Suby-engined rustoration, 21-Sep-2024 update: more racing-related carnage! Options

[Zaney]

Good to see you up and moving around, Geoff! Here's to a speedy recovery!
Car looks great and is very inspiring to me and others! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Can't wait to see your magic on the Suby mounting!

Heal up quick!

Nate

[strawman]

Been a while since I last posted, but I've been tinkering in the garage...

I'm reversing the intake on my EJ22T engine to permit a bit more room between the throttle body and trunk firewall. It also will permit fewer bends for the intercooler connections.

First off, the 2.0, 2.2 and early 2.5 engines feature the intake-to-head bolt holes in a line, which makes this a relatively straightforward modification. In short, the intake manifold bolts on facing backward or forward, but it ain't quite a bolt-on and walk away affair...

Reversing the intake points the throttle body right at the backside of the alternator. Since I won't be using the air conditioning compressor or power steering pump, I relocated the alternator to where the AC compressor used to sit. Here is a pic of the factory bracket, modified to clear the Idle Air Control solenoid. You can also see where I welded on the alternator mounts and support crossbar.



This took a lot of measuring, cutting, more measuring, grinding, more measuring... you get the idea. But it lines up perfectly with the crank pulley. Here is a pic of the alternator as mounted (I still have to fabricate a top mount).



Here is the front and rear views of the engine, not including the wiring harness, coil or fuel rails/injectors.

[strawman]

I also decided to modify the coolant crossover pipe to remove the rear water heater inlet (I'll pull hot water from near the radiator up front for cabin heat) and to move the two sensors over toward the other cylinder banks to provide clearance for the reversed intake. I probably could've bent the sensor leads down to clear the intake, but I didn't want to stress/damage the sensors. I actually started by modifying the EJ22T turbo coolant pipe by drilling/tapping holes in the factory-supplied bosses, but then realized that the normally-aspirated EJ22 coolant pipe already has the sensors in the correct position. So I picked one up at the local Pick-n-Pull for $10.

The rear water heater inlet is brazed in, so I heated it up slowly and yanked/turned it until it slid out. The hole is the PERFECT size for a 3/8" pipe plug, so I picked up a tap and brass plug from my friendly Ace hardware store. Here is a pic of the tapped hole.



The front water inlet actually bends upward a bit, which puts it relatively close to one of the fuel rail supply lines. I'm sure it would not be a problem to leave it like it is, but I like the idea of nice, cool (non-heated!) fuel. I plan to cut the pipe at its lower point to provide a bit more clearance, and to weld on a "lip" (to help secure the coolant hose). We have an aluminum MIG setup at work, so I'll try my hand at that next weekend -- lucky I now have a spare to practice on! Below you can see the Sharpie line depicting where I'll weld this lip and then cut the pipe.



I plan to pick up some steel this week so that I can begin fabricating the engine/transmission mount next weekend.

I've got what I consider to be some good news for those of you considering the Suby trans. I think Porscharu's magic flanges are a great option, but I don't like the idea of using the relatively weak 100mm CVs, as described elsewhere on this site by Paul Sayegh. I also have two sets of 911 axles with 108mm CVs, so I really want the option of using 108mm 911/930 CVs to work out. Some of the 2WD Subaru Legacy and Impreza models came with huge inner "tripod" joints and very large diameter axle shafts. My micrometer says the Subaru axle shaft is large enough in diameter (1.13") to be cut off at the outer joint and machined/splined to use the 28-spline 930 CV at the wheel end. I'll need to borrow my friend's non-Chinese built calipers to verify. At the very least, the diameter is large enough to have the Suby inner and 911 outer axle shaft ends welded together. If that option doesn't pan out, EMPI sells 930 CVs and custom-length 28-spline axle shafts that can be used as blanks. EMPI also lists the Suby 2WD inner joint as a separate part on their website, so I'll pick up a pair of those for my eventual Frankenaxles.

More to come...

[strawman]

Still been plugging away...

Below are some pics of the shortened water pipe, with the welded lip filed down. That was a major PITA, but the lip should help keep the coolant inlet hose from slipping off. Basically, I welded a "ring" around the water pipe, cut off the pipe on the aft side of the "ring," and then shaped the lip with a file. Probably more than needed, since this pipe is in "suction" and likely wouldn't slip off with a hose clamp... but I have access to an aluminum MIG setup, and I'll sleep better at night knowing the hose can't slip off.



