Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6 Options

[jerhofer]

Merry Christmas to everyone!

Last Thursday I was ready to start the car. I called Richard and had everything ready. I turned the ignition to start and was rewarded with the sound normally associated with a dead battery. Whrr, whrr, whrr!

Except the battery wasn't dead. I had just charged it a couple days before. I changed the cable from the battery to the starter with a heavier gauge wire. Same result. I then bought a new battery just to make sure. Same result. I was able to return the battery. After talking with my son, we wondered if the fact that the transmission had been painted might be an issue with the starter not making a good ground. I cleaned off all of the paint. Same result. I then used a jumper cable to run a direct wire from the negative cable of the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts. Same result. I mounted the other starter to no avail.

Now I wonder if we had sufficient clearance on that flywheel. With the spark plugs out of the engine, we could turn the flywheel by hand, although we did not try to turn it 360 degrees. I suspect the transmission will have to come out when we return from Florida. Before I do that, I will buy a new starter just to make sure that the starter isn't the issue.

This has been the most frustrated I have ever been with a project car. Getting away from it for some time will not break my heart. When I get back I will try again to get it going. In the meantime, the car is on the ground and I will be getting the motorhome ready for our trip.

BTW, Fiat did replace the motor in our car. The problem was a defective cylinder wall casting that did not allow the rings to seal. It was an entirely new motor including the turbo. We picked the car up last Friday. Hendrick Fiat in Concord, NC did a fantastic job of getting the motor here and installed so we could tow it behind the motorhome to FL.

[ge9146]

Sorry to hear that the little blue car misbehaved so much that you had to give it a "Time Out". Perhaps we can arrange to give it some sort of a talking to while you are staying warm.

Hopefully it will have learned it's lesson and behave properly when you get back to it.

All the Best and Happy New Year.

Ed

[jerhofer]

Sorry to hear that the little blue car misbehaved so much that you had to give it a "Time Out". Perhaps we can arrange to give it some sort of a talking to while you are staying warm.

Hopefully it will have learned it's lesson and behave properly when you get back to it.

All the Best and Happy New Year.

Ed

Happy New Year to you as well. We have had great weather so far. I have already attended two car shows. Jim and Judi are staying near here. The four of us toured the REVS Institute last week. This is the third time I have been there and it gets better every time. The first time was back in January 1990 not long after Collier's had acquired Brigg's Cunningham's collection. It was nearly all Porsche then but they now have a wonderful variety of racing and sports cars dating back to the twenties. Well worth the visit if anyone is in the Naples area.

Speaking of Naples, there is a big car show there next month that I am told is phenomenal. Looking forward to that. Also, there is a club race at Sebring the first weekend of February. I am planning on driving over there to spectate for a day. I drove in their DE group during the 1997 club race and am interested to see how the cars (and trappings) have escalated since then.

Matt is taking the 911Tesla apart to prepare it for painting next month. A friend of mine, who painted a couple of cars for me, is doing the work. I am sure he will do a great job.

[jerhofer]

Finally back at working on the car. I had purchased a new ignition switch at the Fort Myers Porsche dealership. Today I installed it. First up was removing the steering wheel followed by removing the knee pad. The knee pad is fastened with a small screw on each end and five bolts on the bottom.

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After unplugging the wiper and turn signal switch plugs, i removed the four small screws and pulled the switch out of the steering column.

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Now the two screws for the small housing that retains the ignition switch can be removed. There is a small spring that one has to be sure not to lose.

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After unplugging the ignition switch, the key can be used to remove the switch housing.


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[jerhofer]

Now I could take the ignition switch housing to the bench to remove the switch. That is done by first removing the very small set screw. I did not see any obvious signs of faiure on the switch so I doubt installing the new switch will solve my problem.

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Before re-assembling everything, I decided that I had to clean the vents at each end fo the knee pad. After removing the vents from the knee pad, I removed the swivel part and then disassembled each of those. Now I could clean everything.


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Last summer I had taken both of the starters that came with the car to a local electrical shop to have them checked out. They were both good. My son wondered if I had damaged the starters by trying to start the car when the flywheel was rubbing the block. So I took one of them back to the electrical shop to have it checked. I did buy a new Tilton high torque starter but I am leery of using it until I know why I am having this starting issue. I don't want to damage it. With this switch installed, I can put the car back on the lift and begin to troubleshoot some more.

[bbrock]

Great tutorial on replacing that switch! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[jerhofer]

Great tutorial on replacing that switch! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Thanks.

