front seal removal, special tool ? |
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front seal removal, special tool ? |
nycchef |
Sep 5 2008, 01:58 PM
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#1
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
how do you remove the fan hub to get to the front seal? the 914 manual says i need a special tool. i don,t have one, i don,t even know what kid of tool it is or why itis special. any alternatives? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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type47 |
Sep 5 2008, 03:43 PM
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#2
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
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nycchef |
Sep 5 2008, 04:28 PM
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#3
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing. let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward? |
turboman808 |
Sep 5 2008, 04:30 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,718 Joined: 31-January 06 From: North Jersey Member No.: 5,505 Region Association: North East States |
special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
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PeeGreen 914 |
Sep 5 2008, 04:33 PM
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#5
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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nycchef |
Sep 5 2008, 04:36 PM
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#6
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
that's nate he is the poster child for dangerous. |
r_towle |
Sep 5 2008, 05:05 PM
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#7
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,624 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing. let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward? Yes, exactly zactly breath... Rich |
nycchef |
Sep 5 2008, 05:13 PM
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#8
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
[/quote] Yes, exactly zactly breath... Rich [/quote] so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on? |
VaccaRabite |
Sep 5 2008, 07:18 PM
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#9
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,554 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Or, you could go to your FLAPS and get a 3 arm gear puller for like 20 bucks and safely pull it that way.
Zach |
VaccaRabite |
Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
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#10
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,554 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
looks like this, but three arms. I got mine at Autozone.
(IMG:http://www.autozone.com/images/products/grn/grn47016003.jpg) 2 arm version might work as well, but 3 arm adjustable works more better. Zach |
r_towle |
Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
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#11
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,624 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward? QUOTE Yes, exactly zactly breath... Rich QUOTE so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on? Yes, its a tapered fit that gets held in with the single bolt. You can heat it to expand it a bit, but I have never needed to do that. I cant remember the torque specs, but you really dont want to go over that spec...its a threaded hold in the end of the crankshaft.. not cool to futz up. There is also a key, dont loose it. Rich |
r_towle |
Sep 5 2008, 07:23 PM
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#12
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,624 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
the special tool it a flat plate about 3 inches wide with a "U" cut out of the middle. You drop that plate down around the crank and use the bolts to push the hub off.
Rich |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 5 2008, 08:07 PM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n
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nycchef |
Sep 5 2008, 09:47 PM
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#14
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n gonna see if autozone has the tool. started to do it the makeshift way usiing some light metal but the bolt started to go through. got scared, gave up. thanks for the info will let you guys know how it pans out tomorrow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) rich |
VaccaRabite |
Sep 5 2008, 10:27 PM
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#15
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,554 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
make sure you remove the big washer directly behind the bolt before you try pulling it.
Also, get some PB Blaster in a spray bottle and spray it down really good to make the job a little easier. They are under a lot of pressure. The first one I removed literally shot across the room when it finally popped. Make sure that the bolt is threaded in all the way or it will bend. Put the "point" of the puller on the bolt. If you end up bending the bolt, let me know. McMaster sells them in 5 packs. I have 4 of them left over. :-) Zach |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 5 2008, 10:33 PM
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#16
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,048 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Three nice thick fender washers work well. Anything that's decently strong and wide enough to spread out the load is great.
If you have a puller already, you can try that. But washers are cheaper yet than any puller. I think they're also easier in this case, because they'll hold themselves in place with no fussing. --DD |
r_towle |
Sep 5 2008, 10:37 PM
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#17
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,624 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side.. Rich |
nycchef |
Sep 6 2008, 10:20 AM
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#18
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mechanical moron Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None |
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key. That is what I use...one on each side.. Rich special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 6 2008, 01:52 PM
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#19
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key. That is what I use...one on each side.. Rich special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Hope you didn't honk up the end of the case that retains the seal. BTW, be sure to replace the o-ring behind the hub. The Cap'n |
JeffBowlsby |
Sep 6 2008, 02:45 PM
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#20
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,663 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
Do it once, do it right. I bet this tool is still available and I further bet a good P-car or VW parts shop has them.
Try http://baumtools.com/ Attached image(s) |
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