I'm also attaching a couple of pics of the final (almost) alternator setup. You can see the 0.70" spacers I spun on the lathe -- though they're still raw/unfinished -- as well as the upper mount. I still need to clean up the welds of the upper mount, trim the angle iron "connector," polish the spacers, and then paint the whole shootin' match. The belt now lines up perfectly, though I'll need to use a 3-rib belt to match the tensioner; the alternator and outer crank pulley are 4-rib.

[strawman]

Tonite I also welded on the lower passenger side quarter panel that I had to cut off to make the hellhole repairs. The factory panel had some rust "thinning/swiss-cheesing" that required some careful repairs. First off, I sand-blasted the entire backside of the thing, as well as the frontside areas that showed rust bubbles. Then I welded in a couple of very small patches, and carefully tacked in some plugs where the metal was particular thin (read that, where light shined through!).

Here is a pic of the lower piece welded in.



The most difficult part was replacing the compound bend at the forward/lower part that connects with the sill plate (i.e., below the lower rear part of the passenger side door). But I think it came out looking pretty good. I welded that piece to the factory piece on my bench, and ground down the topside welds prior to connecting it. Below is a pic of that repaired area, prior to trimming and smoothing. As you can see, I also need to fill in a couple of spotweld cutter holes with small round patches.



Here is a pic looking back, with a shot of my trusty/cheapo Craigslist welder poking its head in. It is a Clarke EN130 110volt unit using EASYGRIND 0.023" wire and 75% argon / 25% CO2 gas...



This takes quite a while to avoid imparting too much heat -- weld a spot, blow it cold with compressed air until your bare hand feels no heat, move over 5-6" and weld another spot, and repeat a gazillion times. I still need to grind down the welds and take some pics.

[Gint]

Awesome work!

First up is a pic of the jack post welded onto the long, complete with SEM weld-thru primer covering everything. The welds match what the factory did (only along the vertical sides):

What's your opinion of the weld through primer?

[strawman]

Awesome work!

First up is a pic of the jack post welded onto the long, complete with SEM weld-thru primer covering everything. The welds match what the factory did (only along the vertical sides):

What's your opinion of the weld through primer?

It works fine, but you should scrape a small section clean (I used a center punch) to strike the MIG arc. Once the arc begins, you can easily weld through it.

[al weidman]

Geoff, I have tried to find the "easy-grind" wire in Chico and Oroville and they do not carry it. Where do you get yours? I am thinking of doing my rusto outside also. Does the blue tarp keep it dry through the winter? Great job, maybe you could have our Sacramento group over for a visit some Sunday morning. We could run it by Rob. Al.

[strawman]

Geoff, I have tried to find the "easy-grind" wire in Chico and Oroville and they do not carry it. Where do you get yours? I am thinking of doing my rusto outside also. Does the blue tarp keep it dry through the winter? Great job, maybe you could have our Sacramento group over for a visit some Sunday morning. We could run it by Rob. Al.

Hi Al --

I couldn't find Easy-Grind locally either, so I bought a 10 lb. roll online and had it shipped. Google it; shouldn't be too hard to find.

I'd be up for a Sac group meeting, although my garage will pale in comparison to Paul's... any my car is far from perfect. I'm bummed, since I'll miss the next meeting and won't be able to see Paul's setup firsthand.

I put the blue tarp on it when weather is wet/rainy. It is pretty dry in these parts, so I don't cover it all the time and I don't get a lot of flash rust. I try to primer/seal panels as I go to protect the metal, too.

When I'm done with panel replacement work in the coming months, I'll have a rotisserie available for cheap. I think I've got about $100 in it and would be willing to let it go cheap. It breaks down easily and could fit in the back of a pickup or large wagon. Let me know if you're interested.

Geoff

[charliew]

I have never came across a brazed tube in a aluminum casting. On my 02 wrx coolant crossover the tube is pressed in with a sealant it seems. Also the turbo version crossovers are bigger to carry more coolant than the na versions. Grimspeed and others carry a spacer that is to prevent the engine heat from moving into the intake manifold from the head, I think it's a phoenolic material. You can get them in 7mm or maybe 13mm thicknesses. On my son's sti they work great. With the thicker ones you will need longer bolts.

The only way I can get easygrind is either buy a case at 55.00 a roll or for just one 10lb roll it's 66.00 locally.

