grind into first, second when hot, after adjusting clutch Options

[VaccaRabite]

If you have a EuroRace header, it has been suggested to relocate the clutch pedal under the header rather then above it. That should help with the heat issues associated. There are a thread on this mod earlier.

Zach

[Dr Evil]

You mean clutch cable, not pedal, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[jasons]

If you have a EuroRace header, it has been suggested to relocate the clutch pedal under the header rather then above it. That should help with the heat issues associated. There are a thread on this mod earlier.

Zach

Do you mean the trick where you rotate the cable stop/pulley mount downward?

Mine is above the header, but the way its routed is pretty clean. It never touches the header and its well insulated.

[orthobiz]

OK. Doc is in medical school. He admits he should be studying. But he's hanging on the board.

So, in a somewhat selfish move, I elect to get the info I need AND contribute to Evil's education.

I'm just a nice guy. what can I say?

Paul

[r_towle]

yo,
da cable be wrong...turn the nut till its right.

Rich

[pete-stevers]

does this issue have anything to do with the heat of the tranny?, or the fluid in the tranny??

[Bleyseng]

Where does the clutch disengage in the pedal stroke? It should dissengauge in the 1st 1/4 of pedal travel. You should have no more than 3/4" of play in the pedal when it is fully out.

Cables do stretch over time, and with heat and you may need a new one. I like the more robust Terry cables.

Has your flywheel ever been machined?

If the flywheel has been machined (most have) the pivot (throwout arm) must be shimmed out correctly too!!

another damn cause of goofy shifting that has to be addressed for everything to work right... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

[pete-stevers]

i was hoping not to drop the motor this winter..again
and maybe just stick to flaring the car for a winters project....
i will tighten the nuts up for now...

[Dr Evil]

If you are running out of thread on the cable end, which is a common occurrence, you can put a small piece of metal tubing on the end of the cable between the wedge block and the adjusting nut.

You do not need to drop the engine to remove the tranny! Its easier not to.

[wertygrog]

not to hijack, but it seems to me with this clutch design, the throwout bearing is ALWAYS pressed up against the pressure plate? And the clutch pedal has a spring that pushes it towards the floor, right? So by free play of 3/4" you mean the pedal only feels resistance from this pedal spring and not any pressure plate action...I think.

I kept tightening the nut until the cable was taut but the TO bearing wasn't starting to compress the PP. The clutch pedal cannot be lifted any more, but does depress about 1/2" before I feel that the PP is starting to be compressed. Am I doing this wrong?

thanks for any help!!

[Dr Evil]

You did the adjustment right, but your theory is off a bit. There is no spring in the clutch pedal assembly itself. The only spring you feel is the spring of the pressure plate. Thus, you tighten the cable to make the TO bearing stay against the plate, but not so tight that it is hard against the plate (as demonstrated by the 3/4-1/2" of wiggle in the pedal).

Is that clearer? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[wertygrog]

yes, thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rufio0205]

i'm glad you guys are hashing this out because i'm going to need to readjust my clutch and shim up the flywheel because it is getting flippin ridiculous to grind gears.

[Dr Evil]

You dont shim the flywheel, you put a washer under the clutch fork pivot ball. You will also need to put some Teflon tape on the pivot ball threads when you shim it as it will leak oil otherwise.
Did your mechanic adjust this for you yet?

[rufio0205]

he adjusted the clutch but i have the same problem when the car has been warmed up...it tends to grind when the car is warm but i experience no problems when the car is cold.

i didnt mean shim the flywheel i meant put the washer under the fork pivot ball. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[rufio0205]

I think your bronze bushing is binding. You can't get clean shifting full left and right of the pattern at the same time because the bushing is limiting the off-axis rotation of the shift rod. The factory plastic bushing is hourglass shaped to prevent binding.

Were talking about the console bushing correct? #55?

where do i get a bronze bushing, and what is the part number?

[Dr Evil]

Thomas, I suspect that your clutch is not adjusted correctly = cable tight enough when cold, too loose when hot. I have posted above how to check it. It is easy and you should have no problem doing it yourself.

When does the clutch disengage in the pedal travel when cold? Hot? I bet they are different.

How much play do you have with in your pedal at the top when cold? Hot? Again, I would bet they are different.

Your cable should be adjusted so that it meets the aforementioned criteria when it is hot. Thus, at its hottest and slackest it should have no more than 3/4" pedal slop and should disengage the clutch in the bottom of the 1st 1/4 of pedal travel.

The bronze bushing at the fire wall is an after market part and is meant to replace #41. James sells these.

[drewvw]

Mine used to do that when my engine ran really hot/lean, even after I adjusted the clutch. I tuned it so it runs rich and operates at about ~210 degrees (oil temp) and it hasn't done it since.


This probably isn't applicable to the situation but...