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> 914RS4 Tube Chassis 996 Suspension Audi 2.7TT Stage 3, ADDED RECAROS
Curbandgutter
post May 30 2017, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ May 29 2017, 01:40 PM) *

flatbar under trans ...looks so ...you finish the sentence....
awesome jiob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


efficient? I don't know how would you end it? Seems like you have something in mind.
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Andyrew
post May 30 2017, 05:39 PM
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Seems like a nice place to mount the diffuser to me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Curbandgutter
post Jun 2 2017, 10:06 AM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 30 2017, 04:39 PM) *

Seems like a nice place to mount the diffuser to me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Close but not low enough. The diffuser will be about a 1/4" lower.
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Curbandgutter
post Jun 2 2017, 10:19 AM
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Well now that I'm moving on to the front struts, I know that I need to lower the ride height 3" in the front. So I started to think how I can determine how much I can raise the strut tower up into the hood while using the 996 coil overs and thereby having a lowered car while retaining the stock ride and adjust ability. I'm shooting for 4" of clearance to the pinch weld of the longs.

Well I went to a hobby store and bought some foam that they use in flower shops. Then I cut and sandwiched the foam in between the strut tower and the hood. Then I closed the hood and I got the mold that I needed. Kind of like pressing a panini.

Here is the mold after pressing it. Attached Image Attached Image

Here is the bottom view Attached Image

Then slice at the bolt locations and get the clearance dimensions from the hood. Looks like I will be able to shove the struts up into the trunk another 2 inches. Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

And that's how you slice it.

Now I need CSDilligaf to machine the shoulder of the lower strut to be able slide into lower strut mounting point another 1 inch. Then I'll have my 4" of clearance "unloaded".
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Curbandgutter
post Jun 29 2017, 05:45 PM
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Tomorrow I'm going to Chips place and he is going to put the lower coilover in his lathe and cut out enough meat to lower the base of the strut 1 1/4" into the aluminum 996 upright. I'll be finishing this portion of the build this weekend and will post pictures of it sitting at the correct ride height. It will have 4" of clearance on the front and 4 1/2 on the rear without lowering from its stock position.

This is where the strut installs into the aluminum upright Attached Image

This is where we are machining the strut to be able to lower it Attached Image

This is what the center console will look like. I'll be able to
run all of my wiring and piping through here. It will be covered
in carbon fiber and will be removable for access. This will add
extra rigidity to the frame as well. Attached Image

I'll post pics once it's sitting on it's own weight. Next step will be to remove engine and suspension and finish welding everything up, add the center console. Will be ordering floor after the 4th and then install that as well.
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tygaboy
post Jun 29 2017, 07:43 PM
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Nice! You're inspiring me to get back working on mine. I, too, have a custom center tunnel to fabricate... Great minds, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 3 2017, 12:48 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jun 29 2017, 06:43 PM) *

Nice! You're inspiring me to get back working on mine. I, too, have a custom center tunnel to fabricate... Great minds, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


Yes that center tunnel is going to be very effective in torsion and very useful for the shifter console support and to serve as a conduit for all hoses i.e. fuel, radiator, brake, AC and electric.

Glad to see yo back on your project. I know how it is when you hurt your shoulder. Last year in May I destroyed my right shoulder due to a fall on concrete while pulling some hoses tripping backwards. I did everything I could with that one shoulder to keep me form falling on the 996 front suspension that was on the ground. I tore all kinds of stuff on my shoulder. I had to use my left hand to move my right arm so that I could work on ACAD. I still worked on the car since all of the work was below the waist. I'm about 70% now one year later.
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 3 2017, 12:57 PM
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STANCE........CHECK

Front Attached Image
Rear Attached Image
Side Shot Before Attached Image
Side Shot After Attached Image

Shot of strut after Chip machined it.Attached Image
Clearance at front Attached Image




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

Attached image(s)
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 7 2017, 10:22 AM
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These two pics show a little bit better how much the car was lowered. All measurements are to the doughnuts

BEFORE 7 1/2"Front, 7" rear Attached Image

AFTER 4" Front, 4 1/2" rear Attached Image
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Andyrew
post Jul 7 2017, 11:40 AM
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Significant! Thats right where it needs to be. With the longer wheelbase it will look even lower!
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76-914
post Jul 7 2017, 12:12 PM
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Looks good with that flare on, Rudy. Will the flare work on the rear or will you need to add some steel to extend the rear flare out a bit? How much will a set of tires that can handle that speed cost you?
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csdilligaf
post Jul 7 2017, 12:44 PM
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That does look good Rudy. Now on to buttoning up some area's that need welding and fill in some sheet metal and you'll sitting pretty good.
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 7 2017, 01:05 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jul 7 2017, 10:40 AM) *

Significant! Thats right where it needs to be. With the longer wheelbase it will look even lower!


