Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6 Options

[jerhofer]

Grunt work was done last week. I went through each of the bags of parts that were tagged as removed from the car when the engine was taken out. I cleaned up each of the parts and ordered new parts if necessary.
I also took the transmission out of the bag is has been in for the past thirteen years since it was rebuilt.
Another item that came with the car is a brand new JWest side shift linkage kit. I don't know if I will install this. Anyone have any experience with this product?

I have a Jwest kit on my 914-6 conversion and I just purchased a second, nos kit from TC. It takes shifting to a whole 'nother level. No slop and with a Rennshifter, feels more like a bolt action rifle. I can't imagine a better shift system.

Such a ringing endorsement makes me feel like I don’t have a choice!!

[jerhofer]

I did accomplish one other major goal. I mounted my 1974 North Carolina license plate!! If your car is at least thirty-five years old, you are allowed to run a vintage plate as long as you have your regular plate in the car to show an officer.

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[jerhofer]

I have made some progress that past few days. It had been pointed out to me that I had used the wrong torque figure for the flywheel bolts. The 66ft lb figure was for a nine bolt flywheel while mine was a six bolt with torque figures of 110lb ft. I got out my trusty torque wrench, set it at 110 and had a problem. My socket was very old and worn and slipped out of the bolt head and jamming my hand. As I was afraid I had compromised the bolts, I ordered a new set and a new socket. Now I finally could set the torque where it should be.

My 12.9 bolts for the pressure plate arrived as well so the clutch could be installed. After installing the throw out bearing and clutch fork, I was ready to mate the transmission with the motor. I used the lift to lift the transmission into place. The starter was also installed as well as the fan belt.


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Today I filled the transmission with gear lube, always a messy job. The engine and tranny are ready to go back into the car!!!


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[jerhofer]

Based on the positive comment on the Jwest shift linkage, I decided to use it. I removed the shifter, undid the pinch bolt and removed the front shift rod through the firewall. The shift rod bushing at the firewall must also be removed.

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The splined end of the shift rod must be removed and then welded onto a new rod supplied in the kit. Since I don't weld, I took everything over to my son's house. He proceeded to ground off the existing welds and then weld the end to the new rod at the prescribed length. After cleaning up the welds at home, I painted the welded area to prevent corrosion.


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[jerhofer]

The previous owner, Ed, had done a lot of research into upgrading the axles. He found six bolt flanges using M10 1.5 bolts that could be used with turbo axles. The car came with two brand new turbo axles still in the boxes.


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The problem is that 911 axles are 3/4" shorter than 914 axles. To solve that issue, Ed had ordered a set of Sway-Away axles that are the proper length. To mount them, I would need to remove the CV joints from the turbo axles and install them on the Sway-Away axles. I removed the snap ring but could not get the CV to slide off the end of the axle. Since I was going to my son's house anyway, I took the axles along. My son has a small press and it did the trick. Since my son was busy finishing up his 911 Tesla, I took the press with me and will remove the other CV's and transfer them. It is good to have a son with lots of goodies and expertise!!!

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[jerhofer]

After the house cleaning party this morning, I worked on installing the Jwest Side Shift Linkage. Installing the shifter bearing on the firewall was the task at hand. The hole that the shifter rod goes through is not centered in the round area in the firewall. Consequently, the bearing is offset to the driver's side and up. To help place the bearing support correctly, I slid the shift rod through the bearing. Once I had it correctly placed, I marked the holes for drilling.

The instructions called for using a magnet to place the bolts into the holes from the tunnel. To make sure they stayed in the holes, I placed some strip caulk below the head and pushed hard against the bolts once they were through the holes. This not only served to seal these bolts but they stayed well enough that I could completely tighten the nuts.

I then slid the shift rod through the bearing and slid it into the pinch clamp on the shifter. With the shifter then bolted back into place, I could install the boot over the shift rod at the firewall. It is secured with the supplied zip tie.


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[jerhofer]

Grunt work was done last week. I went through each of the bags of parts that were tagged as removed from the car when the engine was taken out. I cleaned up each of the parts and ordered new parts if necessary.
I also took the transmission out of the bag is has been in for the past thirteen years since it was rebuilt.
Another item that came with the car is a brand new JWest side shift linkage kit. I don't know if I will install this. Anyone have any experience with this product?

I have a Jwest kit on my 914-6 conversion and I just purchased a second, nos kit from TC. It takes shifting to a whole 'nother level. No slop and with a Rennshifter, feels more like a bolt action rifle. I can't imagine a better shift system.

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.

[mepstein]

Grunt work was done last week. I went through each of the bags of parts that were tagged as removed from the car when the engine was taken out. I cleaned up each of the parts and ordered new parts if necessary.
I also took the transmission out of the bag is has been in for the past thirteen years since it was rebuilt.
Another item that came with the car is a brand new JWest side shift linkage kit. I don't know if I will install this. Anyone have any experience with this product?

I have a Jwest kit on my 914-6 conversion and I just purchased a second, nos kit from TC. It takes shifting to a whole 'nother level. No slop and with a Rennshifter, feels more like a bolt action rifle. I can't imagine a better shift system.

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.

Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.

[jerhofer]

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.
[/quote]
Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.
[/quote]


Found it! Thanks.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72363

[jerhofer]

Do you happen to have any photos of the installation at the transmission? Also, would it be easier to install the parts at the transmission once the engine and tranny are back in the car?

