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> Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6
jerhofer
post Sep 13 2018, 07:17 PM
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I spent some time on storm preparation this week since the big one is near. I have plenty of gas for the generator and I made sure the downspouts are draining properly. Looks like we will get some wind and lots of rain.

I will be using the brass fitting that had been on the old fuel pipe. It looked pretty nasty and a little metal polish went a long way.


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Upon looking at the steering rack protective plate, I decided it needed to be re-finished. After blasting it, I took it to the powder coater.

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The powder coater had my upper valve covers ready. Now I could set about installing them. Since I am using coil on plugs, I have retaining rails that needed to be installed. They use two of the valve cover nuts. Because of the depth of the retainer, I had to install longer studs. With that done I now inserted the coil on plug connectors.

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914forme
post Sep 13 2018, 07:25 PM
Post #82


Times a wastin', get wrenchin'!
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COP nice, I am liking that kit more and more I see.

Hope you stay high and dry.
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jerhofer
post Sep 13 2018, 07:30 PM
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While I cannot finish the plumbing for the fuel line, I was able to mount the fuel regulator and the filter today. I wanted to place them where they will be easily accessible. I chose to mount them on the firewall on the upper left side. I brought out the engine lid and it appears they should both work here. I fastened the fuel filter directly to the regulator to save room.

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The wiring sheath on the firewall is in poor condition. In preparation for wrapping my wiring harness, I bought some Tesa fabric tape specifically made for engine compartments. According to their website, German car manufacturers use this tape. It worked well and was plenty sticky. I liked the appearance it gave. It should make my wiring EFI harness look good.


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Speaking of the EFI harness, I printed the ECU installation instructions. This should keep me busy for a bit.


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jerhofer
post Sep 13 2018, 07:36 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 13 2018, 09:25 PM) *

COP nice, I am liking that kit more and more I see.

Hope you stay high and dry.



I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.

If we lose power, my generator will allow me to keep the refrigerator and pump going. I might have to shut everything else off so I can still run the AC and lights in the garage!!! After all, there are priorities!!!
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Cairo94507
post Sep 14 2018, 06:17 AM
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I hope you ride this storm out with no issues. Love the work on your car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jerhofer
post Sep 15 2018, 02:12 PM
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Very light rain and winds so far today. The heavy rain and higher winds are supposed to start this evening.

I worked on installing the fuel pump today. The pump came standard with a check valve fitting. Richard Clewett says he replaces that fitting with a -6 AN male threads to 10mm x 1.0 Male as shown in the photo below. I could not find this one in black.


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The old fuel pump had been installed across from the steering rack support but my new one is too long to fit there. I used the existing slot in the steering rack support. I widened the slot a bit, using my Dremel tool, so a bolt would fit through it. To reduce fuel pump noise I used some old bushings from one of my parts bins. To make the bolt length work, I had to cut the front side bushing in half to reduce its thickness. Looking in another parts bin, I found a curved piece of steel that would work to attach the hose clamp for mounting the fuel pump. As with most projects like this, much time was spent on finding and fiddling with various parts. I re-did the fuel pump wiring harness to make it both cleaner and more efficient. Since the steering rack cover is still at the powder coater, I won't know for sure if I have an clearance issues. If so, since I am using a slot, I can move everything up if necessary.

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jerhofer
post Sep 16 2018, 01:30 PM
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I wasn't happy with the front trunk junction box that was in the car when I got it. There was no cover for it and all of the leads were exposed. It would be easy to short it out.

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I found a unit at Summit Racing that had a cover and looked like it was a quality piece.

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When I installed the fuel pump yesterday, I wasted my time hooking up the wiring as it had been for the old fuel pump. Turns out there is a wiring harness that came with the ECU that has a built in fuse block and relays. This fuel pump draws a lot more amps than the old pump.

After installing the box, I used my Dremel to cut off the extra bolt length inside the fuel tank bay. Perry Kiehl had installed a windshield washer in the trunk. I wired it, and ran a ground and a power lead for the junction box. When I install the radio, I will use this box for power and fusing.

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jerhofer
post Sep 24 2018, 02:31 PM
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I didn't get much done on the car last week. After the storm there were lots of branches down in the yard. I have been waiting for the temperatures to moderate before I cleaned up the motorhome after our last trip. I finally gave up waiting for cooler temps. I spent a couple days preparing it for our next trip.


