'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[Larmo63]

You're NOT putting a Japanese engine in a German car, are you?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

[jimkelly]

nice duct work BUT i thought the consensus was that suby did not require much air flow.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=opening

jim

[A&P Mech]

Looks great Kent! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[JRust]

Well done Kent! So the real question is. Did it fix the heat issue with your tank?

[76-914]

Thx Ray. AC fittings finally arrived and so I was able to button everything up . Here are a few pics of the finished product. Jamie. I won't know for a week or so.

[76-914]

I've driven the car about 5 times since completing the new duct work. Usually for about an hour at a time with temps ranging 87-92F. The gas tank has remained cool to the touch after all test drives, so far. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) After this evenings drive I touched the metal ducts and the right side was hotter than the left. I wonder if that Celica dual core radiator passes the water thru one side before the other? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I also installed a new fan controller today so it may be that the right fan was the only fan activated. I'll install some small LEDs to show when the fans are running. I can't hear them and I don't want them running when on the hi way. My old Derale controller ate it so I replaced it with this Dakota unit. I've always been pleased their attention to quality and am thus far happy with this purchase. They require a dry cool climate so I located it next to the fuse panel. It's programable too; whether you have 1 or 2 fans; 1 speed, 2 speed or variable speed fans as well. Can use your engines temp sender and gage or get the info from your ECU with the $40 adapter. One advantage of this methods is the controller knows your speed and will shut down the fans on the hi way when connected to the ECU. I went the simple route with a single sender. I may have some in/out parameters to dial in but so far so good. The real test comes tomorrow. I will be on the 15 S 80 mph in 92F+ and I'll be running the AC. Hopefully I'll make Cruising Grand. I've had to abort enroute to the last 2 events. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This is the 12v spade connector that supplied the old controller.





Remnants of the old relay. Notice the residue on the male spades? It's melted circuit board.



The new controller mounted

[914forme]

Very nice,

Looking at it, I see an A/C terminal. This traditional is used to run a fan to pull air through the A/C condenser even if your coolant is not up to temp. Not sure if you need to hook it up or not. Here in humid Ohio, yeah I would hook it up.

Best of luck on the trip and let us know how it goes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Chris914n6]

I've driven the car about 5 times since completing the new duct work. Usually for about an hour at a time with temps ranging 87-92F. The gas tank has remained cool to the touch after all test drives, so far. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) After this evenings drive I touched the metal ducts and the right side was hotter than the left. I wonder if that Celica dual core radiator passes the water thru one side before the other? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

You're confusing 2 core with 2 pass. Celica rad is one 1 pass, sounds like only 1 fan is running.
If you have it set for 2 different run temps if might not be hitting the 2nd. My second fan only comes on in town on hot days.

[76-914]

Well, the trip was a smashing success. When I left Temecula it was 90 something degrees. I ran 80mph (that is the minimum speed limit in SoCal) with the AC blasting and the fans never even came on. Temp stayed centered, which it always has, but the big news is the gas tank was cool to the touch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) The return trip was the same speed but temps were down about 6-8F and I didn't use the AC. Same result. Cool gasoline. Now the fuel pressure hasn't dropped below 49psi since the fuel is no longer piping hot. My cabin is now much cooler too. I think I can finally put this major PITA to bed. That was an 18 month long puzzle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Unless there is a Gremlin hiding somewhere this car is basically finished sans a paint job. Everything now runs together harmoniously.
Elliot once asked me whether it was more difficult to build this car than it was to build an airplane. Now that it is finally "ironed out" I can say that it was positively more difficult to build this car than the airplane. There will be the usual maintenance items but nothing worth posting in this build thread. If I discover anything that doesn't work I'll mention it here. Other than editing some of my boo boos out of this thread I'll ask Andy to move this thread and call it a wrap. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this build. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[A&P Mech]

Whoa, whoa, whoa! Move the thread? Car is done? None of this is making sense to me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Maybe I drive a completely different type of project then you? Done? Is that possible? I thought without consistent tinkering a 914 will progress to its natural state of rest on jackstands? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) Say it isn't so!

[greggearhead]

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. It has all kinds of useful info for the Subie swap project car my step son and I will be building.

[SzoylentGreen]

Great thread Kent!

So I read through it and noticed you went from the 3/4 and 7/8 rubber lines to the metal 1.25” lines, but couldn’t find exactly in the thread you made the change.

