My Official Project thread, Off to Or-egg-gone we go! Options

[RiqueMar]

Update, only because I'm very excited to have received this photo showing my entirely new and refurbished locks and handles. Cannot wait to get these on the car next-week!

For all those out there looking at re-keying and refinishing your locks and handles, look no-further than @TheCabinetmaker

[RiqueMar]

Reminder - How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. I just realized that my last post mark 1,000 on this build thread. Wow, what a trip.

Based on the fact that I had it running previously I've resigned myself to that the engine not starting is something simple, or that some wire was connected wrong. My mechanic will be back in 2-weeks and I'm almost positive he'll have it working in less-than an hour once he's infront of it. Stepping away from the wiring again, I'm focusing on the 'fun' part of the restoration and yesterday was all-about the rear-window.

I'll be honest, I was a bit-intimidated reading up about the installation at first. For those looking to do the same or a 'How to' guide, the write-up in the Classics Section (Rear Window Fix/Install Step-by-Step, get rid of rattles and leaks - by Eric Shea) will give you everything you need to know. One 'note' I would like to add as the post was created some time ago; The 'rubber mounts' mentioned in Step 5 are now available via 914Rubber (link to their website here > 914Rubber.com). They are the same spacers/rubber mounts used to install the front windshield.

For me, this installation was easy enough. Just like so many other 'finishing items', it's all about prep work. Make sure to clean and prep the chassis window frame, I used a bit of lacquer thinner and followed with odorless mineral-spirits, as well as the glass itself. Also, consider cleaning the body-pieces on either side of the engine bay... This is the easiest it will ever-be. Leave the glass in an easy position to pick-up (it's awkward) and begin to apply the butyl tape. Just like the installation thread, I started in the passenger top-right corner, and began to work my way around. In my opinion, it's not so 'sticky' as much as tacky, and pretty easy to handle. Get it as straight as you can, but also remember it will smush and deform once you press on the glass. Also, expect to have extra tape (maybe 24-inches), and be prepared to cut the tape once you've made the full 'loop'. Final step here is to give it one last 'push' all around to make sure it's making contact, and then remove the paper-backing.

From here, place the rubber spacers (I put mine in the extreme corners of the bottom of the glass) and pick-up the glass. I found it easiest to line up the glass below the frame, and then go directly up and in, resting one-side on the rubber-spacer then the other because there is a channel you have to get into. This will let you make sure the glass is positioned properly, and if you're a bit off, you can still reset the glass because it's not making full-contact with the tape. Don't worry about resetting it, the tape is pretty playable and workable. Once it's exactly when you want it, give constant pressure to the edges of the glass and push it toward the tape. I did this for about 5-minutes, working my way around the glass. If you have OCD, like myself, I also took this opportunity to 'push in' the butyl from the backside using my fingers, so that everything looks uniform. This was easier than 'cutting' any globs that may have formed. Final step is to take black-electrical tape, and apply it at the bottom. This is purely cosmetic.

Some notes I had after completing this...
- I wish I would have painted the body-color strip that is on the bottom-portion of where the glass will sit. Kinda looks weird that it's orange, but I also think that this will get covered by the engine deck lid/rubber molding.
- I wish I would have gone 'higher' and 'lower' when putting on the butyl-tape along the top and bottom. I had to push-in alot of tape once I was done, and looking at the photos I could have applied it better, touching the top-portion of the roll-bar and top-most portion of the firewall.
- Erics write-up specifies putting the VW logo 'readable from the inside', behind the Drivers head. I put it on the opposite, legible from the outside, because that is how the windows are. Doesn't really matter, unless I'm missing something (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
- I don't plan on running a back-pad, so I'm going to look for 'wider' electrical tape.
- All in, this took me about 1.5 hours, including the prep work to the frame and cleaning the glass.

[Curbandgutter]

Rique you're doing fantastic work! Wow.

[RiqueMar]

@Curbandgutter - Thank you. Just reviewed your thread again, and I'm sorry to hear that you were so-down, but very glad to hear that you are back at it. Stay strong and healthy, hoping your project brings you that extra bit off inspiration and health.