[jerhofer]

The Sweet Sound of Success

https://youtu.be/QiGgNXFAq1I

This past Monday I traveled to Denver, NC to buy some parts from John Forbes of Black Forest Racing. John has been working on and racing 914's almost from the beginning. After buying the parts, I related to him the starting issue I was having. His best guess was that I still had a clearance issue.

He also told me that on 914's with 911 motor conversions with a 901 tranny, he has always used a stock flywheel and a clutch from Patrick Motorsports. Since I am so frustrated with the Kennedy Engineering flywheel, I decided to take John's advice and order the parts from Patrick. While I was waiting for the parts to arrive, I removed the transmission (again) and removed the flywheel. It was still rubbing on the engine block.

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While talking to Brett at Kennedy about this issue last December, he had told me that, if I sent the flywheel to him, he would make sure it was to spec and send it back, free of charge. The flywheel is on the way to him.

Meanwhile, the Patrick Motorsport parts arrived late yesterday. I installed everything today and the result is what you heard in the video above. That sound was created by the new Tilton high torque starter. I didn't have the fuel pump hooked up as I wasn't actually trying to start the motor. That will come on Monday once I get with Richard Clewett for the initial startup. But I am relieved to have the starter operating as it should.

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BTW, Patrick balance the entire flywheel and pressure plate assembly. The pressure plate had a "Made in Germany" on it. All I had to do was line up the yellow lines.


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Earlier in the week I also addressed an oil leak. When I cleaned the bottom pan, I found oil in the left rear corner of the pan. I also found oil dripping on the arm of the lift. It was dripping off the rocker panel cover. When I looked up towards the tank, I could see oil on one of the fittings. In the photo below, you can also see a slight twist in the line.


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To get to that fitting, I had to remove the rocker cover. Even then, there was very little room to work. My best guess is that the line was installed to the tank prior to the tank installation. I was finally able to get the wrench on it but had to use a pry bar to apply pressure.



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I wasn't very happy with how the lines ran to the engine as the entire assembly was just hanging there. I found a hose clamp that worked and then loosened all of the fittings to relieve that twist in the line.


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I also rotated the line up where it runs over the top of the heat exchanger as it was nearly touching the exchanger.

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[ge9146]

Hallelujah!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Great to hear of your progress!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jerhofer]

For the first time in thirteen and a half years, the engine ran today...but not well...yet! I called Richard Clewett and, after him hooking up to my computer, he told me to start it. It would not fire. He said there was a problem with the crank sensor signal. He then asked if I was using a high torque starter. Upon hearing that I was, he said that they don't have any noise suppression and that they muddy up the crank sensor signal to the point where the computer will act as if it in not getting any signal. Thus, the engine will not start.

So I hung up and installed the stock starter. I tried it just before I called him and it started!! After getting him back on the phone, I got it to start. It was idling roughly, but idling. He was looking at the readouts when I decided to give it some gas to see if it would smooth out. It died and then would not restart. His conclusion was that we still had an issue with something messing with the crank sensor signal. His solution was for me to install a 1K ohm-1/2 watt resistor between the red and black wires of the crank sensor.

I called around and could not find anyone local selling resistors. Times like this are when we miss Radio Shack!! So I called my son and asked him where he would go to get a resistor. A little later he texted me back that they had a 1K ohm-1/8 watt resistor there at TRD. Since the cranks sensor signal is very low voltage, he thought it would work. It just so happens that he was coming to the house after work so he brought two with him.

Last Saturday I dd a Craigslist search for some garage cabinets. I came across an ad for four cabinets. Three were 78" long, 30" high and 12" deep. Another cabinet was 52" long. They were taken out of a medical clinic and were in excellent condition. Best of all, they were free as they wanted them out of their sun room. On Sunday, I hooked up my little utility trailer to the Audi and we picked them up. I plan on using two of the 78" cabinets while I gave the other two to Matt. Which is why he was coming to the house.


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Before we did anything with the cabinets, we began discussing the issue with the car. He told me that he could not see why a starter would dirty up a crank signal. I told him what had transpired earlier and, after a bit, he said, let's see it we can get it to start. I cranked it over and it started. Again the idle was very rough. Back in 2006 Matt had built a fuel injection system from scratch for his Camaro. He used an earlier version of the TEC ECU so he was familiar with the readouts. He did all of his own tuning on that car.

The Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) readings jumped out at him as he thought they were way too high and causing the computer to call for lots of fuel. We could tell it was running very rich. It was five o'clock here, but only two on the west coast. Richard was in and he and Matt were soon discussing the readings. He told Matt that the cams were too radical for the MAP sensor to work. He had Matt disconnect the main hose and plug it. He also wants me to remove all of the hoses that run to the throttle bodies and install a bolt in those places. The MAP will stay in the system but will become a barometer.

He wanted us to back out idle screws all the way and then screw them in 3/4 or a turn. And then we could work on the idle. I started the car and Matt went back and forth adjusting the idle but it did't seem to make any difference. It was idling at 500 rpm. He had me give it some more gas and then, when I let off, the idle went way up. We shut it down at this point and told Richard we would call him back once we had the idle set. After disconnecting the linkage, Matt started over and, again, it did not seem to make and difference where he set the idle screw. He then noticed it was running very lean. So he richened it up and the idle immediately went up quite a bit. Now, when he made an adjustment, something actually happened. This is where we left it for today. Tomorrow I am going to go through Richard's procedure for balancing the intakes with a sync meter. Once I have done that, I will be calling Richard back to have him make final adjustments.

I had a small drop of fuel near the fuel pump area that I need to look into. Also, that original oil leak is still there now that the oil was under pressure. I will see if I can figure out some way to tighten that line without removing the tank. Matt looked at it and said, "Good luck with that!"

[mepstein]

I purchased a really expensive 32mm crowsfoot to try to tighten that line. No luck. I had to pull the tank.

[jerhofer]

I purchased a really expensive 32mm crowsfoot to try to tighten that line. No luck. I had to pull the tank.

That's encouraging!!! I might buy a cheap wrench and grind it down to fit. On the other hand, is it a real 911 engine if it doesn't leak???

[jerhofer]

Yesterday I removed all of the MAP hoses and the manifold. Sure cleaned up the engine bay.


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Today I installed the resistor between the red and black wires for the crank fire trigger, as Richard suggested. I unplugged the main plug at the ECU and found the wires there.

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Richard has a great video on setting adjusting the idle and airflow on initial startup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGjN3wrGi0g

Following these instructions I got the engine to idle and the air flow readings on the synchrometer to be even.

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However, I was still not happy with the sound of the engine and the fact that is was spitting. I called Richard back and had him listen to the motor. It kind of sounds like an old tractor motor. After shutting it off, he asked if I had an infrared heat gun. I do have one and he suggested taking a reading on each of the exhaust ports. Cylinder one was about 50 degrees cooler than the other five. So we have an issue there. It was late enough in the day that I did not do any more work today.

I had double checked to make sure I had the correct wires run to each of the injectors and the COP's. First thing tomorrow I am going to open up the cylinder one plugs to make sure the leads are seated properly and that I do not have a broken wire. Assuming they are OK, I will pull the plug to see what i have there. I can then check for spark. My son has a tester for the fuel injector plugs but he is currently in Sebring, FL doing some track testing for TRD. He will be back late Friday. He has to do some last minute preparations on getting his car ready for the body shop, as they are going to pick up the car Sunday morning. If I haven't found anything by then, he is going to bring his tester over. He also has a leak down tester which we may use on cylinder one.

So, close, but no cigar yet!!!

[jerhofer]

Before I began troubleshooting cylinder one, I worked on the two oil leaks. Both were at connections to lines. The one on the bottom was easy to get to, but I needed a 1/3/16 wrench for one side of the AN fittings. I didn't have a wrench that size. I was about to go uptown to buy one when I wondered if my old 911 oil line wrenches might work. I dug them out and, sure enough, the 27mm and 30mm wrenches fit perfectly. After tightening the center line, it was time to figure out how to get the 27mm wrench on that fitting under the tank. After grinding off a significant amount on the 27mm wrench, I was finally able to make it work. With it in place, I used the 30mm to tighten the line. I ran the motor later one while doing the troubleshooting and both lines were dry after I shut off the motor.

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On cylinder one, I pulled the injector and COP plugs. I could not see any obvious wiring issues. The terminals appeared to be seated properly and tugging on the wires did not reveal anything loose. I pulled the spark plug and it appeared to have been firing.

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I checked the voltage on the COP plug and it was correct. My son has a test light for the injector plug but he told me I could make one by using a small wattage bulb. I soldered two leads on to the bulb. I tested the bulb to make sure it was working.

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When I pulled the injector plug while the engine was running, the idle dropped. I inserted the test lamp leads and there was a faint flickering of light on and off. This is a very low voltage signal so I wasn't expecting the bulb to shine brightly. Based on that test and seeing the plug, I feel there is both fuel and spark in the cylinder.

