'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[Chris H.]

Yeah that's exactly what I did. Grabbed the wrong punch and the tip snapped off inside the center of the pin too so now it's really going well. BEEEYOTCH! I'll leave it for a day and try the bolt trick after I attempt to tap the punch piece out of the center.

You should get that filler in 3 days or so. Then it'll be about time to start that thing! BTW I think the cap pressure rating is 1.1 (16 lbs I think) which is higher than most stock subaru cap ratings of .9. Makes it even more perfect since you are running two fillers. Just make sure you use a .9 cap (13 lbs) on the rear one and that way if it ever overheats the pressure will release on the rear one first. Not saying the front one won't pop too but logically it would have to be VERY hot to get the secondary one to open when the system was already open and blowing steam.

That's not gonna happen anyway because it will be super cool all the time and never overheat.

[76-914]

Yeah that's exactly what I did. Grabbed the wrong punch and the tip snapped off inside the center of the pin too so now it's really going well. BEEEYOTCH! I'll leave it for a day and try the bolt trick after I attempt to tap the punch piece out of the center.

You should get that filler in 3 days or so. Then it'll be about time to start that thing! BTW I think the cap pressure rating is 1.1 (16 lbs I think) which is higher than most stock subaru cap ratings of .9. Makes it even more perfect since you are running two fillers. Just make sure you use a .9 cap (13 lbs) on the rear one and that way if it ever overheats the pressure will release on the rear one first. Not saying the front one won't pop too but logically it would have to be VERY hot to get the secondary one to open when the system was already open and blowing steam.

That's not gonna happen anyway because it will be super cool all the time and never overheat.

A big thanks for that. That was along my line of thinking with the caps of different ratings. I'll mail that Mapp 1/2 cylinder off to you in a couple of days, too. Pretty busy w/ work this week.

[Chris H.]

No rush brother. I got plenty to do. Decided I need to pull my headers and get them jet-hot ceramic coated. They are practically touching the engine mounts. Gonna melt them for sure if I don't.

[76-914]

Well as the title says, I may have Shit in my Mess Kit but if I did I had fun and they will make nice ornaments. The Wtr Temp gage is good however tonite I began to search the Suby manual so I would know which wire went where from the Tach and Speedo. They 4 wires from each gage are COS+, COS-, SIN+ and SIN-. This part of the manual isn't clear but I think those wires go to a processor. ???? I'm stumped. Any ideas or suggestions??

[Chris H.]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

[904svo]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

There is a micro processor in the instrument cluster which drives the tach,speedometer and low fuel light.

[76-914]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

There is a micro processor in the instrument cluster which drives the tach,speedometer and low fuel light.

Yea, I thought so. I guess if you don't have an easy solution I'm screwed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I did give a quick look at the circuit board but that is way above a plumbers pay scale. Those are incredibly small lines to follow; I don't think I could solder anything to the board successfully; and if I could I wouldn't know which ones to use or not use. I'm not sure if those SVX gages would work, Chris. I'll probably go with Dakota if this can't be resolved, easily.

[904svo]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

There is a micro processor in the instrument cluster which drives the tach,speedometer and low fuel light.

Yea, I thought so. I guess if you don't have an easy solution I'm screwed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I did give a quick look at the circuit board but that is way above a plumbers pay scale. Those are incredibly small lines to follow; I don't think I could solder anything to the board successfully; and if I could I wouldn't know which ones to use or not use. I'm not sure if those SVX gages would work, Chris. I'll probably go with Dakota if this can't be resolved, easily.

You could extend the leads from the instrument panel to the gauges, and hid the
instrument panel under the dash.

[904svo]

On my conversion I used the stock 914 gauges, for the tach I added a adapter to convert the 5 volt pulse to a HV pulse to drive the tack. The speedometer uses the
stock 914 transmission drive cable. If you are using a stock gas tank you use the
stock gas gauge sender to drive the gas gauge, In my case I added a circuit to
drive the ecu (for emission testing) an to drive the stock gas gauge with a low
fuel indicator.

[76-914]

Yes, I've read (somewhere) about your tach conversion and will have to dig that up. And yes, I am using the stock fuel sender and gage, also. I'm running the Suby trans so I may end up with some magnetic pick up system (hall effect?).

[euro911]

Well as the title says, I may have Shit in my Mess Kit but if I did I had fun and they will make nice ornaments. The Wtr Temp gage is good however tonite I began to search the Suby manual so I would know which wire went where from the Tach and Speedo. They 4 wires from each gage are COS+, COS-, SIN+ and SIN-. This part of the manual isn't clear but I think those wires go to a processor. ???? I'm stumped. Any ideas or suggestions??

COS, SIN? ... are you going off on a TANGENT? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[76-914]

Where's my slide rule?

