Advice for adding a "wevo type coupler" to a 914 Options

[computers4kids]

I would like to add a 360 degree rotational coupler in place of the stock coupler found on the shift rod near the firewall. With my v8 conversion the fan belt is very close to the stock coupler when the shifting in 4th and 5th gears.

Looking for any advice or source for such a coupler and install tips.

(IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2837-1155654490.jpg)
This picture is not of my v8, but it illustrates how close the coupler is to the belt. The coupler when turned by the shift rod used to barely clear, but now since I lowered my car...the coupler grazes the belt on 4th and 2nd gear shifts...too close for my comfort.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-159-1154282960.jpg)

[Michael N]

smdubovsky (Stephen) made one for a side shift conversion on my /6 several years ago. I must say that it made a great inprovement and coupled with the Rennshifter the car shifts great (if you can say that about a 914). Check out the two links.

Link for old thread here.

First thread here.

Thanks again Stephen. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[BIGKAT_83]

I've used a borgeson joint which is more than likely what the wevo joint is. I used the 1/2 inch one and it cleared the 8" pulley on my LS1 car.

Bob

[neo914-6]

Not WEVO but I designed an extension to avoid the belt interference and add the shifter length necessary for the adapter plate. Mueller can build more if it suits you...

[john rogers]

I have had one on my race car for probably 8 or 9 years I figure by now. They eliminate a tremendous amount of slop that you never realize is actually there until it is gone. I have mine welded to the rear shift rod and drilled/tapped for a factory pinch screw in the front half. I used some heat absorbing stuff when welding the rear on so the rubber boot would not melt.

When I installed it, I made the drilled and tapped hole and mounted the front of the coupler and the rear joint was a snug fit so I just made it up like it would be permanate and tack welded it. I took the rear shift rod off for finish welding.

[computers4kids]

Not WEVO but I designed an extension to avoid the belt interference and add the shifter length necessary for the adapter plate. Mueller can build more if it suits you...

Yes, I loved your shift rod mod. When I was first putting my engine in last August I contacted Mueller to see if he would make one for me too but didn't seem to interested at the time...too busy I suppose. But now, I'm not to sure your mod would work with my car. When the car is is 1st and 3rd the coupler is just a little bit behind the firewall no where near the belt. However, when shifting into 4th the rod then entends towards the transmission and the coupler rotates and is right under the belt. Your extension would solve the 4th closeness, but would then put 1st and 3rd under the belt. It seems your shift rod protrudes further from the firewall than mine? I have a 75 chasis.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-159-1175586245_thumb.jpg)

[computers4kids]

smdubovsky (Stephen) made one for a side shift conversion on my /6 several years ago. I must say that it made a great inprovement and coupled with the Rennshifter the car shifts great (if you can say that about a 914). Check out the two links.

Link for old thread here.

First thread here.

Thanks again Stephen. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Michael,
I could see a smaller diameter ujoint working well in my case. I liked Stephens' idea of using a larger ujoint and then tapping it as opposed to welding the nut on.
Perhaps he would be interested in making a rod for my car or welding a ujoint on a side shift rod for me. My rod needs to be extended 1/1/4 because of the v8 setback. I'm not much of a welder.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2837-1157401465.jpg)

[computers4kids]

I've used a borgeson joint which is more than likely what the wevo joint is. I used the 1/2 inch one and it cleared the 8" pulley on my LS1 car.

Bob

Bob,
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of how you modified the end of the shift rod with the borgeson joint. I went on their website and looked around but not sure the best way to go. Something like this one...
(IMG:http://www.borgeson.com/PRODUCTS%20HOME/ujoint.jpg)

[computers4kids]

I have had one on my race car for probably 8 or 9 years I figure by now. They eliminate a tremendous amount of slop that you never realize is actually there until it is gone. I have mine welded to the rear shift rod and drilled/tapped for a factory pinch screw in the front half. I used some heat absorbing stuff when welding the rear on so the rubber boot would not melt.

When I installed it, I made the drilled and tapped hole and mounted the front of the coupler and the rear joint was a snug fit so I just made it up like it would be permanate and tack welded it. I took the rear shift rod off for finish welding.

Makes sense...I replaced all my bushings and added a Renshift and am very hapy with the way it shifts, so any extra precision from replacing the stock joint would just be an added bonus. However, my main reason for the mod is to increase clearance from my fan belt.

[JRust]

Be careful Mark! You might break something before WCR (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Nothing worse than having your car undriveable for the event (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . Don't ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Oh yeah you lived thru that whole ordeal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[smdubovsky]

Wow, I don't check the board super often but my ears are burning:) Thanks for the good works Michael! I haven't made any in a while but I think I still have plenty of raw matl except the coupler (all but the first prototype used the larger ones simply tapped). JRust, I can measure the boot diam if that helps. Making it longer is easy too. Send me a PM if interested.

[computers4kids]

As you can see a bit too tight...LOL.

[BIGKAT_83]

I've used a borgeson joint which is more than likely what the wevo joint is. I used the 1/2 inch one and it cleared the 8" pulley on my LS1 car.

Bob

Bob,
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of how you modified the end of the shift rod with the borgeson joint. I went on their website and looked around but not sure the best way to go. Something like this one...
(IMG:http://www.borgeson.com/PRODUCTS%20HOME/ujoint.jpg)

These are pictures of the shift rod mounted to a transaxle core I used to mount and start the engine with. I had to make a new shift rod to clear the LS1 oil filter.I also used a joint at the shift console

[computers4kids]

I've used a borgeson joint which is more than likely what the wevo joint is. I used the 1/2 inch one and it cleared the 8" pulley on my LS1 car.

Bob

Bob,
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of how you modified the end of the shift rod with the borgeson joint. I went on their website and looked around but not sure the best way to go. Something like this one...
(IMG:http://www.borgeson.com/PRODUCTS%20HOME/ujoint.jpg)

These are pictures of the shift rod mounted to a transaxle core I used to mount and start the engine with. I had to make a new shift rod to clear the LS1 oil filter.I also used a joint at the shift console

Thanks, pictures really helped. I did run across that ujoint and found it to be very inexpensive compared to the others i.e Wevo. It came with a 1/2 inch smooth ends or 5/8 smooth ends. I know earlier you mentioned you used a 1/2 inch. It seems that the shift rod coming out of the console takes a 5/8? Did you mean 5/8 on the console side and 1/2 on the transmission side of the joint?

Also, I can see you have very tight clearances like I do. I'm concerned that the website selling these said they were "race only" and had to be lubricated each use...what's up with that?

[BIGKAT_83]

No I turned the rod at the shift console down to .5 inchs. The joints I have are needle bearing.I think that the ones that would need to be lubed are the without the bearings.
I'm also using the rubber dust covers on both joints.

Bob

[Jeffs9146]

I'm not a V8 guy but it seems that there are many ways to solve this problem.

1. Reduce the size of the lower pulley and increase the size of the connecting pullys an equal amount

2. Raise the motor mount 3/8"

3. Do as discribed in this tread by adapting the shift rod

$.02

[BIGKAT_83]

I'm not a V8 guy but it seems that there are many ways to solve this problem.

1. Reduce the size of the lower pulley and increase the size of the connecting pullys an equal amount

2. Raise the motor mount 3/8"

3. Do as discribed in this tread by adapting the shift rod

$.02

I did it for better shifting. On my SBC V8 car there is plenty of room for all of the stock shift rods and couplers.

Bob