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> Changing motor mounts. DONE!
LeNoah
post Oct 11 2008, 12:11 PM
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Hey gang,

Lookin' for a "how-to", tutorial or just some veterans advice on installing new motor mounts on my '74 2.0.

It appears to be fairly straight forward but never having done it before I know there are always "catches" and thing s to look for. Any advice before I get into this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
LN
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LeNoah
post Oct 11 2008, 01:33 PM
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Anybody? Can you direct me to an article?. Haynes is not helpful.
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LeNoah
post Oct 11 2008, 04:25 PM
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Planning on tackling this tonight. Hoping for a little guidance before then. Nothing like having the car up on stands, in the way of everything and suddenly realizing you can't complete the job due to some missing or broken part or tool. Anybody else been there?
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LeNoah
post Oct 12 2008, 10:16 AM
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What!?!? Nobody wants to give advice? What's this world coming to??
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bdstone914
post Oct 12 2008, 11:34 AM
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QUOTE(LeNoah @ Oct 12 2008, 07:16 AM) *

What!?!? Nobody wants to give advice? What's this world coming to??


I have not actually done it with the engine in the car. We installed an engine recently and we had to swap out a stripped mount before installing the engine. The problem is going to be getting to the top nut on the mount. We had to use a racheting wrench to get to it. You are working blind on the top. You may need to lower the front of the engine a few inches to have any room to work.
Good luck
Bruce
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McMark
post Oct 12 2008, 11:37 AM
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Use a jack/jackstands to support the motor, then remove the engine mount bar completely. Then unscrew the rubber mounts from the engine. You might need to use a socket wrench to hold the nut that screws into the top side of the mount. Why-o-why didn't Porsche weld that nut to the metal bracket?
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LeNoah
post Oct 12 2008, 12:09 PM
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Is that elusive top nut 13mm? Ratcheting wrench sounds like it may be the wat to go for that.
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Dave_Darling
post Oct 12 2008, 01:49 PM
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I think the top nut is 10mm. The hole in the bracket is square, there's a square protrusion that fits into it and keeps the mount from turning when you tighten up the bottom nut.

I remember using the shortest ratchet handle I had, and only being able o get a couple of "clicks" at a time out of it. I also think I removed the oil filter so I could reach my arm in from that side into the area where the top nut of the mount lives.

--DD
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Jax914
post Oct 12 2008, 02:19 PM
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Having just replaced both mounts with the poly ones and the solid bolt - the biggest pain I had was trying to undo those top bolts with nothing to hang on to - the rubber was completely twisted off.

My top nuts were 13mm. A short socket worked the best...
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Brando
post Oct 12 2008, 03:00 PM
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I've had to do a few and the quickest way is with the engine in the car.

1) Get the rear of the car up at least 2 feet and WELL supported (assuming you don't have a lift.

2) Remove the cone set-screw near the firewall coupler and near the gear-selector side of the transmission from the shift linkage rod.

3) With support UNDER THE ENGINE, remove the nuts that hold the engine cross member to the engine mounts on the bottom, and also undo the nuts and bolts that hold the cross member to the supports on the outboard sides of the engine bay (chassis).

4) Remove the shift linkage bar and engine cross member bar. Make sure the engine is still WELL SUPPORTED before doing this.

5) With the smallest box-end wrench or ratcheting box-end wrench, undo the top nuts that hold the engine mounts to the brackets on the engine. You may have to go from the side, turn 1/8th of a turn, flip the wrench, and continue. BE PATIENT. As you loosen the nut on top, be sure to keep a bit of pressure on the bottom of the mount. This prevents the mount from turning as you try to loosen the nut on top.

6) When you have both mounts removed, spray some carb cleaner in the area and wipe it with a rag. Don't look up!

7) Installation is opposite of removal. Be patient, and don't forget to put a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads of the new engine mount.
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SLITS
post Oct 12 2008, 03:38 PM
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I could get a 1/4" rachet in there and have done it a couple of times.
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LeNoah
post Oct 12 2008, 04:20 PM
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Thanks for all the tips guys. Its always good to start out with some knowledge of what to expect. I'll let you know how it goes.
LN
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tommy914
post Oct 12 2008, 11:55 PM
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I remember this being very difficult. I must not of had the right assortment of tools, because I had to move the fan shroud out of the way to get to the top bolts. But, I am possibly the world's worst/slowest mechanic.
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LeNoah
post Oct 13 2008, 10:07 PM
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What a biatch!!!! Never wanna do that again. Thanks for all the hints, the 1/4" drive ratchet was the trick, along with a little weatherstrip adhesive to hold nuts in place.

My fingernails will never come clean, got half a pound of crud in my eyes, neighbors heard new words coming from my garage; but she drives SWEET. No more engine rolling around back there.
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