123 Distributor Group Buy Thread, Replacement for NLA stock Dizzy's-Order 15 % Discount Options

[Ferg]

Cool, thanks everyone.

[thomas@vintagecarleds.com]

Yup, it's solid. I'm happy, and it's still rocking. Mine is the D-Jet one, and I'm using curve "B."

What are you setting your timing to at idle with curve B?

I am about to pickup on of these here soon!

[DRPHIL914]

Yup, it's solid. I'm happy, and it's still rocking. Mine is the D-Jet one, and I'm using curve "B."

Mine has about 500 miles and not a problem. I have the Bluetooth unit and once I learned how it works the tune-ability is awesome. I tried a couple different curves including vacuum advance but I ended up with a straight line 0-28* at 3k rpm without vacuum advance. You really need a dyno to do anything more custom (or someone riding in the passenger seat to adjust the app while driving). I locked the distributor down at TDC so that my actual timing is equal to the distributor advance reading on the app.
You have to launch the app first, then turn the key on or it won’t connect (this is after the initial pairing).

1,300 miles over the past 15 months since installing it. very happy. D-jet, running curve B I think with vac advance. in fact , drove it to work today, had not been driving it a lot partly due to recent failure and replacement of the master cylinder, also trying to keep it clean , don't want too much work to get it ready for the next car show here in 2 weeks.
you will like not having to mess with points and the f.i. trigger points plate!

[BeatNavy]

Yup, it's solid. I'm happy, and it's still rocking. Mine is the D-Jet one, and I'm using curve "B."

Mine has about 500 miles and not a problem. I have the Bluetooth unit and once I learned how it works the tune-ability is awesome. I tried a couple different curves including vacuum advance but I ended up with a straight line 0-28* at 3k rpm without vacuum advance. You really need a dyno to do anything more custom (or someone riding in the passenger seat to adjust the app while driving). I locked the distributor down at TDC so that my actual timing is equal to the distributor advance reading on the app.
You have to launch the app first, then turn the key on or it won’t connect (this is after the initial pairing).

1,300 miles over the past 15 months since installing it. very happy. D-jet, running curve B I think with vac advance. in fact , drove it to work today, had not been driving it a lot partly due to recent failure and replacement of the master cylinder, also trying to keep it clean , don't want too much work to get it ready for the next car show here in 2 weeks.
you will like not having to mess with points and the f.i. trigger points plate!

Pretty sure curve B is retard only, not advance. I've been running around 26 degrees on curve B on my new 2056 rebuild. Anything significantly higher than that and I was getting pre-ignition, presumably due to higher compression. Before the rebuild I was running it on a 2056 at 27 degrees without any issue, except it did want to idle slightly higher than factory.

It's solid.

[DRPHIL914]

Yup, it's solid. I'm happy, and it's still rocking. Mine is the D-Jet one, and I'm using curve "B."

Mine has about 500 miles and not a problem. I have the Bluetooth unit and once I learned how it works the tune-ability is awesome. I tried a couple different curves including vacuum advance but I ended up with a straight line 0-28* at 3k rpm without vacuum advance. You really need a dyno to do anything more custom (or someone riding in the passenger seat to adjust the app while driving). I locked the distributor down at TDC so that my actual timing is equal to the distributor advance reading on the app.
You have to launch the app first, then turn the key on or it won’t connect (this is after the initial pairing).

1,300 miles over the past 15 months since installing it. very happy. D-jet, running curve B I think with vac advance. in fact , drove it to work today, had not been driving it a lot partly due to recent failure and replacement of the master cylinder, also trying to keep it clean , don't want too much work to get it ready for the next car show here in 2 weeks.
you will like not having to mess with points and the f.i. trigger points plate!

Pretty sure curve B is retard only, not advance. I've been running around 26 degrees on curve B on my new 2056 rebuild. Anything significantly higher than that and I was getting pre-ignition, presumably due to higher compression. Before the rebuild I was running it on a 2056 at 27 degrees without any issue, except it did want to idle slightly higher than factory.

It's solid.

lol I will have to recheck, maybe not curve B? its been a while since I put it in, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) well anyway what ever it is, its running good and has proper idle and AF is right where it should be. I do remember that half the settings are for no vac hook up and the other half are intended to be used with the vac hooked up, and that's the side I am on,

[9144me2enjoy]

I have a Raby 2270 with carbs, having problem getting the engine to run after installing 123Ignition with Bluetooth. After reading through the above threads I’ve the following questions:

1) Before I pulled the old 901 Dizzy/Distributor I feel comfortable I found TDC, when I reinserted the new 123 Dizzy the Rotor was not pointing in the same direction as the 901 towards the 901s #1 plug wire position! It sounds like that isn’t totally important as long as after the 123 is installed I place the plug wires in the correct position with the direction of the rotor being #1 then as follows clockwise 4-3-2 or counterclockwise 2-3-4 with the plug wires.