[strawman]

I have never came across a brazed tube in a aluminum casting. On my 02 wrx coolant crossover the tube is pressed in with a sealant it seems. Also the turbo version crossovers are bigger to carry more coolant than the na versions. Grimspeed and others carry a spacer that is to prevent the engine heat from moving into the intake manifold from the head, I think it's a phoenolic material. You can get them in 7mm or maybe 13mm thicknesses. On my son's sti they work great. With the thicker ones you will need longer bolts.

The only way I can get easygrind is either buy a case at 55.00 a roll or for just one 10lb roll it's 66.00 locally.

Hi Charlie --

Your suggestion that the turbo'd coolant crossover pipes might be true for EJ20 or the 2.5 engines, but it certainly is not true for the EJ22T or EJ22 engine -- the crossover is virtually the same, only with different bosses drilled/tapped for placement of the sensors. At least my naked eye suggests it. Guess I'll have to check it out with my calipers.

You may be right that the heater hose "extension" is pressed in with a sealant -- but I couldn't get it out without heat. That is why I presumed it was brazed...

I have looked at the Grimspeed spacers, and I might end up using them. I like the idea of a cooler intake charge!

Which engine are you using in your Suby conversion? Is your engine ready to go?

Geoff

[charliew]

You can put your hand on my sons sti after driving it and just get out and open the hood and touch the intake with the spacers.
I have some 2.5 na coolant crossovers and the wrx and sti is wider that is what I was going by. I'm pretty sure the 22t only made 160hp.

Well, I sorta have a motor, I have a 02 wrx motor and tranny with 5k on it that I have had a year or so. I went to kansas and bought the most of a front clip out of a wrx that a older man had bought in 02 but passed away before he could use it. It was on nasioc classifieds. I originally got it to put in a dunebuggy. I decided the buggy would be hard to do a radiator and still look nice. while I was getting the motor ready I built a large 8qt short oil pan and a modified ss header that is shorter and bought the outfront alt bracket and belt. I also have a 96 2.0 tt motor and tranny and all the tt stuff that came with it. I also have a 2.5 sti shortblock and a 2.0 closed deck shortblock And many sets of heads that I have found over the past few years. My son hotrods a sti and I have fabbed him a bigger oilpan and some other stuff for his car. A true cold air intake and a enclosed shroud for his front ic, I have also redone his ss ic piping to have fewer sharp turns.

We took the original motor out of his sti at 40k and put in a built motor with a lot of stuff, bigger cams a bigger turbo, ported heads, bigger oilpump, a external oil bypass to adjust oil pressure and modified tumble generator valves on the intake. He is a me and likes to study this stuff and I like to fab hotrod stuff.

I've got all of his old parts that are left over from his upgrades. He will be the one programming the wrx ecu for me in the 914 with open source romraider. I will probably start with the wrx motor but soon will be making a 2.5 with wrx heads and sti cams with a sti turbo. If he goes to a 35r from the 30r turbo I guess I might try that. The 30r makes a reliable 26lbs of boost on his 2.5. We haven't dynoed his car but the hp is around 400-425 awdhp by his 1/4 mile speed and times but he is really tuning it conservitively on 93 pump gas. He is really not a dragracer.

I have put a bremar conversion on the 96 legacy tranny and have bought two obx lsd's to put in both trannys. The 96 is a 4:44 I think and the wrx tranny is a 3:90. Really the 3:90 is probably the best in the 914. I also have two sets of porscharu's flanges for the trannys. I found some new 17 inch boxter wheels and tires from a porsche dealer in Balitmore for 825 shipped, the tires are 25 inches tall. The tires are 8 in the front and 10 in the rear. I will make a cable shifter but I really want to build a sequential shifter. Suby drivers are notorious for getting in the wrong gear on down shifts and breaking ring lands on the pistons and causing other things like spun rod bearings. I will probably use a air to water ic as I think in the 914 that will be the most efficient. I've gotten the 911 front and rear stuff including the emerg. brake stuff and also the aluminum brembos from the alfa romeo milano to use front and rear. I've got the wrx rad. but also found a new custom 1 inch tube two row alum. rad really cheap on ebay. It was for a v8 ford in a toyota truck but it's the perfect size for the 914, 35.00. It also has 1.250 inlet and outlets.

My only problem is the damn house projects that keep piling up. But also the other toys in the shop. I have also been helping my oldest son restore his 72 super beetle I took away from him in 86.

