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> Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6
mepstein
post Aug 18 2018, 12:14 PM
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914-6 GT in waiting
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Looks like the wheels sold quickly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jerhofer
post Aug 18 2018, 12:25 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 18 2018, 02:14 PM) *

Looks like the wheels sold quickly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


A 911 restorer near Dallas bought them.
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jerhofer
post Aug 21 2018, 07:20 PM
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I finally found a few hours to spend on the engine today. At the rear of a 911 engine is the "Holy Trinity", a place where oil leaks commonly occur. The three items are the oil pressure sender, the oil thermostat, and the breather. Since these would be very difficult to get to once the motor is back in the car, I removed all of them and re-sealed them. Being a little pro-active here.

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Another potential oil leak can come from the engine oil cooler. There are three green seals that I replaced. I spent some time cleaning here as well.

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In anticipation of adjusting the valves, I removed the valve covers on one side before I ran out of time. To get the upper valve cover off, I had to loosen the oil line for the pressure fed chain tensioner. This allowed me to rotate it slightly to make clearance for the valve cover. I taped a note on it to remind me to tighten it once I replace the valve cover.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1534900815.12.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Aug 27 2018, 08:08 PM
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Before we left on our motorhome trip, I took the car to my favorite body shop to have a few things addressed. When I initially received the car there was a plastic covering on the leading edge of the rear flares. This plastic covered up a bunch of stone chips. I had both rear quarter panels painted.

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Both the front and rear valances and the rocker panels also needed some help. All of these parts were removed from the car to be painted.

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There was a dent from the bottom side on one of the rear quarter panels. They had been painted only so there was no protection from rocks being thrown up. The body shop applied German schutz underbody seal to the wheel wells. In this photo you can see the the inner fender enforcement kit that Perry Kiehl installed during the build.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1535422086.6.jpg)

The bumper pads had some cracks so I ordered new ones. The body shop installed them.


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I decided I wasn't happy with the finish on the valve covers. I bead blasted two of them today and will do the other two tomorrow. Then they will make a trip to the powder coater.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1535422086.10.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Aug 29 2018, 02:45 PM
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When removing the valve covers, one stud came out with the nut as it was stripped. Had to install a new stud.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1535575516.1.jpg)

I adjusted the valves. I discovered a pair of brand new turbo lower valve covers which I installed. While waiting for my upper valve covers to be powder coated, I used some cardboard to act as temporary covers.


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Next I removed the old spark plugs. They showed the car had been running rich with the PMO carburetors. I installed the new plugs recommended for the EFI.


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To install the crank fire pulley for the EfI, I first needed to remove the stock pulley. To do that I temporarily installed the flywheel so I could insert a flywheel lock.

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With the stock pulley removed, I was ready to install the crank fire pulley. However, at first, I could not get it to clear the fan housing. The gear on the crank fire pulley needs to be behind the fan housing. To get it into place I had to loosen the fan housing, raise it slightly and then install the crank fire pulley at an angle to clear the fan housing. Once that was done I could line up the pulley on the crankshaft and tighten everything. As you can see in the photo below, there is very little clearance between the fan housing and the pulley.


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Removing the distributor and replacing it with the supplied plug was next on the list. With the plug in place, I could install the crank fire sensor holder.


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mepstein
post Aug 29 2018, 03:02 PM
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914-6 GT in waiting
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On a lot of cars, the turbo covers need the outer ribs milled down a bit (I think 3/8' does it, might be 5/8) in order to remove them while the engine is in the car.
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jerhofer
post Aug 29 2018, 04:48 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 29 2018, 05:02 PM) *

On a lot of cars, the turbo covers need the outer ribs milled down a bit (I think 3/8' does it, might be 5/8) in order to remove them while the engine is in the car.


I can't imagine adjusting the valves with the motor in the car. It's hard enough to do the upper valves in a 911 but, given the small access in a 914, I would need a couple extra double jointed arms, hands and fingers to even consider it. It would be easier to pull the motor.
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914Timo
post Aug 30 2018, 10:30 AM
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WOW !! Six bolt flywheel. Not an ordinary 3L crank.

Thanks for shearing pics and info. Very very nice car. Love it !!
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jerhofer
post Aug 30 2018, 02:26 PM
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Had to take the dog to the groomer. I sold my 1999 Boxster and, in North Caroliana, you have to turn in your license plates before you can cancel your insurance. Cancel the insurance first and you will receive a nasty letter from the state. So to the DMV I went. After doing some other running around, I got back to the garage by late morning. Since I had to pick up the dog when she was done at the groomer's, I didn't want to start a big project.

During the night I was thinking about whether or not to paint the fan shroud before I begin to install the throttle bodies. It came to me that I might try some polish and wax to make it look better. That worked!! The first photo was taken earlier while the other photo was taken today after I had applied some elbow grease to the shroud.


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Charlotte has a Cars and Coffee every first Saturday. It is open to anyone who wants to attend and usually attracts at least 500 cars. Every third Sunday, Cars and Cappuccino happens. This is for European cars only and is by invitation. There were a couple McLaren 720S and a couple Ferrari's among the Porsche's and other makes.

One person there had a Euro 911 with Fuchs wheels. Since I was looking for wheels for the 914 I asked him if they were replicas. They were and I would have known that had I looked at the tire size. They were 17" Euromeister's. I had been considering these wheels and I quickly asked him if he was happy with them and did they balance well. The answer was yes to both questions. A little later another gentleman arrived with the same wheel package and was equally positive.