I cleaned up the wiring to the junction box in the front trunk. The wires had previously been run near the shock towers which made them visible. I decided to run them along the oil cooler lines. Since these lines become very warm, I cut up some old spark plug insulators and wrapped them around the oil lines to provide insulation for them wiring. I also ran two extra wires inside the harness for possible future use.

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Upon closer inspection, I found some rust inside the fuel tank. I took it to a local guy to get an estimate for getting rid of the rust and sealing the tank. The cost was $325. Automobile Atlanta had a new tank for $335 shipped. The new tank arrived in a day. I removed the old hose line fittings a week ago. The screen and the crush washers were fused with the fittings. I have had them soaking in a solvent for the past week. Even after all that time, I had to do some friendly persuasion to get the old pieces off. Today I installed the fittings with the new screen and washers. I also transferred the fuel tank sender from the old tank to the new one.


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The EFI ECU was installed in the rear trunk along with the power module containing four fuses and a couple relays. Besides proving power to the ECU, this harness lets the ECU control turning on the fuel pump. Lots of wires to hook up!!!

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My Optima battery arrived. I temporarily set it into place as I will need to hook it up to find my power sources. To make it fit, I had to cut off the extra pieces on each end.

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jerhofer
post Sep 25 2018, 02:20 PM
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One should never aerate your lawn and add fertilizer, lime and grass seed a week before a hurricane dumps over 8" of rain on your lawn. Mowing must ensue!! Since formal exercising is not natural for me, I use a walk behind mower to make up for my lack of ambition. I also happen to like how the lawn looks when mowed in this manner. A beer never tastes better than drank when one is hot and sweaty after mowing a lawn!! A case could be made that the beer justifies the entire operation!!!

After sorting through my boxes of miscellaneous metal, I found a piece that I could modify to make a battery hold down bracket for the Optima battery. After much fiddling, I had a piece that would work. I couldn't make it symmetrical as the fastener is not centered in the battery tray. With the hold down in place, the battery is very secure. After cleaning it up, I blasted and painted it.


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The seat tracks needed some attention as well. Blasting and painting them made them look better.

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jerhofer
post Sep 26 2018, 06:40 PM
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I worked on the power harness wiring for the EFI today. I found 12V ignition at the main engine plug. Since the battery is near, running the constant 12V and the ground was relatively easy.

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Since the power harness turns on the fuel pump, I had to run a line to the positive side of the fuel pump. To get into the tunnel, I pulled the main grommet out of the tunnel and drilled a small hole in it for the wire to run through. After feeding the wire through th grommet, I fed the wire forward through the tunnel and then out into the fuel tank bay. I ran out of time to finish it up so that will be first on tomorrow's agenda.


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jerhofer
post Sep 27 2018, 05:01 PM
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First thing this morning I received a text message from my powder coater saying the steering rack shield was finished. I am $10 poorer but it looks great.


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Now it was time to see if the fuel pump cleared it. It didn't. So I removed the pump and cut the rubber insulators and washers to allow for room to raise the pump in the slot on the steering rack. This worked and all was good.


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jerhofer
post Sep 27 2018, 05:13 PM
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Now I could finish up the fuel pump wiring. I used a ground on one of the bolts for the master cylinder and ran the plus wire out of the fuel tank bay to the pump.

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At the other end of the car, I couldn't find a good way to get the wire up to the battery area and then back to the trunk. I finally decided to remove all of the fabric tape I had applied to the wiring harness and rout the wire up through the harness and then over to the right side of the engine bay. I used a wire to pull the wire up through the harness boot. After soldering the wire from the front of the car to the wire from the power harness and running it over to the negative lead for the battery, I re-applied the fabric tape to the wiring harness boot.

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jerhofer
post Oct 2 2018, 02:55 PM
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After being busy with other things the past few days, I got back to working on the car today. After installing the new wheels, the wheel studs for the rear were the right size but the front ones were too short. I did some measuring and ordered ten 56mm studs for the front wheels.

This afternoon I began wiring the harness for the fuel injectors. I have done quite a bit of wiring in my past but this is the first time I have worked with weatherpack connectors. So there is a learning curve. The fuel injector plug uses a GT-150 female terminal. The seal is built into the plug so it does not use a seal on the wire. Richard Clewett says he uses the weatherpack crimper with all of the connectors in his kit. After some trial and error, I figured out how that crimper worked with these terminals. But not until I had already used up the extra three terminals, and then some, that Richard had sent. I have more on the way.

There are pull through terminals which means the wire has to be run through the plug, the terminal crimped and then then the wire is pulled back to lock the terminal in place. With the terminals in place, i can re-insert the seal into the plug. At Automobile Atlanta, I found these fuel injector boots. They may not be necessary but add an OEM touch to the wiring.