[RiqueMar]

Taking a short break after today and yesterday before I get back on the project, and thought I would update this build-thread. Yesterday was all about the heater-blower system. I didn't notice (mostly because I never needed it in Southern CA) however, the wiring and system that was in the last car didn't have the blower exactly 'functioning'. Also, reviewing photos yesterday on this same thread, I see the soft-tubes that connect the HEs to the body weren't even installed. I'de like to take this car everywhere, and even have a dream to do a European tour one day, so this is a 'must have'.

Reading through the wiring diagrams, the Bowlsby-site is invaluable for something like this (Link to the Bowlsby site here)) and even more so, as my original relay-board has been deleted, forcing me to come up with my own-scheme that includes a relay and fuse solution. If you reference the first-photo showing the 14-pin connector that plugs into the relay board, you'll notice that there are two-leads, #9 and #11, associated with the heater switch (the lever in the cabin) and the blower that is in the engine bay, the second image shows the 'stock setup' that lists both fuse and relay. The solution I used was to install a 14-pin connector, and make the 'Ground' for the relay correspond to the heater-switch, as when its 'ON' it grounds Pin 85 on the relay, turning the system on. Also, I moved the 'hot lead' to correspond to the ignition, it didn't make sense to me that the fan would be running with the engine-off.

Additionally, as I'de like to later install another fan on the passenger-side, both providing more air-flow and making the engine bay look cleaner (no heater-hoses running up and over the engine), I left another relay for another fan in the future. If I end-up not going this direction, I like knowing that I have another relay there that I can turn on either with a signal from one of the existing leads, or 'piggy-back' on the leads originally meant for the tach, fuel-pump, etc. One more thing, I also added in in-line fuse to the fan. Though I'm thinking that if I add more equipment later, I'll add a fuse block or wiring box, like in the front trunk. Maybe I'm overthinking it, thats enough for now.

Happy Sunday everyone, back to work for me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[RiqueMar]

Continuing on yesterday, I was able to get the pedal system completely hooked-up.

For those 'newbies', a warning/recommendation; This isn't necessarily fun or easy, but is a vital skill to have for basic maintenance / roadside repairs. Almost every event that I've been to, someone has either had a clutch or accelerator cable break or had to make an adjustment on the side of the road / at the hotel. It's something you need to know as a 914-owner.

I'm only going to generally describe connecting the cables to the transmission or throttle, because my car and drivetrain (964 3.6 and 915 trans) is most likely not the norm, nor is my cable setup (Clutch cable unknown / Accelerator cable from Patrick Motorsports). First time installation is easy enough as you probably won't have the pedal board in yet. For me, it easiest to run your cables through the center tunnel (there are tubes inside the center tunnel for clutch and accelerator) BEFORE hooking them up to the throttle or clutch, but there are several ways to start. NOTE: At the 'Drivers end' of the center tunnel is an access window. I don't usually use it, but it might make things easier reaching into the tunnel.

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For the accelerator: You can start either in the engine bay and pull the cable through the sheet metal OR start halfway, beginning below the car and feeding the cable into the tunnel and then under the engine through the sheet metal. I started halfway and fed the accelerator cable through the tunnel first. Once it's all the way through, move to the pedal area and you should find the cable laying on the floor of the tunnel, close to where the drivers heel will be. Mine was a bit elusive this time around, but you'll get it. Once through, place the 'ball end' connector and locking nuts on, and connect it to the lever on the right-side of the pedal cluster.

You should notice that the 'lever' has two ball-ends; One ball-end is for the cable which faces the passenger side of the car (described in the previous paragraph) and the other is used for a small rod that has a ball-end on the pedal cluster side and a rounded end that fits into the back of your accelerator. I usually wait until the clutch cable is hooked up to install the rod and accelerator, it makes working down there much easier.

For the clutch: First, I slide the clutch cable into the tube at the firewall, and it should exit out the tube near the pedal cluster, just like the accelerator. It's easy cross the cables when hooking them up, so make sure they aren't tangled, because this will give you 'revs' when you're trying to shift. Typically, because it has a longer threaded-end, the clutch cable it easier to find. Before you put on the clevis that connects it to the pedal cluster, put on a nut to make sure it doesn't move (I actually use two). Push the clevis so that either end is on the outside of the pedal connection, and then put your locking pin in, and it should 'swing' and lock-against the cable.

