Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6 Options

[jerhofer]

The instructions called for adding a second return spring on both throttle bodies. The recommended way was to drill a 1/8" hole into the air cleaner base. A 1/8" cotter pin is inserted from the bottom and spread out on the top of the air cleaner base. The excess metal on the cotter pin is cut away. The bottom of the cotter pin becomes the eye for the upper mount for the return spring.


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Because I was concerned about the vacuum line on the left side being close to the throttle linkage, I decided to clamp it to the fan shroud.

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To install the cam sync adapter, the plug on the end of the cam housing must be removed. As recommended, I used a dent puller for removal. I drilled a small hole off to one side, inserted a screw into the holder and screwed it into the plug. By pulling on the slide weight on the puller, the cap was easily removed. I placed some grease on the drill bit to catch most of the shavings.


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The next instruction said Rotate the engine through a cycle stopping 90 degrees before Z1 on the compression stroke." When I had installed the new fan pulley, I had the engine set at TDC. As I began to rotate the motor, I was interrupted. When I came back I realized that I didn't know where I was on the cycle. No problem. As I have done in the past, I would pull plug #1, insert a 1/4" wooden dowel, mark it and then see when it was pushed out the maximum at Z1. And this is when my day went sour. After cranking through a couple cylinders, the dowel was snagged by something and a piece was broken off. The broken off piece was about an inch long and about half the dowel width.


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I got a piece of clear hose and attached it to my shop vac and tried to suck it out. When that didn't work, I called Richard Clewett at Clewett Engineering, the guy who sold me the EFI kit. His first thought was to see if the #1 exhaust valve was open. If so, he recommended using air to blow it out. Since the exhaust was on, I removed it or else I wouldn't know if anything came out. The exhaust valve was open. Blowing air into it do not work. I have an engine camera scope. After inserting it through the plug hole, I could not see the piece of wood. I also looked up through the open valve and it was not visible there.

Since my skills stop at building motors, I will have to take the motor somewhere and have the head removed to see what is going on. Not the way I wanted to end the day but sometimes things happen. My son works with Todd Holbert (Al"s son) at Toyota Racing Development (TRD). My son texted him about shops that he would recommend. I will be contacting them tomorrow.

[jerhofer]

Today was a better day. I removed the left side throttle bodies and manifolds so I could see in through the intake valve for cylinder #1. I rotated the engine so the valve was open. Using my camera scope I could see nothing. I checked again with the exhaust valve open and saw nothing again. With the piston recessed in the cylinder, I was able to look completely around it and nothing showed. I could see that there was nothing caught by the valves. So, I am convinced that there is nothing in that cylinder.

When I hooked up my shop vac yesterday, I used a clear tube to suck from the spark plug hole so I could see anything that might be vacuumed out. I was looking for a piece that was the size of the piece that was missing. However, the dowel is made from some really soft wood and it might have been crushed when it was caught by a valve. So there may have been fragments that were sucked out that I didn't see.

I rotated the motor through a complete cycle and double checked my valve clearances.

So I got back to doing the job that started all of this commotion yesterday...installing the cam sync adapter. The motor is to be in the position with Z1 at 90 degrees before TDC on the cam pulley.. Once I had that set, the next step is to mount the adapter without the gasket. It is recommended to add a witness mark at this time.

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With it mounted, you insert the drill bushing using a 4.2mm drill bit. Since I couldn't find anyone handling metric drill bits, the next closest that fits into the drill bushing is 5/32. A little over 1/2" deep hole is drilled into the end of the cam. That hole is tapped with a M5-0.8 thread. The supplied bolt is then bolted into the hole with the head being flush with the cam surface using red loctite. The adapter is then mounted with the gasket. You then check the distance from the cam sensor mounting surface to the top of the M5 bolt. The distance should be 33.0-33.5mm (1.300-1.320). Mine was in that range. Now the cam sensor can be mounted to the adapter. It reads the bolt head as the cam rotates.


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[Dave_Darling]

OK, I am officially stunned. It's been almost 8 hours, and nobody has chimed in with mention of the Infamous Chopstick???

--DD

[jerhofer]

OK, I am officially stunned. It's been almost 8 hours, and nobody has chimed in with mention of the Infamous Chopstick???