These wheels occasionally go on sale for very special pricing by Automotion. While i was waiting for the sale price, I began to consider what sizes I wanted to order. While the 17's looked great on both of those 911's, I wondered about the thin sidewall of a 17" tire. I finally decided to compromise and go with the 16" wheels, 8's in front and 9's in the rear. They arrived yesterday afternoon and today I mounted the wheels, sans tires, to see if there were any clearance issues. All seemed well so I called Tire Rack and ordered tires.


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For tires I decided on 225/50's front and 245/50's rear. There were about ten options that offered a tire in both sizes. After reading Tire Rack's reviews, I called them to ask about the GENERAL G-MAX RS SL. This is a summer tire. The gentleman at Tire Rack said they had been very impressed with this tire's performance in their testing. General is now owned by Continental which may explain why they did well. A couple years ago I bought a set of General high performance all season tires for my Audi Allroad and was very pleased with them. I ordered the G-Max's and they should arrive at the installer tomorrow.

Gratuitous photos of the cutest and happiest dog in the world. But then I may be biased.


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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1535660767.9.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Aug 30 2018, 04:04 PM
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QUOTE(914Timo @ Aug 30 2018, 12:30 PM) *

WOW !! Six bolt flywheel. Not an ordinary 3L crank.

Thanks for shearing pics and info. Very very nice car. Love it !!


The car came with this Kennedy Engineering flywheel & clutch.
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jerhofer
post Aug 31 2018, 07:47 PM
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I worked all afternoon and accomplished quite a bit. First off I installed the crank position sensor in the holder. It called for a .035 gap. The tightening bolt called for 45 in/lb.

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Time to work on the intake manifolds. The studs need to be installed as well as the bell crank. Next up was prepping the motor to accept the manifolds. An insulator is sandwiched between two gaskets for each cylinder.

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jerhofer
post Aug 31 2018, 07:59 PM
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Now it was the throttle bodies turn. First up is installing a retaining clip on each fuel injector base. After oiling the "O" ring, i inserted the injector into the fuel rail. Once it is fully seated, the retaining clip is rotated to lock it in place.

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Once the injectors are secured to the fuel rail, the other end of the injectors is inserted into the throttle body. The fuel rail is secured to the throttle body with a bolt going through a spacer.


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Next the AN fittings with "O" rings are fitted to each end of the fuel rails.

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The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) in fitted to one end of the throttle shaft.

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Now each throttle body can be fitted to the intake manifolds.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1535767157.10.jpg)
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914forme
post Sep 1 2018, 07:46 PM
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Very nice work there. Making me reconsider the PMOs.
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jerhofer
post Sep 1 2018, 07:48 PM
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Spent most of the morning getting the tires mounted. Tech said they balanced well. I had to use a 1/4" spacer on the rears to clear the inner fender. To simulate the drivetrain, I loaded 200lbs of salt in the very rear of the trunk. The car was only lowered about a 1/4" with all of that weight. Stiff suspension!! Lowering it reduced the rear wheel clearance. Since I have room on the outside, I will be using a larger spacer. Once I have the clearances where I want them to be, I can install the correct size wheel studs.


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To complete the Chinese wheel configuration, I installed the center caps I had purchased earlier this summer on eBay. They cost $118 for a set of four with free shipping from China. They are of surprisingly good quality. I should have taken a photo of the rear as they are anodized like the factory caps. And they fit perfectly.


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I did get to spend a little time on the linkage. Richard's instructions recommend drilling a half inch hole in the right side mount for routing a vacuum hose to the port behind the mount. I also had to install the rod ends on the cross bar.


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Larmo63
post Sep 1 2018, 11:46 PM
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Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

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eric9144
post Sep 2 2018, 10:05 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 1 2018, 10:46 PM) *

Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

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jerhofer
post Sep 3 2018, 03:07 AM
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QUOTE(eric9144 @ Sep 3 2018, 12:05 AM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 1 2018, 10:46 PM) *

Please don't think we aren't geeking out on your build. Your thread is well written & documented, and it's interesting.

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Thanks for the compliments.
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RickS
post Sep 3 2018, 09:52 AM
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Piling on. Outstanding thread and I applaud your build quality and attention to detail.
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jerhofer
post Sep 3 2018, 04:13 PM
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I finished up the linkage today. The left side rod ends are attached to the rod and to the throttle shaft. One begins with the rod ends at their shortest length and then two turns are added to the length. Then the rod from the bell crank to the rod can be installed. I will have to adjust it once I have the throttle pedal hooked up. The right side rod ends are adjusted so the throttle remains on the stop.

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Next up was installing the air cleaners. The base plate is fastened first and then the hats.


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Vacuum lines have to be run from each throttle body to the vacuum manifold. It is mounted by using the studs for the oil thermostat using extensions. Some spark plug wire separators worked perfectly to route the vacuum lines.


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jerhofer
post Sep 4 2018, 07:31 PM
Post #60


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From: Rockwell, NC
Member No.: 22,140
Region Association: South East States



One more vacuum line needed to be run from the vacuum manifold. It went to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. At first glance, I thought the holes would line up perfectly with the holes on the vacuum manifold. However, they were off by about an eighth of an inch. Since one bolt would be sufficient to mount the sensor, I used my Dremel to ground down the one leg on the bottom of the sensor so it would fit better on top of the vacuum manifold. Wiring to come later.


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The manifold air temperature (MAT) sensor needed to be installed into the base of the air cleaner. After drilling a 7/8" hole and installing a grommet, the MAT sensor is screwed into the grommet. Sounds a little strange but it fits very securely.


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