At this point, you need to decide whether-or-not to put your pedal board and accelerator. This part is pretty easy and self-explanatory, but I will say that it is much easier without the accelerator pedal in-place.

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Now, we move back to the transmission and engine. Make sure the cables aren't crossed, and route them to their appropriate connections before securing them to the bottom of the engine with a hose clamp or similar piece of hardware. For the clutch on the 915, it's pretty easy to connect as it simply needs the clutch-stop piece put on, goes through the pulley, and then has another pin and clasp to finish up. All shown in the photo.

For the accelerator, and connecting to a 3.6, it's a little more tricky. I had to feed the cable up and through the 914/6 sheetmetal and route it while trying to keep it clear of all the fuel-injection hoses and wires. Patience here, it took me the better part of 30 minutes to make sure nothing was tangled or wrapped around an engine hard-fuel line. Once past the initial cluster of wires and cables, the cable will go through a zinc-plated bracket located on the intake manifold, just below the throttle body (photo attached, circled in red). You should find that the cable has a rubber grommet that secures it to the intake manifold. The grommet isn't so-much a problem, but it can get tight working in there. Give yourself plenty of light and space, and take your time. From there, and once secure on the grommet the cable will go through an 'arm' that controls the throttle position.

While you'll still have to adjust both cables to get the proper throttle and clutch response, thats a post for another time. For now, congratulations, you're done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[RiqueMar]

I knew I was going to be traveling recently, so I used this opportunity to have the painter touch-up a few areas on the car and re-spray the trunk since it had a bunch of holes from the original mounting of the ECU. Main concern was a small rust-bubble on the passenger side 'sail', and a spot behind the original paint-code tag. Glad this was the least of my problems, and that we sand-blasted the car before paint. I'm fortunate that we arranged for the painter to come to my house to do much of the 'prep', and then towed the car out to my Fathers ranch to get painted while I was away in Vegas.

Though it's not 100% complete yet, I was able to stop-by yesterday and check-out the progress. I've posted some before and afters and am very happy with how it's progressing. Great that this can still move-forward even when I'm not working on it. I'm hoping to have it completed in the next few days!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[RiqueMar]

Re-reading my thread from the start I made it to about page-17 when I came to a realization. I suppose I came to a point that everyman arrives to at some-time... "Wow.... I really didn't know what the hell I was doing..."

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Anyway, moving on from that I've been plugging along as the car was getting prepped and focused on bleeding the brakes, setting the e-brake cables and setting the proper venting-clearance on the rotors.

For venting the rotors, check out this thread that I started > Thread Here

As for bleeding the brakes, something that was left unclear to me from various threads - bleeding the Master Cyl. (MC). If you have a new MC, or a substantially new or refurbished brake-system make sure to bleed your MC. This was unclear to me before, and when I changed from 21mm to 19mm it gave me a few problems when bleeding my brakes. @iankarr has a great video on this, and it's pretty straight-forward >Video Link Here

As for bleeding the brakes, I also referenced another video from @iankarr ( Video link here ) because I purchased the same power-bleeder. I won't go into a whole explanation, because the video is pretty clear, though I will leave some notes that I found useful. I'm sure that I made ALL the mistakes and had the worst-luck while doing this, so check out my list below...

