Let's save another 914, and get it decent., Probably need advice from you old school 914 folk Options

[ghuff]

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[ghuff]

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[ghuff]

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[Andyrew]

Thats ugly.

Start sourcing a replacement rear fender.

Damn good bondo work though...

Lets see some of your welds, I can help you dial in your setting. Lay a bead, dont clean it up (just ONE bead, about 2" long) On some scrap metal. Post a pic of it and I'll tell you what you need to do to the welder and to your welding.

Keep at it! Your already this far!!

[ghuff]

They botched the door handle shave so bad they had to fuck the body up and smash it down to recreate the fender out of plastic as you see.

That is nothing under the bondo was a 1/8" layer of plastic or structural adhesive shaped up and such.

UGH


Anyone have a rear fender or Two complete with door handle cut out?

I think I may actually need a set of doors too, I think these doors may be ruined. I need to pull the panels and peer inside.

This is going to be an odd sawzall.


I just talked to scottyb and asked him to take a look here when he had a chance, since it is pretty much certain he will eventually end up with this shell in some sort of sacrificial primer to make look super pretty again.

[1968Cayman]

Eh, just buy some body hammers and a shrinking dolly. You'll have the car in shape in no time.

[ghuff]

Eh, just buy some body hammers and a shrinking dolly. You'll have the car in shape in no time.

My sarcasm detector is broken. Are you serious?


If so, I mean hell It can not really get worse than it is now, I mean It is pretty much new rear fenders & doors time so what the hell I guess.

I just bought a milwaukee 5" random orbital sander and a 25 pack of 120 grit pads for it so I can strip the entire car down to bare metal.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[ghuff]

The passenger rear 1/4 and fender are fucked. I am done cutting, sanding or otherwise messing around with the rear fenders of the vehicle at this point.


They beat the corner of the door pocket in, it is too far gone to salvage and the panel is warped on top of that worse than I thought from the heat.

Well it looks like I can do some of the custom metal work I wanted to now, which is get rid of the spot weld seams and trim for the sail panels, so it is body colored then seal it back up from the inside to prevent rot.

The drivers side 1/4 is not as bad, but I am writing it off due to the shit welding and the smashing then filling with what looks like lead or some sort of metal.

On the good side, I now have a bunch of the actual metal my car is made from, so getting my welder settings perfect for 1975 German steel will be easy without fucking anything up.

[FourBlades]

That will be a nice solid car when you are done with it.

What other rice rocket mods did they do besides the door handles?

John

[scotty b]

It's all fixable. Get the paint and bondo off and see what kind of shape the fenders are in before you start buying replacements. Get a knotted wire bruch for your grinder. It will become you best friend and your worst enemy at the same time. Cuts down on the time to clean all that crap out, and makes a LOT of mess. Wear your ear rubbers when using it. always remember:

it will get worse before it gets better

no matter how hot she is, some guy is tired of putting up with her

Don't eat yellow snow

don't eat brown snowballs

[ghuff]

It's all fixable. Get the paint and bondo off and see what kind of shape the fenders are in before you start buying replacements. Get a knotted wire bruch for your grinder. It will become you best friend and your worst enemy at the same time. Cuts down on the time to clean all that crap out, and makes a LOT of mess. Wear your ear rubbers when using it. always remember:

it will get worse before it gets better

no matter how hot she is, some guy is tired of putting up with her

Don't eat yellow snow

don't eat brown snowballs

Urine is not only sterile and tasty but a dab of your morning pee on zits can cure your acne.

I am not sure if they were trying to get me to put my pee on my face or what but you know I heard that from a girl like 5 years ago. I wonder if she put her pee on her face.



I am now more confident about going at this crap with my wire wheel or 80 grit.

I have some 80 grit flapper discs I can use with a light hand and a stripper attachment for the 4.5" angle grinder.


Should I stick with 120 everywhere else? My worry is fucking up the metal surface and having to have a thick layer of fill primer to sand down instead of smooth unscratched metal wherever possible.

[ghuff]

That will be a nice solid car when you are done with it.

What other rice rocket mods did they do besides the door handles?

John

That was it. Well they shaved the front side marker lights, one side seems to have been done well with steel, the other side has shitty weld rusting out the back and a lot of filler, which is bowing in.

The drivers rear fender has gobs of bondo in the door handle shave zone, as well as the wheel arch. Part of the lip sticking out was recreated in bondo, but what is awesome is I have a spare set of wheel arches/partial fenders from a signal orange 72 that were given to me when i bought some wheels and seats of a local 914 guy on craigslist.

Unfortunately my fenders are not the entire portion which would eliminate this mess.

