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> Fix a six, Like Neil Young says...rust is an insomniac
Ferg
post May 17 2016, 08:39 AM
Post #261


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QUOTE(Speedo @ May 16 2016, 05:16 PM) *

QUOTE(Ferg @ May 10 2016, 07:30 AM) *

Who is going to paint this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)


You are (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)


Six pack of PBR should do it...
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Luke M
post Jun 2 2016, 09:00 AM
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Speedo
post Jun 10 2016, 12:35 PM
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Welding and grinding plug welds...some ongoing progress. Working on shop addition for the next few weeks (weather depending). Need the space and a place for a lift.
Think I am going to pull the trigger on an oscillating multi-tool and one of these...
Dynazip 18255, the Dent Fix DF701 or the Sunex SX8200
Started a thread on PP on these and the general consensus was dry ice, dry ice. For flat surfaces I get it. And yes with a rotisserie, I can make any surface flat...technically/sort of. But I think specific tools for working inside wheel wells and other tight quarters would be productive. And nobody answered the question as to how well dry ice works with 50 year old "hardened by dinosaurs" seam sealer. I have the tool credit on Amazon...if I don't like it I can return it. Pics shortly...
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Speedo
post Jun 12 2016, 12:21 PM
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The finished (mostly) shelf area...
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Ferg
post Jun 13 2016, 08:52 AM
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Looks good!

About time for Lunch with racer boy don't you think?

Ferg (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Speedo
post Oct 16 2017, 06:46 PM
Post #266


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Been quiet, but working. Almost all the way around the car. Now on the aft end of the drivers front fender...peeling the onion back. So where the fender is welded to the "bonnet" (lower horizontal below the windscreen), there is lead. Like on the 911 fenders, the 914 fender tends to rust by the fender joining panel and mine was no different. With that corner removed...it would make sense to splice the corner in and then re-lead. Obviously I cannot re-lead and then weld that corner back in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Shiny area is where the lead is below the A pillar.

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Speedo
post Oct 16 2017, 06:57 PM
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My question is...on 911s the fender is bolted up to the inner fender in this area and a thin plastic separator is inserted as the fender bolts are tightened. Any lead work in this area on the 911 is done prior to painting. On the 914, given that the fender is welded up...is the required lead work in this area done after the fender is welded up? and how do you keep the slot between the top rear of the fender and bonnet from filling up with lead? Seems like you would need the equivalent of a concrete sidewalk trowel tool to maintain the gap as there is no vinyl to insert. Am I overthinking this?

I still need to repair the perforations in the lip in front of the bonnet before welding the fender splice in place, and there will probably be some leading going on there. But it can be done after the steel is welded in. BTW the Eastwood wire wheel undercoating removal tool is the bats ass in this area. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Nov 8 2017, 12:46 PM
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I've used lead back in the day. There is a serious learning curve that's for sure. My explanation of the process is to install the fenders then go through the tinning/leading process. The key is the warming and paddling of the filler. You want to get it to a plastic state. It should not run. Lead is usually soft enough to sand, scrape and file. If you need to apply more to fill a low spot after filing it is important to finesse the plastic material and get the rewarming just right to allow the new layer to adhere to the filed layer.

As far as the seam goes, a piece of sheet metal should work as a form or a dam. Just leave enough space to slip a piece of 36 grit sand paper in there to final shape.

The one drawback with using this Archaic process is it burns the primer and any paint off the back side of the panel. If you have no access to retreat these areas you are opening the car up to rust forming from the inside out.

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nihil44
post Nov 9 2017, 12:47 AM
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Speedo,

Could you possibly post a photo as in post # 266 but zoomed a little way out so all of the vertical surface of the fender can be seen.

I hope to be moving into that area soon and I haven't got a good understanding of the anatomy of that area. I am intending replacing the whole fender and not sure where or how to attach the replacement.

Thanks heaps

David
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tygaboy
post Nov 9 2017, 08:42 AM
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Cary is wrapping up a detailed rebuild of this same area. Check starting at post #400 here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9327&st=400
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 06:52 PM
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Moving along...
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:00 PM
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Cut and fit and...
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:18 PM
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And more...
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:22 PM
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And finishing this corner of the cowl...
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:28 PM
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And now the fender...
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:37 PM
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Couple more getting ready to weld... Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
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Ferg
post Jan 2 2018, 02:38 PM
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Nice work Lars, keep it up.
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Speedo
post Jan 15 2018, 08:27 PM
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So a couple of the 914 "grand masters" came up today to see if I have totally screwed up the splice of the driver side aft fender. Word was that it looked ok to close it up. I have measured and measured...comparing the driver side opening with the passenger side.
I went ahead and committed the splice.
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brant
post Jan 15 2018, 09:13 PM
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Nice!
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Ferg
post Jan 16 2018, 10:45 AM
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