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> '73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0"
rnellums
post Dec 25 2015, 01:50 PM
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I went through all this too. The relatively large single exit limits your mandrel bend angle. I like how you ran the piepes under the axle. Did you run 2" all the way back?
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76-914
post Dec 25 2015, 10:40 PM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Dec 25 2015, 11:50 AM) *

I went through all this too. The relatively large single exit limits your mandrel bend angle. I like how you ran the piepes under the axle. Did you run 2" all the way back?

Yeh Ross, it's 2" all the way. .5" clearance between axle and exhaust. I'll probably wrap the u joint and 90 to cut down on heat.
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rnellums
post Dec 26 2015, 04:40 AM
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I had mine internally and externally ceramic coated and it really seemed to help. The pipes hardly seem hot while running and cost <100$ for my entire system.
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76-914
post Dec 26 2015, 08:50 AM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Dec 26 2015, 02:40 AM) *

I had mine internally and externally ceramic coated and it really seemed to help. The pipes hardly seem hot while running and cost <100$ for my entire system.

Was it Jet Hot Coating or do you have a link?
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rnellums
post Dec 29 2015, 10:40 AM
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I think the powder coater used Cerakote, I got the satin black coating as the aluminum engine has enough bling by itself!

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76-914
post Jan 2 2016, 08:14 PM
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I found this after a New Years Day run in the mountains. It also (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) me at WCR and I thought the clamps would stop the rubbing but evidently not.

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Time to stop this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) and bring everything inside. I did this on the other side originally. But I got cute with the drivers side and it didn't work so on to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

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Trim piece and a quick test fit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

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Welded in and painted

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And Presto. I should have done this earlier but some times I convince myself that something is too much of a PITA and prolong the misery. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

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76-914
post Jan 4 2016, 05:25 PM
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I forgot the member that originally posted on Dallas Coley's work but I sure want to thank him. "That" member, not to be confused with "That guy", recently posted he had Dallas refinish his license plate so I thought "What the Heck" and called Dallas. He said that he could indeed refinish license plate frames so I sent him this one....

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And $70 later (total incl shpg) I receive this, Dallas does good work and for those looking, I'd suggest you give Dallas a try. BTW, he has very good communication skills.

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76-914
post Jan 28 2016, 08:58 PM
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It took about 5 min's to realize I hated my new mufflers. They were almost the opposite of the 4"x10" Glass Packs I had been running. The Glass Packs were loud as Hell when under load but had a sweet note at cruise. The 3 chambered MagnaFlows were quieter under load but louder at cruise + they produced a terrible drone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) So just for shits and grins I stuck the glass packs inline on the exhaust stub outs. I should have taken a pic. Looked like a Hill Billy mod. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) But guess what? It now produced exactly the sound I was looking for but how to do this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Bob (BIGKAT) had tried to tell me this a year ago but I didn't think there was room. Once again I was wrong as you can see in these 2 pic's. Just needed to use a couple of 90's, shorten my cable shift mount 1.5" and those glass packs fit right in.

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I had to weld in some stub outs after the 2 glass packs were stuck together.

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I added anther couple of flange sets so I could remove the new addition to service shifter attach points and cables.

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Added a little insulation for heat barrier.

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This is what I ended up with and the Dreaded Drone is gone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I'm running without a fairing for now but will probably add one later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

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rightpedal
post Jan 29 2016, 08:12 AM
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I totally dig on the new exhaust. I'm a sucker for the center exit. Summit has a fully welded muffler that I run on everything. Its cheap, sounds good under power, and real quiet in cruse conditions.
They probably cost me a little power over a chambered muffler but I don't really care.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product...-turbo-mufflers

Steve
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rhodyguy
post Jan 29 2016, 08:31 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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I wonder what that setup would sound like on a stockish t-4 running heat exchangers. Low cost alternative to the systems currently out there. Looks cool. Looking forward to the YouTube sound bite if you post one.
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914forme
post Jan 30 2016, 09:01 AM
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Thank you for the info Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) , new setup looks good. So crap, Looks like I'll be running a rear Valance also. Mufflers hand down to far, time to dig mine up, and get to work, just when I thought that area was all done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I am glad you found a solution to your issue, and where willing to share it once again.
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thieuster
post Jan 30 2016, 12:10 PM
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Any chance of a vid with sound? It looks very, very promising!

Menno
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76-914
post Jan 30 2016, 04:53 PM
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Thanks guys. I don't have a GoPro so I stuck my camera on the dash. Sound quality isn't great but it covers most driving styles and you'll get an idea. The top is off so there is wind noise. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh-ClYj9LQ8...eature=youtu.be
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euro911
post Jan 30 2016, 06:12 PM
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Sounds good to me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Chris H.
post Jan 30 2016, 09:19 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Nailed it. WAY quieter than before.
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jimkelly
post Jan 30 2016, 09:24 PM
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wow... sounds great!!
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mgp4591
post Jan 31 2016, 12:24 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jan 30 2016, 03:53 PM) *

Thanks guys. I don't have a GoPro so I stuck my camera on the dash. Sound quality isn't great but it covers most driving styles and you'll get an idea. The top is off so there is wind noise. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh-ClYj9LQ8...eature=youtu.be

From what I can hear it sounds good but you're right, the quality isn't the best. Could you take a shot from the back with you starting up and give us a throttle goose or two?Maybe even hold a higher rpm for a bit at the speed it used to drone on you?
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rhodyguy
post Jan 31 2016, 08:33 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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You should have someone record a drive by @ around 5k rpm. No valance needed. You're a clever fellow. A bit of an extension on the outlets, just short of 'banging your shins', would look good too.
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Mr.Nobody
post Mar 4 2016, 01:03 AM
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Just read through the entire thread. Awesome info. Thanks for documenting everything.

Hope to see the car someday. I'm actually just south of you. I'm in SD, but my 914 is in Fallbrook.

Great job on your car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914
post Mar 4 2016, 10:57 AM
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Well thanks but you can ditch what I said about radiators and go this route if you do a conversion. The Sirocco radiator was fine unless you wanted to race uphill in 95F weather, add an AC or tax it in any way. IOW, it was minimal. Given others recent change over to the Celica GT version, I hopped aboard. It is a dual core unit that fits quite well in the space allotted. Price was $167 shipped to my front door. I'm a little skeptical of the fans that came with it but we shall see.
The first step was to build a frame to hold the new radiator and condenser. I won't bore you with the dimensions.

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You can see the rubber shocks in place that the radiator sits upon. These were pulled off the donor car 2 years ago, removed from the OEM bracket and added to this steel frame.

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Next the frame is welded at the bottom to the trunk floor. At this stage the frame is semi-ridged as it is attached only at the bottom. The top will be supported by a re-enforced lid. Note the foam tape in place to serve as a seal.

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Now the radiator is fitted onto the frame and sits upon the lower rubber shocks. The upper rubber shocks have been added at this point as well. Again, these were removed from the donor car and the OEM bracket was cut to fit and painted.

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The condenser is test fitted and the C shaped stand-offs are added to the top. These will have plate nuts for the lid to screw into and hold the radiator firmly in place and more importantly, to hold the radiator tightly against the seal on the frame.

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The 3/4" square tube is added, next to the stand-offs, that will have a rubber seal strip and complete the seal from lid to radiator. (It's also shown 2 pic's back.)

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And as it looks once buttoned up. I'm going to run this set up a few weeks w/o the condenser then re-install it to see how temps will vary. More later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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