The TEC GT-200 ECU is capable of running a number of different types of fuel injection. Richard's kit is set up for sequential fuel injection which explains the need for the cam sensor. There are six output channels from the ECU. Channel one goes to the first cylinder in the firing order, which on a 911 engine is cylinder one. Channel two goes to the next cylinder that fires, cylinder six in a 911 engine. It is critical that the output channels are wired to the corresponding injector.

The output channel wire goes to the left side terminal of the injector. The right side is connected to the purple/white wire in the power harness. The injectors in wired in parallel so every injector's right side terminal will be the wired to this same wire. I couldn't find a purple/white wire locally so this solid purple wire will have to suffice.


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jerhofer
post Oct 3 2018, 02:16 PM
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After making a Sam's run this morning, I finished up the wiring on the fuel injectors, save one where I had used up all of my terminals. The additional terminals are supposed to be here tomorrow.

I then moved on to the wiring for the Coil On Plug's (COP). The terminals for these plugs used the weatherpack seal on the end of the wire. Another learning curve happened here and I progressively became faster at doing the wiring as the afternoon wore on. However, it was time consuming making the crimps and then getting the terminal to seat in the plug. I can see why Richard charges $900 for a custom wiring harness.

There are four wires to each of the plugs. One is a ground to the engine. Another is a reference ground from the ECU. Another is a 12V source while the last one is the firing signal wire for cylinders. One wire fires cylinders 1 & 4, another fires cylinders 3 & 6 while the other one fires cylinders 2 & 5.

The COP's that came with the kit had a tab that prevented the plug from being attached. A call to Richard confirmed that those tabs needed to be cut off. He said he was having trouble getting the parts and that these COP's could be used with another plug as well as the ones that came with the kit. The tabs were easily removed.


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Lucky9146
post Oct 3 2018, 03:09 PM
Post #95


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Nice detail work, keep at it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Oct 4 2018, 02:41 PM
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I finished up the COP plugs today. The terminals used on both the injector and COP plugs are called metripack. The MSD crimper die I have is for the weatherpack terminals. Richard says he uses the weatherpack crimper for all of the terminals. I struggled with that a bit as I had to do the crimp on the seal again to make it small enough to fit into the plug. That's one reason why it took me so long to do these crimps.

I was doing some studying on crimping when I came across someone saying that, for the weatherpack terminals, the OEM Delphi crimper works best. One advantage it has over the MSD crimper is that it has a guide for the terminals. You simply insert the terminal into the guide and it perfectly positions it. I ordered one and it came today. The MAP sensor is the first plug to use the weather pack terminals. The Delphi crimper made perfect crimps each time. It won't work with the other style of terminals. One advantage of the MSD crimper is that you can order different dies for different types of terminals. But they do not have one for metripack terminals. Now that I have it figured out, I can use the MSD tool with the weatherpack die to do the metripack terminals.

This is the MSD crimper with a terminal in place.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685681.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685681.2.jpg)


This is the Delphi crimper.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685681.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685682.4.jpg)

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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685682.7.jpg)

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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538685682.9.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Oct 4 2018, 02:48 PM
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With the new crimper, it did not take long to do the three wires for the MAP plug.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.1.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.4.jpg)

I also spent some time pulling each wire that i have used so far out of the harness, cutting it to a length that will go from the ECU to the bulkhead plug that I will be using and labeling them. I then inserted each plug in place and tidied bunched up the wires in preparation for the final running of the wires.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.5.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.6.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1538686128.7.jpg)
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jerhofer
post Oct 8 2018, 02:44 PM
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Usually my project cars move along a bit faster than this one. Other things that have to be done keep popping up. Such is life.

More wiring was completed today. The crank trigger cable is shielded and contains a red, black and bare wire. These are very small wires so I doubled up the stripped wire to have more wire to crimp to.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031456.1.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031456.2.jpg)


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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.4.jpg)


The cam sensor wiring was next.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.5.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.6.jpg)


Next up was the head temp sensor.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.7.jpg)

And then came the air temp sensor.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.8.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i188.photobucket.com-22140-1539031457.9.jpg)





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mb911
post Oct 8 2018, 03:03 PM
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Looks very nice.. Did you find an inexpensive place to buy the battery from? They have gotten really expensive.
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jerhofer
post Oct 8 2018, 04:22 PM
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Thanks. There was no cheap place to get the battery!
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