Researching 914 Ownership History & Condition Eval Pix, How to research original dealer & initial owner(s) of my `73 914-2 Options

[swl]

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta was really pushing for a full bore bare metal resto back to factory color, and not in favor of my using a s"donor" 914 - of course he's selling the parts!

Yes George is a parts hawker but he also has the 914 disease worse than just about anyone here. There is no doubt bare metal is the best way to go but damn it cost the bucks. And time.

I'm up on the rust situation, but need access to do the clean-out & lead where bubbled!

Surface rust is not a problem. It is the frame that you have to protect. Given the history of your car you probably don't have problems in the longs but you should still investigate. Take off the rockers and pull up the carpet on the inside of the longs.

Daughter just informed me she's not ready for the furniture until next year 2010 or ?? !!!! We already have 2 storage shed full on the property (city max is 1 of 150 sf! - oops!), so now I have to get the addition done the wife's been bugging me about to put it somewhere. Argh!
So maybe we'll clear it out this summer long enough to put it on rollers, then "repack" her stuff. At least then I can roll it out to work on it in the driveway ...it's always sunny in SoCal - right!

back a while - maybe a year or two ago. Someone posted a picture of his garage where he had framed a box over the front end of the car. I thought it was genious. You could move some of her stuff on top the box so you can roll the car out of the box to work on it.

Hey - does anyone know how realistic it is to just straighten & re-chrome the F&R bumpers? ...likewise to straighten & refinish the F&R rubber bumper caps & F rubber "tit"? (I've alys called them "rubber baby buggy bumpers!)

I had my rear bumper punched by a big old caddy way back when. They did a very exceptable job of straightening and refinishing but the chromer did a lousy job. Within a few years the rust started bubbling in behind and the chrome peeled. It all depends on the skill of the body man/chromer. Rubber on the other hand doesn't have many success stories. You might be better off watching ebay or finding the right donor car.

[Tom_T]

Hey Tom - welcome aboard.

The Garage part of your story sounds way too familiar! When she gets back for the summer have HER clear out the garage. The nerve - taking up man space!

We have a whole lot of originality enthusiasts around here. I'm sure they will be by shortly. My understanding is that the early 73's were a bit of a mutt as they transitioned over to the new pattern. Parts were used up at different rates as they rushed to meet the demand in the US. A common marker of this group is vinyl on the A pillar. It does sound a little unusual to have a 2L without a console and fog lights. The Rivs of course were not an option. That was either a previous owner or a dealer scooping them to upsell a 1.7.

As to your restoration goals - of course you need to do what is right for you. Not the resale value. You've said you are a 'Drive it' kind of guy so I figure you would get more fun sinking your money into getting it on the road making it fun to drive. Given the bumps and bruises it has had it is probably not a candidate for a concours restoration.

Maybe set yourself some intermediate goals. As long as you don't hack into anything that would stop it from eventually being restored fully you keep your options open. Get in there and assess the rust situation and get it fixed. Get the fuel system, brakes, vacuum systems rebuilt. Fire her up. See where the journey takes you.

Hi Steve,

Given the damage to the pop-up headlight, body panels & deck lids - they'd all have to be repaired to make it legally roadable again, in addition to the running gear updates & maintenance.

Given your comment to not hack into it to keep future resto options open -
...is it better to straighten & repair the existing body parts?
...or to cut-n-weld "clean" used ones from a "donor" or parts source?
...or to try to get new body parts to cut-n-weld for the repair?

Given your comment about the oddity of not having the fog lights & center console, I've looked at the p914.com website regarding gauges, & according to them - if you bought a 2L without the center console & 3 gauges, then they were equipped with the combo fuel/temp gauge at the L of the instrument cluster.

However, mine just has the standard fuel gauge with only the parking brake light at the top (i.e.: no temp gauge). Being an early `73, mine has the silver button gauges with glass bezels, and the buttons are all still shiny & intact, with unscratched/non-fogged bezels - thanx to relatively dry SoCal climate I'm sure. It also never had vinyl on the A-pillars since I bought it in 2/76, and the sail vinyl doesn't & never had any foam under it - just direct adhered to the primed & painted sheet metal.

