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> Suspension and Brake Refresh, New Wheels and Suspension Adjusted
tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 9 2019, 10:55 AM
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Back is done, on to the front (later in this thread)

Hey guys,

Starting winter projects: Rear Brakes/Suspension are up first.

-This is a street/daily driver. Just trying to get the sagging ass up and improve the ride quality. -

So far I've got New:
100lb Weltmesiter 914rubber Springs
914rubber upper and lower shock rubber bushings

Plan is to buy:
KYG 9003 Bilstein Struts
Rear control arm bushings (914Rubber)
Rear Caliper Rebuild Kit (If that seems beyond me I will send to PMB)

Discs and Pads will be addressed as needed once I get it all apart. Turn the discs if needed or replace with new pads. We shall see.

Any suggestions on anything else with the rear brakes/suspension??

Thanks all! -Rob

Front Suspension/Brakes will be part 2 of the project. Just trying to keep it manageable and on budget ish
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mepstein
post Oct 9 2019, 11:01 AM
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Just say NO to KYB struts. Spend the money on Bilsteins. You wont be dissapointed.
Always do new brake soft lines if you don't know or cant remember when they were last done.
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914_teener
post Oct 9 2019, 11:51 AM
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Hope your budget is $1800.


Might as well do adjustable perches for the Billy's.


Do the bushings yourself and the alignment. You will learn a lot and it's not that hard.


You should check and repack the CV's while you are there and with all that said may never have to touch the rear suspension ever....at least it depends how old you are and have the car.

Good wrenching.
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SirAndy
post Oct 9 2019, 12:02 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 9 2019, 10:01 AM) *
Just say NO to KYB struts

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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Tbrown4x4
post Oct 9 2019, 05:13 PM
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PMB is the benchmark for caliper rebuilds, but I had good luck rebuilding my own with caliper paint and parts bought from PMB. Eric can also just plate your caliper halves if you take them apart first. Change out the brake hoses too.

No KYBs! They're cheaper for a reason. My Koni reds (rear shocks) started leaking, so I pulled the nice looking KYB's off my parts car. They had Weltmeister 140lb springs on them and the car rode like it had no suspension at all. I put new Koni adjustable shocks (with 3 clicks from full soft) in the 140 springs and I really like the ride. Firm, but compliant. I put 100 miles a day on I-5, and still have my kidneys. My car doesn't have sway bars.

I only have experience with rubber suspension bushings. I would probably use original type rubber or maybe a little firmer for a daily.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17338-1570663066.1.jpg)


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rhodyguy
post Oct 9 2019, 05:31 PM
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Better off spending more now rather than might being unhappy later. Deduct what ever you spend on KYBs from the upgrade. Koni yellows are nice due to the ex adj feature. Have a look at Paragon's site. Struts and shocks are prob one of the most rewarding tasks on a 914. 2-4 hours and you have a new car. Inspect the bushings on the tie rods.
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roblav1
post Oct 9 2019, 06:23 PM
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As others said, don't use KYB.
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914Sixer
post Oct 10 2019, 04:22 AM
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KYB= Kill Your Back. If you want to feel every pebble on the road, stay a way from KYB.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 10 2019, 07:40 AM
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Awesome, thanks for the input guys.

Sounds like Koni or Bilstein for the shocks and I'll add new brake soft hoses to the list.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 10 2019, 07:41 AM
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@Tbrown4x4 did I see you by the Olympia airport a few days ago? Great looking car!
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Tbrown4x4
post Oct 11 2019, 04:54 AM
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I was down that way for a wedding , but we took the Wife's Focus.

Besides, if it was "great looking", it wasn't me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 24 2019, 10:24 PM
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Hey guys!
I've seen a few methods online but what is the best way to get these bushings out of the rear control arms?

After much swearing, hammering and torching I finally got everything torn out and disassembled. Going to sandblast the calipers tomorrow and am awaiting parts from Pelican and 914 Rubber.

Discovered much half assed work from PO much to my amusement. Finally figured out why the right wheel had so much camber than the left...no shim! LolAttached Image
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914werke
post Oct 25 2019, 12:24 AM
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From that pic it looks like you may have more work ahead of you.
Having done a few of these ... the problem youll find is that your pivot shafts are going to be pretty rusty & corroded where the OE vulcanized rubber was attached.
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Tbrown4x4
post Oct 25 2019, 05:01 AM
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I'm reading that you are blasting the calipers, so I assume you're painting them. Make sure no blast media gets into the bleeder hole (or any other caliper passages for that matter). I had to run a wire through mine to clear out some grit. Also, Rustoleum discontinued the silver caliper paint that I used. You're stuck with black or red. VHT, Eastwood and Duplicolor caliper paints are only good for 500-600 degrees, whereas the Rustoleum paints are good for 900. I also used the 2000 deg primer, but the Rustoleum Rep said the caliper paint is direct to metal. I've got over 3000 miles of driving on mine with no discoloration of the silver.
Also clean out any paint overspray where brake fluid will be with solvent.
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mepstein
post Oct 25 2019, 06:13 AM
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QUOTE(tvdinnerbythepool @ Oct 25 2019, 12:24 AM) *

Hey guys!
I've seen a few methods online but what is the best way to get these bushings out of the rear control arms?

After much swearing, hammering and torching I finally got everything torn out and disassembled. Going to sandblast the calipers tomorrow and am awaiting parts from Pelican and 914 Rubber.

Discovered much half assed work from PO much to my amusement. Finally figured out why the right wheel had so much camber than the left...no shim! LolAttached Image

Either heat from a torch or a press. I’ve done both. Torch is the fastest. Heat until you get some smoke and then pry out with a screwdriver. Same with the rubber a arm bushings.
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 25 2019, 09:59 AM
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@914werke for sure! It was a ton of work just to get this far and I'm ready for a rough road ahead!

@mepstein copy the heat/press

@Tbrown4x4 calipers are taped up/holes stuffed etc but will ensure nothing got by and wilco on the paint, still exploring options

Thanks for the input guys!
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tvdinnerbythepool
post Oct 25 2019, 10:49 AM
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1 down! Took about 40 minutes with heat and press.
A little pitting on one end but should lean up nicely


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mepstein
post Oct 25 2019, 11:17 AM
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Mine took 5-10 minutes each side but I really laid in the heat. I was blasting and powder coating after so I didn’t worry about the paint. I was thinking about building up the pits with jb weld and then sanding smooth but I haven’t done it yet. I’m not sure it makes any difference.
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914werke
post Oct 25 2019, 11:42 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Mmmm IDK... I chuck them up in the lathe & take a mil off of them to get down to clean smooth metal before reusing.
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TonyA
post Oct 25 2019, 01:31 PM
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Like that operating room clean look of your shop. .
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