'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[BIGKAT_83]

Here's an idea for the under car hoses.





Bob

[Chris H.]

Love it Bob. Really cool alternative.

[BIGKAT_83]

This is a car from Canada that is posted on a picture site. Its very nice. It has power steering and brakes.
The pictures are about 10 yrs old.


Bob

[76-914]

Chris, I've done everything but chant. Maybe I'll go see Miss Rudolf to get this mojo off my ass. And once I find an engine or donor car the flood gates will open and there will be 10 good deals that I could have waited on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I just keep finding some thing else to do while I wait.
Bob, I had heard of that but if I went beneath the car I would run rubber hose. I would rather face a problem with repairing the hose than with welding that up in BFE (which is where it always happens (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ). + it's got to weight 45 lb's. I wanted to ask if you had any clearance problems between the radiator hose and tie rod. Or, I think that's the route you showed in a pic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chris H.]

914GT attached the pipes in a pretty unique way...his thread seems to have vanished though. I'll try to find the pics. Seemed very sturdy.

Kent, the sources I would scour if you want an SVX are:

Craigslist
SubaruSVX
SVX World

And e-bay and the local classifieds. Get a whole car if you can so you don't have to wonder if you have all the stuff you need, plus you can drive it to make sure it runs well. Most seem to be listed for a lot more than what someone would sell it for RIGHT NOW WITH CASH. If you find one let me know, I can tell you what parts to keep. Not every part is worth $ like a teener.

[76-914]

I haven't posted here for a few days and thought that I had better get busy. If I'm doing the suspension I may as well do the brakes. I had previously done the fronts and now is the time for the rears. Check out Old Crusty. Not the Cap't., the caliper.....



So after dis assembly I'm left with this mess.....







one dirty Ebrake return spring......



one clean spring, BTW, I cleaned this spring in < 2 min's (and many other brake parts) with a $5 3/4" copper fitting brush which I sawed the wooden handle off of and then chucked it into my bench top drill press.



the brake lines were held with rubber jaws in the vise while I cleaned them with some sand cloth.



5 min's later



some Shea stuff





a little dab of self etching primer after parts are cleaned



a little paint. the red is a VHT caliper paint whilst the silver is.......well it's silver



some shiny parts



and one dress rehearsal before final assembly



and in place



EDIT: If an Admin drops in would you pls remove the last two pics that I somehow added as an attachment and cannot remove. TIA, kent

[76-914]

Look what landed in my garage yesterday. Couldn't believe it happened so fast. Let me back up. 22 March I joined CoParts with the 30 day free trial membership. The Copart site lets people like you and me buy cars through an agent (ING in my case). There is a fee for this (300-400) and you must put up $400 min deposit. If you want to place a bid of more than $4000 then you would need to pony up some more. They have a "buy it now" feature which I used on 19 April. I know I paid a bit more rather than bidding on it but I only had 3 days left on my membership and would have had to pony up for an annual membership had I not purchased by the 22nd so I rationalized this as a wash. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif). Once they received the wire transfer I was allowed to have the car picked up. So 1030 hr's Monday I put in a request for transport bids which come quickly. I received quotes from $1250 (guaranteed delivery within 2 days) to $350. I called the 350 quote and held his feet in the fire until he said that it would be picked up this week. I gave them $100 over the phone and was told to give $250 cash to the driver upon arrival. OK. 45 min's later I receive a call from the driver wanting the lot number. He was there and headed my way. 26 hours and $350 after my first call to the transport company it was in my driveway. Kudos to Brad at Lightning Auto Carriers (Boca Raton, FL) for being a man of his word.
Shit, this is a nice car and I'm trying not to get attached to it. Especially since it's my favorite color; green! Everything works except the drivers side mirror. The check engine light is on so I started it and let it idle for about 40 min's to check for overheating and/or fluid leaks. No problems. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) So far. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) All the fluids are topped off and "clean". Even the oil and air filter are clean. Good sign that the PO took care of her. Great tires but they are 16". She idles smoothly and shifts well so the tranny will bring some $$. HF has the OBDII scanner for $49 this week so I think I will see why that "check engine" lite is on before the transplant. I won't know what to believe once it's transplanted and I'm up to my neck in error codes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) So w/o further adieu meet Greenie:









Hoping to add this wheel and steering column, too. And I believe those gages should graft in as well.



Nice wheels

with lots of thread



But this, more than any other reason, is why I wanted this car.



