 The Doc's tranny waggin' |
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| wingnut86 |
 May 5 2013, 06:50 PM
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#1461
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...boola la boo boola boo...  Group: Members Posts: 1,053 Joined: 22-April 10 From: South Carolina Member No.: 11,645 Region Association: South East States  |
Scotty may be on to something here...
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| scotty b |
May 5 2013, 07:03 PM
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#1462
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 5 2013, 04:42 PM)  How would that work? I was wondering if I could just tap off of the alternator output to the alt fail light. I could at least use its output as a switch for a circuit. Push pull for the lights on would work as your power on off, the dimmer is just a rheostat ( ?) that would work to adjust the voltage. Keep in mind, you know my |
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| Dr Evil |
May 5 2013, 08:13 PM
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#1463
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region 
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Uh, ya. So, the power to the cold start circuit needs to come on ONLY when the engine is turning. So, I like the idear of a switch in the cabin as this would be the easiest, and the thermotime switch would turn it off, but the rheostat is not needed as it needs either full on or full off.
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| scotty b |
May 5 2013, 08:16 PM
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#1464
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
then just put a f-ing switch on the dash ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Power in...power out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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| Dr Evil |
May 5 2013, 08:18 PM
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#1465
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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That is a pain to wire and not completely correct. I want it to be: turn key, engine start, no drama, no extra switches, etc.
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| scotty b |
May 5 2013, 08:18 PM
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#1466
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
doesn't the start circuit on the ignition switch cut out once you release the key ?
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| scotty b |
May 5 2013, 08:20 PM
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#1467
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 5 2013, 06:18 PM) That is a pain to wire and not completely correct. So you want everything to be primo, original condition ? Got it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) |
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| Dr Evil |
May 5 2013, 08:38 PM
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#1468
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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QUOTE(scotty b @ May 5 2013, 10:18 PM) doesn't the start circuit on the ignition switch cut out once you release the key ? Yes, but I need the power to remain on while the engine is running until the thermo time switch turns it off. |
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| Valy |
May 5 2013, 09:59 PM
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#1469
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 5 2013, 05:11 PM) OK, today I started back on the bus project. I decided to get all the hoses done so now the fuel system is all hooked up and ready to rock. The oil system is ready as well and my adapter for the oil temp is in place and looks out of place. I just keep telling myself that it is a prototype and that some day, once the concepts are proven, I will drop the engine and pretty it all up (ya right). Next on the list, figure out how I am going to wire the limited CIS electrical. The main issue is that I need power to the cold start valve and thermotime switch ONLY when the engine is actually turning. Having it run when the key is on, but engine not turning means that it will dump a lot of fuel into the intake and likely flood the engine. Engine flooding was a huge issue with my 914/6 CIS conversion and caused a lot of headache. So, anyone have ideas on how I can control voltage to the cold start circuit as described above? My back up plan is to throw on some 3A carbs just to get it going. I hope a friend of mine can lend me a set with manifolds and linkage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I posted a carbs fuel pump circuit a while ago. I can't look it up now since I'm on my phone but it uses the starter control and oil pressure indication so it does what you need. |
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| sixnotfour |
May 5 2013, 11:04 PM
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#1470
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,636 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains 
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| crash914 |
May 6 2013, 02:52 AM
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#1471
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its a mystery to me Group: Members Posts: 1,827 Joined: 17-March 03 From: Marriottsville, MD Member No.: 434 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
tie in a relay to the starter solenoid...
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| Dr Evil |
May 6 2013, 08:48 AM
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#1472
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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Valy, that is what I am planning. The Alt does not provide power, but the oil pressure switch can be used with less worry about goofing with the charging circuit.
A relay would be good, and I will be using one either way, but hooking it to the start circuit would only activate it when the starter is engaged. I could place a relay that closes with the first turn of the key and stays closed, but then if the engine did not start on the first turn it would flood with every subsequent attempt. I may need to tie the pump into such a circuit as well. With the /6, the pump runs with the key on and that caused it to flood the engine. I had to do a quick key on --> start sequence and if this did not happen then I had to turn the key off quickly and try again. A real PITA. This should not be a problem. I know I could probably design a simple circuit with a capacitor and/or transistor to act as a switch...lets see what the day brings. |
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| Dr Evil |
May 6 2013, 11:20 AM
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#1473
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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Ah, research can some times lead to enlightenment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) My understanding that the cold start injector ran until the engine was hot was wrong. It actually only runs when the starter is engaged which makes wiring so much easier.
"Another fuel line comes off of the fuel distributor and goes to the cold start injector. It is bolted into the intake manifold with two Allen-key bolts and is sealed with a large rubber O-ring. It is an electronically operated injector (like those in a car with Electronic Fuel Injection). It only sprays fuel during the first few seconds when the car is starting, and it only does this when the engine is cold. It only injects fuel when the starter motor is turbing." http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/k-jet-in-detail/#3 |
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| Valy |
May 6 2013, 11:42 AM
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#1474
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California |
The circuit is powered by the starter until the oil pressure light goes off so if the engine doesn't start you don't flood it. Same, when the engine stops the current supply stops as well with the run-in of the oil pressure bulb.
I suggest you take a better look at the circuit. |
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| Dr Evil |
May 6 2013, 12:10 PM
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#1475
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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I do not need to involve the OP light at all. The TTS I have will act as a switch for the CSI when the temp is <95F. This is not difficult now that I know it only is open when the engine is actually cranking and not while it is running.
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| Dr Evil |
May 6 2013, 07:21 PM
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#1476
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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Almost done with the wiring. Got the fuel pump, cold start injector, thermo time switch all set.
I had a thought as I was working on the bus...."Holy shit, this thing might actually run!" What is left; clean up wiring, ignition wiring, final vac hose, install exhaust. Then I find what else I need to do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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| Dr Evil |
May 6 2013, 07:39 PM
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#1478
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,032 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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You all know that feeling. Right before the next disappointment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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| wingnut86 |
May 6 2013, 08:40 PM
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#1479
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...boola la boo boola boo... Group: Members Posts: 1,053 Joined: 22-April 10 From: South Carolina Member No.: 11,645 Region Association: South East States |
Shit Scott, that's funny (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I'm screwed... |
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| Mike Bellis |
May 6 2013, 09:39 PM
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#1480
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 6 2013, 06:39 PM) You all know that feeling. Right before the next disappointment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Yep, I'm almost afraid to connect the battery on my car... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
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