914 Diesel build.... Options

[14carrot]

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) keep going Patrick!!!
I can't wait to see the reaction to your car in the show corral and running parade laps at Mosport!! I'm going to set up camp Friday night, hopefully on the wooded hill overlooking the famous turn 2. Keep in touch, I hope you can pull it off and have it ready (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[PatrickB]

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) keep going Patrick!!!
I can't wait to see the reaction to your car in the show corral and running parade laps at Mosport!! I'm going to set up camp Friday night, hopefully on the wooded hill overlooking the famous turn 2. Keep in touch, I hope you can pull it off and have it ready (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Changed the stock Honda rad for an aftermarket aluminum rad yesterday that should be enough to deal with my minor heat issues. Looks like there's an extra layer of core and aluminum moves heat better than brass. Ordered spacers from maddog so I can get the back end aligned again...
Would like to find a set of bilsteins with a little heavier spring and maybe adjustable perches while I'm at it but they look like they're really hard on my pocketbook... Don't want koni yellows, too many autocrossers here having failure issues with them.
Might be too late to order them stateside and have them in time anyway

[PatrickB]

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!

[PatrickB]

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!

Parts are in, fast shipping!
Anyone have a recommendation on which groove to use to put it together? Rigs are in the bottom groove out of the box. I don't think the back of the car is much heavier than stock. Kit came with 150 lb springs...

[914forme]

Can't answer the question, I run these with coil over sleeves. I noticed the track outline for the ring. Is this like a rubicon Jeep, and now your car will be Nordschleife certified.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[PatrickB]

Can't answer the question, I run these with coil over sleeves. I noticed the track outline for the ring. Is this like a rubicon Jeep, and now your car will be Nordschleife certified.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Trial and error... Springs are stiff. I'll start with the bottom groove and
see what happens.

[Bill D]

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks

[PatrickB]

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks

No issues with the mount. Cooling is borderline... still prototyping ducting around the rad. Because the engine compartment is now open at the bottom I'm pretty sure the airflow is now bottom up. Had to run with the engine lid open to get to Mosport and back. Now running with the lid closed after fencing off the rad to make sure air coming out of the hot side of the rad can't circulate back to the cold side and that air from under the car can't blow past the front of the rad and has to go through. Going t build it better this winter and open up the lid like a GT hood.

[PatrickB]

Greetings Patrick. Any updates on how the new radiator is working? How are the mounts working with the diesel vibration especially at idle?

thanks

No issues with the mount. Cooling is borderline... still prototyping ducting around the rad. Because the engine compartment is now open at the bottom I'm pretty sure the airflow is now bottom up. Had to run with the engine lid open to get to Mosport and back. Now running with the lid closed after fencing off the rad to make sure air coming out of the hot side of the rad can't circulate back to the cold side and that air from under the car can't blow past the front of the rad and has to go through. Going t build it better this winter and open up the lid like a GT hood.

There is vibration at idle... I think mostly because the trans mounts are pretty much solid smooths right out past a out 1800 rpm.

[Bill D]

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

[PatrickB]

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

Been considering doing exactly that. And/or a heater core where it belongs too. Be nice to have some defogging ability on cold mornings! Don't know how good the airflow would be at the back of mine with the ford probe bumper

[DRPHIL914]

Spacers are here from maddog.....
Bit the bullet and ordered a set of coilovers and new bilstiens (auto Atlanta) I hope 140 lb springs isn't overkill!

Parts are in, fast shipping!
Anyone have a recommendation on which groove to use to put it together? Rigs are in the bottom groove out of the box. I don't think the back of the car is much heavier than stock. Kit came with 150 lb springs...

I have those Bilisteins too, but not the coil overs, but have thought about getting them. on the question about where to set your retaining ring, at least with a stock spring and set up I have found that the top #1 slot is too bouncy, and that in my case #2 or #3 will be best, I am at the #3 from top now and am going to move it up to #2. At #3 I am a bit lower in rear than front than I want to be, and this is easier than having to crank the front down and re do alignment up there. will see how that feels in the seat .

How much did the coil over springs with out the shocks cost?

[TravisNeff]

I would do the clip on the bottom ring, that is what I did with my Koni's and the threaded perches.

[PatrickB]

I am using 911 mounts across the bar and have little room for the trans mount to move. Don't know if it would help but I added a second radiator across the back where the muffler used to be. It is plumbed to the heater core outlets on the engine.

Been considering doing exactly that. And/or a heater core where it belings too. Be nice to have some defogging ability on cold mornings! Don't know how good the airflow would be at the back of mine with the ford probe bumper

What did you use for an extra rad at the back? I think I need to do the same.

[PatrickB]

I would do the clip on the bottom ring, that is what I did with my Koni's and the threaded perches.

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!

[tomeric914]

Click on the "How-to" thread on coil overs in my signature. Parts are cheap and you have almost unlimited flexibility in spring selection.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!

[PatrickB]

Click on the "How-to" thread on coil overs in my signature. Parts are cheap and you have almost unlimited flexibility in spring selection.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Wound up with everything set as high as I could get it to get ride height. Ordering a set of 12" springs to put things where they should be. Not available from Eibach in that diameter. Only place I could find them in 2.25 id over 8 " long were some companies in England. Gambled on one called "Rallynuts". We'll see what happens, just placed the order today. Seems there may or may not be deflection issues with springs in that diameter over 8 " long according to Eibach. We'll see how I make out. I'll post some pictures when I ge tth enew springs on the shocks. Don't expect delivery to be fast when I'm dealing with transatlantic distance!

thanks, but what I have ordered eliminates the need for the helper spring, I'll post pictures when I get the parts in and put together.

[PatrickB]

New springs in. (Rainy day here)
Before w/150 lb 8" Eibach



Notice that the sleeve extends above the top of the shock with the 8" spring. Not good practice as far as I'm concerned. On my car at least I wound say a 10" spring is the minimum. Not available anywhere I could find on this continent in that ID. Bought them online from England form Rallyuts.com. 160 lb 12" available just about any length and 10 lb increments.

After

[Andyrew]

160 with a sway bar is a good combo for a street car. Love the build!

[PatrickB]

160 with a sway bar is a good combo for a street car. Love the build!

Thanks, I like it too! Still a work in progress. Engine is old and high mileage. I think it's coming out this week to put the smaller turbo back on and seal a few things up, minor oil leaks. Timing belt isn't due mileage wise but is getting old. Water pump may or may not need replacing (heating issues getting worse over time). They are known to have issues with the impeller coming loose on the pump and since the timing belt will be off anyway...(you get the picture) may choose to put a muffler on while I'm at it. Waiting for a set of RE71's to show up....

Good thing I'm on self isolation! gives me some time! And our autocross season looks like it's delayed too