As to the fog lights, I just rechecked behind the front bumper grills and there is no evidence of a bracket nor screw/bolt holes to have mounted a fog light. This leads to one of two possibilities: either it never came equipped with them; or it had front end damage 11/72 - 2/76 before I bought it, & the original front body panel was replaced with another lacking the fog light. Body shops are known to cut corners, and could have pocketed the insurance money for the fog lights, etc., leaving the owners unknowing that they'd been shortchanged (or the owners could have opted for it at a lower cost, in order to help pay for the color change from white?).

This begs the question -
Does anyone know how hard it would be for me to add foglights to this front body panel without the brackets/holes, of course after having a body shop straighten that existing front body panel?

....or should I look for a roller or body part(s) for the 73-74 front bumper with fog lights & cut it in, since it's pushed in anyway from the accident?

For those interested in this fuel/combo gauge subject, look at:
http://www.p914.com/p914_gauges_clusters.htm
http://www.p914.com/p914_gauges_combo.htm
http://www.p914.com/p914_gauges_fuel.htm

Thanx in advance for any input!
Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

i've done some reasearch on my early 73 it attempts to cover a spacific group of the first 1000 or so, yours may or may not be in it but maybe this link will help you

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=67816&hl=

hope thats of help. i just went thru and got rid of about 400 8-tracks i had stashed over the years for my old mustang factory 8-track... werrrr,click clack, werrrr.... gotta love um' oh yeah dont forget the matchbook wedge to hold the tape right

mike

PS Mike -

I just figured out thaqt I can play the video clip on your post (duh - old guy!). Great clip - so I take it that's the son's 914? Let me know if you ever make it to the summer Classic Car Show in the City of Orange Plaza (traffic circle for most regular folk). We'll walk over & visit, gawk, etc.

Tom T
Orange, Ca
///////

yeah, kenny is responsible for inducting his mom & i into the world of 914's, we've always been mustangers. it's a long story but he bought his first 914 @ age 13 with paper route savings, worked up to this one. we recently bought him out so he could pay off his impreza (daily driver). once he's able though we intend for the 914 to find it's way back to his stable. meanwhile he's behind airbags and a more reliable vehicle for daily life as an 18 year old driver (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) . we really want to make the upcoming 09 WCR if at all possible. if you don't know about that, do a search it's in so. cal in may(?).

mike

Mike

I can't wait for our 20 yr old son & almost 22 yr old daughter to get off our AAA insurance! Their "cheapie" `88 Honda Civic Hatchback on which she's the primary & he's secondary drivers, will cost us next year more than both my 85 BMW 325e & wife's 88 Westfalia combined! I can just imagine how much they'd ding us for a restore 73 914-2.0 with them still on our policy!!!!

Still have 50+/- 8-track cartridges for nostalgia's sake to play - if/when I reinstall the stereo/player in the 914, instead of a current radio/CD type. However, I don't know if it's worth taking to a repair shop to fix - if anyone around still works on them - since it's been 30+/- years since I pulled it out of the car for a "new" stereo cassette player!

I pulled the original unit out of the box to see make & model. The front face shows no maker nor brand nor "Porsche", "VW", "Audi" lettering, but has a hinged station dial face to insert the 8-track cartriges into the player, and two in-out buttons aabove that - L for AM or FM & R for Mono or Stereo, with 4 small amber lights between to indicate the track being played. I'll post some pix when I can get around to doing it, and maybe some tight quarters in-the-garage-slot pix of the car too.

The radio/player unit did have on the bottom of the case - if I'm reading some of the hard to read numbers correctly - the following:
Bottom of case -
1VW4412 (printed)
P128 4 ("P" could be "D" or "R" or "B" ?? )
SER 4925 * 107419 ("*" is a silver rivet & numbers before are stamped, & those after printed)
27E43307001 (cast into case)
& several other printed inspection or mfgr., model, etc. printed numbers

Left side of case -
15D43330 C03 (stamped)

So I'm guessing it was one of the stereo sets that VW had made to market thru their VW/Porsche/Audi dealerships' options & accessories program.

If anyone has any leads on which radio it might be &/or where to get more "of the day" info about it, I'd appreciate any leads & info.!

Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta was really pushing for a full bore bare metal resto back to factory color, and not in favor of my using a s"donor" 914 - of course he's selling the parts!