--DD

A few years ago I bought a Ferrari 348 knowing that it needed to have the timing belt changed. It was critical here to have the motor at TDC. I used the very same dowel on that motor and it worked flawlessly. Since that was a V8 rather than a boxer motor, the spark plug hole was more vertical. I would guess that was why it worked better on that motor.


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I sold that car a couple years ago to a guy in California who I still am in touch with. He has put over 10K miles on it so I must have got it back together right. He has been very, very happy with the car. It was a fun car to drive but I could never get physically comfortable in it. Because it didn't have power steering or brakes and with the weight bias being about the same as a 911, driving it reminded me of the '80's 911's of my past. But prettier!!

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[jerhofer]

Another day, another sensor for the engine. This time it was a head temperature sensor. It can be installed on either side on the front of the engine. There are two walls in this area and you are to drill only through the first wall. The shavings fall into a void so they will not enter the motor. That hole has to be tapped with a M10-1.0 tap. I have a pretty good selection of taps and dies but this one was not included. After a few calls, I found one at a local bolt and tool store. To get to this area, the chain tensioner pressure feed lines have to be unbolted. I was out of the crush washers for these banjo fittings which meant another trip to find them. I spent a good part of the day driving around!!


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The -6 AN fuel lines and fittings arrived today along with the crimper needed to do the many weather pack connectors required to make the computer happy. My son has an identical crimper but, since he is in the middle of installing the Tesla motor in the '79 911, he will be using his. Normally, I would have borrowed his.

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[IronHillRestorations]

You are taking that car to the next level!

[jerhofer]

You are taking that car to the next level!

Thanks. That means a lot coming from you.

[jerhofer]

When I retired ten years ago this November, I told my wife that, since she had cleaned the house for the first forty years of our marriage, I would take care of the next forty years. Which is a good deal for me as our chances of being married eighty years are pretty slim!!! So Friday morning is house cleaning day.

I did spend a very short time on running my first fuel lines. I plumbed in a fuel gauge so I can set the fuel pressure with the regulator. I also ran the line across the rear from carb to carb. My son has lots of experience running AN fuel lines. He told me to heavily wrap the area where I was going to cut a line so the end would not fray. That suggestion worked well.


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Tomorrow I am taking one of the exhaust's to my son's house to have an O2 sensor bung welded in. The instructions call for mounting the sensor at a 15 degree angle. Should be a good challenge for my son. I will be taking him away from working on his Tesla 911 project. Here are a few pics from last week.

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[jerhofer]

One last sensor!! A wide band O2 sensor had to be installed. The car already had O2 sensors in both exhaust pipes for a gauge on the dash. However, the O2 sensor that came with the kit called for it to be installed at a 15 degree angle. My son had a spare sensor bung so I carted the right side exhaust to his house. He ground down the existing bung to get the correct angle. After test fitting the bung, he decided the bung might be too thick which would not allow the sensor to properly extend into the exhaust. So he put it on a vice and ground it down. Using an angle meter, he fine tuned the bung angle and began welding. Good to have a good son!!!

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To fit his wheels to his 911 Tesla project car, Matt had purchased a number of spacers and shims from Elephant Racing. I had mentioned to him that I needed to move the rear wheels out a bit for clearance on the inside. He gave he his spacers and shims. I liked the Elephant spacers better than the H & R spacers that came with my car. I used a 7mm spacer and a 2mm shim to get the clearance I wanted.

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[jerhofer]

To prepare for running the fuel lines, I removed the front pan to reveal the old fuel pump and lines. Happily, I discovered a fuel return line connector on the tank. After removing all of the old lines at both ends of the car, I can see that I will have to remove the tank to connect the new fuel lines. From what I could see at the rear, it appears there is a metal fuel line that runs in a tunnel from the fuel tank area to the rear of the car. Is that correct? Also, can anyone tell me how the factory ran the return line from the engine bay to the tank?

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[914forme]

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.

[jerhofer]

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.

Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.

[jerhofer]

My buddy came down this morning to help me remove both hoods. They ended up in my wife's bedroom.

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The wife's bedroom have been the repository for a number of hoods from project cars over the years.