I will get them bare and see if I can learn some old school hammer and dolly technique to fix.

I am now doing surgery and cutting the remnants of the pass side metal plate off with a tungsten carbide dremel bit, very carefully.

[scotty b]

80 is plenty fine. I strip with 36 grit then use 80 to get a nice even scratch for my first coat of primer. You really won't harm the metal unless you grind the paint off with a .......grinder......


On a side note, maybe the girl wanted to pee on your face (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Could have been an exciting night for ya (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[ghuff]

80 is plenty fine. I strip with 36 grit then use 80 to get a nice even scratch for my first coat of primer. You really won't harm the metal unless you grind the paint off with a .......grinder......


On a side note, maybe the girl wanted to pee on your face (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Could have been an exciting night for ya (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

For her, I might have if I was drunk or had some rationalization prepared for getting peed on. She was pretty smoking hot.


New thread question. Would you take a golden shower from a 10 in exchange for awesome sex?

[scotty b]

True love knows no boundaries (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Lennies914]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

[ghuff]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

Thanks. I have to see what happens.


I am currently performing surgical extraction of the welded on plates. Both on the doors, and fenders.

I am being very slow and patient, I would be tickled pink to keep the original sheet metal on the vehicle.

I am also almost entirely finished stripping the passenger side of the vehicle.

Am looking for holes. I remember another poster here mention using a brass block to keep the weld from building or sticking up....

I wonder if I can do that behind the holes, and fill them slowly with .023 wire and let it cool.......

I could also do what Ric Ollah suggested and kwales, use copper pipe to heatsink areas.

I found some wire mesh and filler on the fender to windshield area

It has to be metal when I am done. I am now glad I am stripping it to bare metal, as I can not stand half assed. I will do this right if I have to buy a metal brake and practice a lot.

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[Andyrew]

I'm cutting up a '73 now. Is the section for the door handle recess something you might need? Let me know how far you need to go once you remove all the bondo. If we can keep it small shipping shouldn't be much.

Thanks. I have to see what happens.


I am currently performing surgical extraction of the welded on plates. Both on the doors, and fenders.

I am being very slow and patient, I would be tickled pink to keep the original sheet metal on the vehicle.

I am also almost entirely finished stripping the passenger side of the vehicle.

Am looking for holes. I remember another poster here mention using a brass block to keep the weld from building or sticking up....

I wonder if I can do that behind the holes, and fill them slowly with .023 wire and let it cool.......

I could also do what Ric Ollah suggested and kwales, use copper pipe to heatsink areas.

I found some wire mesh and filler on the fender to windshield area

It has to be metal when I am done. I am now glad I am stripping it to bare metal, as I can not stand half assed. I will do this right if I have to buy a metal brake and practice a lot.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

The brass block actually helps you from burning through and also helps you to fill holes because your weld gets held in the place you want it rather than falling down. Aluminum works good, Brass works better, Copper works as well. Just any metal other than steel.

When you get to really welding, Post some pics of your welds, I've seen so many people get by with crappy welds that I hate it.. It only takes a second and I could help you really get it down better.

[ghuff]

I hate this fucking camera. What a pile of crap. If you can make anything out, it is the driver side rear fender. Accident damage.

There is another crappy pic of the bondo filled right front upper fender.

I also measured just under a 1/8" difference between the windshield frame on the drivers side and the passenger side. Passenger side between the point over the plastic bit in the frame to the targa bar 25.5" and 1/8" less on the drivers side.

The side with the accident damage. Do not know door gap yet, and I am not sure if the doors have ever had the bolts broken or were moved from the factory install, due to the repaint.

Is that within spec? I would like it perfect :| Especially before ANY welding takes places, I think that would be a bad order of operations here.

I think I am also going to pickup a door brace kit from tangerine, the dual bar unit.....

Not liking the idea of going forward without that..... perhaps it could be used to "stretch" my chassis back out? Or no, horrible idea?

Some garbage pics, tomorrow morning I will work on better ones. I have some more photos in the house to upload.


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[bugsy0]

So here is the rust on this one. It's a 75 cali car it's entire life.

Get the worst over to begin. Let us take a look at the hell hole. It was solid, and even passed teh screwdriver/hammer test....

*until* it soaked in metal ready a while... then the screwdriver test started picking out giant holes which you see here. It is still soaking, and has been on/off for days not to eat away more to see what metal is truly left. Next step is a grinder or non-hand tool of sorts to break deep into the pitting and see what truly is through.

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These photos are, to me, a bit rare. You can actually see the original seams, spot weld spacing, overlap order, etc. Very interesting as I've never really seen anything other than a repaired/patched car. Cool photos, nice focus. Thanks!