Yes George is a parts hawker but he also has the 914 disease worse than just about anyone here. There is no doubt bare metal is the best way to go but damn it cost the bucks. And time.

I'm up on the rust situation, but need access to do the clean-out & lead where bubbled!

Surface rust is not a problem. It is the frame that you have to protect. Given the history of your car you probably don't have problems in the longs but you should still investigate. Take off the rockers and pull up the carpet on the inside of the longs.

Daughter just informed me she's not ready for the furniture until next year 2010 or ?? !!!! We already have 2 storage shed full on the property (city max is 1 of 150 sf! - oops!), so now I have to get the addition done the wife's been bugging me about to put it somewhere. Argh!
So maybe we'll clear it out this summer long enough to put it on rollers, then "repack" her stuff. At least then I can roll it out to work on it in the driveway ...it's always sunny in SoCal - right!

back a while - maybe a year or two ago. Someone posted a picture of his garage where he had framed a box over the front end of the car. I thought it was genious. You could move some of her stuff on top the box so you can roll the car out of the box to work on it.

Hey - does anyone know how realistic it is to just straighten & re-chrome the F&R bumpers? ...likewise to straighten & refinish the F&R rubber bumper caps & F rubber "tit"? (I've alys called them "rubber baby buggy bumpers!)

I had my rear bumper punched by a big old caddy way back when. They did a very exceptable job of straightening and refinishing but the chromer did a lousy job. Within a few years the rust started bubbling in behind and the chrome peeled. It all depends on the skill of the body man/chromer. Rubber on the other hand doesn't have many success stories. You might be better off watching ebay or finding the right donor car.

Thanx for the input Steve,

I think that the bumpers are straightenable - no tears, just bent; rubber is available new OEM/after market replacement & ditto for the lights/etc.

But what about the bent body panels? ...as in my other post - am I better off straitening the existing ones on the car, or replacing cut-&-weld with new (if available) or clean used ones?

These primarily involve the F & R center panels behind & above the bumpers, F or R edges of the F & R trunks' floors, F & R deck lids. They also look straightenable - but that's never perfect, involves a lot of work, and all too often - the liberal use of bondo!

RE garage situation: Given a weekend with good weather & son's help, we can probably pull out & rearrange the garage stuff to give me a foot or so on each side to roll her in-&-out on those wheelie-dolly things. But I'll need everything out in order to maneuver the floor jack on the sides to lift off the cement blocks. & then the tires will have load on them while resting on the dollies, unless I can find 4 jackable stands to put under the car when not in rolling use. Being 26 years old, those tires will need to be replaced anyway, so it may not matter.

The rack is a good idea, but we already have bikes on rafter hangers above & some lightweight stuff sitting on top of the 914 (bad me!). However, I think that a little rearranging & a 3rd yard storage shed may do the trick! I'm researching them now, and can get by on it being a "temporary measure" while we do our home addition this year (09/10),after which the stuff goes back into the house + new rooms. I can then trash the 2 older sheds & keep the new one for stuff & my business records/etc. I'm looking for those today!

Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta was really pushing for a full bore bare metal resto back to factory color, and not in favor of my using a s"donor" 914 - of course he's selling the parts!

Yes George is a parts hawker but he also has the 914 disease worse than just about anyone here. There is no doubt bare metal is the best way to go but damn it cost the bucks. And time.

I'm up on the rust situation, but need access to do the clean-out & lead where bubbled!

Surface rust is not a problem. It is the frame that you have to protect. Given the history of your car you probably don't have problems in the longs but you should still investigate. Take off the rockers and pull up the carpet on the inside of the longs.

Daughter just informed me she's not ready for the furniture until next year 2010 or ?? !!!! We already have 2 storage shed full on the property (city max is 1 of 150 sf! - oops!), so now I have to get the addition done the wife's been bugging me about to put it somewhere. Argh!
So maybe we'll clear it out this summer long enough to put it on rollers, then "repack" her stuff. At least then I can roll it out to work on it in the driveway ...it's always sunny in SoCal - right!

back a while - maybe a year or two ago. Someone posted a picture of his garage where he had framed a box over the front end of the car. I thought it was genious. You could move some of her stuff on top the box so you can roll the car out of the box to work on it.