1964 Corvette hood


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1977 Camaro Pro Touring car

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[Dave_Darling]

Here's a link to the original Chopstick thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=22782&hl=

Give it a read when you have some time, and need a laugh or six...

--DD

[jerhofer]

Here's a link to the original Chopstick thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=22782&hl=

Give it a read when you have some time, and need a laugh or six...

--DD

That was entertaining. And I could surely empathize with the thread originator.

[jerhofer]

I pulled the fuel tank this morning. First up was removing the filler neck and then the expansion tank.


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[jerhofer]

Before removing the tank, I looked inside to see its condition. The only rust I could see was in the area around the outlet and inlet. I will address that before re-installing the tank.

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With the expansion tank removed, I could now remove the tank. I lifted up on it enough to put it from the rubber insulator blocks on each end and out it came.

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There were a couple of rusty areas on the tank. I will address these with POR15. There was a corresponding area of rust in the tank bay. That will be addressed as well.

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The tank bay appeared to be in good condition.

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[porschetub]

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.

Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.

You must retain the new pump up the front,most pumps prefer to push fuel from a close suction point rather than sucking from a distance,the location of the old pump is fine because the pump will always have a "head" of fuel on it...please don't use those type of screw hose clips again,safer to use FI clamps what ever system you have high or low pressure.
Buy the best quality HP fuel hose you can find ,even on carbs this is what I use,Richard will give a recommendation .
Really nice car ,good luck.

[jerhofer]

Now I wanted to figure out what I was going to do with the fuel lines from the firewall to the tank bay. Since Perry Kiehl built the car, I figured he would know what line was in place. I placed a call and found Perry to be very, very helpful. He said the existing line was a one piece metal line that he had installed. He mentioned calling Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing for help with getting a feed line.

Chris was also very helpful. There are two holes on the firewall for fuel lines, one for the feed line and one for the return line. Upon seeing my thread, he noticed that the existing feed line was in the return line hole and that the fitting on the end was in front of the other hole.

As you experienced people know, the fuel lines normally run to the right side of the engine bay. However, I wanted to run the feed line to the left and mount the fuel regulator and fuel filter on the firewall high up on the left side for easy access. From there I would run a fuel line from the regulator to the left side throttle body. The plan then was to run the return line from the right side throttle body back to the return line in the firewall.

Chris said he could make custom make the line with AN fittings on both ends. So I could see what I had, I removed the existing line. I then used a line to test my plan of running the feed line to the left side. It appeared to work as I could run it through an existing hole in the engine mount. So the new line would go in the same hole as the existing line. I could then fit the old line in the right hole and use it for the return line.

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I spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up the tank bay and the tank.


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[jerhofer]

You can see them in the tunnel by opening up the rear access cover. it is under your the storage unit between the seats. Black cover single screw. Once you have it out, you can then look in there and see if you have an all metal line. Hopefully some previous own installed two SS lines for you. If not you can make them, or just get them from Tangerine, Chris will even weld a -6 bung on it for you.

this 914 looks wonderful, keep up the great work. And yes that GearWrench Tap and Die set has almost every die you need. I have a few that I had to pickup also. Shorter NPT dies, and stuff for left handed threads.

BTW, I keep an old set of sockets around for making extended die handles for just such and occasion. I see your using a wrench in the above picture. Impact sockets are pretty easy to cut and weld if you ever need to make a custom tool of some kind.

Thanks for the info. I surely could have used an extension for that tap. It was a very tight area to get to.

I looked up Tangerine. After I look through that access cover and get the tank out, I'll see what I have to work with. I may be calling them.

As for locating the fuel pump, I would have a whole lot less line under high pressure if I located it in the engine compartment. But I have concerns about heat in that area. I would have to run power to the pump in the engine bay while the power is already there in the front. Have to think about all of this some more.

You must retain the new pump up the front,most pumps prefer to push fuel from a close suction point rather than sucking from a distance,the location of the old pump is fine because the pump will always have a "head" of fuel on it...please don't use those type of screw hose clips again,safer to use FI clamps what ever system you have high or low pressure.
Buy the best quality HP fuel hose you can find ,even on carbs this is what I use,Richard will give a recommendation .
Really nice car ,good luck.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to mount the pump in the front as today I resolved how to run the return and feed lines through the tunnel. I will look for those FI clamps.