I then called John Forbes at Black Forest Racing in Denver, NC, about 50 miles from here. After relating the issues, he recommended doing a compression test. My son has a tester and we will do that this Sunday. There is a definite knock on that side so I am afraid that there is something wrong internally. If we discover an issue with the compression test, I will be taking the car to John to have him work on it. Internal engine work is above my pay grade!!

I talked to Ed Scott about what exactly happened when the transmission broke at Grattan over thirteen years ago. He said it was a big non-event for the motor as he went from third to fourth and no one was home. There was no over rev on the motor. So the issue is a mystery.

On the plus side, near the end of our at least half hour conversation, I remarked to Ed that it was apparent that he was feeling better. I could tell a huge difference in his voice from the last time we talked. He reported that sometime in December of January, a turning point was reached and he began to have a lot more energy. He has been doing rehabilitation exercizes and his leg muscles have begun responding a bit. He's not sure what happened but is grateful for the extra energy. I told him that, based on how long it has taken me to get the car back together, he might be able to drive it once it is running well. Very good news on his health!!!

[jerhofer]

To try to eliminate various items, I switched the coil packs on cylinder one and two with no difference. I then switched the spark plugs, again, with no difference. The cylinder two spark plug looked pretty much the same as cylinder one. I also noticed a new oil leak on the bottom of the number one jug.


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I talked to John Forbes yesterday and he can take the car anytime after Tuesday. He is going to call a guy he has used to haul cars and have him pick up the car. My buddy came down this morning and we installed the trunks and engine lids. I also installed the hats on the throttle bodies and the cover for the steering rack. It is ready to go. Everything is fixable...at a price!!!

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[mepstein]

Pretty car. I bet it looks great in the sun.

[jerhofer]

Pretty car. I bet it looks great in the sun.

Thanks. It hasn’t seen much sun for the past nearly fourteen years!

[jerhofer]

A BIG FAT DUNCE CAP FOR ME!!!

This past Tuesday, John Forbes and some friends picked up the car in an enclosed trailer and took it to his shop, Black Forest Racing, in Denver, NC. The next day he said he had found the problem and sent me this photo.


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At first I couldn't see what was wrong. And then it dawned on me. I had bolted the oil line for the chain tensioner to the boss rather than to the hole to the right which was the chain tensioner. Which explains the engine sounding like a tractor engine and making weird noises. I had removed that line so that I could drill the hole for the head temp sensor. What really galls me is that I really struggled installing the heater hose because that line was in the way. Bolting it to the boss made the line sit up higher causing the interference. Hence the dunce cap for me!!

I drove over to John's shop today. He had removed the timing chain cover and did not find any metal shavings are any indication of damage. However, since the tensioner was bouncing around, he is replacing it. He feels pretty good about that being the only issue but, once the car is back together, he is going to do a leak down test to make sure there isn't still a problem in cylinder one. He is also going to check the cam timing. I apologize for the photo below as I had to use my phone in a low light situation.


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John's son works with Richard Clewett regularly. Once they have everything fixed and the engine back in the car, they will consult with Richard while they run the car on their dyno.

John has been working on 914's since the beginning. Everywhere you looked you saw either 914 cars or parts. They had a beautiful 914 with a 3.2 Carrera motor with flares and finished in Gulf Blue and orange. Beautiful car.

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Today I received the resurfaced flywheel back from Kennedy Engineering. He had told me that it would look radically different. See for yourself with the first photo being the rear of the flywheel after I removed it from the car and the bottom photo being the current configuration.


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[jerhofer]

Great news today. John Forbes, of Black Forest Racing, called me this afternoon to tell me the motor is running, and running well. He did a leak down test and it was 2% on all cylinders. According to John, the leak down test should be done on a warm motor. Since he wanted to know what he had before he put the motor back in the car, he did the test on a stone cold motor. He thinks the leak down percentages would be closer to zero had the engine been warm. He said the engine sounds great and is very responsive.

His son is the computer guy who runs the dyno. He is out of town this week so it will be next week before we can put it on the dyno.

After installing the shifter, it was really stiff. John noticed that as well and they fixed that. He said it now shifts well. Now that the motor is back in the car, John is having the State Police come to his shop to inspect it since it has an out of state title. Once he has that done, I will be driving there (about fifty miles) to pick up the paperwork and get it registered. And...to hear that motor run!!!

[ge9146]

Great News!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)