[904svo]

I think you are looking at the wrong sender for the speedo, it works off the VSS
sending unit mounted to the trans and is a 5 volt pulse. It is normally has three wires.

[ruby914]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

There is a micro processor in the instrument cluster which drives the tach,speedometer and low fuel light.

Yea, I thought so. I guess if you don't have an easy solution I'm screwed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I did give a quick look at the circuit board but that is way above a plumbers pay scale. Those are incredibly small lines to follow; I don't think I could solder anything to the board successfully; and if I could I wouldn't know which ones to use or not use. I'm not sure if those SVX gages would work, Chris. I'll probably go with Dakota if this can't be resolved, easily.

You could extend the leads from the instrument panel to the gauges, and hid the
instrument panel under the dash.

That is the direction I was thinking about. Off set the circuit board, extend the lights and and gauges in a new bezel.

[904svo]

Well the tach should connect to the ECU, or at least that's the way the SVX's works. Only one wire though. The speedo connects to the sensor on the trans but there are not 4 wires there either. Seems like that "circuit board" you pulled the pins out of was something you might need to use still. You can probably still use the gauges, just have to take a look at what that board does and maybe leave the gauges connected to it and solder a couple of wires for the speed sensor and tach wire. Also follow the wiring from that board back to the ECU and see if there is anything else in between. If not you can have the SVX gauges. I definitely won't use those.

There is a micro processor in the instrument cluster which drives the tach,speedometer and low fuel light.

Yea, I thought so. I guess if you don't have an easy solution I'm screwed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I did give a quick look at the circuit board but that is way above a plumbers pay scale. Those are incredibly small lines to follow; I don't think I could solder anything to the board successfully; and if I could I wouldn't know which ones to use or not use. I'm not sure if those SVX gages would work, Chris. I'll probably go with Dakota if this can't be resolved, easily.

You could extend the leads from the instrument panel to the gauges, and hid the
instrument panel under the dash.

That is the direction I was thinking about. Off set the circuit board, extend the lights and and gauges in a new bezel.

The 914 sending unit should operate the Subaru fuel gauge if you wire it up to the
instrument cluster. They both use 0-90 ohm senders.

[Chris H.]

Think I'm starting to migrate back towards the original direction of Speedhut gauges. I want something a little newer looking and those are so easy to set up. I'm not as good with small electrical stuff as you all are.

Kent I have the same Impreza gauge pod (manual trans so no PRND321 on it) and a tach adapt to change the tach to 6 cylinder readout. The speedo should connect to the vss on your trans. Probably would let them go for less than I paid (which is not much) if you decide you want to go that way.

Don't feel obligated, just telling you so you don't go buy 'em somewhere else for more. I think I got the gauge for ~$40 and the tach adapt for $65.

[76-914]

I think you are looking at the wrong sender for the speedo, it works off the VSS
sending unit mounted to the trans and is a 5 volt pulse. It is normally has three wires.

This is what confuses me. I have a single lead from the ECU (smallcar harness) that is tagged for the tachto but the tach is the same set up as the speedo with 4 wires as shown below. Also a pic of the circ board they came from. Any idea which post are used and which are not?

Think I'm starting to migrate back towards the original direction of Speedhut gauges. I want something a little newer looking and those are so easy to set up. I'm not as good with small electrical stuff as you all are.

Kent I have the same Impreza gauge pod (manual trans so no PRND321 on it) and a tach adapt to change the tach to 6 cylinder readout. The speedo should connect to the vss on your trans. Probably would let them go for less than I paid (which is not much) if you decide you want to go that way.

Don't feel obligated, just telling you so you don't go buy 'em somewhere else for more. I think I got the gauge for ~$40 and the tach adapt for $65.

Shit, me too, Chris. I don't have a problem with cutting my losses. I checked my circuit board and it is cracked in a few places so that door is closed. If it weren't I'd take SVO's advice and hide the board. All I need is a speedo and tach so I may go the Speedhut or Dakota route. I'll keep your adp in mind if I go that route.

[Chris H.]

Check out the Speedhut stuff. The tach is totally programmable for most any engine and the speedo is gps. By the time you spend money on the senders you're half way there. A 4.5 inch tach and a 4" speedo revolution series is what I'm looking at. Brand new gauges, plug and play. The tach instructions are on the site too and show how to set it up on a bunch of different engine configurations. I'll go quad gauge too I think.

[914forme]

SpeedHuts are very shallow install depths. I like them, they also do a nice quad quad gauge if your looking for one of them. To be honest By the time you get done doing all the work, it is way cheaper to go this route. I just did them because I like to and it keeps me off the streets at night! But at some point in time if it is keeping you off the streets, it has a larger cost damage than the benefit of being a CSOB.

[Chris H.]

Right because you end up buying 6 different kinds of gauges to try with the CSOB method. Hence my collection of VDO and Denso swag.