'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[Chris H.]

Wow THANK YOU Kent!!! That's awesome. Hope I can return the favor sometime. I do have a small stash of stuff so lemme know if you've been looking for anything specific. Really glad the parts list helped. Your setup looks fantastic!

And YES PLEASE on the dimensions, whenever you get a chance. Great idea to do the brace BTW. Looks really clean.

[ruby914]

Nice.

[Mike Bellis]

I'm having a problem with my Wilwood reservoir. It is leaking where the 2 halves clamp together. I haven't pulled it yet to see if it's cracked. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I followed the instructions and warmed it up before fitting. I'm going to look for a one piece unit... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[CptTripps]

That's awesome. One question though...

What are the differences between a clevis fitting and a healm joint?

[76-914]

Wow THANK YOU Kent!!! That's awesome. Hope I can return the favor sometime. I do have a small stash of stuff so lemme know if you've been looking for anything specific. Really glad the parts list helped. Your setup looks fantastic!

And YES PLEASE on the dimensions, whenever you get a chance. Great idea to do the brace BTW. Looks really clean.

Thank you! Dimensions will be posted later this week once my head clears out. Caught a GD cold on the flight back (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Nice.

Thanks Mike. I try to follow the CSOB route and if that doesn't work I go the KISS route. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

That's awesome. One question though...

What are the differences between a clevis fitting and a healm joint?

About 3/8 of an inch, Doug. The Heim joint will bolt to either side but I located the clutch MC for a clevis which is centered on the arm and not to one side or the other. The clevis would work had I located the MC for it originally. I forgot to mention that the 12mm bolt head (you see in the last 2 pics) which is centered in the hole to the right side of the screen has purpose. It's necessary to remove the clutch MC from the pedal assembly, if you want to leave the pedal cluster and brake MC in place when servicing. The lower bolt is accessible from beneath the car.

[BIGKAT_83]

Nice job Kent. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I was doing the same thing last week for a friends 914. I used a Honda civic master cylinder. These can be gotten at any auto parts store new for less than $25.

On my Subaru conversion I used a wilwood master like yours but I used the 2 mounts on the side of the cylinder and made a mount for them and welded that to the front suspension cross member.

[nsyr]

I used the honda master cylinder too. Can't beat the price.

[76-914]

Here are the dimensions for those interested. All dimensions are "mm" except for the 2, 1 1/2" dia. holes. Plate is 3/16" mild steel.









***NOTE*** The dotted bend line should read 3 Degrees NOT 30 Degrees



Hey Chris, this one's got your name on it. PM your address.



This one's mine. You can paint yours any color you want.

[CptTripps]

I'd pay for one.

...just sayin'

Great thread. Thanks!

[Chris H.]

Top notch man...thanks again. Might just clear coat it to remember the kind gesture. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Nice measurements too. Sounds like you could make a few more if you feel like it (but you might not).

Hey you're almost out of hard stuff to do! Almost time to fill that thing with water.

[CptTripps]

Just thinking out loud: I wonder if it'd make sense to use a different Master Cylinder with vertical bolts for the brakes. Since the horizontal bolts is a lot of the reason for the flex down there. If we're building replacement plates and welding them in anyways...

[76-914]

Just thinking out loud: I wonder if it'd make sense to use a different Master Cylinder with vertical bolts for the brakes. Since the horizontal bolts is a lot of the reason for the flex down there. If we're building replacement plates and welding them in anyways...

Hey thanks Chris. Pay back for the time you saved me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Doug, check post #202. Mike has a pic in his reply that shows the brace. It could be located on the left or right side of clutch MC but I chose the left side which puts it in between the brake & clutch MC's, This should be more than enough reinforcement. I wouldn't think of welding the plate to the floor unless I had TIG. Too much difference in mass.
I don't mind helping a friend out but making and selling these things is a horse of a different color. I might consider handing over (though it is now public domain (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) )the thing to Erc (PMB) or someone else that is insured out the Kazoo against such liabilities. It's like the difference between sharing a joint with a friend and selling pounds to strangers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
If 10/more people wanted one of these I would do a step by step video. All you need is a 1.5" hole saw and some misc. bits, a vise and drill. A smart phone "Level App" is handy for setting the 3 degrees incidence but that can actually be done by hand once mounted.
If the MC was 1/2" shorter it could be made w/o the twist. Material costs < $10. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[CptTripps]

10-4. I completely understand.

I may attempt myself then. If you're OK with it being posted here (even though you already did) I'll make up a PDF that is 1:1 that someone could print and use as a template.

[CptTripps]

There are a few dimensions I'm missing, but I think I have it overall. Would you be kind enough to print this out and see if it matches the real piece you have?

I don't have dimensions for:

- Small Hole Diameters
- Distancees for A, B, C, D and E

This should be 210mm from side to side when you print it out.

[76-914]

I've had a change of heart. My previous comments did not take Cap'n Crusty's niece into consideration. I have 2 blanks left and will sell them drilled out w/ bolts, nuts and standoff brace for $55, shipping included. The clevis is appx $10 with shipping on ebay. For an additional $45 + shipping, I will #1,set it up on your pedal assm, #2,remove the spring and replace it with a spacer. So all you do is drill 2 holes in the floorboard. Payments shall be made to the Cap'n paypal acct and he can tell me when he is paid.

I'll be happy to get you those dimensions when I come up for air. May be a few days. I still need to complete a most generous project of Tim's (our resident gage lighting specialist) that is going to one of our members widow. Can't wait to take some pic's and show off another of Tim's talents here.

[CptTripps]

I'm in! PM Sent...

[Chris H.]

Well that's really nice of you. I know mine's not part of this deal but I'm in for $100 to help the lovely Sarah. Planned to donate anyway but now I have to get off my butt and do it TODAY. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

One left.

[76-914]

Shifting gears and moving onto the exhaust (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) I wonder if I should address the drive shafts before I paint myself into a corner. Opinions from those that have gone before me? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Chris H.]

Remember I haven't DRIVEN mine but the way it is set up is:

Inner CV = FEMALE Subie (2002-2004) which is fine for you because your trans already has stub axles so it's set up for female CVs
Axle = Ians or re-splined 914 axle on one side to accept said Subie CV
Outer = the stock 914 CV....or you could upgrade to 944 if you pop a stock CV or two.

The other option is the "magic flange", which is fine too. Not sure about availability. The Subie CV is very strong so that's why I went with it.

I did a poor job of documenting this part of the build but here is a terrible pic of one of mine:



The Subie female CV is on the left, then the custom axle, then the 914 CV. I read on NASIOC NEVER to use the aftermarket Subie CV's. Always buy a used stock OEM CV even though they are about the same price as a new or rebuilt non OEM one. I got my axle pair for $50 and they were totally fine.

Also when you do the Subie CV you don't need to lock the axle in with the lock washer...you let it float. Weird but apparently it's fine.