Hey - does anyone know how realistic it is to just straighten & re-chrome the F&R bumpers? ...likewise to straighten & refinish the F&R rubber bumper caps & F rubber "tit"? (I've alys called them "rubber baby buggy bumpers!)

I had my rear bumper punched by a big old caddy way back when. They did a very exceptable job of straightening and refinishing but the chromer did a lousy job. Within a few years the rust started bubbling in behind and the chrome peeled. It all depends on the skill of the body man/chromer. Rubber on the other hand doesn't have many success stories. You might be better off watching ebay or finding the right donor car.

Thanx for the input Steve,

I think that the bumpers are straightenable - no tears, just bent; rubber is available new OEM/after market replacement & ditto for the lights/etc.

But what about the bent body panels? ...as in my other post - am I better off straitening the existing ones on the car, or replacing cut-&-weld with new (if available) or clean used ones?

These primarily involve the F & R center panels behind & above the bumpers, F or R edges of the F & R trunks' floors, F & R deck lids. They also look straightenable - but that's never perfect, involves a lot of work, and all too often - the liberal use of bondo!

RE garage situation: Given a weekend with good weather & son's help, we can probably pull out & rearrange the garage stuff to give me a foot or so on each side to roll her in-&-out on those wheelie-dolly things. But I'll need everything out in order to maneuver the floor jack on the sides to lift off the cement blocks. & then the tires will have load on them while resting on the dollies, unless I can find 4 jackable stands to put under the car when not in rolling use. Being 26 years old, those tires will need to be replaced anyway, so it may not matter.

The rack is a good idea, but we already have bikes on rafter hangers above & some lightweight stuff sitting on top of the 914 (bad me!). However, I think that a little rearranging & a 3rd yard storage shed may do the trick! I'm researching them now, and can get by on it being a "temporary measure" while we do our home addition this year (09/10),after which the stuff goes back into the house + new rooms. I can then trash the 2 older sheds & keep the new one for stuff & my business records/etc. I'm looking for those today!

Tom T
///////

PS - SoCal Air Quality Rules have so restricted the use of old & reliable paints - that the only things allowed in body shops now are water based low VOC paints that are relatively untried long term. Likewise, rechromers have serious rstrictions. So I may be better off taking the chrome parts &/or body out-of-state for the rechroming & repainting!

Something to think about, for those of you in CA & other urban areas where they have these air, water & other pollution controls' onerous restrictions. Check out what your shop will use 7 don't assume it's the same as "the good ole days"!

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for the environment, but some of these restrictions go too far for no t necessarily a better end product, & then you end up with far more pollution from stuff that doesn't last.

Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?

Well it was made in 1973, in Germany, from steel with good rust potential. Made from mostly German parts. It took a long boat ride in its youth, with others of its kind. It found a new home in the USA and has been there ever sense.

If I can be more help don't bother asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hey Paul -

The car was first sold 11/72 - so it would be pretty hard to have been "made in 1973"! You must have gotten too much low desert sun, or too much polluter Jersey water - or both!

Fortunately most others on this site aren't as sarcastic & demeaning as your post!

Tom T
///////

[bembry]

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?

Well it was made in 1973, in Germany, from steel with good rust potential. Made from mostly German parts. It took a long boat ride in its youth, with others of its kind. It found a new home in the USA and has been there ever sense.

If I can be more help don't bother asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hey Paul -

The car was first sold 11/72 - so it would be pretty hard to have been "made in 1973"! You must have gotten too much low desert sun, or too much polluter Jersey water - or both!

Fortunately most others on this site aren't as sarcastic & demeaning as your post!

Tom T
///////

Whoa--I think he was just joking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[Tom_T]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

i've done some reasearch on my early 73 it attempts to cover a spacific group of the first 1000 or so, yours may or may not be in it but maybe this link will help you

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=67816&hl=

hope thats of help. i just went thru and got rid of about 400 8-tracks i had stashed over the years for my old mustang factory 8-track... werrrr,click clack, werrrr.... gotta love um' oh yeah dont forget the matchbook wedge to hold the tape right

mike

RE your WTB Euro tail light lenses, try these websites:

Performance Products / Automotion:
http://www.automotion.com/dept.asp?dept_id=4719&level=1

Auto Atlanta:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/model/porsche-9...arts/905-05.htm

Pelikan:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._pg3.htm#item23

However, I'd keep the US ones if they're in good shape, since they're no longer available & harder to come by - ergo more valuable. Ditto for the front turn signal & round marker lights' US vs Euro lenses.

