The Doc's tranny waggin' Options

[VaccaRabite]

And I have to go back to work Monday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

You are welcome to work, but I won't be around to help. I'll also be gone the weekend of the 8th and Presidents Day weekend. As alawys, you are welcome to come over, but you will be on your own.

Zach

[scotty b]

So what did you find on the float issue ? Out of adjustment, trash ?

[VaccaRabite]

I saw this on youtube.
Its not helping me. This car is HOT! and 193HP to the rear wheels (so says the video)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddbbGbUPlyc


Zach

[scotty b]

Gee whizzzz Just go get that maroon one and get on with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[scotty b]

Weber setup (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzicgyjY12E...feature=related


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzicgyjY12E&feature

[jmill]

A buddy of mine had one with a stock turbo. It wasn't as old as the one in the video. He was saving it for his kid (who must be 30 by now). It had some pep.

[Dr Evil]

Today was a good day. I adjusted the float bowl and solved the flooding issue. I bought the new alt and switched the end cap for the corvair to it. I swapped the new bearing from the new alt end cap into the corvair end cap and assembled the new unit. All spun good, no noise, no binding. Interesting thing about the old one, when I disassembled it, it looked fine inside. No wearing, rubbing, binding or anything else that would be expected of an alt producing the whining noise. More oddity happened when I installed the new one and ran it was that it whined a little, but not as much. I am not going to worry about it for now. The new unit is better assembled and cheap so I intend to run it until it gets worse or stops working.

After reassembling all of the parts onto the engine I started it right up and ran it a few times for a few minutes. The carb is not adjusted so I had to keep giving it gas, then I adjusted the dizzy, needed less gas, tweak, run better, etc. Bottom line, the engine is ready for installation and can be tuned in the car.

Thing learned today, the starter is not sufficient for this engine. It only turns it when the engine actually wants to start, but it lags badly even after the engine has been running for a few minutes. It is not a ground issue or a battery issue. I had the car idling at 3k while the battery was attached to the starter directly. It was pathetic, and disappointing.

The engine sounded bad ass running though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) It made nice heat in the garage as I had the pipes outside of the garage, the door only just open and the engine in the garage. This is getting close to moving (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[type11969]

Nice, congrats!

[scotty b]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Wish I could have stayed another day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Your help allowed today to happen (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

I am still concerned about your alternator.

I could not hear your engine when it was running and I was inside. But I could hear the whine of the alternator. maybe its just the frequency, but it seemed to me to be pronounced.

Sorry I could not come out. Had to take care of little guy and give Erin the night off after she watched him all day yesterday.

But, my hiking trip next weekend is likely canceled due to the organizer being ill. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) However, that means I will be around to help get the engine in the van and help with other tuning stuff.

Zach

[Dr Evil]

I am busy next weekend. The engine was LOUD so I am not sure how you didnt hear it. The alt was barely audible standing right next to it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Dont know what to say.

[Dr Evil]

So here is the latest:
I ordered a Hi-torque starter that is made specifically for the corvair motor. Its new and should last forever. I didnt feel like messing with it any more. It should be here Fri.

As for the current starter issue, I do wonder if the alternator being wired up is having anything to do with it. It is a one wire, internally regulated jobby so I doubt it. But, I like to worry about stupid things.

Next, I need to prep the engine bay for drive-train insertion. This will be when I finish my engine tin fabrication.

Then simple engine wiring, cabling, install axles, install seat mount, drive?

[Dr Evil]

I decided to draw out the schematic of my engine wiring and did some research on the "one wire" alternator. I found that the one wire alt needs a second wire from the ig switch to activate it. This turns out to be a good thing, though, as I will use this to power my idiot light and buzzer.

The warning system:
The alt needs B+ to the +1 pin in order to switch it on. If the alt should fail or stop turning then this wire will lose its ground and the light would go out, according to one web site I found; http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#how_to_wire

"The ignition wire to the #1 terminal can be supplied in two ways, either a direct ignition wire from the key switch or through a light bulb. Running the ignition wire through a light bulb before connection to the alternator will give you a warning if your alternator fails to start charging or if it quits working while the engine is running, this is commonly known as the idiot light. Another thing that should be mentioned is the #1 terminal must be ignition switched. I have heard of situations where a wire was run to the #1 terminal that had power on at all times. What happens is when the engine is turned off the #1 terminal switches to ground which over time can burn up the voltage regulator or the wire if power is not cut to the #1 terminal."

