914 Diesel build.... Options

[PatrickB]

This was with 150 lb springs and the back swaybar off..... hooked it back up for now to try again.

[PatrickB]

Pulling apart to change timing belt, MAYBE a smaller turbo, PROBABLY add a muffler.
Biggest issue ging to a smaller turbo is hooking an air filter to it... need an elbow that matches a K14.

Picture a little cloudy... dirty lens on the camera phone?

[Porschef]

Sweet Probe! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Would love to see a video, with sound (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[PatrickB]

Sweet Probe! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Would love to see a video, with sound (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

From a few pages back, initial start. My Kid wouldn't video for me at autocross, sorry!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BwvBVNTJbQ...eature=youtu.be

[PatrickB]

Back out for a water pump, timing belt, and MAYBE a smaller turbo, haven't made up my mind yet.

[PatrickB]

New water pump in, but they sent me the wrong timing belt kit. We're on hold for a day or two!


Old water pump looked fine once I had it out, but the new one was already here so.... what the heck!

[Andyrew]

Boy that sure looks like the same water pump thats in the 1.8.



Have you thought about a heat blanket? You can get big kevlar ones on ebay for ~$30. It'll help a little bit with turbo spool, and just general under hood temps.

[barefoot]

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD
[/quote

18" wheels with 60 series tires will hit the rear A-arm. I just mounted 17 X 7" with 235/55 R17's (27.2" tire OD) and can just get a finger in both radially and at the inside wall of the tire. Interestingly my speedo checks right on against my GPS even though these tire OD's are larger than the OEM 165 X 15's.

[PatrickB]

Boy that sure looks like the same water pump thats in the 1.8.



Have you thought about a heat blanket? You can get big kevlar ones on ebay for ~$30. It'll help a little bit with turbo spool, and just general under hood temps.

Probably is the same waterpump. Thought about wrapping the exhaust pipe and turbo...

That's a new Bosch pump I had on the shelf. The one that was in the motor felt okay and looked fine but I'm there anyway. The timing belt has to come out and the pulley off the oil pump drive to change it, so since I was there anyway... Tension pulley felt okay too but since I'm there I'm changing the belt and the tension pulley. This is an interference engine so if the belt breaks (which has happened to me a lot of years ago on this same engine) the valves and the pistons don't play nice together. Had to replace ALL the valves last time.

[PatrickB]

The CHEAP way to make your gearing taller is bigger wheels and tires. Get some 18s with 50- or 60-series tires on them and that should drop the revs everywhere. The speedo will be off at that point, though.

--DD
[/quote

18" wheels with 60 series tires will hit the rear A-arm. I just mounted 17 X 7" with 235/55 R17's (27.2" tire OD) and can just get a finger in both radially and at the inside wall of the tire. Interestingly my speedo checks right on against my GPS even though these tire OD's are larger than the OEM 165 X 15's.

Bigger diameter is not an option with the fenders that the previous owner put on the car. 225/55/16 is the tallest tire I can install.

The day may come someday that I cut off the existing fenders front and back and go to a more standard fender, but in the meantime this is what I have to work with.

[PatrickB]

Apparently 1.9 AAZ engines were sold with 2 different timing belt setups with no obvious rhyme or reason as to which one you got. different years, different vehicles and different locations of production. The setup I have on 2 different engines is not the one they sent. I think I have the other one on a 3rd engine that's here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[PatrickB]

More issues.... autocrossed the car a few weeks ago with an upgraded T3 ( bigger compressor wheel and some machine work on the cold side housing). Got into a major blowby issue. Found a cracked head and low compression (for a 22.5 to one engine). 390 to 420 pounds across 4 cylinders. I knew the engine had huge miles on it when I put it in the car. Had a head rebuilt, honed, rings, bearings, and putting it back together. should have it fired up in time for more fun this weekend (I hope).
Current problem :
My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?

[PatrickB]

Update:
car back together with new head (cracked), and rings. Ran for about a minute had had what sounded like a rod knock. Pulled the pan and checked everything, not rod issue. Turned out to be something I've never had on one of these engines before, a stuck injector. Roy's Diesel in London for the win! Still have too much heat though. Trying to figure out what heater core BillD used in the back of his, otherwise I'll have to give up and put a rad in the front.

[Mark Henry]

My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?

They look like Vitaloni baby tornados, Post better pic's and they would say Vitaloni on the base, I have a pair used.

[PatrickB]

My wife was walking past the car in the garage and bumped into ? broke the mirror on the driver's door. NOT a stock mirror. Some kind of a universal mirror, and I can't find anything similar anywhere locally.
Anyone within an hour's drive (London/Windsor/Sarnia) got a pair of mirrors up for grabs? OR within 2 or 3 hours?

They look like Vitaloni baby tornados, Post better pic's and they would say Vitaloni on the base, I have a pair used.

No Vitaloni on the base..... found some aftermarket ones online I can live with.

[PatrickB]

Latest update.... replaced the mishimoto fan on the rad with a larger SPAL fan, can now live with the rad placement for this year. May wind up with a larger custom rad and fan in the same location eventually. Sill wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that. Mark Henry has some transmissions from me and is rebuilding one with higher gears. Maybe the higher gearing will help too. Need to pull the engine back out at some point to fix an oil leak and maybe low compression. Re ringed it but don't have the compression I should. Running some miles on it to see if it gets better with break in. Put a muffler on it too, it wasn't terrible without but I like it better with. Can hear the radio now!

[Grego in Sac]

Very cool and have started thinking about doing a diesel swap, if you could do it again, what would you change?
Being in the states, California, I need to start looking for motors and then adapters. Would like to put a boxster 6 speed in it to keep the rpms down but that’s money that could go other places.
Do you have any pictures of the radiator setup and placement?
Thanks for being one of the few to forge ahead and break trail!

[Chris914n6]

Still wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that.

That's an airflow problem. The fact that it remains in temp range below 75 says the rad is right size. Fans only move more air below 25-30 mph, after that the cfm is strictly in the ducting. Outlet needs to be 20% larger than inlet to accommodate heat expansion.
There are also little details, like hoses under the car is good for ~5F cooling, and having airflow around the engine.

[PatrickB]

Still wants to warm up cruising past 75. Will cruise all day without getting warm below that.

That's an airflow problem. The fact that it remains in temp range below 75 says the rad is right size. Fans only move more air below 25-30 mph, after that the cfm is strictly in the ducting. Outlet needs to be 20% larger than inlet to accommodate heat expansion.
There are also little details, like hoses under the car is good for ~5F cooling, and having airflow around the engine.

You're right about airflow, the rad is in the engine compartment. Wanted to try it that way to keep the frunk usable. I may eventually cut a vent in the fender like a Boxster but haven't gotten up the nerve to do it yet.

[PatrickB]

Ran a couple tanks of fuel through it, pulled it out to check compression again. Was 320 to 360 lbs when I put it together. Spec is a minimum of 377. Local machine shop that did the head for me told me to put John Deere break in oil in it and run it. Didn't know break in oil still existed! Somewhere between 1000 and 1500 miles later and the readings are 420 to 460! Not what I had in the past but enough!

Also pulled it to find a big oil leak (probably 3 quarts in that 1500 miles all over the garage floor and outside), no luck yet. Heated up a couple times on the stand and still no leak. I'll keep looking.