What was your experience with the smaller lines?

What was the issue with the smaller lines that motivated you to change to the larger ones, and did the larger ones fix the issue?

Thanks man

[76-914]

@SzoylentGreen At times, ignorance reigns supreme. Here is the condensed version. When I went to a larger radiator I thought it a good idea to enlarge the front opening. In doing so I increased the incoming air volume/pressure to the point that it began heating the gas in the gas tank. Ignorance helped me overlook my mistake and told me the radiator was getting too hot although the temp gage never moved off dead center. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Ignorance took my hand and convinced me that the fuel pump was cooking the gas so out came the tank and another was installed with an external pump. Didn't help a bit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Again, ignorance convinced me to changed out the lines to a larger size but the gas tank was still getting hot and causing vapor lock. It was too hot to touch sometimes! Finally I ducted the radiator exhaust out the wheel wells and Viola, success.
There was absolutely no temperature or performance differences noted between the small hoses vs the larger hose. I'd also like to mention that contrary to what I'd heard, running the hoses thru the longs did not transfer any heat into the cabin or sidewalls. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
What I learned: 1) Don't violate the 20% rule e.g. the exit area should be 20% larger than the intake area. 2) Duct the radiator if you can. Then the cabin will remain as cool as it did before the H20 conversion. I have a V-8 conversion that allows hot air to enter the cabin, albeit minor. I've ridden in other conversions that also allow unwanted heat in the cabin. I will say that if the top is removed it isn't as noticeable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[SzoylentGreen]

@SzoylentGreen At times, ignorance reigns supreme. Here is the condensed version. When I went to a larger radiator I thought it a good idea to enlarge the front opening. In doing so I increased the incoming air volume/pressure to the point that it began heating the gas in the gas tank. Ignorance helped me overlook my mistake and told me the radiator was getting too hot although the temp gage never moved off dead center. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Ignorance took my hand and convinced me that the fuel pump was cooking the gas so out came the tank and another was installed with an external pump. Didn't help a bit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Again, ignorance convinced me to changed out the lines to a larger size but the gas tank was still getting hot and causing vapor lock. It was too hot to touch sometimes! Finally I ducted the radiator exhaust out the wheel wells and Viola, success.
There was absolutely no temperature or performance differences noted between the small hoses vs the larger hose. I'd also like to mention that contrary to what I'd heard, running the hoses thru the longs did not transfer any heat into the cabin or sidewalls. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
What I learned: 1) Don't violate the 20% rule e.g. the exit area should be 20% larger than the intake area. 2) Duct the radiator if you can. Then the cabin will remain as cool as it did before the H20 conversion. I have a V-8 conversion that allows hot air to enter the cabin, albeit minor. I've ridden in other conversions that also allow unwanted heat in the cabin. I will say that if the top is removed it isn't as noticeable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Hi, this is Andy from FB BTW.

Thanks for the info. Hey, how low does the EZ30 oil pan hang? Is it much lower than the type 4 motor oil pan?

I’m still working on the design for my center radiator. It’s defintly going to be ducted.
If you look at the ideal ram air duct, This one is used in almost all of the modern race cars, no matter open- or closed-wheel racer car. This design changes the speed and the pressure of the incoming air. The basic principle behind this is to slow the air in front of the radiator and transform the dynamic pressure to static pressure, raising the static pressure at the same time. This type of duct is usually made long, so that the air has time to settle.

In most cases, automotive applications can’t get very close to the ideal shape beciuse of packaging constraints.

In my case, I’m sandwiching the radiator between then bumper and the tub (porsche 912), and going to try to make the underside of the bumper act like the ram duct, smaller entrance and an expansion chamber. Then, behind the radiator will be a duct that directs the exhaust air downwards. This approach puts the inlets and outlets across a large pressure difference areas (in front of the bumper is always the highest pressure, and under the car is a low pressure region). The approach I’m going with is actually kind of similar to what Porsche did with the 996, and also very similar to the Toyota MR2. In fact, the MR2 only has about 3” behind the radiator, and most of this is taken up with fans, much like my planned duct.

[partwerks]

Kent.... here is how I did my mufflers. At cruise this is as quiet as my wifes Camry.
When I'm at a stoplight I have to look at the tach to make sure its still running.
From the rear

Under

That's what I want. Quiet!