This is kinda unclear as it states that term 1 switches TO ground when the engine is off. This would cause the light to THEN come on.

Luckily, our cars are supplied with many little round relays that can either be SPST-NO or NC. If I go with the NC configuration, I just need to hook the power in to pins 85 (coil in) and 30 (power to warning equipment), hook the alt term 1 up to pin 86 (coil out), and hook either pin 87a (NC configuration) or pin 87 (NO) to the power into the light and buzzer which are wired in parallel. I would ground the warning circuit separately under the dash.

In the NC (normally closed) configuration, power is allowed to flow through the relay to the warning circuit when the power to the relay coil is lost but the key is on supplying power to the warning circuit.

In the NO (normally open) configuration, power is not allowed to run through the relay to the warning circuit until it is energized. Thus, the warning circuit does not get power unless the term 1 at the alt grounds and switches the relay on.

This should be very cheap and easy (my favorite) to do.

[VaccaRabite]

If you can get your starter to me, I'll try and get your engine in over the weekend.

is there anything more that needs doing before we stuff it in the Bus?
Zach

[rick 918-S]

Mike, I would suggest just locating the idiot light wire for the bus dash and use it to excite the alternator. Check the bus wiring diagram.
When the exciter wire turns on the alternator it will loose ground and the light on the dash will turn off as normal. I have a GM one wire on the Alien and I used the 914 dash light wire for the exciter. Works fine. Oh, BTW: the alternator will turn itself on if you rev the engine a couple times. but it will not work well this way.

[Dr Evil]

Zach, thats kind, but I will do it on Mon.

Rick, I need the buzzer as insurance against not noticing that my belt has slipped. The alt wire will be using the dash light as it was intended, but it will also have a buzzer inserted into the circuit to warn when bad stuff has happened. Are you saying that the exciter wire initially has ground through the alt and then loses it until the alt stops functioning?

[Dr Evil]

Zach, if you want to do something, here is what I still need:

- Remove most of the metal around the VIN tab (leave only what is necessary)
- Remove rest of the engine shelf on the pass side (maybe)
- Smooth and prime/paint the new bare metal from cutting the engine shelf
- Prime/paint the support tubes I placed through the frame in the rear
- Prime/paint the engine bar (I have POR-15 for this one, upstairs)

I should have all the paints necessary to do this stuff. Once the engine bay is ready, the engine goes in and the tin gets fitted. I will need to mock up the forward tin before the engine goes in. I need to put the correct holes in it for wiring, throttle linkage, and the ATF tube. This will likely need to be installed prior to stabbing the engine into the bus. After this, it will be the fabrication of the aft tin under the pully that will be the challenge.

[rick 918-S]

Zach, thats kind, but I will do it on Mon.

Rick, I need the buzzer as insurance against not noticing that my belt has slipped. The alt wire will be using the dash light as it was intended, but it will also have a buzzer inserted into the circuit to warn when bad stuff has happened. Are you saying that the exciter wire initially has ground through the alt and then loses it until the alt stops functioning?

I may be wrong but that is my undrestanding. I need to read up on that again, I may not have the accurately discribed or over simplified. BTW: there is something about using the bulb that creates a resistance. If you replace the bulb with an LED it will cause the system to fail. Eric Shea had something happen like that once but I'm not clear on the facts. Just saying don't replace the filiment bulb with an LED.

[Dr Evil]

Zach, thats kind, but I will do it on Mon.

Rick, I need the buzzer as insurance against not noticing that my belt has slipped. The alt wire will be using the dash light as it was intended, but it will also have a buzzer inserted into the circuit to warn when bad stuff has happened. Are you saying that the exciter wire initially has ground through the alt and then loses it until the alt stops functioning?

I may be wrong but that is my undrestanding. I need to read up on that again, I may not have the accurately discribed or over simplified. BTW: there is something about using the bulb that creates a resistance. If you replace the bulb with an LED it will cause the system to fail. Eric Shea had something happen like that once but I'm not clear on the facts. Just saying don't replace the filiment bulb with an LED.

The way I will be wiring it it will be going straight through the coil in the relay so it will be fine. Luckily, no matter how the alt lead works, all I need to do is swap the lead from one terminal to another (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Regarding the crappy starter plague, I just realized that the tranny was not in neutral so that had to be turned as well. I dont have the cable installed so I could not have put it in neutral. Still pathetic RE the starter. I have no reservations about buying the stronger starter.