Topless



I know Chris will outrun me with his 3.3 but it's what I wanted. Unfortunately, I cannot begin stripping her until after 23 May because I have tons of family coming for my daughters graduation. She's getting her masters and the truth be told; that means the world to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[JStroud]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) awesome, glad you found what you wanted. That's the same motor, and car I just finished tearing apart for my conversion. A 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver will take most of the interior apart, the computer is under the passenger side carpet.
It will be nicer being able to take your time stripping the donor, I had to do mine all in one day, not so fun.
Great find, have fun tearing it apart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Jeff

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) awesome, glad you found what you wanted. That's the same motor, and car I just finished tearing apart for my conversion. A 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver will take most of the interior apart, the computer is under the passenger side carpet.
It will be nicer being able to take your time stripping the donor, I had to do mine all in one day, not so fun.
Great find, have fun tearing it apart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Jeff

Thx, JC. I read your thread and 1 day is rushing it. At least for my old, dumb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) Any other tips to share or pitfalls that you discovered?

[JStroud]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) awesome, glad you found what you wanted. That's the same motor, and car I just finished tearing apart for my conversion. A 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver will take most of the interior apart, the computer is under the passenger side carpet.
It will be nicer being able to take your time stripping the donor, I had to do mine all in one day, not so fun.
Great find, have fun tearing it apart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Jeff

Thx, JC. I read your thread and 1 day is rushing it. At least for my old, dumb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) Any other tips to share or pitfalls that you discovered?

It would be helpful to have another person to help strip the interior after the engine is out, going back and forth will wear you out, lots of bolts and screws, most will come out without too much trouble. The AC/heater box was a real pain, can't get it out without taking it apart, or breaking it in half with a hammer. I saved a few dash trim pieces just in case, things I wasn't saving I didn't worry about breaking to get it done faster.
Steering column comes out with three bolts, I'd take it out as soon as you can for better access. I think the main thing is take your time since you can, buy a book on the car, you won't find one that covers the 6cyl engine, but the rest is the same. It will help identify parts so you can label everything on the wire harness as you take it apart, easier now than later. Subaru doesn't sell a manual, they sell sections, starting at around $30 per section, so I just bought the chiltons manual for now.
They had already pulled the engine on mine, so can't help there.

Good luck

Jeff

[Chris H.]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

NIIICE! Great work Kent! That's a very strong motor and it's a lot smaller than the 3.3 and newer. I would not worry at all about the CEL as long as it runs OK. Could be something as simple as a wire with the coating worn off but it's probably a sensor or solenoid that you may or may not need. With the availability of used parts and the fact that many are universal across the Subie line there's not much you can't fix cheaply. Post the codes when you get them.

Take your time stripping it. It's exhausting (Jeff, have you recovered (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ?) . Going through the wiring harness now. Worst part yet for sure.

Family trumps car stuff any day. That's why mine is going pretty slow. Maybe I can catch up with you on the progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[76-914]

Chris, I'd have to agree with you on the wiring harness being a PITA. This is the starting point for me. After my daughter's graduation, family and entourage left 5/22. Miss them but it was time to begin the all out assault on the Suby. I was pussy footing around the first week or so, then out came the sawzall. I never would have been able remove the dash w/o one. Just like any predator I began at the rear and worked my way forward. I try to gather as much info on my own as possible before posting on the Suby boards. Those guy's will flame you in a second. Makes me appreciate each one of you guy's here. So, I began with exposing and removing the wiring from everything that is not conditional to the engine running. i.e I pull a plug and start the car. If it doesn't start I reconnect just that plug and move on to the next while identifying each wire as I go.
This is the harness that passes along the lower R side. Upper R side is Moon and Sun Roof wiring which I won't be using. This harness catches the rear running lights, rear washer & WW's, fuel pump/sender, misc evap vac/press sensors, and rear door motors/switches/locks.



Here it passes alongside the rear psg seat and on to the rear. The access ports for the fuel sender and fuel pump are shown here. The harness that feeds this wraps around the back seat and then enters on the rear L side???? Seems the long way around but.........



Some carnage shots. After all this I am to the point of pulling the engine. Did anyone notice the gage cluster is removed. Cars still starts and runs. Blew my mind. FWIW, the yellow harness' are the air bag/restraint system. Also, plastic squirt and roof drain lines are overhead L side along with most audio lines. Good idea! Separate power and water as well as RF interference.

[DBCooper]

You guys who re-purpose the wiring harness and all that have a LOT more smarts and courage than I do. I used to look down on guys who threw tools when they were frustrated, but if I had that in my garage I think I'd have to re-think all that, because I'm pretty sure tools would be thrown.

[Chris H.]

You're doing great Kent! I failed to mark many of the interior wires which is really biting me in the arse right now. Label every flipping wire man. It's worth it in the end. If you end up cutting them later that's OK. Still worth the investment. Otherwise you lose your "bearings" on what part of the wiring harness is what...if it's all labeled you can confidently trim it down bit by bit til you end up with only what you need.

[Jon H.]

I have an eg33 that will be going into my westfalia and there is a company called Small car that has wiring harness modification directions. I know this is for westfalias but it should work for what your doing too.

