They cut the 16g pretty easy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Last tie I made the tins I did it with hand shears and it was painful.

Tomorrow I will try to button up all the small stuff and by Sun night this stuff will hopefully be in the bus and my order for the fuel lines will be submitted (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 31 2012, 07:52 PM
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So, I finished up some welding on the setup, then leak checked to find out some of my welds suck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Its my first time. What really sucks is that I am OUT of wire. So, I have to wait until tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I have the transmission and diff all reassembled and ready to mate up to the engine, I have the remove-install cart out and need to air up the tires, and I am making up the very simple wire harness.

I had to get inventive today, too. The air lines are 3/4", 5/8" and 1/2". The 3/4 and 5/8 are connected directly to the plenum where they will experience maximum vac. I could not find any large vac hose locally and quickly, and the OE stuff is actually welded aluminum tubing with special ends that would not fit my setup. So, I bought some throttle pedal return springs in a package for $2.49, took the one about the right dia and stretched it out. I cut it to length and slid it into the hose. No way that they will collapse now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

More tomorrow.
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brer
post Apr 1 2012, 10:37 AM
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grind it back before you try to weld it again or it may reappear over time. oh, and tig is ideal for this fix, just give it enough buzz to get it flowing and push the ally around with the gas flow. I can't imagine trying to mig it closed.
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Jeffs9146
post Apr 1 2012, 10:44 AM
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QUOTE
I cut it to length and slid it into the hose. No way that they will collapse now


I pushed a piece of copper pipe into my lines to keep them from collapsing!

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Dr Evil
post Apr 1 2012, 11:30 AM
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Brer, I will not be Tiging, but thanks for the tip to grind it out again. I will to that.

Jeff, I needed to be able to bend the hose without it collapsing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Copper is good for a straight line, or a subtle bend, though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 1 2012, 05:11 PM
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Its under the bus......then it started to rain (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)
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jsayre914
post Apr 1 2012, 05:14 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Apr 1 2012, 07:11 PM) *

Its under the bus......then it started to rain (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Do I get to drive it at Hershey?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 1 2012, 05:23 PM
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Yes, you can drive it at Hershey....if it makes it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Drive train assembled on the purpose built trolley:
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Under the bus.....damn rain. It looks like it may stop (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


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BajaXJ92
post Apr 1 2012, 06:11 PM
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I wanna drive it!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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scotty b
post Apr 1 2012, 06:34 PM
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That dolly is going to make one hell of a downhill skateboard someday (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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BajaXJ92
post Apr 1 2012, 07:25 PM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Apr 1 2012, 08:34 PM) *

That dolly is going to make one hell of a downhill skateboard someday (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


Perhaps you can recycle it and build some trailer ramps? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)
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