VOX Subaru Swap build Options

[dlo914]

Did you guys prep the metal before you put the por15 down? Ospho? Metal Ready?
If not, you'll have surface rust bubble through in no time.


Anyways, glad to see another one saved!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Andy

I didnt know about that. What brand of Ospho or Metal Ready should we use? And that means we have to grind away the first layer of Por-15 and then apply the Ospho or metal ready, right? Thanks for the help...oh yeah lemme enter this VIN# into our database.

[SirAndy]

Did you guys prep the metal before you put the por15 down? Ospho? Metal Ready?
If not, you'll have surface rust bubble through in no time.


Anyways, glad to see another one saved!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Andy

I didnt know about that. What brand of Ospho or Metal Ready should we use? And that means we have to grind away the first layer of Por-15 and then apply the Ospho or metal ready, right? Thanks for the help...oh yeah lemme enter this VIN# into our database.

Por15 does not interact with the rust, it just seals it off. Unless the metal is spotless, the rust will eventually work it's way through the Por15 again. It just slows it down.

I prepped all my metal with Metal Ready, which chemically turns the rust. Others have used Ospho with good results.
Once that is dry (you should wipe off all excess), apply a layer or three of Por15.

Also, i would not use black Por15 again if i had to do it all over again. You can't see anything on black. Their silver would have been a much better choice in spotting cracks and such.

And lastly, Por15 is a bitch to prep for paint, so don't use it anywhere you might want to add real paint later.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy

[dlo914]

Did you guys prep the metal before you put the por15 down? Ospho? Metal Ready?
If not, you'll have surface rust bubble through in no time.


Anyways, glad to see another one saved!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Andy

I didnt know about that. What brand of Ospho or Metal Ready should we use? And that means we have to grind away the first layer of Por-15 and then apply the Ospho or metal ready, right? Thanks for the help...oh yeah lemme enter this VIN# into our database.

Por15 does not interact with the rust, it just seals it off. Unless the metal is spotless, the rust will eventually work it's way through the Por15 again. It just slows it down.

I prepped all my metal with Metal Ready, which chemically turns the rust. Others have used Ospho with good results.
Once that is dry (you should wipe off all excess), apply a layer or three of Por15.

Also, i would not use black Por15 again if i had to do it all over again. You can't see anything on black. Their silver would have been a much better choice in spotting cracks and such.

And lastly, Por15 is a bitch to prep for paint, so don't use it anywhere you might want to add real paint later.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy

Cool...we went with Por-15 black b/c i had a pint leftover from my previous 914. There's this other rust preventer that was mentioned on this site, but i dont remember what it is. I PM'd TonyAKAVW for the name since i recall him being the one who used it and said he prefers it over Por-15.

Thanks again Andy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[dlo914]

Will be picking up a powerplant tomorrow for a smoking deal, b/c the engine importer i normally go to is going out of business. Lets hope that engine is still there. :crosses fingers:

[VOX]

so after we put everything away last weekend, i closed front hood, and now i cant seem to get it open. any ideas on how to get it open? the pull lever inside isn't working.

[flippa]

There is a hole in the center of the front panel that is in front of the hood latch mechanism where the cable attaches. This is visable in one of your pics.

You can reach in the hole with a screwdriver & pop the lid open.

[flippa]

WTF???!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) I just re-read my own post & it doesn't make any sence.

Sorry for the lousy description: I could show you how to do it better than I can explain how to do it.

Look in the hole & you will see where the cable end attaches to the arm on the latch mechanism. Get the screwdriver on the passanger side of the arm & move it towards the drivers side of the car. This should release the hood & it will pop up.

[VOX]

Thanks flippa!, i'll give it a try this weekend.

[dlo914]

Cool! We'll try that this weekend, when we resume rusteration.

[dlo914]

We have powerplant: EJ22 (pretty light engine)
(IMG:http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/danlo830/IMG_00601.jpg)
(IMG:http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/danlo830/IMG_00591.jpg)
(IMG:http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/danlo830/IMG_00611.jpg)

[dlo914]

Can't wait to resume rust-oration on the 914 this weekend. Also James and i have decided that we're gonna use the Small Peformance engine mount since it can be used for an assortment of Subaru engines, and we plan to upgrade the engine later on to a turbo'd EJ25T or EJ20T.

[toon1]

The more I see these subie swaps, the more I think I should have gone that route.

[dlo914]

The more I see these subie swaps, the more I think I should have gone that route.

This might veer you even more to the Suby route, a friend's engine importing shop is going out of business. And the EJ22 you see up above we picked it up for $250 out the door and he's got a few other EJ20 non-turbo and 1 other EJ22 non turbo.

[toon1]

The more I see these subie swaps, the more I think I should have gone that route.

This might veer you even more to the Suby route, a friend's engine importing shop is going out of business. And the EJ22 you see up above we picked it up for $250 out the door and he's got a few other EJ20 non-turbo and 1 other EJ22 non turbo.

If my t-4 engine was not so fresh, I'd go this route, $250 is a sweet deal. Maybe in the future.

[Zaney]

Deals are out there!
I picked up a 2002 Suby 2.5L N/A motor, 5-speed Suby Trans, and complete wiring harness w/ECU $600!

But, that's the cheap part of the build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Good luck!

[dlo914]

We've also thought about using the Subaru transmission, but not sure how to fab the shifting linkages that are required to adapt it to the the 914.

[VOX]

so opening the front hood, screwdriver worked great. thanks.

another question, whats the best way to remove the old paint? i hear the use of aircraft paint removal to be the best, but im worried it would leave residue and once i paint over it, it would ruin the finish. is there a different bit that would grind out the paint? we've been using the steel wheel but its not working as great as i had hoped.

[VOX]

went out and got some Jasco paint remover from home depot and worked on the car for awhile today.

heres the before
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/EvoWizard/IMG_5363.jpg)

heres after about 3 mins of letting the stuff sit and then scraping at it for a minute
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/EvoWizard/IMG_5365.jpg)
heres the stuff working, it starts bubbling up the paint
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/EvoWizard/IMG_5366.jpg)

worked at it by hand like a dummy, an hour later i thought to myself, there had to be an ezier way of removing the paint, so i brought out the power drill with the steel wheel.
heres how it is now
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/EvoWizard/IMG_5367.jpg)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/EvoWizard/IMG_5368.jpg)

i hope to get the cabin stripped and cleaned by the the end of tomorrow with some help. so i can metal prep it then por-15 the whole cabin.

[charliew]

Everywhere the stripper gets in seams it will screw up the new paint. You can try to wash the stripper out of the seams but usually it doesn't all come out.

[dlo914]

Everywhere the stripper gets in seams it will screw up the new paint. You can try to wash the stripper out of the seams but usually it doesn't all come out.

:doh: o wells we're not gonna paint it any fancy color, just Por-15, then some type of dynmat, and carpeting.