123 Distributor Group Buy Thread, Replacement for NLA stock Dizzy's-Order 15 % Discount Options

[McMark]

The 123 allows you to orient the wiring and curve plug access to a direction you prefer. Can't do that with a stock dizzy as the vacuum can takes up a lot of space.
As long as the rotor points to the #1 position, you can rotate the body of the 123 to position the cap spark plug connector to the #1 wire in the stock position.

This can make the wire installation a bit more tidy.

Hmmm... I agree you can position the body in 90 degree increments however you choose, but the rotor position to fire on a given cylinder doesn't change. The only way to move this is to index the drive gear in the case....

Or maybe I am thinking wrong??

No, you're right, within the bounds of the wire connections on the cap must line up with the rotor. But you're exactly right, in order to make small adjustments in orientation, you must move the drive gear.

[123ignitionusa]

So when the green led just lights up, which is four times in a revolution or turn of the distributor body, you actually have four positions where the firing of the number one cylinder will take place. When you attach the wires to the cap they will also need to move their location to correspond with the change of the distributor body. The reason is the cap has a locating tab on it so it goes onto the body only one way.

Now if you change the gear orientation thats ok but the above applies to that as well. Which should equate to (8) different locations for the distributor body to be adjusted too. However #1 cylinder and the rotor location does not change in each situation unless the drive dog is rotated 180 degrees.

Clear as mud? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[McMark]

Now if you change the gear orientation thats ok but the above applies to that as well. Which should equate to (8) different locations for the distributor body to be adjusted too. However #1 cylinder and the rotor location does not change in each situation unless the drive dog is rotated 180 degrees.

Clear as mud? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I think by 'drive dog' you're talking about the toothed portion installed on the end of the distributor with a pin and spring. Nobody should be fiddling with that piece.

The drive gear (separate from the distributor) has 12 different positions. Any of those 12 positions will function the same. In any of those 12 positions there are four different orientations for the spark plug wires (assuming there are no physical limitations from clips of vac-cans). So there are a total of 48 different positions where your #1 spark plug wire could be. Which means that with some planning and/or math you can adjust your #1 position anywhere in the 360° rotation in increments/steps of 7.5 degrees.

[DRPHIL914]

how long before mine ships?

[SKL1]

Got mine today! Will be a while before I can fiddle with it but this thread should be helpful when I do get around to it...

[pvollma]

So when the green led just lights up, which is four times in a revolution or turn of the distributor body, you actually have four positions where the firing of the number one cylinder will take place. When you attach the wires to the cap they will also need to move their location to correspond with the change of the distributor body. The reason is the cap has a locating tab on it so it goes onto the body only one way.

Now if you change the gear orientation thats ok but the above applies to that as well. Which should equate to (8) different locations for the distributor body to be adjusted too. However #1 cylinder and the rotor location does not change in each situation unless the drive dog is rotated 180 degrees.

Clear as mud? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just received mine today -- thanks for the group buy discount! One quick question: I've considered waiting until the car is put up for the winter before having my shop swap in this distributor. Does that eat into my warranty, or does it start when the dizzy is installed (with proof, of course)? I haven't opened the packaging yet, so I don't know if this is explained in any of the documentation that comes with the unit.

[pete000]

Haven't installed mine in the car yet, but playing with the Bluetooth programmable software, super easy to use. Infinitely adjustable !. This is going to be fun.

[rfinegan]

I wish I got in on the buy before I realized i need one of these...any chance for another group buy for black Friday special?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[123ignitionusa]

Hi Guys
Thanks for the purchases. I should be able to get the balance of the orders out this week of Nov 20th.
Someone asked about the warranty. These have a 1yr warranty from the date of purchase. As much as I would like to say from the date of installation there is just no way of monitoring that and the mfg only recognizes the date of sale proved by the invoice on record.
Thanks again Ed

[123ignitionusa]

I wish I got in on the buy before I realized i need one of these...any chance for another group buy for black Friday special?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

For those who missed out use 914world5 for a 5% discount. If your group reaches 5 units then 10%. Offer expires Dec 3rd.
Hope this helpEd

[VaccaRabite]

I wish I got in on the buy before I realized i need one of these...any chance for another group buy for black Friday special?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

For those who missed out use 914world5 for a 5% discount. If your group reaches 5 units then 10%. Offer expires Dec 3rd.
Hope this helpEd

AWesome!