- If you're unfamiliar with this watch Ians video a few times. Good? Now watch it again.
- Before you start, have extra towels and water ready. Have MORE than enough, and stage them around your car. This will be handy if you spill.
- Most important: Make sure your brake-fluid reservoir is solid with no leaks or cracks and same for your lines and such. I had just started bleeding the system the first-time, only to find a 'crack' in the reservoir just above the plated retaining strap. Very annoying to stop what you're doing, get a turkey-baster/syringe, drain the system, install a new reservoir, and start all over. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Further, it becomes very messy and stressful, especially with all that brake-fluid around.
- Check. Your. Reservoir. Lines!. This relates to the above point. I found that, in addition to the crack I had lines that were completely deteriorated. Suggest that everyone buy new rubber brake hose to connect the reservoir to the lines and new hose-clamps. (Link to brake-lines here)
- My system had already been bled before with blue brake-fluid. As it still had fluid in the system I found this helpful because when the new, clear, fluid came through I could visually tell that the system had been 'flushed'.
- If you're bleeding your brakes after a restoration or major swap (new calipers / MC), make sure to first bleed the MC, then add more fluid before bleeding your brakes. I made a similar mistake, and when bleeding the brakes let the reservoir run dry and had to start over.
- Some call it an urban myth, but I found it helpful to tap the brakes and brake-lines while bleeding. I think the vibrations help get out any 'stuck' air-pockets.
- I brought the pressure on the power-bleeder up to 7.5 PSI, and had no problem.
- My car has early 'S' brakes. If you have the same or similar 'big brakes' you need to bleed both-sides of the caliper. Order is still the same as bleeding 'stock' brakes, though with a minor adjustment; Right-rear caliper, Left-rear caliper, Right-front inner caliper, Right-front outer caliper, Left-front inner caliper, Left-front outer caliper.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[iankarr]

Glad the videos helped. And tapping the calipers isn't a myth at all. There are lots of places for bubbles to hide. If you're replacing the calipers, do whatever you can to shake them out. Drive back and forth over railroad tracks a few times (once the car has a firm enough pedal to hit the road). There are a few other things I should've highlighted more in the videos

– Brake fluid will ruin your paint. Seriously. And Fast. Maybe in less than 30 seconds. And it's not something that compounds out. Make sure you have a way to rinse off any that gets where it's not supposed to go before you mess with it.

– Per Eric Shea at PMB, freshly rebuilt calipers need a little time to break-in before the pedal becomes as firm as it will get. The new seals pull on the pistons a bit and they need to relax.

I'm making a full brake line and caliper video for my BB build. Coming soon!

[RiqueMar]

Glad the videos helped. And tapping the calipers isn't a myth at all. There are lots of places for bubbles to hide. If you're replacing the calipers, do whatever you can to shake them out. Drive back and forth over railroad tracks a few times (once the car has a firm enough pedal to hit the road). There are a few other things I should've highlighted more in the videos

– Brake fluid will ruin your paint. Seriously. And Fast. Maybe in less than 30 seconds. And it's not something that compounds out. Make sure you have a way to rinse off any that gets where it's not supposed to go before you mess with it.

– Per Eric Shea at PMB, freshly rebuilt calipers need a little time to break-in before the pedal becomes as firm as it will get. The new seals pull on the pistons a bit and they need to relax.

I'm making a full brake line and caliper video for my BB build. Coming soon!

@iankarr - Thank you Señor Ian, keep them coming! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Work continues - Very happy with how all the final cut and polishing is going! Making sure everything matches, we started putting on the front and rear hoods. Only hiccup I ran into is the Camp914 Hood shocks. It seems like it takes WAY too much force to push the hood-down and, when I moved the mounting point for the hood to the bolt that is 'closer' to the Driver, the geometry of the setup causes the shock to run out of room before the hood is completely flat AND not lift completely. This would made refueling impossible. If I remember correctly, this was a pretty-popular kit, so I think I'm getting something wrong. Any input is appreciated, but for now, I'm going to order the 914Rubber hood-springs as a 'backup' and leave the hood without the shocks so I can align all my gaps, and get this thing on the road!

On another note, I fall in love each time this car gets polished. As popular as it is, 'Signal Orange' is the color these cars are supposed to be. Go ahead.... Try and change my mind! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[RiqueMar]

I have a trunk.... it's even got a lid.... and trunk-shocks.... and even a wiring harness and hardware! That is all... carry on please (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[eric9144]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Getting close!!

[ClayPerrine]

Enrique,

You have the the oil breather system plumbed wrong. The oil breather is an integral part of the intake system. If you leave it like this, you are going to have oil leaks.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9478-1617726247_thumb.jpg)

The one on the filler neck goes to the fitting on the top of the engine case. The one directly on the tank goes to the intake elbow that is between the air flow meter and the throttle body. That makes the oil system part of the air intake system, lowers emissions and prevents oil leaks.

