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> My Official Project thread, Shakedown Driving
RiqueMar
post Jan 25 2012, 01:12 AM
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I'm jumping into this project with both feet!

Took off both the front and rear trunk lids and deck lids today, as to better access everything. Man is it easier to work like that, and I don't have to worry about any paint scratches and such!



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Jumping right into it, it seems to me that the intake was flipped upside-down, and I'm not sure why. It looks as though it would fit the original way, and the way it sits now, it is loose and incorrect, as it looks like it should be bolted to the manifold by a bracket or directly, I believe how i have it positioned below is the correct way. Should I need to, for space management, I think i can also flip around the injection system, but I'll have to look more into that.



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My main concern are the unfinished items with the engine, such as the oil/fuel lines that are not a single piece, the extra/unkept wiring with leads that are just hanging out, and the (what seems to be) lengthened tube that leads to the air intake.


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RiqueMar
post Jan 25 2012, 01:14 AM
Post #602


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Regarding the air intake, is it possible that the lengthened tube is causing the engine to run rich?



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RiqueMar
post Jan 26 2012, 12:23 AM
Post #603


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Continued work on the car today, trying to completely understand a few things, and I'm a bit stuck on a few items, such as oil breathers. Currently, the car has two oil breathers, one near the oil tank in the front, and one where the battery would normally be, that is connected to (what I believe to be) the 'puke' reservoir, and it is the end of the line as far as oil is concerned as the system ends there

If I can, I'de like to eliminate one of these. In the first photo, you can see the breather, and in the second, you can see the reservoir I'm referring to just above where the relay board would be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



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It's obviously very good quality, and I think from Patrick Motorsports, but do I need this 2nd breather? I drained it today, and it seems that there wasn't that much. If I do keep it, you better believe the fittings will be changed to AN, as right now, it was only hose with clamps over the plumbing thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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oldschool
post Jan 26 2012, 03:13 AM
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Looks very cool dude.....u most be 1/2 Mexican .....I'm Mexican Jew. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

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SLITS
post Jan 26 2012, 08:09 AM
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External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.
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JmuRiz
post Jan 26 2012, 09:21 AM
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Someone wiser than me would have to say weather it's needed to have a breather/catch-can at the front (with the oil tank) AND the back (with the engine).

PS: Keep me in the loop when/if you want to get rid of the tank and/or one of the breather/catch-cans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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RiqueMar
post Jan 26 2012, 09:51 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Jan 26 2012, 06:09 AM) *

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.


Awesome Ron, I will be running a stock /6 tank, so I'm going to do exactly that. Connect the line from the center of the engine to the stock tank, and then the other to one of the breathers. Essentially, if I can eliminate one of the three breathers, I'm very happy. Now, it still remains to be seen if all this can be done, because it all depends on whether or not I can get rid of the modified tank up front.

Furthermore, I'm not sure what the blue canister with the silver top in this photo is? It does have a lead to it, maybe a sensor of some kind?

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AZ914
post Jan 26 2012, 03:47 PM
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Yeah, what Ron said. I have the stock tank location and no external breathers on my 3.2. It just vents to the intake.
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SLITS
post Jan 26 2012, 05:21 PM
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QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 26 2012, 07:51 AM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Jan 26 2012, 06:09 AM) *

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.


Awesome Ron, I will be running a stock /6 tank, so I'm going to do exactly that. Connect the line from the center of the engine to the stock tank, and then the other to one of the breathers. Essentially, if I can eliminate one of the three breathers, I'm very happy. Now, it still remains to be seen if all this can be done, because it all depends on whether or not I can get rid of the modified tank up front.

Furthermore, I'm not sure what the blue canister with the silver top in this photo is? It does have a lead to it, maybe a sensor of some kind?

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Trying seeing if there is a name on it. If it's Oberg ... it's a micro-screen filter with warning light.

In either case I can see it gets power and is grounded.
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RiqueMar
post Jan 27 2012, 12:57 AM
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Thanks Ron! It really was a help! I actually removed that 2nd breahter above where the relay board would be and it's empty... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I'm hoping to have as much space as I can in the engine bay area to keep it neat and organized should I have to work on something in there.

Continuing on with the progress (I'm trying to get in a few hours each day), I've moved the two cars next to one another, and I'm preparing to start taking components off for wrinkle black powder coat next week; sheet metal, a few plates that I plan to fab up to organize all the electronics, etc.


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As for today, my Father and I lifted up the car to try to resolve the shifting issue the 915 had before, and actually fixed it successfully! And by 'We fixed it' I mean I sat in the car and went through the gears as my Father actually addressed the problem. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)


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While under the car, I discovered it is actually equipped with Koni adjustables in the rear, so I may bring them over to my car as well.


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RiqueMar
post Jan 28 2012, 01:43 AM
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I'm not too familiar with FI systems and I always worry about fuel hose, especially with a system of this magnitude.

I drained the fuel today, and was able to take out the tank, and decide where I'm going to put the fuel pump. Does this fuel hose look good to everyone? I also have a set of Tangerine Racing SS lines, but I'll need to check to make sure the diameters are the same, wouldn't want to starve the engine of fuel.


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RiqueMar
post Jan 29 2012, 11:11 AM
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I was able to stay late yesterday and get the car on the 2 post lift we have at our other shop! We had to push it across to the other building with a Dually (who says big ugly bumpers aren't good for anything?) but man, what an easier way to work on the car! This is the first time I've really gotten under the thing to check everything out!

I was able to shut off my phone for a few hours and just work on the car. I think I made a rather big impact, because I got the entire exhaust off, the shift linkage, and started cleaning. Getting ready to head out now, and I'de like to get the engine drained of oil today, and drop everything so I can take off the bits that I'm sending to powder coat.


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RiqueMar
post Jan 29 2012, 02:08 PM
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Currently draining the oil; note to self, there is ALOT of oil! Lol.

Quick question for you daily drivers/occasional AX guys, I have what looks to be solid mounts on the trans, should I keep them? Or should I go the route of more conventional mounts?


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RiqueMar
post Jan 29 2012, 07:28 PM
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Engine is out! It came with a few 'surprises' too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


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RiqueMar
post Jan 31 2012, 10:24 AM
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Cleaning.... cleaning..... cleaning..... Trying to get this thing ready for RRC, I spent about 6 hours last night just scrubbing the gunk off the engine, trans, and sheet metal. At one point, I got 'bored' a started cleaning only half the transmission just to see the difference...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)



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RiqueMar
post Jan 31 2012, 10:26 AM
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A question for you later engine guys, can I powder coat the valve/exhaust covers?


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mepstein
post Jan 31 2012, 12:38 PM
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Are you using heat exchangers?
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RiqueMar
post Jan 31 2012, 01:38 PM
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After market, but yes. The HE's I'm using were on there before.
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mepstein
post Jan 31 2012, 06:36 PM
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QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 31 2012, 02:38 PM) *

After market, but yes. The HE's I'm using were on there before.


Watcha doing with the ones from the other six?

Check out post #52. April 20th is coming up......again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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RiqueMar
post Feb 3 2012, 10:50 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 31 2012, 04:36 PM) *


Watcha doing with the ones from the other six?

Check out post #52. April 20th is coming up......again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Oooooh, I see what you're getting at, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I'll see, they may go on the old man's /6, I should know within the month.




I'm been plugging away at the 3.6 project.... wires, wires, and more wires. Although everything on the car worked, I think the wiring and harnesses need a bit of work when it comes to running and routing them. I'll need to replace a bit of this 'Boat Cable' as well... oh, the things you find in a 914..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

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