These were Handy, since taillight assys. are on my needs list too!

Hope this helps!
Tom T
///////

[orange914]

I can't wait for our 20 yr old son & almost 22 yr old daughter to get off our AAA insurance! Their "cheapie" `88 Honda Civic Hatchback on which she's the primary & he's secondary drivers, will cost us next year more than both my 85 BMW 325e & wife's 88 Westfalia combined! I can just imagine how much they'd ding us for a restore 73 914-2.0 with them still on our policy!!!!

Still have 50+/- 8-track cartridges for nostalgia's sake to play - if/when I reinstall the stereo/player in the 914, instead of a current radio/CD type. However, I don't know if it's worth taking to a repair shop to fix - if anyone around still works on them - since it's been 30+/- years since I pulled it out of the car for a "new" stereo cassette player!

Tom T
///////

keep them in the civic until they're past the "dumb driving" years. let them grow to appriciate the 914. unfortunately i'm speaking from experiance... fortunately, kenny was in his civic daily driver when he "put it on the roof". i don't think he would have been o.k. in the 914 under the same condition. as i've heard, there is a 100% chance a new driver will be in an accident, both of my boys have proven that statement many times over!

does the 8-track work? 99% of the time the "rubber band" that drives the tape breaks with age... piece of cake to change. i gave away most of my tapes but still have a bunch of car units i haven't dealt with yet. one is a n.i.b. unit. remember the 4 track?

mike

[orange914]

RE your WTB Euro tail light lenses, try these websites:

However, I'd keep the US ones if they're in good shape, since they're no longer available & harder to come by - ergo more valuable. Ditto for the front turn signal & round marker lights' US vs Euro lenses.

These were Handy, since taillight assys. are on my needs list too!

Hope this helps!
Tom T
///////

i need to remove that off our signature, we now have a beautiful euro set (and will be shelfing the o.e. u.s. red set). i beleive my 73 must have had them origanally as it was in the group slated for european destination but then pulled for u.s. so they would have been converted to u.s. lighting spec.'s. just one of those thangs. do you need light buckets too?

mike

[So.Cal.914]

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?

Well it was made in 1973, in Germany, from steel with good rust potential. Made from mostly German parts. It took a long boat ride in its youth, with others of its kind. It found a new home in the USA and has been there ever sense.

If I can be more help don't bother asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hey Paul -

The car was first sold 11/72 - so it would be pretty hard to have been "made in 1973"! You must have gotten too much low desert sun, or too much polluter Jersey water - or both!

Fortunately most others on this site aren't as sarcastic & demeaning as your post!

Tom T
///////

Gee tom, check your sense of humor at the door? You should have checked that chip too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) If your going to cry go to your room.

[Tom_T]

RE your WTB Euro tail light lenses, try these websites:

However, I'd keep the US ones if they're in good shape, since they're no longer available & harder to come by - ergo more valuable. Ditto for the front turn signal & round marker lights' US vs Euro lenses.

These were Handy, since taillight assys. are on my needs list too!

Hope this helps!
Tom T
///////

i need to remove that off our signature, we now have a beautiful euro set (and will be shelfing the o.e. u.s. red set). i beleive my 73 must have had them origanally as it was in the group slated for european destination but then pulled for u.s. so they would have been converted to u.s. lighting spec.'s. just one of those thangs. do you need light buckets too?

mike

Mike,

I'll need both L&R full taillight assys. with lenses - preferably US. I'll by parts unless Iget a roller/DE donar 914 with them intact.

Haven't had the 8-track in since `78 & it worked then, but I've replaced the rubber drive bands in other 8T & cassette units before. Harder repairs could be in store if the electronics have suffered in that 31 years sitting around a box in my garage. So who knows.

Kids may have to stay away from the 914 until 26! I was pummeled with $2400 a year in insurance myself until I passed 25, and that was back in the `70's! ...hate to see what it would be today!! ...and so long as they're on our policy, apparently insur. co. will presume they'll drive it!

Of course, I'd also like to incentivize my son to help with the resto!

