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> The Doc's tranny waggin'
sixnotfour
post Oct 11 2012, 02:44 AM
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The nice thing about the Propex is you can get a timer and a thermostat and it can run continuos= warm bus in the morning.
my 914 stays warm all day and night.
BTW the importer USA is in Maryland. mine worked and quit, Karl sent me the capacitor and told what to do ,worked great ever since.
http://westyventures.com/index.html

Here is another option I have in a 914-6 (big alternator)
works good but motor must be running (High amp draw)
Also when its on its making heat. (no purge cycle etc, )
http://dcthermal.com/catalog/12-volt-ducted-heaters
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Dr Evil
post Oct 11 2012, 11:23 AM
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Ooo, that electric one is interesting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I have a BN4 already as well. I hope to tackle the last "running" things this weekend. I am just looking ahead to the fact that it is too cold to ride my motorcycle, so I need heat in my car.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 30 2013, 09:23 PM
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It is now time to start working on getting the beast back on the street. One major stumbling block for me so far is the damn oil temp sensor placement.

I have male AN-10 coming out of the engine into the hose going to the cooler up front. In the previous iteration of using an oil heated manifold I had an easy place to put the sensor. Currently I do not. I was using a VDO 323-055 as it went with my gauge.

If I am to use this same sensor, which is M14x1.5, I need to find a way to insert this into the out flow circuit.

The only thing that I could find was an adapter that has male AN10 on one end, female on the other, and a 1/8NPT port in the middle. I can use a male 1/8NPT to M14 adapter (maybe, not sure it would exactly fit). However, if I can find another sender maybe this will work better?

Ideas?
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Dr Evil
post Mar 30 2013, 10:07 PM
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I found this as a possible option. It does not protrude into the oil stream:
1H0919563, it is a VW/Audi/etc part. It is VDO and has the same 300F and 322-18 ohm range as the VDO 323-055. It is an M10x1.0.

This would be very good if I could find an adapter that was AN 10F - AN10M and had the ability to be drilled and tapped. I dont think that the 1/8NPT can be tapped out to M10x1.0.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 30 2013, 10:28 PM
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Next thought, maybe an adapter to convert the male AN10 output to metric, and then back again so I can fabricate a block to go between the adapters that would take my temp sender?
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bulitt
post Mar 31 2013, 06:41 AM
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Earls makes a tee with three female AN10 openings. You could fit a AN10 male to one opening and try and find a An10 to M14 x 1.5 for the third.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.jegs.com-13632-1364733736.1.jpg)

Earls Tee
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Dr Evil
post Mar 31 2013, 03:47 PM
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I think that I am going to go with the build my own adapter approach.

I already have the metric male to AN male so all I need is the metric female to metric male and a piece of aluminum to drill out.

gonna be fun.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 31 2013, 03:53 PM
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Its always good to measure. I am actually using AN12 (doh).
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Dr Evil
post Mar 31 2013, 06:31 PM
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Alright, plans are in place:

AN12 male --> 3/4 NPT male --> Aluminum block with hole drilled in it for temp sensor --> 3/4 NPT male --> AN12 Female
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Dr Evil
post Apr 1 2013, 07:34 AM
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The only change to the original idea is that I will be using the M14x1.5 sensor now that I can make the adapter any size I want. I am going to drill out a 1.25x1.5x2" block, off side so that the center bore is offset to leave room for the 1/2" long sensor The tip is better on the 055 as well because it is smaller dia than the sensor itself and will allow oil to flow around the whole sensor tip for an expected more accurate reading. Either way, I already had one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Taps, drill bits, and Al on the way. The trannywagon needs to move to the new house under its own power and we start to move May15 and finish June14. I will actively start working on the trannywagon April 22. Tight schedule, stay tuned.
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Dr Evil
post Apr 2 2013, 11:26 AM
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Next update, I am using AN 8 and 1/2 NPT. It helps to keep measurements correct. AN12 is HUGE.
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Eric_Shea
post Apr 2 2013, 11:39 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/yawn.gif)
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MDG
post Apr 2 2013, 11:42 AM
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Doc? Is this the one you are turning into a cafe style racer?

Will you be doing any more welding? Cuz that was cool.

I was particularly taken with this example where you combined welding with whittling to create a kind of Dr. Seuss landscape effect. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

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scotty b
post Apr 2 2013, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Apr 2 2013, 09:39 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/yawn.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jerkit.gif)

Next thing you know he'll be slapping a super rare fog light on the roof, use it to start promoting his Doc oral practice, and showing us pics of his business ad featuring Rob Zombie. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 12 2013, 09:24 PM
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If they dont have it for sale, then you gotta make it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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BajaXJ92
post Apr 15 2013, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Apr 12 2013, 11:24 PM) *

If they dont have it for sale, then you gotta make it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Thats, um, what she said? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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wingnut86
post May 4 2013, 07:58 PM
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Powdah coat that Fuchah PINK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
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Dr Evil
post May 5 2013, 06:11 PM
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OK, today I started back on the bus project. I decided to get all the hoses done so now the fuel system is all hooked up and ready to rock. The oil system is ready as well and my adapter for the oil temp is in place and looks out of place. I just keep telling myself that it is a prototype and that some day, once the concepts are proven, I will drop the engine and pretty it all up (ya right).

Next on the list, figure out how I am going to wire the limited CIS electrical. The main issue is that I need power to the cold start valve and thermotime switch ONLY when the engine is actually turning. Having it run when the key is on, but engine not turning means that it will dump a lot of fuel into the intake and likely flood the engine. Engine flooding was a huge issue with my 914/6 CIS conversion and caused a lot of headache.

So, anyone have ideas on how I can control voltage to the cold start circuit as described above?

My back up plan is to throw on some 3A carbs just to get it going. I hope a friend of mine can lend me a set with manifolds and linkage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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scotty b
post May 5 2013, 06:22 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 5 2013, 04:11 PM) *


So, anyone have ideas on how I can control voltage to the cold start circuit as described above?





headlight switch. Use the leads for the guage dimmer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Dr Evil
post May 5 2013, 06:42 PM
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How would that work? I was wondering if I could just tap off of the alternator output to the alt fail light. I could at least use its output as a switch for a circuit.
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