Fix a six, Like Neil Young says...rust is an insomniac Options

[Speedo]

"You guys take it from here...."
This was where you guys were going to weigh in...hmmm, everybody must be out in the shop wrenching.

I may get most of these questions answered the easy way as Brant gave my son a killer deal on an extra 72 1.7 project he had. I will let him start his own thread as he dives into the beast. Fortunately for me, I can answer a lot of my "finish" questions by simply looking at his car...as it looks to be completely original. So thanks Brant!

[Speedo]

Paint time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
Decision has been made to go with Apex Autobody in Denver.
He (Dave) came and looked at the car a couple months ago and I have been waiting for my turn in queue. I will trailer it down tomorrow am, and do the hand-off. A bit nervous as I haven't worked with them before, but during my visit to the shop, they had some $$ Porsche cars in progress and the metal work looked very good. My recent history with painters has not been great...so this time around I am going to get a written contract with a "not to exceed" clause. He assured me that any further sandblasting would be done on site.

I will need some guidance from the board as to how the body should have been correctly finished. To be specific...the steps involved in the application of "product". Such as ...
primer-seamsealer-undercoating-color and where on the chassis this all goes. I am of the impression that chassis was primed, then seamsealed then undercoated, then color over the entire chassis. Hopefully this is easier than figuring out specific year 911 paint.

He will get the car for as long as he wants...and that will allow me to decide what I will do for the engine. Original engine is pickled. I can rebuild it, or leave it on the shelf and build something different. I have a 2.7 RS spec engine ready to go back together, as well as a twin plug 3.0 MFI waiting to be rebuilt. The EASIEST thing to do would be to build the original engine, and save the hot-rod engines for another day/project.

I'll throw some pics up shortly.

[brant]

Nice progress

I'm sure the paint will be a much better experience than you have had in the past

I'm not even sure if the seam sealer is under the primer or above.
anyone??????

[Ferg]

So what you are saying is that you have space in the garage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Speedo]

So what you are saying is that you have space in the garage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Briefly. His older (mid-engined) brother is coming in early August.

Leif's yellow 914 stole the space under the lift. Cut-fit-weld...repeat.

[Speedo]

I'm not even sure if the seam sealer is under the primer or above.
anyone??????

These are the questions I need to get a handle on...anyone x 2?

[Luke M]

I'm not even sure if the seam sealer is under the primer or above.
anyone??????

These are the questions I need to get a handle on...anyone x 2?

Hi Lars,

Spray epoxy sealer first, seam seal, spray high build primer over the seam sealer then spray the color. I'm not a painter but pretty sure that's that way to do it.
If you want the correct answer pm Kent ( 914350 ). He painted a few 6's for some of the guys on here.

[Cairo94507]

Yup. Kent is your man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[BPic]

For plating and some other answers to questions I had I went here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=101921

The photos are perfect for this sort of thing.

[Speedo]

Finally send the beast to Apex after a few minor delays. He has become quite the Porsche place...speedsters to RSRs with everything in between. We disagree on a few things with respect to paint...so he will focus on prep and I will figure out the paint details. My shop dolly was designed to roll around the shop. Wasn't intended to deal with lateral loads...so I secured the chassis to the dolly, then the dolly to the trailer, then with some extra ratchets, the chassis to the trailer. And I still drove like a grandmother. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Good news was that it worked fine with no issues, bad news was that he decided he wanted to keep and use my dolly vs his dollys. Probably the best thing about him keeping the dolly is that it will keep me from diving into another project. I need to quickly decide what I am going to do for an engine...
a) rebuild original 2.0 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
b) plug in a 2.0 or 2.2 S MFI engine (both needing rebuild) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
c) rebuild 2.7 RS spec engine (webers) which came with the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
d) ...there is that 3.0 twin plug MFI Andial engine up on the shelf (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[sixnotfour]

2.2 S MFI engine (both needing rebuild)
c) rebuild 2.7 RS spec engine (webers) which came with the car

make it a 2.4S

[Speedo]

12 straps...I use 4 to secure my race car...