However, the 964 used a way different oil tank from the 911 or the 914-6. So to make a 3.6 work with the 914-6, you have to add a restrictor in the line from the throttle body elbow and the oil tank. The restrictor is from a 3.2 Carrera motor, Part number 930-107-289-00. If you don't put the restrictor in, you won't be able to check the oil.


Pelican LInk on the restrictor

If you need pictures, let me know.

Clay

[RiqueMar]

Enrique,

You have the the oil breather system plumbed wrong. The oil breather is an integral part of the intake system. If you leave it like this, you are going to have oil leaks.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-9478-1617726247_thumb.jpg)

The one on the filler neck goes to the fitting on the top of the engine case. The one directly on the tank goes to the intake elbow that is between the air flow meter and the throttle body. That makes the oil system part of the air intake system, lowers emissions and prevents oil leaks.

However, the 964 used a way different oil tank from the 911 or the 914-6. So to make a 3.6 work with the 914-6, you have to add a restrictor in the line from the throttle body elbow and the oil tank. The restrictor is from a 3.2 Carrera motor, Part number 930-107-289-00. If you don't put the restrictor in, you won't be able to check the oil.


Pelican LInk on the restrictor

If you need pictures, let me know.

Clay

@ClayPerrine - Señor Clay, thanks for the heads-up! I was actually thinking to connect the port on the oil-tank to a breather, would that not suffice? I'll check out the link you sent, and will never say 'No' to photos. Much appreciated!

[RiqueMar]

This weekend was measured not in progress, but in photos! Alot of work done, hoods on, and the car 'buffed' out. To avoid rock-chips on the car, we added chip-guard and went over that with three-coats of paint. Very happy with how it all turned out, you cannot even see it if you are over 5-feet away!

As the car sat for so-long I was worried about flex and alignment, especially when it came to door and hood gaps. Fortunately, it seems like my anxiety was mis-placed as all my gaps are even! The one area I'm having a problem with is the passenger-side headlight - it seems the assembly and cover have so much adjustment, it was giving me a headache to get it all-right yesterday and trying to mount the 'eye-brow' pieces that go below the headlight assembly are no picnic either. If anyone has a recommendation on how to easily install the grommets, it would be much appreciated.

For now, I'll leave the readers with some of my favorite photos as the car is getting assembled. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[RiqueMar]

[Cairo94507]

Very nice Enrique. It won't be long before you are behind the wheel for real. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[RiqueMar]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Getting close!!

Very nice Enrique. It won't be long before you are behind the wheel for real. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

@eric9144 @Cairo94507 - Thanks gentleman, hoping to hold a candle next to your cars! I was anticipating I would make WCR, but I just wasn't able to put in those extra-couple of weekends to finish in time. Oh well, next year!

[RiqueMar]

Hey everyone! Looking for some feedback or direction regarding adjusting the position of the headlight assembly and painted 'cover' that goes on top. As it sits currently, the Drivers side is perfect with all of the gaps (Hood, Headlight cover, Fender) lining up, and a good amount of clearance between the hood and head-light cover (both on the 'top' line of the cover and the side facing the hood. However, I'm having trouble on the passenger-side and am looking for a method that other members might use, besides those listed in the manual.

To me, it seems like there is SO much adjustment I just can't get it right and 'lined-up', and I feel that the headlight cover is too-close to the hood, both on the side and the top. Further, it seems like the 'gap' between the fender and headlight cover is larger than the Drivers side. Finally, complicating the whole-matter are the 'eye-brows' - should I put these on first and then adjust based on those lines? If so, it makes adjusting the headlights harder. Thanks in advance to anyone reading this who can help-out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[Root_Werks]

That's looking like a 914 again, nice!

Headlight adjustments are a PITA. Most 914's I can get gaps pretty even, but some there seems to be nothing you can do and some gaps are just off a bit.

Takes time, opening and closing the hood a hundred times, tiny adjustments repeat...