Thanks Andrew. Yes it is significant.
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 7 2017, 01:09 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jul 7 2017, 11:12 AM) *

Looks good with that flare on, Rudy. Will the flare work on the rear or will you need to add some steel to extend the rear flare out a bit? How much will a set of tires that can handle that speed cost you?


Kent, I will need to add two inches to the front fender and then weld the 916 fender to the expanded front fender. The rear will need to be widened 3 inches before adding the rear 916 flares.

Im picking up 19x9" front rim and 19X13' rear rim. The rolling diameter will be less than a stock 914. I've got a deal worked out on modular 3 piece forged wheels. Tires will be around $1,200.

Chip you have first dibs on my 997 hollow spokes.
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jd74914
post Jul 7 2017, 01:10 PM
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Very nice! It looks awesome Rudy!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 7 2017, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(csdilligaf @ Jul 7 2017, 11:44 AM) *

That does look good Rudy. Now on to buttoning up some area's that need welding and fill in some sheet metal and you'll sitting pretty good.


Yep i just added the removable strut across the transaxle and will now take everything apart, put on rotisserie, replace floor, add center tunnel and finish welding the chassis as well as plugging up all of the "access" holes. Then I will do the final TWIST test. I'll be sandblasting all of the tube steel and epoxy them as well. Then install radiator, fuel tank, pedal assembly and electrical. I've got alot of work still ahead, but the major labor portion is almost out of the way.
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ValcoOscar
post Jul 7 2017, 02:16 PM
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Rudy-

I'm in awe...

Just amazing progress thus far.
It already looks scary fast.

Keep going my friend....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Oscar

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Andyrew
post Jul 7 2017, 02:26 PM
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QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Jul 7 2017, 12:09 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jul 7 2017, 11:12 AM) *

Looks good with that flare on, Rudy. Will the flare work on the rear or will you need to add some steel to extend the rear flare out a bit? How much will a set of tires that can handle that speed cost you?


Kent, I will need to add two inches to the front fender and then weld the 916 fender to the expanded front fender. The rear will need to be widened 3 inches before adding the rear 916 flares.

Im picking up 19x9" front rim and 19X13' rear rim. The rolling diameter will be less than a stock 914. I've got a deal worked out on modular 3 piece forged wheels. Tires will be around $1,200.

Chip you have first dibs on my 997 hollow spokes.


13's??? Damn. Making me look bad!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I wish I had more rear rubber than my 10's, 13" would be very nice. run some 335's. This chassis really needs the extra mechanical grip as it doesnt have the weight to put the necessary force on the tires.
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Curbandgutter
post Jul 7 2017, 03:39 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jul 7 2017, 01:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Jul 7 2017, 12:09 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jul 7 2017, 11:12 AM) *

Looks good with that flare on, Rudy. Will the flare work on the rear or will you need to add some steel to extend the rear flare out a bit? How much will a set of tires that can handle that speed cost you?


Kent, I will need to add two inches to the front fender and then weld the 916 fender to the expanded front fender. The rear will need to be widened 3 inches before adding the rear 916 flares.

Im picking up 19x9" front rim and 19X13' rear rim. The rolling diameter will be less than a stock 914. I've got a deal worked out on modular 3 piece forged wheels. Tires will be around $1,200.

Chip you have first dibs on my 997 hollow spokes.


13's??? Damn. Making me look bad!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I wish I had more rear rubber than my 10's, 13" would be very nice. run some 335's. This chassis really needs the extra mechanical grip as it doesnt have the weight to put the necessary force on the tires.


Andrew you hit the nail on the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Mechanical grip is what I'm after cause pure friction is just a function of weight. And I this car won't have that much weight to transfer.
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PlaysWithCars
post Dec 30 2017, 03:51 PM
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Ok, I just finished binge reading this build story and am in awe of the vision, skill, and perseverance to make this happen. But, come on! You can't leave it hanging... must have an update on progress.
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