2) When the Bluetooth 123 version arrives it has an empty brain? Therefore one needs to program the unit to get it started/running? McMArk states earlier that 0-1000 =12 degrees and 3500-10000 = 28 degrees and vacuum advance curve is Zero 0. Which I assume I can go to the 123app and once I’ve located the green light on the Dizzy I can go into the curve screen and plug those numbers in?

Thanks for any suggestions.

[914_teener]

I have a 1.8 Raby 2270 with carbs, having problem getting the engine to run after installing 123Ignition with Bluetooth. After reading through the above threads I’ve the following questions:

1) Before I pulled the old 901 Dizzy/Distributor I feel comfortable I found TDC, when I reinserted the new 123 Dizzy the Rotor was not pointing in the same direction as the 901 towards the 901s #1 plug wire position! It sounds like that isn’t totally important as long as after the 123 is installed I place the plug wires in the correct position with the direction of the rotor being #1 then as follows clockwise 4-3-2 or counterclockwise 2-3-4 with the plug wires.

2) When the Bluetooth 123 version arrives it has an empty brain? Therefore one needs to program the unit to get it started/running? McMArk states earlier that 0-1000 =12 degrees and 3500-10000 = 28 degrees and vacuum advance curve is Zero 0. Which I assume I can go to the 123app and once I’ve located the green light on the Dizzy I can go into the curve screen and plug those numbers in?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Definately the retard curve. A 1.8 Raby 2270 ... a 901 distributor......

[9144me2enjoy]

A little history on the 901 Dizzy. My understanding when the previous owner received the Raby engine it came with a Mallory ignition about 8-10 years ago. The previous owner had nothing but problems with the Mallory for some reason which is probably why it was discontinued. He then replaced the Mallory with a 901 Dizzzy which ran ok but was definitely not reaching the potential of this engine. The car set for several years until recently which I’ve decided to upgrade to the 123 to get performance up to specs.

[euro911]

Do you have a timing light to determine where your timing is currently set?

Since it ran somewhat ok with the 901, I'd reinstall it and note the readings, then reinstall the 123 and set to the same readings you got with the 901 ... then you could adjust + or - as needed from there.

If you're getting pre-detonation (pinging) under load, retard it 'X' degrees.

At least with the bluetooth app, you can adjust it under real road conditions

[9144me2enjoy]

Mark, I will try that when I get back home this afternoon. Thanks and I would like to thank Rob (BeatNavy) for helping me get this far.

[BeatNavy]

The collective wisdom will help you get there. Between Rob (other Rob), Mark, etc. and others it will happen. As Mark mentions, important thing is to get it running, even if roughly, and tweak from there. I don't know the best curve, timing, or advance for carbs, but the nice thing is you can adjust it from your phone, without pulling the dizzy (well, maybe not the timing -- that still needs to be done somewhat the old fashioned way). At that point you can experiment. The D-Jet model (w/o Bluetooth) we have to pull the dizzy to change curve.

Then you'll be screaming (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[9144me2enjoy]

The forum is priceless, the Force is Active (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[9144me2enjoy]

FYI I followed your directions and After programming my advance curve, fired right up! I need to fine tune it later after driving a few times and reading up more on fine tuning the curve. I took it for a short drive, very responsive and not pinging etc. Thanks again for all your help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[9144me2enjoy]

Pics

[BeatNavy]

Congrats, Roy! Now drive that Raby 2270 for all it's worth!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[9144me2enjoy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[michael7810]

FYI I followed your directions and After programming my advance curve, fired right up! I need to fine tune it later after driving a few times and reading up more on fine tuning the curve. I took it for a short drive, very responsive and not pinging etc. Thanks again for all your help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Curious what you are running for total advance. 29 degrees of distributor advance seems like a lot unless your timing before the advance starts is close to zero. And if that’s the case your idle timing is only a couple degrees BTDC whereas my 1911cc doesn’t idle well at less than 8 degrees BTDC.

[9144me2enjoy]

Raby is a stickler not to mess with or change his factory timing settings: From my Raby 2270 build book he shows the engine was set at Initial Advance at 9 degrees and at 3000 rpm at 28 degrees. So I went into the Centrifugal Curve settings and set them at those settings. So far so good.

[9144me2enjoy]

Pics

[BeatNavy]

When you set the curve using the 123 app are you setting total advance, or advance from initial? If the latter, then I would agree that 29 is too much. If the former, probably good. Raby shoots for total advance in his engines between 27 to 31, IIRC.