'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[rnellums]

Kent, are you using the H6 pump or an impreza version? My EZ30 pump seems like the pickup is too short to be used in our tanks.

-Ross

[76-914]

Ross, It's from an Impreza. Save the H-6 pump. I think the motors are interchangeable. I had to rotate the pick up tube 180 degrees but that is covered in the thread. IIRC. If not, LMK. I'll get it for you.

[76-914]

Hope this helps, Ross. R-122 is the blk 10 pin in the lower left corner. It has a grey sheath as seen. Kent



Here is a close up of the controller and R-122 plug

[76-914]

I've been busy as a one armed Cranberry merchant for the past few weeks so I haven't accomplished much with the car. But I did get to tinker in the garage yesterday. Once again, I have shamelessly appropriated one of Bigkat83's ideas. I moved the battery to the drivers side. And for 2 reasons. One, to replace it with OEM parts was too pricey for my beer budget and two, the Suby battery cable would reach this side, barely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Although I believe the fiberglass battery tray that I put in the '76 is better in every way, I promised myself I would stick with metal on this car. I found these pic's of my mold for it taken 5 yr's ago yesterday. What a coincidence! The drinking straw is where the drain went (to the ground).







This time I took some 18ga scrape and made the base and angle pieces. Not much to say other than I used the OEM relay board mount which in itself was not strong enough so bracing was welded in beneath it. Primer, paint and Plastidip to follow.























And I put a front sway bar in the week before but you already saw that here http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=232123&hl= I did weld the inner plates but didn't get an after pic. BTW, that's Hell welding in there. It would be a snap if on a rotisserie.

[76-914]

Wow, I was so busy the last 10 days I goofed off for some R&R this weekend. I decided this was easy enough so I did this little 1 hr project and now feel better about the some protection for the clutch MC. The shield had been trimmed to allow the MC to fit.



And with this 90 elbow and and line even more trimming was necessary



I had an old Mapp Cylinder I saved just for this. So a quick pass thru the chop saw.







Then a pass with the welder








Next time I pull this I'll trim off about 3" at the rear, place some Wurth's at the seams and paint it. Look at the right side of the pic and you will see a slit that was cut. That was ball peened to allow for the hose and will be closed up when pulled again.

[CptTripps]

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.

[ruby914]

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.

The dead one is the one that doesn't explode, when you cut it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[Elliot Cannon]

So... what was easier/harder? Building this or an airplane? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Nice work.

[76-914]

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.

I just happen to have an extra. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[76-914]

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.

The dead one is the one that doesn't explode, when you cut it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

Good point. There is a "Schroeder "like" " valve on the end that you can depress to be sure it is empty.

[76-914]

So... what was easier/harder? Building this or an airplane? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Nice work.

I've been asking myself that same question these past few month's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I'll have to think that one through a bit more. However, I can tell you this. There is no feeling like sitting at the end of the runway about to jam the throttle on a "unproven" plane that has never flown, powered by an "unproven" engine that has never taken one up and being flown by a pilot so nervous you couldn't have driven a 10 penny nail up my ass with a sledge hammer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Done any spins in that V_Tail, yet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[76-914]

Didn't get to work on mine today but I did put another boot in Cancer's ass. I finally got this 19mm style finished for Stephan (aka 914forme) who made a "very generous" donation to the "Fund" for the Cap'n Krusty's niece.
I removed about 3lb's of rust so I primed and sealed your brake base plate to seal it until you paint. The clutch plate was just primed as it is new steel. Hence, the different shades. I went with the 1/8" increase you measured so it should fit the 19mm master cylinder. I need to pick up the correct length bolt for the brace then I can ship it to you. PM me for shipping info. FWIW, I'm very close to powering up the electrical on the BlackBird. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I should probably warn the Fire Dep't. ahead of time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[914forme]

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Thank you Thank you Thank you. This was such a win win you have done a great thing here.

[76-914]

OK Stephan, your baby is finished w/ new 8mm bolts. I threw in a cover you can weld to your pan. I threw a smaller spring inside the package. Throw away the one that is presently on there.



Now, back to work on my car. I didn't get to work on it the previous weekend or evenings these past few weeks but I did get some time in Saturday. Actually I did squeeze this 1 hr project in before Saturday. I wanted to keep this cover so I cut two slits, raised it up about 10mm then cut two small triangle pieces and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) them in. Damn that's some thin metal. Is there a rust filter I'm missing. All my work looks rusty in pic's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)





Continuing my trek thru Hell I started on the wiring that "I think" I will need in this area. The old relay board is long gone and all that remains is the 14 wire harness which you can see in the Chinese Pony Clamp. Of those 14 I am using 4 wires.





The Y will still go the starter solenoid, the B (switched +12v) will be my trigger for the relay controlling the new "switched ign" requirements, #12 R & #14 R are fused thru Tom's fuse block and will serve two requirements at the Suby ECU. Those 2 fuses will reduce to 15A.

I added this 4ga from the bat cable to the new "power dist area". BTW, most of this is temp and will be tidied up later.



There are 2 terminal blocks in the pic. One is switched power the other is + BAT.



Some scavenged relays. One for now and one for later.



I know of two things that will change in these pic's later. The fused terminal block isn't mounted and Tom's 4 fuse block will be changed to a 6 fused unit. The 8ga & 10ga wires I ran to the front as well as the switched and BAT terminals will be fused thru the unarrived fuse terminal block. This will make since once I install that fused dist block.

[euro911]

... I had an old Mapp Cylinder I saved just for this. So a quick pass thru the chop saw.





...

I had to cut some holes and slots into a couple of propane cylinders for one of my idiotic projects. I was absolutely positive they had been previously evacuated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)




Nice work, Kent

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[76-914]

Thanks Mark. I finally received that part so it might make sense now. The #4 wire feeds fused dist box. That box feeds 2 new lines thru the tunnel and the BAT terminal. There are two relays side by side. The relay on the left gets it's power from the BAT terminal, as well as a few other items. It in turn powers the +12v switched terminal. The 4 fuse box is hanging loose for now and 2 fuses changed to 15a. Next I need to wire the Y to the new starter circuit. The relay on the right will control the starter solenoid and take the load off that 41 yr old switch. I added another ground terminal next to the relays. That is 2 plus the factory ground on the left side! Can't have enough grounds. The rest I covered in the last post. After that I'm pretty much finished in the engine compartment and will need to connect 7 wires to the gages. I'll be on my knees asking questions at that point for sure.

[914forme]

Oh, wow that is outstanding! Here I was out huffing my Mapp Cylinder tonight, just trying to get it down to use for this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)4


Thanks again, great work, and it was my pleasure to help anyway I can.

[76-914]

Don't know why I didn't post this earlier. I received these a few weeks back. The L side fits fine but the right side is appx 1-2mm too long. I need to drop the engine once more so I will see if I can get it to fit once the engine is dropped a few inches. I think that my cradle might be out of square or the car for that matter. I should have measured both sides instead of assuming they are equal lengths. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) No matter, I'll sell them if not and cut another pair. My tranny lines up almost straight across so any trans that is offset by an inch or 2 should be OK to use these if I can't use them.

[rnellums]

So this is the side that fits right?

[BIGKAT_83]

As the car sets in the picture(axle level) how much movement do you have on the axle? Pushing into the transaxle cv joint.

Bob