[Speedo]

[/quote]Spray epoxy sealer first, seam seal, spray high build primer over the seam sealer then spray the color. I'm not a painter but pretty sure that's that way to do it.
If you want the correct answer pm Kent ( 914350 ). He painted a few 6's for some of the guys on here.
[/quote]

I have crickets from 914350 (Kent). If anybody knows him, tell him I'm not stalking him and it is ok to answer.

I agree with your steps Luke, now I need clarification on where undercoating goes (underside of floors and wheelwells?) and where body color paint goes. My painter is adamant that some areas like 911s are black. I am pretty sure the entire body gets color, and there are some select areas that get a limited amount of black such as the dash and strut tops.

I have determined that I will (store the original 6 and stroke a 2.2 T engine with 2.2 S P and Cs to 2.4 S specs and run some rebuilt Weber 40 IDAs. I could do an MFI engine...but that would be more complicated. And the Webers will look original. If I have cooling issues, I will figure out an aux cooler setup.
I am needing a 2.4-2.7 crank and rods, so if anyone here has an extra please PM me. Looks like a shop in CO Springs can open the heads up for me to 36-35mm and I have pretty much everything else. Engine teardown starts this weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I am going to run 6 x 15 fuchs instead of the 5.5 x 14s., so I need to send a set off to Al Reed soon. Rear fenders are already rolled and from what I understand, a simple 205 50 15 tire profile won't have fitment issues.

[Speedo]

So I have pressed out the bearings and cleaned up the control arms, and primed them. Plan is to press new bearings in and repaint. Two questions 1) as I will be using a hydraulic press, is it necessary to refrigerate the bearings prior to installation or is that the approach to take when you are using the PVC and bolt and nut method? And 2) black semi-gloss on the control arm for paint?

Thanks!

[mepstein]

So I have pressed out the bearings and cleaned up the control arms, and primed them. Plan is to press new bearings in and repaint. Two questions 1) as I will be using a hydraulic press, is it necessary to refrigerate the bearings prior to installation or is that the approach to take when you are using the PVC and bolt and nut method? And 2) black semi-gloss on the control arm for paint?

Thanks!

The guys at our shop just press them in. When I told them about freezing they just sort of looked at me and said why? But they don't often have the time to prep the bearing in the freezer. I do freeze them because they go in straight and eazy with very little force. I feel like that is a plus for a bearing you want to last for a while.

[rjames]

Mine slide right in by hand after freezing. I could’ve used a press, but why make it harder than it needs to be?

[Speedo]

Ok, in the freezer they go.
Next question was black semi gloss for the control arm?
And the square backing plate that secures the bearing...black or zinc?
Mine was so cruddy it was hard to tell how it was originally plated.
Something tells me yellow zinc.

[Luke M]

Ok, in the freezer they go.
Next question was black semi gloss for the control arm?
And the square backing plate that secures the bearing...black or zinc?
Mine was so cruddy it was hard to tell how it was originally plated.
Something tells me yellow zinc.

Hi Lars,

I'm working on the rear control arms of my 6 as well. I'm going to have my rear control arms powder coated gloss black (just my preference) and the hardware yellow zinc.
I'm using a 911 e-brake setup with Boxster calipers so not stock to begin with.

Freeze the bearings prior to install, I believe the arms came semi-gloss black from the factory, and yellow zinc on the bearing plates.

Post some pics of the 6 when it gets back from paint.

[bbrock]

Ok, in the freezer they go.
Next question was black semi gloss for the control arm?
And the square backing plate that secures the bearing...black or zinc?
Mine was so cruddy it was hard to tell how it was originally plated.
Something tells me yellow zinc.

Yes, semi-gloss black for the arm and yellow zinc for the backing plate.

BTW, VHT gloss black Roll Bar and Chassis paint is a pretty good match for the black chassis parts. It isn't a full gloss.

[Speedo]

Thanks guys! No word from painter...but that is par for me.
I need to do a big trip to the re-finishers soon. Other than basic nuts and bolts, what should my list look like for needing yellow zinc. Here's what I have so far...
carb crossbar and drops and bellcrank
backing plate
door latches
hood/lid latches
brake dust shields
suspension/engine mount bolts
shift linkages
front sway bar arms

Feel free to correct or add to the list.