From the website-
"This kit enables a person with some wiring ability and lots of time to take a Subaru "bulkhead" wiring harness, remove a large number of connectors and wires, splice and add some wiring and end up with just what is necessary to run the engine in another vehicle. These wiring kits are unique to each Subaru year and model. Please note that this kit is a guide for harness modification and not a step by step manual. The expected time commitment to convert a harness is 20-40 hours for the first timer."

Jon

[BIGKAT_83]

Got a friend that is selling a 99k 2003 EZ30D with the wiring harness and computer for $1000. I told him that was a hell of a deal. I would not pull the harness for that price.
I think the best thing to do would just use the connectors. Make your own from scratch.

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[ruby914]

Cool!
This is the best part of the trip. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[76-914]

You're doing great Kent! I failed to mark many of the interior wires which is really biting me in the arse right now. Label every flipping wire man. It's worth it in the end. If you end up cutting them later that's OK. Still worth the investment. Otherwise you lose your "bearings" on what part of the wiring harness is what...if it's all labeled you can confidently trim it down bit by bit til you end up with only what you need.

You read my mind Chris. And this car had incandescent bulbs originally so shouldn't be any weird surprises. I'm using the Suby rear view which has an auto dimming feature for the headlights in the mirror syndrome. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I am using the suby sun visors which can swivel to the side. If the side mirrors weren't so big I'd use those. Going in for the bun warmers too. My wife's one request. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I have an eg33 that will be going into my westfalia and there is a company called Small car that has wiring harness modification directions. I know this is for westfalias but it should work for what your doing too.

From the website-
"This kit enables a person with some wiring ability and lots of time to take a Subaru "bulkhead" wiring harness, remove a large number of connectors and wires, splice and add some wiring and end up with just what is necessary to run the engine in another vehicle. These wiring kits are unique to each Subaru year and model. Please note that this kit is a guide for harness modification and not a step by step manual. The expected time commitment to convert a harness is 20-40 hours for the first timer."

Jon

Yea. I considered that route but I've read too many threads where people like me stumble and fall on their face when trying to program the ECU, which you didn't mention. Add $1500 for the ECU. The wiring should be tedious but doable.

Got a friend that is selling a 99k 2003 EZ30D with the wiring harness and computer for $1000. I told him that was a hell of a deal. I would not pull the harness for that price.
I think the best thing to do would just use the connectors. Make your own from scratch.

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

Thx for that info that you sent, Bob. BTW, what is the proper sequence for removing the bolys from that 58 bolt cover? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) If I lived close to you I would attempt that but I don't know shit from apple butter when it comes to any FI other than DJet. I'd just end up having someone hold my hand through the whole process. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I may end up going that route but I hope this works. I'd feel better knowing that some 40 yr old wire is being replaced with something newer, too.

[76-914]

You're doing great Kent! I failed to mark many of the interior wires which is really biting me in the arse right now. Label every flipping wire man. It's worth it in the end. If you end up cutting them later that's OK. Still worth the investment. Otherwise you lose your "bearings" on what part of the wiring harness is what...if it's all labeled you can confidently trim it down bit by bit til you end up with only what you need.

You read my mind Chris. And this car had incandescent bulbs originally so shouldn't be any weird surprises. I'm using the Suby rear view which has an auto dimming feature for the headlights in the mirror syndrome. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I am using the suby sun visors which can swivel to the side. If the side mirrors weren't so big I'd use those. Going in for the bun warmers too. My wife's one request. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I have an eg33 that will be going into my westfalia and there is a company called Small car that has wiring harness modification directions. I know this is for westfalias but it should work for what your doing too.

From the website-
"This kit enables a person with some wiring ability and lots of time to take a Subaru "bulkhead" wiring harness, remove a large number of connectors and wires, splice and add some wiring and end up with just what is necessary to run the engine in another vehicle. These wiring kits are unique to each Subaru year and model. Please note that this kit is a guide for harness modification and not a step by step manual. The expected time commitment to convert a harness is 20-40 hours for the first timer."

Jon

Yea. I considered that route but I've read too many threads where people like me stumble and fall on their face when trying to program the ECU, which you didn't mention. Add $1500 for the ECU. The wiring should be tedious but doable.

Got a friend that is selling a 99k 2003 EZ30D with the wiring harness and computer for $1000. I told him that was a hell of a deal. I would not pull the harness for that price.
I think the best thing to do would just use the connectors. Make your own from scratch.

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

Thx for that info that you sent, Bob. BTW, what is the proper sequence for removing the bolys from that 58 bolt cover? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) If I lived close to you I would attempt that but I don't know shit from apple butter when it comes to any FI other than DJet. I'd just end up having someone hold my hand through the whole process. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I may end up going that route but I hope this works. I'd feel better knowing that some 40 yr old wire is being replaced with something newer, too.

[Jon H.]

Program the ECU? I didn't know I had to do that either. I never came across that in my research. I sure don't need that extra expense.