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> Resurrecting EVIL !
scotty b
post Feb 17 2009, 06:29 PM
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rust free you say ?
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Yup it's time for THAT thread. Here's what we start with


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slackin' at work
post Feb 20 2009, 02:58 PM
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i should be working
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you're a brave man, scotty.

I have a "nice" tr6 needing some work when your done with the docs car.
however it is NOT from CA.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Feb 20 2009, 03:06 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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This is so weird to me, having someone else doing the work on my car. Its a real change as I always do everything except body and paint.
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pete-stevers
post Feb 20 2009, 04:49 PM
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saved from fire!
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lookin good so far, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Feb 20 2009, 06:30 PM
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I removed the oil tank tonight. I had to cut it out as the frame twisted enough to make it impossible to remove normally (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) It was not a big deal. I tried to pull the wiring harness so that I could check and fix anything, but the center tunnel was so bent and the /6 mount being in the way made it a job I am going to need Scotty to do. The mount needs to be removed at least. I am thinking of towing it down next weekend. I can get a tow dolly for free supposedly and I have a tow package on my VUE. I just need to install the trailer wiring.
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Justinp71
post Feb 20 2009, 10:14 PM
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Are you going to do the same body/ tire package as before? I think it was a narrow bodied w/rolled fenders and 16 or 17's...
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Dr Evil
post Feb 20 2009, 11:07 PM
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Ya, same package. 17x 7.5 front, and 17x 9 in the rear.
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scotty b
post Feb 21 2009, 09:33 AM
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rust free you say ?
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[quote name='Solo914' date='Feb 19 2009, 10:00 PM' post='1135983']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 19 2009, 04:02 PM) *</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Guys I don't give a damn what your paint rep says DO NOT PAINT OVER FLASH RUST !!! This is what happens. I stripped close to half of this hood with a razor blade. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) The larger pieces are just a few that came off that way. Two are upside down so you can see the rust attatched to the paint. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
[/quote]


Alright, so whats your recommendation, wirebrush, rustmort(conversion), metal etch primer and then go from there???

Just curious, as it looks like I am taking on the painting of my dad 911sc as a side project.

Kyle
[/quote]

Sand, metal etch primer, sealer, bondo, sealer, paint. I start stripping with 36 grit to speed things up, then finish sanding the panle clean with 80 grit. IMO 36 is too much gouge to start painting over. I like to knock that down with the 80. Etch primer is the BEST way but to keep costs down you can use the now popular epoxy primer. just talk to your paint rep about which product he recommends over top of bare metal. If the panel sits bare for a while make sure to run over it again wiuth the 80 grit on a da.
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Dr Evil
post Feb 23 2009, 03:24 PM
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Looking at a possible trip down this Sat to drop off the wreck. I have teh VUE wired up for towing, now and this weekend is free (minus gas and lodging fees (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ).
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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 06:55 PM
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FOUND IT !!! there's ALWAYS one somewhere. This time it was tucked into the far back end of the drivers long (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 06:57 PM
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I hit the rusty spots on the floor with a wire brush, went over the whole thing with 150 grit, etched, and sealed it. Drivers rear will need some metal in it.


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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 06:59 PM
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Interesting door mod I unearthed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) TOO MUCH BONDO KIDS !!! there are no signs of any physical damage so I tend to believe the oil cans in the door are due to the brazing


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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 07:01 PM
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These are the 2 oil cans in the door. I tried to find an angle that shows it best, but there wasn't any really good shot. It is actually a bit werse than it looks here.


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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 07:03 PM
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After a little help from my friends


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scotty b
post Feb 25 2009, 07:04 PM
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The remnants of 3 hours of my day. I didn't get any pics but I also stripped the roll bar ( one big dent ) both sail panels ( no issues ) and the cowl ( no issues )


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Dr Evil
post Feb 25 2009, 10:13 PM
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This pleases me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Feb 26 2009, 07:49 AM
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En Garde!
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By the way, I'm cleared for Saturday morning wrecker loading duties. I'll meet you at your place at 9. If Scott has not already mailed it, just have him give you the 12 pin connecter I need for my car's engine harness.


Zach
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FourBlades
post Feb 26 2009, 10:20 AM
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From Wreck to Rockin
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Scotty,

Can you give us some tips on shrinking with the torch? Like how big an area
do you heat, how do you know it is hot enough to quench? How many times
did you heat it and quench it?

I never really could shrink my door dents as much as I wanted.

What was the red stuff you put on the floors?

Thanks,

John
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Dr Evil
post Feb 26 2009, 10:57 AM
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When you say "oil cans in the door", is that slang? What does it mean?
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Dr Evil
post Feb 26 2009, 11:44 AM
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Tow dolly has been reserved and will be picked up at 9am on Sat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Looks like the wreck is on its way down.
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davesprinkle
post Feb 26 2009, 12:43 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Feb 26 2009, 08:57 AM) *

When you say "oil cans in the door", is that slang? What does it mean?

It's a flaw in a sheetmetal panel caused by being stretched. Typically located in a large, predominantly flat section (like a door panel). Its name refers to its behavior when pushed -- it will pop in or pop out, much like the bottom of an oil squirt-can. Fixing an oil can dent properly requires that the metal be shrunk. (Or you can go with the "trailer" fix -- just pop it in and mud it up.)
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