The Doc's tranny waggin' Options

[Dr Evil]

After much internal debate, I yield. I could get this done tonight, drive 6hrs to Scooter's, and run a clinic for two days, maybe. I think it better to rest a bit and leave soon with a clear head.

I'll post pics in a sec.

[Dr Evil]

Here she is in her all her glory.

Still to do:
- exhaust
- Finish fuel plumbing
- Electrical stuff
- Throttle
- Air tube

[jsayre914]

Looks great Mike !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

[scotty b]

Sick looking !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Best damn lawn ornament ever! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[rick 918-S]

Nice.

[type11969]

Looks sweet!

[scotty b]

Zach's pens are here

BillH is here


Evil is here........





where are you ???

[Dr Evil]

Here

[bulitt]

getting up to let the fricking dog out...then driving there.

[BajaXJ92]

ETA 5pm Eastern Standard Time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Alright, time to get back on this and hope to get it done in time for Matt's party (if I can get off of work at that time).

What is the big hold up? I am trying to figure out how to pipe the air from the fuel dist to the TB. My initial idea looks heavy and wont match the angles very well. I need to have pipe bend and twist a little, and I can not have the volume of the pipe be to large or the throttle response and running will be crappy.

One idea I have is to make a cage out of metal bar that I would weld to rings on either end that match the intake mouths. Then once I make a cage doing that, which matches the bends, I can skin it. The end product should be reinforced by the cage and match the curves......but what a lot of work. Any other ideas? I want it to be light since it has to stretch a bit of distance. If there was a hose I could use, that would be perfect.

[Jeffs9146]

You could try 3" electrical conduit and cut notches to bend then weld up the holes. Attach the TB rubber boots like I did on my 3.0L!

The conduit is light weight and can be welded.

[Dr Evil]

That sounds plausible. I will have to look into that. I took your advise on making the rings for the ends so this may all just mate up. I can likely beat the conduit into the oval shape for the mouths....I think that the opening is larger than 3", though, so I will have to weld in some flairs. 3" volume should be appropriate, though.

Thanks, Jeff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Just hit 3 hardware places and the biggest conduit is 2" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I had the idea to look at fence posts and they are no bigger than 2 3/8 OD .

Why can I not use ABS? Cheap, heat tolerant, premade bends. I just have to mate it to the TB and dist.

[Dr Evil]

Acutally, 3" exhaust pipe should be pretty easy to come by and has angles in it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

It would probably be a bit heavier but it would be the same!

[Katmanken]

I know you have your fuel dist. set in a nice out of the way place, but maybe something like this would work for you.

The Vanagon puts the air sensor box on a pedestal right next to and partially over the intake manifolds, and uses a short rubber section to the TB to allow for motor vibration and rapid response. A tuned snorkel runs from the air sensor box to the right hand louvered engine air intake in the side of the van.

FYI, some people have reported a power loss when the snorkel is detached, so a tuned length does something.

[Dr Evil]

Not the same setup or FI system. Essentially, I am doing that, but with what I have to in the confines I am given.

[Katmanken]

Evil,

I know they are different FI systems, but the all have a manifold, a throttle body on top of that, a piece of connecting tubing on that, and an air flow sensor of some kind that sets the fuel flow, and an air filter on top of that.

My point was that moving the box closer to the throttle body seems to be the norm, and that a small pedestal has been used to hold the airflow sensor/filter box closer to the throttle.

Since you are dealing with compressible flow, the reason a short piece of tubing makes sense is that when you open the throttle, you start a column of air moving towards the throttle body, and that triggers the demand for extra fuel by moving the CIS plate. When you close the throttle, the inertia of the column of air keeps moving through the CIS box and into the conecting tubing until the air column backs up against the throttle plate and creates enough pressure within the connecting tubing to move the CIS plate closed to match the throttle position.

The bigger the volume of the connecting tubing, the longer it takes to pressurize the connecting tubing when the throttle closes. When you accelerate, it takes longer to get a column of air moving enough to move the CIS plate. Shorter tubing means a better match on the fuel and air being fed into your engine, less lag when you push on the throttle and less lag when you release the throttle.

Used to call my Vanagon accelerator pedal a "fly-by-wire" system. Mash the pedal, and nothing happens until the EFI says it will. Once it got moving, it was great and the pedal seemed to better match the engine speed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)