Zach

[JMT]

Bought mine a few weeks before the group buy came out, oh well. This is how mine is oriented. To install I made sure cylinder #1 was at TDC and confirmed the dizzy drive was at 12 degrees and then slide it in. This is where #1 ended up. It's oriented 180 degrees opposite from the aftermarket Bosch unit that was in there. This is fine for my application. It's going in a 912 so the optical light faces the rear which works out for me. In a 914 you may want it to face a different location.
You can move the body of the dizzy in 90 degree increments so the rotor will line up with a spark plug hole.

[123ignitionusa]

I just wanted to let everyone know that their orders will be shipped out on Monday.
The shipment got held in customs for a longer than usual time. (Murphy's Law) Then the holiday weekend became a factor. But the long and short is that Fedex will have them here by 10:30 on Monday. I will have them all shipped out by end of day.
Thanks for your patience
Ed

[Rand]

Thanks Ed. Looking forward.

[98101]

I’ve got a carbureted big 4 with a 009 now. I’d like to make it more streetable and I love the idea of being able to fine tune everything over Bluetooth. I’m not sure the carbs are dialed in right but I’ve been told this won’t really be possible without decent ignition timing.

(More background on my situation here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=320218)

I’m something of a newbie but as I currently understand it, the Bosch 009 isn’t a good choice for street use and maybe not even that great for a track car. I love the idea of being able to configure the 123, and the 12V switch to choose between two modes. I can see using one mode for cold start, try to get out of the parking lot without backfiring on a cold morning, and another mode for break like the wind! Also I think I might have fun and learn a lot about ignition timing with this distributor.

Four questions I’m still confused about after reading the thread thus far:
1) Will I need to relocate my oil pressure sender to make room for this, as has sometimes been reported with the Mallory?
2) Will I need to bend any engine cooling tin to get this in?
3) As I understand it, the Bluetooth version arrives with an empty brain. Would anyone else with a similar engine as mine (2270, Dellorto 45s, Web hot street cam, cool Pacific NW climate a little above sea level) be willing to share your configuration tables with me?
4) Did trying to use this distributor cause nditz1’s engine damage? Would I damage expensive parts by misconfiguring the distributor?

—Michael in Seattle

[nditiz1]

I’ve got a carbureted big 4 with a 009 now. I’d like to make it more streetable and I love the idea of being able to fine tune everything over Bluetooth. I’m not sure the carbs are dialed in right but I’ve been told this won’t really be possible without decent ignition timing.

(More background on my situation here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=320218)

I’m something of a newbie but as I currently understand it, the Bosch 009 isn’t a good choice for street use and maybe not even that great for a track car. I love the idea of being able to configure the 123, and the 12V switch to choose between two modes. I can see using one mode for cold start, try to get out of the parking lot without backfiring on a cold morning, and another mode for break like the wind! Also I think I might have fun and learn a lot about ignition timing with this distributor.

Four questions I’m still confused about after reading the thread thus far:
1) Will I need to relocate my oil pressure sender to make room for this, as has sometimes been reported with the Mallory?
2) Will I need to bend any engine cooling tin to get this in?
3) As I understand it, the Bluetooth version arrives with an empty brain. Would anyone else with a similar engine as mine (2270, Dellorto 45s, Web hot street cam, cool Pacific NW climate a little above sea level) be willing to share your configuration tables with me?
4) Did trying to use this distributor cause nditz1’s engine damage? Would I damage expensive parts by misconfiguring the distributor?

—Michael in Seattle

Michael I can answer 1, 2, and 4.

1. You will not need to relocate your oil press sender as this is the same size as the stock at least it seemed way smaller than the mallory i took out. I didn't micro it though.

2. See above, actually the mallory I took out did not need any bent tin, but was a very tight fit, much more room with this dist.

4. This dist did not cause my problem. While it was coincidence I think it was the 914 gods letting me know i need to do a partial rebuild with out leaving me stranded. I get my engine yoke tomorrow and will pull the heads. The outside inspection shows the previous builder swapped left and right head. This means the valve dropped on cyl 2 which was actually cyl 3 on the opposite side. Must have had a rough life.