Tom T
///////

[Roy]

At #1954, it also would have the newer and better post #1000 door structure/design.
///////end

Actually, most (but not all) guys prefer the earlier (lightweight) doors with the later scissor style window regulators. I believe this is a feature unique to the 'early' 73's.

[orange914]

At #1954, it also would have the newer and better post #1000 door structure/design.
///////end

Actually, most (but not all) guys prefer the earlier (lightweight) doors with the later scissor style window regulators. I believe this is a feature unique to the 'early' 73's.

did some early 73's have the light (non reinforced) doors with scissor regulators from the factory? how involved is it to convert?

mike

[Tom_T]

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?

Well it was made in 1973, in Germany, from steel with good rust potential. Made from mostly German parts. It took a long boat ride in its youth, with others of its kind. It found a new home in the USA and has been there ever sense.

If I can be more help don't bother asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hey Paul -

The car was first sold 11/72 - so it would be pretty hard to have been "made in 1973"! You must have gotten too much low desert sun, or too much polluter Jersey water - or both!

Fortunately most others on this site aren't as sarcastic & demeaning as your post!

Tom T
///////

Gee tom, check your sense of humor at the door? You should have checked that chip too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) If your going to cry go to your room.

Well Paul - between the close of your first post highlighted above and your "finger", you've proven my point!

Perhaps if you re-read your own post as is you're new to the list, maybe you'd see that it's not a very appropriate nor favorable "introduction" of yourself, let alone not very funny! My reply was prhaps not very funny about sun & Jersey water, but it was in the same vain of sarcasm as your intro. - so you apparently don't like it coming back your way either.

But let's not belabor the point - just stop responding to my thread, so others who care to be helpful can do so.

Buh-Bye! java script:emoticon(':wavebye:',%20'smid_58')
Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

At #1954, it also would have the newer and better post #1000 door structure/design.
///////end

Actually, most (but not all) guys prefer the earlier (lightweight) doors with the later scissor style window regulators. I believe this is a feature unique to the 'early' 73's.

Given the flex already in the roadster design, some feel that the 5 or so pounds more is well worth the added strength & flex resistance that the later doors provide (so long as the rest of the unibody is solid, that is).

Tom T
///////

[Tom_T]

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?

Well it was made in 1973, in Germany, from steel with good rust potential. Made from mostly German parts. It took a long boat ride in its youth, with others of its kind. It found a new home in the USA and has been there ever sense.

If I can be more help don't bother asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Hey Paul -

The car was first sold 11/72 - so it would be pretty hard to have been "made in 1973"! You must have gotten too much low desert sun, or too much polluter Jersey water - or both!

Fortunately most others on this site aren't as sarcastic & demeaning as your post!

Tom T
///////

Gee tom, check your sense of humor at the door? You should have checked that chip too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) If your going to cry go to your room.

Well Paul - between the close of your first post highlighted above and your "finger", you've proven my point!

Perhaps if you re-read your own post as is you're new to the list, maybe you'd see that it's not a very appropriate nor favorable "introduction" of yourself, let alone not very funny! My reply was prhaps not very funny about sun & Jersey water, but it was in the same vain of sarcasm as your intro. - so you apparently don't like it coming back your way either.

But let's not belabor the point - just stop responding to my thread, so others who care to be helpful can do so.

Buh-Bye! java script:emoticon(':wavebye:',%20'smid_58')
Tom T
///////

Opps here - dragged instead of clicked the image before:
Buh-Bye! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
Tom T
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[So.Cal.914]

Tom the only person that did not find it funny is you. Quit being a Dick...Tom.

[ConeDodger]

Tom,
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Paul really was kidding. That is just his way and the way of many others on this site. You should see the shit they give me! Just their way of welcoming you... Kind of like the guys standing around in the garage with a beer in hand... If you had been here a couple years you would be just giving it back in kind. If Paul made a mistake it was giving you crap before he knew you better...

Good luck with your project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[KELTY360]

Tom,
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Paul really was kidding. That is just his way and the way of many others on this site. You should see the shit they give me! Just their way of welcoming you... Kind of like the guys standing around in the garage with a beer in hand... If you had been here a couple years you would be just giving it back in kind. If Paul made a mistake it was giving you crap before he knew you better...

Good luck with your project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Maybe he should come to one of the meetings.

AHA Meeting

When is the next one? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)