Thanks.
[/quote]
Mcmark has installation pictures on Sir Andy’s build thread. It is much easier to install the shifter bracket on the side shift console when the trans it out of the car and upside down on the ground.
[/quote]

After looking at those photos, I can see why it would be easier to have the transmission out of the car and upside down. However, since I just mated it to the motor and filled it with fluid, I will probably finish up the job once everything is in the car. I could raise the engine/transmission on the hydraulic table but I would have to lay on the floor to do the drilling. I think I would rather work on it when the engine is back in the car and the car is on my lift.

[jerhofer]

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

[mepstein]

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

I would do the muffler after. It will give you more room around the trans mounts. When you do install it, leave it a little loose until it’s on the ground and you can get it parallel to the car and floor.

[jerhofer]

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

I would do the muffler after. It will give you more room around the trans mounts. When you do install it, leave it a little loose until it’s on the ground and you can get it parallel to the car and floor.

Thanks.

[Lucky9146]

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

I would do the muffler after. It will give you more room around the trans mounts. When you do install it, leave it a little loose until it’s on the ground and you can get it parallel to the car and floor.

Really enjoying your thread, re-read most all of it this morning and it is interesting to see how we've solved some of the same problems the same and differently, and there is a lot of really good useful information you have shared. I especially like your air fuel monitor and Many other things you have done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I may revisit a few of them on my car.

In addition to removing the muffler I might also suggest the throttle bodies as well, if it is not a total PITA to remove them, as it will give you more space up top too. I removed my Webers to give me the added room as some one here suggested at the time.
Keep up the good work! Very nice car! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Check out my thread page 12 for my engine install. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=261197
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[jerhofer]

Having never installed an engine in a 914, is it best to install it with the muffler attached?

I would do the muffler after. It will give you more room around the trans mounts. When you do install it, leave it a little loose until it’s on the ground and you can get it parallel to the car and floor.

Really enjoying your thread, re-read most all of it this morning and it is interesting to see how we've solved some of the same problems the same and differently, and there is a lot of really good useful information you have shared. I especially like your air fuel monitor and Many other things you have done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I may revisit a few of them on my car.

In addition to removing the muffler I might also suggest the throttle bodies as well, if it is not a total PITA to remove them, as it will give you more space up top too. I removed my Webers to give me the added room as some one here suggested at the time.
Keep up the good work! Very nice car! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Check out my thread page 12 for my engine install. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=261197
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)

Thanks for the link to installing the engine. That really helps. In the past I have always put the motor into a car that I had removed it from. Much easier once you have seen how everything fits.

I will look into removing the throttle bodies but I would prefer to keep them in place, if possible.

[jerhofer]

Do you bolt the transmission mounts in at the top prior to installing the engine and tranny and then use the big bolt to fasten the transmission in place?

[jerhofer]

Another messy day of working with the CV's. There is a cap on the end of the CV joins that has to be removed. With this cap out of the way, the snap rings are exposed. After removing the snap rings, I detached the boot from the CV. At this point I removed all of the balls and the outer ring. Now I could place the axle assembly on the press to remove the rest of the CV.

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Now that I had everything apart, I cleaned the CV parts and re-installed the balls. I also cleaned up the metal boot mounts and installed seals on them.

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[jerhofer]

The Sway-Away axles are marked as left and right. According to their instructions, it doesn't matter which end goes to the transmission as long as the axles are used on the correct side of the car. As you can see, they have much longer splines and are designed to slide back and forth as needed. They are also quite a bit longer than the 911 axles.

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I am waiting for the CV bolts to arrive. Once they are here, I will pack the CV joints and mount everything to each axle. Then I can bolt the CV to the outer flange at the hub. Once that is done, I will be ready to put the engine back into the car.

[Lucky9146]

Do you bolt the transmission mounts in at the top prior to installing the engine and tranny and then use the big bolt to fasten the transmission in place?

Correct. If you look at my thread post 233 you will see the mounts installed in the first and last picture there. I am hesitant to post pictures of my install here on your thread so as not to confuse those watching your thread that it looks like you are installing your engine.

Feel free to reach out PM anytime and we can go from there or give me a shout out here if you want any pics posted.

I share with you that I had never installed an engine in a 914 until I did mine and like yours, the engine was not installed, so I did not get to remove it, also just like you. Thanks again for all you have posted on your thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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[jerhofer]

Yesterday morning, I spent some time on the throttle body linkage after reading Lucky9146's thread. Later in the day, I discovered that I had reversed the solid rod from the throttle to the transmission and had it upside down.

In anticipation of installing the engine, I installed the transmission mounts.


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I also used my rethreader kit to clean out the threads on the output flanges on the transmission.


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I had removed the passenger seat so that I could get to the firewall when I moved the fuel regulator. I wasn't happy with how the seats slid back and forth so I spent some time making sure the tracks were properly aligned. I also had not been able to get the driver's seat to go all the way back. Today I figured out why.

There was a rectangular plate, about the thickness of a washer, with two bolt holes that fit into the track of the seat. I have seen these before on other Porsche's so I didn't think much about it. However, there were only two that came with the car and they were the only things different between the two seats. I removed them and, voila, the seat went all the way back. Amazing how such a small victory can be so satisfying!!

The only things keeping me from putting the engine back into the car are the CV bolts I have on order. My son was visiting yesterday (with his Tesla 911) and he mentioned that the local drive shaft shop may have those bolts. The made the axles and CV joints for his car. I will check that out tomorrow.

Two of my neighbors drove Matt's car yesterday and both were impressed with the acceleration and how civilized the car was to drive. My buddy Reese raved about how easy and smooth the car was to drive. He is a hot rodder and sees Matt's car as the future of hot rodding for the next generation. As with most of us baby boomers, the technology is beyond out skills but we can appreciate the work and craftsmanship that goes into doing an electric car. After driving Matt's car, I can more readily see my daily driver being an electric car.