[Millerwelds]

Fired up. Needed a full tune up so changed oil, plugs and wires then fired it up with the old ignition in place to make sure I was starting with a good base point. Then jacked up one wheel and rotated till rotor was pointed at #1 slot on old dizzy. Pulled old dizzy, put oil on new dizzy shaft to slide spacer over o ring. Made sure offset gear at bottom of new dizzy was in approximate right position and dropped it into place. Slipped right in. Gear clicked in place and dropped all the way down without issue. Rotor was pointed in about the same position (not 180 degrees off as some have experienced). Switched plug wires onto new cap. Plugged in red lead to the coil after adding correct fitting to the wire. Plugged the FI wires into the FI harness. These come preset with the correct ends. Mine fit snug. I do not foresee any loose connection issues there. Then turned on ignition and rotated till green light came on, backed it off a little till light went off. Then minute adjustment till light just comes on. Turned ignition off, plugged in black wire to coil. Put cap/wires in place and locked down cap. Tried to start. Close, but no cigar. Took a break. Went back out, popped the cap, unhooked black wire, redid the green light adjustment, hooked all back up. Started right up. Idled good. Shut it down as it is raining dogs so will wait till I can warm it up some before setting timing with timing light. Does not like to sit at 3500 RPM when cold... this is a 74 Djet 2.0. I set it to setting 2 and plugged the vacuum ports on the throttle body. Left the vacuum port open on the dizzy. Plan on running that way for awhile then see if I need to mess with the vacuum option. My understanding is it was for smog so thinking I can run without it. No adjustment to tins or anything else needed. Plug and play. Without the vacuum canister it is a smaller package overall. Dizzy body size is about the same size as stock. Hope this helps those with questions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914_teener]

Fired up. Needed a full tune up so changed oil, plugs and wires then fired it up with the old ignition in place to make sure I was starting with a good base point. Then jacked up one wheel and rotated till rotor was pointed at #1 slot on old dizzy. Pulled old dizzy, put oil on new dizzy shaft to slide spacer over o ring. Made sure offset gear at bottom of new dizzy was in approximate right position and dropped it into place. Slipped right in. Gear clicked in place and dropped all the way down without issue. Rotor was pointed in about the same position (not 180 degrees off as some have experienced). Switched plug wires onto new cap. Plugged in red lead to the coil after adding correct fitting to the wire. Plugged the FI wires into the FI harness. These come preset with the correct ends. Mine fit snug. I do not foresee any loose connection issues there. Then turned on ignition and rotated till green light came on, backed it off a little till light went off. Then minute adjustment till light just comes on. Turned ignition off, plugged in black wire to coil. Put cap/wires in place and locked down cap. Tried to start. Close, but no cigar. Took a break. Went back out, popped the cap, unhooked black wire, redid the green light adjustment, hooked all back up. Started right up. Idled good. Shut it down as it is raining dogs so will wait till I can warm it up some before setting timing with timing light. Does not like to sit at 3500 RPM when cold... this is a 74 Djet 2.0. I set it to setting 2 and plugged the vacuum ports on the throttle body. Left the vacuum port open on the dizzy. Plan on running that way for awhile then see if I need to mess with the vacuum option. My understanding is it was for smog so thinking I can run without it. No adjustment to tins or anything else needed. Plug and play. Without the vacuum canister it is a smaller package overall. Dizzy body size is about the same size as stock. Hope this helps those with questions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Hunh.

I would recommend plugging both ports with caps if you aren't going to use the advance or retard ports.

Why didn't you choose setting B? I have a 1.7 and I used setting 2 according to the Bosch part No. chart.

[JMT]

Just to confirm, you don't need to relocate oil line, you can see the clearance in one of my pics, However, I did have to file away a little of the fan shroud near the base of the dizzy. I couldn't get it to sit flush on the case. The washer/spacer on the 123 is a little bigger than a stock dizzy shaft.

[McMark]

Vacuum ports on a distributor should never be capped. On any car. Ever.

Either left open, or connected via a hose to the intake/plenum/wherever.

Never capped.

No really. Never. Spread the word.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)