[strawman]

You can put your hand on my sons sti after driving it and just get out and open the hood and touch the intake with the spacers.
I have some 2.5 na coolant crossovers and the wrx and sti is wider that is what I was going by. I'm pretty sure the 22t only made 160hp.

Hi Charlie --

I just ordered a set of the Grimmspeed phenolic spacers... one of those "while I'm in there" purchases.

My EJ22T has a TD05H-16G turbo, topmount charge air intercooler, manual boost control and fuel cut defenser. So I'm hoping to get ~200 hp from that engine, based on "conjecture" on the LegacyCentral website. No matter -- I'm treating that engine as a "prove it can be done" situation, and will replace it with an STI engine down the road.

Good luck with your project!

[strawman]

Had a chance to spend some more quality time with my project this weekend. First off, I received my pre-bent inner suspension console reinforcement kit from Tangerine Racing on Friday, so I welded it in that evening. It fit without any drama; here is a pic of the passenger side:



I also started to make some firewall repairs due to rust-through and to finally patch up the hell-hole repair.





Next up are repairs to the windshield...

[biosurfer1]

Get anything good at the swap meet?

[strawman]

Both lower corners of my windshield are crusty. I picked up driver and passenger side fender/cowl cuts from Derrick (can't remember his 914World name) in Palo Alto. While they had some rust in them, they were in far better shape than my car's.

Here is a pic of the passenger side lower corner:



It took about 90 minutes to carefully cut out the passenger side piece I needed from the donor fender/cowl. It took every tool in my box (air body saw, jigsaw, sawzall, 1/8" cutting wheel on a die grinder, carbide burrs in a die grinder, etc.), and a ton of patience! Here is that piece prior to being fully cleaned up.



Here is the cut-out, followed by the piece rough grinded (I forgot to take a pic of the piece welded-in / pre-grind). I used my friend's spot-welder to tack up the piece along the seam, and my trusty MIG to complete the butt-welds. The lead used by the factory at the cowl/fender seam caused a lot of popping, and the lead flew when I cooled each tack weld with compressed air...





I'll tackle the driver side lower windshield later this week.

All told, I spent about 15 hours this Fri-Sun making these repairs. While the progress is seemingly slow on these little projects, I am heartened that they're done. I can't wait to begin the motor/trans mounting effort, as well as the fender flares project -- but I still have some more rust to deal with.

I went to the Parts Heaven swap meet this morning, and picked up a clean targa top, some spare trailing arms, rear non-defrost window and a rough fiberglass front bumper. There were some incredible cars there, as well as some good deals.

[strawman]

Get anything good at the swap meet?

As stated above (you're quick with your posts!), I got a few things. I forgot to mention that I picked up a set of sway bar reinforcements, as well as new engine lid weld-on mounts.

The bummer is that I just missed out on a fully-adjustable Weltmeister front sway bar for $125. I literally talked to the guy, went to my car to pick up my gloves and when I got back two minutes later, a guy was handing him cash. D'oh!

Did you go? Get anything interesting?

[biosurfer1]

I couldn't make it but Justin (didn't he go with you?) got my a center console with gauges and retractable seat belts.

[charliew]

Strawman I don't know how much studying you've done on the waic stuff but the aussie mag autospeed has some pretty good stuff. Here's one article on the parts for making your own and where to find them if you are not using a kit.

I don't know which year awic suby cooler you have but one they mention is good for 210kw. I'm not good with metric but the conversion is about 1.35hp+1.0kw. I would guess on my simple estimation thats about 260hp

Course then water and or meth injection will cover even more hp increase. They cover that also.

http://autospeed.com/A_107760/cms/article.html

[strawman]

Over the past few weeks, I've been cleaning up and working on the engine, getting it ready to shoehorn in. Suby engines are cheap (especially if you buy a whole parts car and sell off the leftovers!), but it ain't so cheap to buy gaskets and ancillary parts. I replaced all o-rings and assorted gaskets, the water pump, belts and hoses, and had the injectors cleaned/blueprinted by Witchunter. All told, this effort required about $400, but it should ensure a leak-free engine.

I picked up some scrap metal and an electric hoist on Craigslist to build a gantry, as presented below. It is ugly, but it works great for lifting up the engine up to the height of the rotisserie'd tub. However, the rear firewall gets in the way to effectively position the engine exactly where it needs to be, so I built a couple of sawhorses with adjustable-height mechanisms to get the engine where it needs to be. In this scenario, I set the engine at the desired angle and then move the rotisserie'd car where it needs to be. Take a look at the pics: